Hello Diary, White Widow has finished the third week of flowering, and as you can see in the photos, it looks great. I would say that she has stopped growing in height, only 4 cm this week. Final 67 cm which is almost ideal considering the height of my grow box. White Widow has formed its final shape and will now direct all its energy into the development of flowers, at least I hope so :). The main cola dominates above the other branches and is completely covered with flowers on which trichomes are already visible. All three plants have started to smell more intensely, when I open the grow box I immediately feel the smell that overwhelms me. The leaves are a healthy green color, there are no signs that she is missing anything. It is obvious that the new nutrients Bio Grow and Bio Bloom Fertilizer are doing their job. Watering has become more frequent, the plants have become thirstier compared to the previous week. I continued to add CalMg and Bio Bloom Fertilizer with each watering. All in all, I am very pleased with how White Widow is progressing, I try to provide her with the best possible conditions and she returns the favor in her own way. Here is what the past week looked like. 29/08/2024 - Day 36. Watering. I prepared 9 liters of water, added CalMg and Bio Bloom Fertilizer and lowered the p.H. to 6.0. With that amount of water, I watered all three plants on the "Farm". 01/09/2024 - Day 39. Watering. I repeated the same procedure as three days earlier. 03/09/2024 - Day 41. Watering. Same procedure. 04/09/2024 - Day 42. End of the 6th week, or the third week of flowering. Photographing and measuring the height of the plants. White Widow - Day 42. - 67 cm. That's all from me for this week, see you soon and thank you all for your comments.

Finally starting to bud, looking good so far with no deficiencies. Think I might need to start feeding more, cos these ladies are slurping up the water quickly Lets gooo

Hello. This is the end of week 5 and the beginning of week 6 of flowering. It's like walking into the mango store and smelling all the ripe mangos, Wonderful. Things are going good in here. I getting some lower yellowing leaves, now that the plants are putting everything into flowering. I'll mix in a bit more nitrogen in tomorrows changing of the nutrient solution to slow the yellowing down some. Each pot gets 2 gallons of rainwater when they are dry enough. One more strange thing happened this week, my unknown 40 year old daughter made contact with me last week. I guess she's had some awful relationships with men and doesn't like them. It came across. There's been stress here this week, but not with cannabis. 😒 I need the cannabis to de-stress. Wow. Never saw that coming. OK. Be great. Chuck.

Day 12F-19F (May 3rd - May 10th) (Day 13) Pots are still super heavy and I don’t see these things drying out anytime soon so we’ll see over the next few days. Still no signs of overwatering. (Day 14) I’m going to do a little lst. Better late than never and since the pots are saturated the stems are bendier. I noticed they were quite droopy during lights off but are praying by lights on. (Day 16) Man these things are filling out slow. I’m going to drop the light a few inches and see if that helps at all. Definitely no early trichs. (Day 19) So I haven’t had to water at all in the last 10 days and the pots are still quite heavy. Oddly enough, I still see no signs of overwatering. Perlite did it’s job I guess.

My homework. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration.Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems.

Smell of the plant is amazing. Smells like red Berries. Buds got huge and medium dense. I only harvested the 3 main buds as they are developed the most. The rest of the plant can stay for one more week. I Also removed some dead leaves.

Fed GH 3 part with Terpinator in flower and some recharge occasionally.

Just waiting for the change in development to put these girls in darkness!

Not much do do this week. Training is mostly done. Don't really have anything to trim as was doing it as I went along. Just need to keep an eye on her. She's starting to flower but it looks like dimming the light affected the stretch. Day 37 - some mild defoliation Day 39 - looks like she's done with her stretch but hopefully she'll grow a bit more.

