Allen Pflanzen geht's super, das Wachstum im puren Cocos Faser ist der Hammer es ist viel schneller und besser als in Erde. Werde in 10 Tagen anfangen mein Pflanzen in Form zu bringen Lst und multi topping in Kombination.

Nothing but colas on all 3 this is going to be a big harvest. Another 2 or 3 weeks max.

Vegetative Week 6 – Pineapple Upside Down (Round 2) This week confirms a full recovery in vegetative growth. The plant clearly regained vigor and momentum. Growth is strong, foliage is dense, and overall structure looks healthy. Internodal spacing is noticeably tight, resulting in a very compact and bushy plant. This could be influenced by the full-spectrum lighting, which appears to promote dense vegetative development. Although topping or defoliation was considered, no structural work was done this week. The priority is to let the plant continue growing naturally and fully stabilize before any training or shaping. Nutrition remains unchanged from the previous week. The nutrient solution is maintained around EC 1.4–1.5, with pH close to 6.0. The plant is responding well, showing no signs of deficiency or stress. While some time was lost earlier in the cycle due to initial issues, the delay is clearly less significant than in the previous run. Progress has improved, and this recovery phase highlights areas to refine in future germination and early-stage management. This week ends on a positive note. The plant looks healthy again, and the focus moving forward is simply to let her grow and maintain consistency. See you next week. Take care. -Update: 04/02/26- •Structural work update: Today, a full structural intervention was carried out on the plant. Defoliation, topping, and pruning were all done in one session. The plant had become too bushy and overly dense, with poor airflow and excessive humidity trapped inside the canopy. To correct this, the structure was reset: four lateral branches were selected and kept, while the main apexes were topped to start defining the future shape of the plant. At this stage, the goal was not refinement but foundation. This intervention marks the beginning of the plant’s final structure, or at least the first clear step toward it. A significant amount of foliage was removed, leaving the plant with much less leaf mass than before. The work is now finished, and no further cutting is planned for the moment. From here, the plant will simply be left to recover from the stress of this heavy intervention. The focus now shifts to recovery, stability, and healthy regrowth.

I have had a very nice journey growing her, she has given a great quality and quantity pf buds, very hard dense flowrs with a clasic strong amnesia smell that I enjoy a lot specially for the happy energetic buzz that provides you.

Day 50: Water intake is 150ml per plant, light schedule 18/6. Humidity is approx 50%. Fertilization continues the same way Monday, Wednesday, Friday Biobizz family, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday bat guano and Epsom salt. Flowers are developing nicely and getting thicker. Plants love the new 600W Viperspectra:) All good so far! They are all approx 30-35 cm. Day 53: Smell is getting stronger, really nice mix one. Day 55: Nice smell comes out from this tent. Plants are nice buds are getting dense and the smell is getting stronger and stronger. All of them do well, some more some with less bud development but they all look happy.

Plants are doing well I've started slowly introducing bloom nutes on all but the dynamite which are both 2 weeks behind the mop and og kush. They have been asking for water everyday now so I just been watering in am if its gonna be sunny all day I water. #1 orange punch is way further than all the others the buds are getting big on there. Been spraying with bt and neem oil once a week. Taking some yellowing leaves off once in a while. The smell is strong now my whole back yard smells like weed lol.

They’re fattening up a lot now, they all drink really slow but they’re still packing on and look happy. It feels like I’m gonna kill them because I’m only watering about once a week. Humidity is getting to be a problem. Getting a dehumidifier soon, if you have any recs lmk I’m still kinda lost. Too many options and I’m not sure any of them even work. I’m getting the first few whiffs here and there, smell’s starting and everything looks frosty. The oils smell like fresh fruit and cream, some have a cookie-ish rub to em. Every day I get more excited to see what they do in the end!

Late update, ran into some issues with the roots but the end product is still decent. Will make some tweaks next time, the problem was my transplant. I didn’t put the plants down deep enough and the soil was compacted to add. Plants start tipping over and nearly derooted when buds got heavier. Also was using too much nutes, will be switching to coco. Don’t think I used too much, soil just retained a lot of the nutes and water. Hoping coco will solve that issue for me.

Start of week 5, looking pretty good.

