The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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I fucked up drying. Room RH is 80% plus but I had fans running.. usually, locally, I cant get my dries to go longer than 3 - 5 days.. been drying for 5 days but with the humidity being at 80% - 85% inside the lung room and tent she hasnt even began to dry. Plus, I havent been able to trim her up yet.. just been jiggling the jar around a few times a day and keeping the jar open, inside the tent with an exhaust fan running and another usb fan moving air.. but not blowing on the buds at all.. but around the jar.. so nervous to get mold!!! Drying still.. but day 3 in jar.. She is still way too wet to be jarred. I have just been shaking the jar around like 4 times a day MINIMUM and keep the jar in he tent with air flow.. humidity is still being a butthead.. but easing up a bit.. down to 70%-ish.. when I do seal the jars, it still reads a little over 70%.. I will keep doing this until I get to about 65% or possibly even as high as 68%.. as long as I keep up the burping.. but so far, I just leave the lid open and keep it in the tent with a couple fans running.. no mold, so she should be good.. still gonna keep flipping the buds a few times a day.. this is going to be some DANK! already tried a few nugs.. still alot of chlorophyll, but she is slowly getting to the cure zone!!! Drying day 14.. Finally got the jar down to 65% RH.. that took alot of rolling the jar (to move buds around).. at least 4 - 5 times daily for this entire time I trimmed the buds and put them into the jar waaaay too early.. no mold tho.. and the buds dont tear apart anymore. They should start to crumble (kinda) in the next 2 - 4 weeks.. but going to see how things (including weather) are going to go if I only burp once or twice daily. I kinda want to bring the RH down a bit still.. like 62% 🤔 ah shit, I'm so indecisive lol.. probably leave it at 65% for a couple days and then try to get it down to 63% or 62%.. but once I see 59 or 58%.. it should still be good, but I get worried because I have overdried MANY harvests.. just trying to get things dialed in with drying and curing still.. even 4 years into this stuff! Lol.. but I'm getting a better hang of it.. kinda using my own methods mixed with what I find online.. just hard to judge when the plant is ready by snapping stems.. ive waited till the smallest stem I could find was making the "snap" noise.. but when I did that, the RH in the jars was only at 55% and lower.. the taste and smell were completely gone halfway thru the cure.. ive read that anywhere from 55% to as high as 70% RH is good.. but even at 70% I still have wetness issues.. buds and stems tearing.. still tastes like pure chlorophyll.. but since I've been kinda getting my dries dialed in, so I try to UNDER DRY to get buds to about 70% (that's in jars, not room). I really feel like this doesnt get explained enough in forums and online.. they tend to leave out some very important details.. like what to do when you overdry or underdry your flower.. if its too low, its trash. A 62% boveda and/or integra boost humidity packs can only do so much.. they have helped me, but only if the jars are still above 55% RH.. anything lower has completely removed terps within 2 weeks or so.. but yeah. In 4 years of trial and error (and yeah, forums and other grow diaires), I have found that it is better to UNDERDRY and either burp the jars MULTIPLE times a day (at least 4 - 5) or take them back out and let them dry for another 8 - 12.. maybe 16 or even 24 hours.. depending out how wet the flower still is and the drying area. Anyways.. im stoned and just finger fucking my keyboard here.. but this is very useful info that I have found works for me.. if people dont agree, hey thats cool too.. then these are just notes for myself later 😋 OK, I'm done now.. will keep updating as I go! About 5 days into curing... Got the jar down to 62% - 63% RH so I can stop burping so much.. maybe a short burp twice daily for a week then slow it down to once a day and eventually just stop burping. Been keeping my hand out of the cookie jar for the last... 2 maybe 3 days. I'm going to try and only test a nug once a week to get a feel for how quick its curing and how much better the taste is from the previous week. Did this last grow and each week was a huge difference.. even at week 6! But she was more than ready at week 4!.. not sure how some can cure in 2 weeks unless you get it really dry.. which makes me nervous cuz at 55% RH, I've had horrible results. Trashed the whole remaining harvest.. this is why I like to try and keep the RH a little on the higher side (68% or 65% or so and slowly bring it down to 62% or 63%.. also called the "pre-cure" phase) but I want this harvest to hover around 62% for as long as possible because 62% seems to be the magical