Drunken Bitch slap is coming along good. She is just about done bulking under the Hortibloom Solux 350. I will likely switch her to ph water soon for a flush, and fade. Nice sticky frosty colas she has as well. There is not much else to report. Thank you Aeque Genetics, and Hortibloom. 🤜🏻🤛🏻💪🏻❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

week 4 from seed. we're up to 600 PAR, 1250 EC, same 5.7-6.2 range for PH. going in once/twice a day and continuing to LST the quadline branches and do some light defoliation. everything looks pretty healthy. one plant did have a small split in the main stem from pulling the branches down too hard, we'll see if she recovers. got into some IPM with crop defender 3 - just a blend of botanical oils (and i use yucca for emulsifier) really on the fence about flipping to flower this week, but my girlfriend who knows nothing about growing said I should wait one more week so that's what I'm going to do.

Привет садоводы Цветок потихоньку растет на днях я сделал еще одну одну обрезку ,разделив ее рост с 2 веток на четыре и пересадил в горшок побольше сегодня я сделал еще одну последнюю обрезку, разделив 4 ветки на 8

[DAY 50] - 20/07/2022 - TS1000 45 cm away - 100% (150 watt); - 30° C, 50% RH; - PH 6; EC 1.4 - 1.5; - A few days ago I switched to the full flower feed, but I am experiencing plant nutrition problems: 1) On 8 liters of solution, from EC 0 to EC 1 I inserted: Silicate + CalMag + A + B; 2) From EC 1 to EC 1.4 only with the addition of Bloombastic (Bloom stimulator did not raise the EC) (I don't know exactly the amount of BLOOMBASTIC, it is too viscous to be able to measure it precisely, that's why I only report the increase in EC, it is more precise as a info). After less than 24 hours the EC turns out to be 1.5 (it was 1.4 a day ago), the plant is therefore eating badly or in any case in an unbalanced way. The only difference from before is the addition of Bloombastic. I have the feeling that: raise from 1 to 1.4 of EC with only Bloombastic (so only P and K) is too much and the plant is leaving some of these nutrients in the DWC as it doesn't need them. I am therefore afraid of approaching an excess of P and K and for this reason I have also uploaded photos of the leaves, maybe someone more experienced will already be able to notice signs of excesses of these two nutrients. If, on the other hand, Bloombastic is not to blame for this EC elevation, I don't really know what it is. - I found ONE SINGLE LEAF completely ruined, it was practically dead and detached from the plant (leaf was under the scrog net, so didn't take light anyway). [DAY 51] - 21/07/2022 - TS1000 40 cm away - 80% (120 watt); - 30° C, 60% RH; - Today and tomorrow I will not be home and I preferred to keep the lamp at 120 watts in order to better manage humidity and temperature. [DAY 52] - 22/07/2022 - TS1000 40 cm away - 80% (120 watt); - 30° C, 60% RH; - Plant is drinking about 1.5 liters per day, the solution temperature is always very high but the plant is holding up well. [DAY 53] - 23/07/2022 - TS1000 40 cm away - 100% (150 watt); - 30/31° C all day long, 60% RH; [DAY 54] - 24/07/2022 - TS1000 40 cm away - 100% (150 watt); - 30/31° C all day long, 60% RH; [DAY 55] - 25/07/2022 - TS1000 40 cm away - 100% (150 watt); - 30/31° C all day long, 70% RH; - The humidity has increased these days, we are on average 70% with peaks of 80%. I hope that the weather situation will improve; - Plant is continuing to grow day by day, so I think I am still in the last days of the stretching phase. Concluded this phase (when?) I will remove a lot (or a bit?) of leaves and branches that are not getting enough light. [DAY 56] - 26/07/2022 - TS1000 40 cm away from the center of the canopy - 100% (150 watt); - 30/31° C all day long, 70% RH;

This new week since the soil is a soil improver specifically formulated for lawns, its task is to keep the pH around 8 and stabilize, there is peat that also acts as a buffer, I did a flush giving 2 liters of water since the vase is 3.2L at pH 5 to balance it with the runoff pH which is pH 8, since the pH is 8 the plant is unable to take nutrients as it should and therefore problems with curled leaves begin, which discolor, lose vigor (I wanted to do this experiment also for those who are new to it)

Sie haben noch einen kleinen Schnitt bekommen. Unteren Triebe wurden entfernt und die Haupttriebe sortiert. Jetzt haben sie noch Tage und dann geht's auch schon in die Blüte.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyos. I am hopeful she will recover and reconnect the xylem and phloem channels. Oopsy level stress event. A couple of days later, the stem was tied in place to hold it, and I spent some time gently caressing the stem, bending it over time as it becomes more pliable the more you bend it. A little delay, but the core framework is now in place. If your soil has too high a pH, which is not ideal, you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. You are going to find a lot of people who will huff and puff and blow the house down and say, "Well, everyone's pH is high." That may be, but it doesn't mean it's right. But if you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC, The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur, also important for plant growth and potentially serving as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can) soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore, can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates; while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.

