I soaked the seeds in distilled water for 18hours they were put into paper towels and baggies this morning as soon as tap root appears I will start photographing and posting diary of entire grow will be using 2 thirty gallons no till entirely build a soil both pots are on 3rd cycles both have red wiggler worms I am excited about these two strains and the 30 gallon po

Absolutely Love these genetics one of my favorite grows so far cannot wait till harvest. The smells are immaculate.🌿💨💯

Check out the videos guys, she is flowering real good even tho we are not using any special nute like big bud for example, but i really want to try it soon, hopefully! Still she is doing great and im happy to have her! How are you doing growers whats up!? Dont forget to leave a comment Any suggestion is welcome! We are happy to learn new things alwas, Thanks for the support happy growing everybody Enjoy the footage thanks to Siriuz

2024 September 8: She is thick

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Set up a second trellis net to help support the fatter tops that have gone far beyond the first trellis. Added a second 6 inch clip fan to help with air flow. One side of the tent had higher humidity but now with more air flow its solved the issue.

Switched to 12/12 on the 10th of september Rock on Growmies 🌱

Seid gegrüßt Growmies, Ich habe nur am anfang die ausgespülte Erde mit dem Dünger Gemisch feucht gemacht da ich sie wieder verwende wollte ich zur vorbeugend wegen meinem sehr weichen Wasser etwas calmag in die Erde. Die extreme Hitze und starkes LED Licht vertragen beide sehr gut nur B definitiv besser. Deswegen habe ich erstmal nur einen Samen pro Fas Version verwendet. Weil ich nicht gezielt Rücksicht nehmen wollte auf die strains und sehen wie sie bei extremen Situationen sich bewähren. *Update* leider etwas zu trocken geworden deswegen sind die blattspitzen leicht welk geworden. B hat noch genug Zeit sich zu erholen und anzupassen.

FOLLOW THE GROW———>https://youtu.be/SjZ-eizIP7o Growth has been steady and lush considering the fact that there has been a 2 week heat wave. For the plants in the bucket the 2 smaller ones are phenos of my previous Fanta Sea RBX grow, and the bigger one is a Sherb clone from my previous grow as well

Let’s go Day 36 !!! This week went real great, girls built up a lot of structure, and stayed super healthy ! Today they got fed just water phd at 6.5 ! They been really loving that balance! I also removed a lot of under trim since we are going into preflower , so had to shave up those legs lol ! It’s really great for them , the love that airflow , but don’t take off too much or you could shock your plants so be careful ! Can’t wait to see what these girls do this week ! Hope you all enjoy an are ready for another amazing productive week ! Peace , Love , an positive vibes to y’all Cheers LetsGrowwww!!! 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨

2/5/25 shes a bush thats for sure. excited to see what she does. i top dressed with 10 ml grow 5ml bloom and 5 ml 2/8/25 shes starting to stack up

I've been pulling the top fan leaves to stop the main stem growing any taller and repotted them into 4L pots, once they show roots I'll flip them over to flower. They've all outgrown their mutations but the apple fritter has a slight varigation.

June 21st update. 28 days since flip. Plant is growing phenomenal. Was able to crank the lights up to 80% for the first time in this grow without her throwing a fit. All of the banana peels I’ve fed her the last few weeks have disappeared and have been feeding my soil mites and my worms. I have not had any bad pests since I started using these predator mites I love it. I can’t even begin to describe the smell of this thing. It’s like a raspberry tart mixed with just a little hint of gas. I’m so excited to give this a try when the time comes Noticing Trichomes going all the way down some of the fan leaves so that is always cool to see. Also I noticed this is common with living soil but I’m done bothering trying to defoliate. I will do one more in two weeks at day 42. But anything I remove at this point is just going to come right back. As always nothing but water. Will give her some tea tmmr like every Sunday with some big 6, worm castings, molasses, and some cow cal 24.

June 3: growing fast now. Still almost 3 weeks until the solstice so we’re in good shape timing wise. June 5: “we got ‘er goin’ now.” Nice fast growth happening. June 6: now past fifth node and will top first thing tomorrow morning. June 7: topped for manifolding (or mainlining), and watered with a simple compost tea (mature compost, water, molasses, vinegar for pH) left to steep overnight. Apologies for the audio quality on the video.

Well here we are, finally reaping the rewards of a successful grow. I think the nugs are denser than the mother plant had, but the yield was lower than expected considering the mom was 4oz. This strain can handle a lot of stress but it seems she burns pretty easy in flower from nutes.

NOTES: Keeping the pH between 5,8-6,0 and EC at around 1,4-1,6 depending on system. EC at 1,5 seems to be optimal and my measurements are staying pretty steady at that level. Humidity is lowered to around 50% if I can. The tops are now at around 45-60cm height from the soil. Continuing the last heavier defoliation/pruning process that I started yesterday at the end of 2nd flowering week. I saw no signs of mold or any other issues as I went through the plants. After this week I'm going to change the nutrient solutions on the tanks and fill them with fresh nutrients with minor changes: Dropping the amount of Grow from 1,5ml to 0,5ml and increasing the amount of Bloom from 1,5ml to 2,5ml. After the change I'm only going to refill the tanks without adding any Grow and will instead increase the amount of Bloom to 3ml. Propably a one more change of fresh nutrients until flushing with Final Solution prior harvesting. Day64 (19.12.) Some more defoliation focusing on the upper growth revealing bud sites below them and keeping off the moisture. Already got a trash bag almost full of leaves since they've been pretty bushy plants on average. Day65 (20.12.) Continuing the last defoliation process. Day66 (21.12.) Continuing the last defoliation process, pretty satisfied with the results so far. Light penetration and airflow have increased greatly so I don't have to worry that much about humidity or possible mold any longer. Each strain has started flowering, all plants are females and buds have started to develop. Defoliating didn't seem to stress the plants as much as I thought it would. Day67 (22.12.) Day68 (23.12.) Refilled and added some nutrients with a stronger Bloom/Grow -ratio (~4:1) and left my girls to enjoy the Christmas Holidays as I did. I'll be gone for around three days, after that I'll change to new fresh nutrients as I mentioned before. One Ayahuasca Purple seems to be ahead of others, and a few other ones have clearly started to develop some buds too, rest of the plants are following closely behind. Each strain has some truly astonishing individuals, and I think Ayahuasca's have shown most variety between different plants. Overall everything looks pretty good I think. Hopefully can say the same after a couple of days as I come back. Happy holidays everyone! Day69 (24.12.) Day70 (25.12.) I added another Led light to my tent just before the lights turned off. Everything looks amazing!

Potted in to 20L and put under a 400w mh, they look a little tired as it was right before lights out. All going well and seem quite a vigorous strain

This strain was easy to grow, short and very bushy. The smell when drying has an incredibly strong earthy/chocolate aroma which is very pleasant🤤.