sweet spot when you leave them there for the entire 4 weeks.. just my experiences.. Buds aren't very dense, but I'm pretty sure thats due to harvesting a week or 2 too early 😢.. and leaving her in te dark for another 5 days or so before harvesting.. oh the horror she endured toward the end of her life.. she was a fighter tho.. no mold.. in ANY of these super high RH weeks she went thru during the most vulnerable parts! Harvsting, drying and pre-curing.. but not 1 speck of mold 😁 About 10 days into curing.. Yeah I wish I could have let her go another week or 2.. yield was defintely hurt.. quality could be better.. but it will do for now.. live and learn.. I seem to say that every grow 🤣 but still a nice, decent stoney, still pretty decent tasting smoke.. going to just do some small, short burps for the next week or 2. Want the RH to still come down a little.. but if not, meh. The RH (outside and indoors) has been high again.. but luckily I was able to get the RH in the jar down to 62% - 63% RH.. i just burp the jar for a few seconds.. remove the hygrometers and flip the buds.. then put the hygrometers back in, clos up the jar and let it sit till the next day. RH is so high in the room that it raises the RH in the jar a little. But they always go back down to 62% - 63% RH.. good deal. Waiting for a dry day to burp outside for a few minutes. Need to invest in a powerful dehumidifer.. ugh.. Somewhere between 3 and 4 weeks of curing... Yeah definately shows that I harvested early. Still an ok smoke. Could have been fatter.. could have been tastier.. definitely NOT Ethos fault. Kicking myself for not letting her go 1 - 2 more weeks. Wasnt by choice tho.. life happened and she had to be chopped. Just ready for a little warmth and I will begin the next run!!!
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@Lukewarm
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send nutes plz. turned out that im a big noob. shouldve put more nutes in my 50/50 coco soil mix. now i have to wait few more days till its dry. all in all plants look kinda fine day 24 - switching from MH250w to HPS250w day 27 new growth shows white tips
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@JKent19
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Pretty good week overall! Day 80, I am posting a little early to coincide with my expected harvest in 2 weeks, and because today I officially started the flush! At this point I am anticipating the harvest between 5 and 14 days from now, depending on how quickly the buds finish ripening up. I am guessing the taller plant has about 75% red hairs and over 50% cloudy trichomes at this point. The shorter plant is slightly behind with maybe 40% of her hairs being red and maybe a third of the trichomes are cloudy. They have made a lot of progress over the past week, so🤞 they will continue that trend. Did a pretty decent defoliation on the shorter plant, due to some fan leaves that were blocking light from the lower canopy turning yellow. I have decided to try molasses with my flush water, hopefully that will improve my final product. One final note is the smell.... it is considerably stronger this time than either of my first 2 grows. Typically I do not bother with a carbon filter, but the smell was so strong it leaked in from my garage and permeated my entire house! So I added filter (and a very strong candle) and it seems to have helped the problem. Super excited for the harvest, will definitely keep everyone posted!
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@Napo89
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Colori bellissimi, profumo intenso ed avvolgente. Questa varietà è davvero insuperabile! ❤️ Ci siamo quasi finalmente...
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They looking good, but temp is a little too high. It is what it is One of the plants (In front to the left) is more frosty, with less amber pistils. But overall the trichomes are starting to go from crystal to cloudy. Which is my timing for start flush. 24/7 -Temp 23-26day/21-24night -47%RH (2+-) 25/7 Water day* start of flush Gave them till run through with plain ph balanced water, and topped it off with some light nutrients-mixed water. -Temp 23-26day/21-24night -49%RH (2+-) 26/7 -Temp 23-27day/21-24night -47%RH (2+-) 27/7 -Temp 23-26day/21-24night -47%RH (2+-) 28/7* Water day / flush -Temp 23-27day/22-24night -47%RH (2+-) 29/7 -Temp 24-27day/22-24night -47%RH (2+-)
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Ya visteis , cultivo fácil, de principio a fin, pocos errores una pérdida tan solo de 4 ejemplares y por dejadez. Pero enserio si todo se hace correctamente vais a flipar lo rápido que van y después lo buenas que están. Humedad en el secado por debajo de 45% y temperatura media de 23 grados. Hasta aquí es todo fumetillas, que paséis un final de año de lujo entre buenos humos.