Hello my friends 👨‍🌾👩‍🌾, This start week I've topped the plants, saved 3 nodes/plants, Removed some leaves Started my training, I've given 400 ml/plants 2 times. Start week and middle week. 1x water + tera vega + boost 1x water + cannazym PH@6 This end week I've topped the plants again, continue my training to prepare my scrog. I'll probably make a big def and lollipop 🍭 the next week and transplant them in 11l pots for the blooming, Starting 12 12 till 2 weeks I think. I've several damages on the leaves, principaly on the #2, after removed several leaves, looking less damaged, but I don't found the 🐛🐛 to kill them... Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Also to @marshydrococo2 , @News_SweetSeeds for sponsoring 💕💕. Mars Hydro TS 1000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ts-1000-led-grow-light Gorilla Girl F1 fast version https://sweetseeds.es/en/photoperiod-dependent-seeds/3065-gorilla-girl-f1-fast-version.html See you next week my friends Have a good week end 😁💕

April, 5th I think San Fernando Valley stopped Streching she can concentrate no in developing the Buds😆 It is getting quite full in the Tent, the Plants growing with alot of Plantmaterial Iam watering Dailly with beneficals, and feeding every other Day, until now with the Vegetation Fertilisers, but from tomorrow on they get Bloom fertilisers The silica Todressing worked wonderful, i could strenghthen the connective Tissue Iam quite happy with this Gentics, they were vigor Growers Hoping for delicious Buds😜

These are just about done, I chopped the first grape god in the 1 gallon bag yesterday. I started the flush way too early because the 1 gal needed it and I didnt feel like mixing separate feeds so I just hit them all. So the leaves are crispy and crinkly but the nugs will be clean and smooth so it's all good just wont get the best pics out of it. I love these little autos they are frosty as hell and have some beautiful buds. The rest will come down this week doing the final flush today.

She is budding nicely now, looking like 16 colas once they have fully developed. Now starting to a get sweet smell. Very nice purple colours are now appearing. I cant wait to try this strain.

Me he quedado un clon para seguir trabajándola y poblándola, ya que como comente antes tiene un terpeno único y una producción buena de flores bonitas con mucho sabor.

This week has went by well she is starting to fill in and smelling amazing small nugs but dense with some nice frost appearing she is starting to uptake water a litter more frequently can’t wait to see her over the next few days