The temperatures, humidity, height, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Coop Poop, Molasses, Feather Meal, and Soluble Kelp are ml/gallon of soil top dressed. Everything else listed in nutrients is ml/gallon of water fed to plants without checking the solution Ph. Day 1 we had a high temperature of 76°F. Skies were overcast and cloudy. I watered about 4 gallons. Day 2 we had a high temperature of 80°F. Skies were sunny, but everything was still humid. I watered about 4 gallons. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 84°F. Skies were sunny, but humidity was running high. I watered 4-5 gallons. Day 4 we had a high temperature of 73°. Skies were clear and sunny. The humidity only reached a high in the mid 50% and a low of 30%. There truly is a God who knows this garden needs some dry air for harvest. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 71°. Skies were super sunny and humidity is averaging around 40%. I watered about 5 gallons. We are having excellent weather to finish. Day 7 we had a high temperature of 82°. There was abundant sunshine. Super clear skies and humidity dipped into low 30%'s. I watered about 5 gallons. Not so much because of them feeding heavy but the arid conditions and sunshine. I've treated these with very thorough washing of the pm. This week was a success. We've gotten so busy, it's all we can do to keep the garden going, while harvesting, drying, and processing. I've had to wash all the fastbuds repeatedly this week to get the pm off of them. We had a brutal mid and late flower. Extremely high humidity, ridiculous amounts of rain and cool nights, thunderstorms blowing in and just overall brutal weather for cannabis. It's a blessing to have late flower perfect weather. We should harvest next week.

Beim Training ist mir der Stamm unten eingerissen.. denke aber der Kabelbinder macht das schon :D sollte nicht weiter schlimm sein.

Not giving them Any nutrients now until chop which should be in a few days. Seeing lots of amber on the Royal Gorilla, not so much on the Green Gelato, but still present in small amounts. 2 days until 10 weeks total flowering. Letting the plants fall and rest on the side of the tent isnt ideal, but its the only way i could have saved them from the heat. Check out my stardawg diary for what heat can really do to a plant....gonna upload another week soon and there is HUGE damage to the plant that didnt auto. These smell lovely anyway, cant wait to try them!

This beast is an absolute pig on water. 35 liters every 4 ish days. Crazy growth my strategy is consistency this time so I'm sticking with 600 ppm. I dip with a tds meter everyday just to check to make sure she's eating. Roots clogged the 1'1/2" tube made and overflowed the bucket. Made a fucking mess. Wouldn't have it any other way.

Defoliated this week. Ladies are filling back in nicely. Tons of bud sites. Very happy with this batch so far! Nutrients every watering this week. These girls will now get one watering of just ph water, then the next watering will be the last watering with nitrogen. After that, we kick the bloom phase into overdrive. They will get micro, bloom, and advanced big bud. Every watering, for the rest of their lives. Grow-5ml Micro- 5ml Bloom- 5ml Recharge once a week.. Very much looking forward to these ladies! I have 4 of the auto cheese by seedsman running and they are all identical phenos! Looking great!

First of all, a big thank you to @BeanswithPork. He gifted this cultivar to my dad, who has a special place in his heart for Blackjack the game. Secondly, I am blessed to have such great results for my first grow ever. This plant was grown under the guide of my dad @Budxs and I learned a bunch from hi m this year. I have just smoked the first taste of this after a weks cure and I can rank it up there with some of the best weed I have ever smoked in my life. The taste is just perfect, citrusy and a bit fruity. The high is immediate and seems to be uplifting and makes me giggle. I live this stuff and I will grow more!!! Thank you to all for following, it has been a blast.

Transfer to 3-gallon pot

First week not to exciting, but girls are growing up nicely. Day 7 to 14 have seen significant growth and I am expecting some rapid growth in the next few weeks. Haven't done any feedings yet but will start Fox Farm big bloom sround day 21. Now the fun really begins...

Awesome growth! Topped above the second node, then Mainlined to have 6 main nodes total through lollipopping. She was trained using LST, until week2 flower.

Nov 29: They seem to be accelerating in veg growth but I see a small portion of the leaf on the smaller plant either grew in mutated or somthing cut it, I haven’t seen a single bug in the box so I don’t think it’s that but you never know, and the bigger plant has some issues near the base of its stem, I noticed it before I did the LST and now I’m wondering if I should have addressed that issue before starting the LST. Let me know what you guys think! Dec 2: Walked into the room and noticed a faint smell, wasn’t any smell last night when I started the LST on the slower girl. Further inspection showed some white pistols on the bigger girl, I believe she is the culprit for the smell as the other seems about a week behind. They are both now LST‘d and leaf tucked. Enjoy the pics and vid’s! Dec 6: I have tied down some of the longer chutes on the bigger plant (will see in week 5 update) to create more airflow and light penetration as I didn’t even realize how bushy the stem and node sections had gotten. I have also cut the chutes coming off the first true leaf. I don’t think I will make any cuts to the smaller one as it’s already a slower growing pheno. Going on a trip starting the end of week secede to late week 8, so I have a automatic feeder coming from Amazon, and I will continue using it through flower to reduce open tent time.