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Gracias al equipo de Kannabia Seed y XpertNutrients, sin ellos esta magia no seria posible. 🍁💐 Runtz (Auto): Si esta cepa se ha ganado su popularidad a pulso, esta versión autofloreciente es digna heredera de sus atributos. No es de extrañar que nuestros criadores hayan acertado con su programa de reproducción, al combinar dos de las cepas más fascinantes de la actualidad: Zkittlez y Gelato. planta resistente y robusta, de cuerpo esbelto y fuerte ramificación lateral, que se puede cultivar prácticamente en cualquier entorno; pero prefiere los veranos largos y cálidos, tal y como quiere la madre naturaleza, donde bañada por el sol se eleva hasta los 120 cm. para producir unos rendimientos muy gratificantes de 100-150 gramos por planta. En interior, y tras solo 70 días desde la semilla, también recompensará con cosechas abundantes de hasta 500 gr./m² Inmediatamente después de encontrarte con ella, lo primero que notarás es su aroma descaradamente afrutado, con un toque tropical cortado con reminiscencias terrosas y amaderadas, que se entremezclan de forma agradable para ofrecer un combo que hace salivar las papilas gustativas. Ofrece un sabor confitado, refrescante y similar a sumergirse en una piscina de frutas cítricas y flores de fragancia intensa. Al inhalar, obtienes la bondad de la dulzura; al exhalar, el humo se convierte en suave y cremoso, dejando suficiente profundidad en cada bocanada para satisfacer a aquellos que buscan los matices más complejos. ⛽ XpertNutrients: es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos 🍶y sustratos🐛, que garantizan los mejores resultados y cosechas de la más alta calidad. A través de una cuidadosa selección de materias primas y un proceso de producción avanzado, sus productos son sinónimo de resultados confiables. 🛒 Consigue aqui tus fertilizantes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/sobre-nosotros/#:~:text=Xpert%20Nutrients%20es%20una%20empresa,de%20la%20m%C3%A1s%20alta%20calidad. 📆 Semana 14: Esta semana ha explotado 💣, los cogollos comienzan a tomar densidad, me hubiera gustado aplicar algo mas de nutrientes en la fase vegetativa, la próxima vez será. A partir de ahora agua hasta el final.
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My homework. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration.Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems.
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📆 Semana 7: La Candy Bubatz XL avanza con fuerza en floración. Los cogollos se densifican y brillan con una capa creciente de tricomas, mientras el aroma dulce se vuelve más penetrante. La estructura sigue firme y la planta responde bien al plan de riego y nutrición, sin mostrar carencias ni estrés. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪
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@PapaNugs
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Girls got their first foliar spray! I've never done this before but got the equipment and bioinsecticide and moved forward. Really gotta prevent those damn mites and aphids. Not messing around anymore. This girl is getting flipped to flower now and I'll train as she grows to maximize the tent space. I don't want her growing out of the tent on this one. Dimmed to 40% Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/
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@inversi0n
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Hello growers! Tonns of defoliation and branch management this week. I added 2nd pack of stretching wires I actually don't know how to manage THAT amount of branches Shall we count this stage as a flower or veg. Well, it's transitioning At the beginning of the week PPM was 1040, by the end it's 1700+ It's hard to maintain correct level, when we add water, not changing it, i wanted to add more bloom nutrients. And she dinks well now.