Day 70-77 (Day 71) Not exactly sure why but node spacing on bbb 6&7 is super tight still. Their stems are also harder and less bendy, almost like they’re root bound. Bbb #5 in my veg tent is looking bizarre and I’m at a loss for what to do. I’ve been looking up and asking around about the leaf crinkle and no one seems to know what’s wrong. Trashing a pheno of this would hurt. It could be a keeper too as I don’t think the problem is genetic. It’s definitely root bound but that doesn’t cause contorted new growth like that. I’ve concluded that it’s my dense soil coupled with root bound issues, overwatering and high RH. (Day 72) Later tonight I’m going to give bbb 5 a bath tub flush until it’s reading 200ppms, drain it well and then transplant into a 3g pot with lightly amended soil. I’m also going to give it a light defoliation. I don’t mind stressing the shit out of this plant right now because I won’t be flipping for another week at least. With the small container it will run out of amended nutes mid flower so I will hit it with a few synthetic feedings around then to test out the smokabilty and taste compared to organic nutrients. I might as well give the rest a good defoliation on the rest of the plants too. I will try to get most of what is under the trellis. (Day 73) I definitely defoliated #7 waaay too much. Since it’s tucked away in the corner and a really bushy plant I can’t train it as well as the others. I cut most of the sucker branches and the majority of the lower fans. This should prevent the need to defoliate at all until week 3 of flower. (Day 74) I’ve been reading that higher temperatures with a high RH can affect growth big time. It could be what’s causing all the crinkling and twisting. And now that the plants are in very late veg they could probably benefit from a lower RH. When I was running my temps around 74-78F and 70% RH I was in the perfect range. Now that I’m around 82-86F with the same 70% RH that could be what’s causing it. Hotter air holds more moisture than cooler air and proper vpd at 84F is around 75-80%. I’m going to turn up the speed on my carbon filter and set my controller to 75%. If I don’t see a difference or it gets worse I will drop to 65 and go from there. (Day 76) I finally got the lights raised up another 4 inches or so. It’s not much but it should help reduce the intensity and stretch the nodes more. I’m starting to think the super tight node spacing and droopy/contorted growth has more to do with something I’ve been reading about called ‘soil compaction’. Apparently farmers often deal with compacted soil in fields from running tractors over it all day. When I potted the plants I gave them a good little jiggle to compact the soil down further so I could fit a bit more in the container. I think this could be the culprit as they don’t seem to be drying out evenly. Even the plants in my other room are not drying out like they should and it’s probably from compacting too. With the addition of rock dust and dry amendments the soil can become sandy/clay like and retain a lot more moisture. Wish I would have added a few more liters of perlite and packed the soil a bit looser. Either way I need to get this problem sorted ASAP before I get root rot. Earlier in the season when I overwatered, I stuck a fish tank air pump into the soil and it aerated the soil enough to prevent overwatering. The only reason I discontinued it is because it didn’t have much effect in the 1.7g pots. I just ordered a 36w 6 way fish tank pump that is way more powerful. It was 50 bucks and I’m willing to take a gamble on it. It seems to be my only option at the moment because I can’t just repot. Worst case scenario I can use it for brewing compost teas if it doesn’t work. I’m not sure how well this will work in a giant fabric pot but it’s worth a shot. I’ve heard of people supplementing additional air into raised garden beds with great results. I’m picking off some of the new auxiliary branches to try and widen the node spacing. Growth is definitely slow and stunted but no signs of deficiencies. I just thought of another theory on the node spacing... and the more I think about it, the more I think it’s the mystery problem. I’ve been foliar spraying with 1-1-1 VeloKelp at pretty high concentrations 2-3 times per week. I have heard in passing that kelp and seaweed can somehow reduce stretch. A quick google search reveals that Ascophyllum Nodosum Seaweed and other marine algae extracts contain large amounts of hormones and auxins that reduce plant height and stretch. *facepalm* Guess I’ll stop that for the rest of the cycle. As far as I know there is nothing I can really do but wait for the plant to use up all those excess hormones and nutes. The recent 0-0-15 seaweed extract and 1-0-3 kelp meal I bought is derived from the same kind as the velokelp. I guess I won’t use it again until week 3 or 4 in flower. Tight nodes are very useful in flower but aren’t desirable at all in when trying to scrog in veg. Especially when they’re like a half inch apart. It slows the shit out of a grow. Vietnamese and biker gangs in my area used to grow SOG style and use a synthetic PGR hormone (meant for bonsai trees) called ‘paclobutrazol’ that would make the weed rock hard dense so they wouldn’t have to pay people as much to trim it. I’ve heard that in recent years they have made the switch to using kelp extracts because paclo is getting harder find and is not meant for food crops let alone smokeable crops. I’m ashamed of it but I have smoked pounds of PGR weed long before I knew what a PGR was. 🤷‍♂️ (Day 77) One more theory. Ever since raising up the plants up onto that shelf the root zone is probably significantly warmer and the bottom of the pot (where most of the roots are) drys out way quicker. It’s possible that the warmer root zone could not be holding dissolved oxygen at the proper rate resulting in that over/underwatered look. Or it could be that I’m not watering enough at once to reach the bottom of the pot where the roots are and it’s indeed under watered. I’m going to water in a gallon when I get my new air pump and see if that makes any positive change. If I see the new air pump making a difference, I will flip on the 21st of April. If I don’t see a difference, I will carefully untangle the plants from the scrog net and remove the shelf. That extra foot should make a massive difference with ppfd and will cool down the roots significantly too. I’m thinking about grabbing a simple soil/compost thermometer to check the temp of the medium. Better safe than sorry. Rough week. Hopefully everything get smoothed out in the next little while before I flip.

Ultima settimana di vegetativa, due mesi totali