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At a total of 79 days this Sangria is a beautiful one! A cross between The GOGO and Ogreberry she is super delightful, Dense resiny heavy covers trichome buds , with the smell of Gassy rotten fruit funk on the nose! She a stanky one ! Other then that she was a pretty easy grow , y’all don’t sleep on it an better get your hands on it , at @Twenty20Mendocino they got you covered
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Ciao! Questo è il mio primo EP su Growdiaries sono davvero entusiasta! Oggi 8 febbraio ho messo a germinare le tre piccole di casa Barney's. i semi sono posizionati all'interno di un vassoio da germinazione sto usando un tubo riscaldante e una centralina InkBird per la temperatura così riesco a mantenere la temperatura sui 22/23°C con un RH %80 Sto usando il metodo del fazzoletto umido, spero che in 24/48 ore la radichetta spunterà dai semi! Oggi 09/2/2023 tutti e i tre semi hanno germinato! Successo del 100% Mi colpisce il vigore della Tropicanna Banana! Invece la gelato mi da l'aria che sarà una bella signorina capricciosa! Come si sul dire ogni riccio un capriccio🤣 Ora i semi sono stati inseriti nel soil per la precisione Ligthmix della BIOBIZZ con un aggiunta di micorizze per la precisione Mycos di Xtreme Gardin! Ho nebulizzato con acqua decantata e ph6.3. 11/02/2023 Ed eccoci con il nuovo aggiornamento del Ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccole sono tutte e tre spuntate neo tempi previsti sono davvero felice per la loro vigorosità! La Tropicanna è la Gelato presentano un piccolo problemino nel staccare l'embrione del seme dai cotilodoni, per darle una piccola mano ho nebulizzato a distanza un pò d'acqua. Ho evitato di provare a toglierlo con una pinzetta per paura di danneggiare le piccole plantule, sono sicuro che riusciranno da sole a risolvere questo piccolo fastidio. Ho deciso di accendere la lampada impostandola all'incirca al 20% (60W) a una distanza di 50cm circa. Non ho un misuratore di PPFD per mia sfortuna sarei stato più preciso nel impostare la potenza e la distanza della lampada😓 ho impostato il classico ciclo di luce 18/6. Ho aggiunto un ventilatore oscillante della Secret jardin per smuovere un pò l'aria. Ora con tanta pazienza e amore aspetteremo la loro crescita! Sono davvero curioso di vedere quanto tempi ci metteranno ad entrare nello stadio di Vegetativa! 12/02/23 Ciao a tutti growers eccoci qui con un nuovo aggiornamento sul cultivo TheBarney's!! Le tre piccole si sono allungate un pochino, ho deciso di fare un piccolo refill con terreno e dare una piccola nebulizzata. Oltre a questo le ho tolte dal box di germinazione e aggiunto un umidificatore collegato a una inkbird per mantenere costante un Rh tra il 70% 80%, pian piano abbassero l'umidità fino a stabilizzarla sui 65% 70% di RH. Per il resto nulla di nuovo... Ci sentiamo prossimamente per nuovi aggiornamenti sulle piccoline rimanete connessi e lasciate mi piace🙏💚 17/02/2023 Ecco un nuovo aggiornamento sul ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccoline pian piano crescono, oggi concludono la prima settimana come plantule! Si sono un pochino allungate e per sostenerle o fatto un piccolo refill di soil e ho irrigato con 15ml a testa di acqua con ph6.3 e Herba power (Ammendante) 0.5ml per Litro d'acqua. Per questo aggiornamento è tutto ci sentiamo prossimamente! 20/02/2023 Eccoci con EP nuovo sul ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccole oggi hanno subito un travaso le ho messe in airpot da 3L e irrigato con acqua ph 6.3, ammendante (herba Power) e un estratto di alghe (Herba Sweed) EC 0.45 Esattamente oggi sono 10 giorni che si trovano nello stadio di Plantula, le prime foglie a 3 punte stanno sbucando speriamo presto di vedere quelle a 5/7 punte e finalmente si inizierà con la fase vegetativa! Tutto sommato le vedo in salute hanno un bel colore, il vigore della Tropicanna e della Gelato mi sta sbalordendo! Per ora è tutto! Al prossimo aggiornamento 💚
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25/09-01/10 I black them out on 23-24 September. Then changed the light cycle to 12/12 on 25 September. So 25/09 is the first day flowering!
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6 plants looking healthy starting to smell like dank already i was feeding them evry other day for 2 weeks and now I'm just going to give it RO water every other day for 2 weeks