The girls started to pre-flower on the 6th of June. They all have a slight smell when you rub the leaves. Kosher cake, Strawberry banana and the Forbidden runtz have a sweet smell to them. The Forbidden runtz reminds me of the smell of skywalker OG which is totally LUSH..!! The blackberry has more of an deep earthy smell with a slight bit of fruitiness. Super excited for the next few weeks with these ladies. Happy toking my peeps 😁

Hola con esta semana ya quedamos al dia con el seguimiento ya que estaba atrasado en el tiempo. Se nota una producción de resina notable en esta genética que nos ha gustado mucho por su olor y estructura de las plantas . hemos creado un video por cada una de las 14 plantas del seguimiento, hay varias muy llamativas que están "pre-seleccionadas" para mantener a futuro, el olor que se llega a sentir es muy florar y dulce, si tienen alguna pregunta no duden en preguntar saludos. Hello with this week we are already up to date with the follow-up since I was late in time. There is a remarkable resin production in this genetics that we liked a lot for its smell and structure of plants. We have created a video for each of the 14 floors of the follow-up, there are several very striking that are "pre-selected" to keep in the future, the smell you get to feel is very flowery and sweet, if you have any questions do not hesitate to Ask greetings.

Buds fattening up

• Sugar Puss, Exotic Genetix • Cheetahs piss x Bakers dozen (unreleased) • 60 - 70 day flowering time • Unknown Info nothing online Nutrients • GreenBuzzNutrients (DISCOUNT CODE • GD42025 ) %25 I use the whole product range and this stuff is a game changer. I've not had one bad grow with this company and it hasn't let me down once. Terps and taste are through the roof. No need for run off in coco only during flush week. Hands down the best nutrients on the market. GREENBUZZ OUR NOW OFFEEING OUR FELLOW GROWERS A WHOOPING %25 OFF WHEN USING MY CODE ABOVE. BE AWARE IT HAS CHANGED 🌱💚 ENJOY LIGHT/TENT • Mars Hydro FC-E6500 5x5 tent Speechless ❄️ not going to be a huge yielder but this is either on par or better than the Biscotti Mintz. Frost machine and has the most amazing smell

Welcome to Flower Week 2-3 of Divine Seeds Auto Black Opium I'm excited to share my grow journey with you all as part of the Divine Seeds Autoflowering Competition 2025. It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this competition, I’ve chosen the Feminized Automatic strain: Auto Black Opium Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Divine Seeds • 💧 Humidity Range: 50 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 60-63 Days • Strain Info: 25%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 0.5l • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 200W x 2 A huge thank you to Divine Seeds for allowing me to be a part of this amazing competition and Sponsoring the Strains. Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!

week four flower everything looks fine so far :D I water them with 1.5l every 48h the light I use was set to 100% and it hangs 80cm away from the tops

la bimba cresce bene,manca poco alla sua fioritura. lei non è dopata ma stimolata nelle sue fasi con concimazioni biologiche mirate. L'obbiettivo è fare fiori duri, compatti e brillanti, non gonfi dal chimico. Non ha mai sofferto carenze, pianta con 16 rami tutti principali e tanta massa fogliare. Non teme il sole a 40 gradi del mediterraneo, anzi gli piace. Buona giornata amici coltivatori,alla prossima settimana

Happy 4/20 all... Still on auto pilot. I've made very few changes this week. Process/Environment changes: -turned one of my ts1000s down after chopping my cheese auto.. it wasn't needed as much and it helped cool down my tent around 2 degrees Celsius. - humidity is set between 45- 55 percent. (45 lights off, 55 lights on) - rotating each plant in the tent so they they can get even light coverage I'm going to do a trichome check on Saturday. They are both pretty much close to being finished at 62 days post germination. Both have heavy trichome production Both smell very sweet

Ok had to start flowering this week because of overall height now I see I should have got a taller tent but oh well. Started 12 on 10th I believe also moved some wires around and got a few more inches out of the light so I'm at 19 and 20 inches from lamp can't get no more unless I move exhaust fan light is now 75% started feeding terpinator its supposed to increase taste we will see later on also gave first dose cal mag I think I was borderline calcium deficiency plants really looked good after cal mag also feed unsulfered blackstrap molasses half dose tiger bloom and full dose open sesame cutting down on my nitrogen a little. To bad I can't smell shit right now been sick past few days probably got covid for real. The one branch on my one plant has an extra thick stem on it and at top extra leaves coming out guess its a mutant from to much nitrogen unless someone else know what it is overall it's been an ok week can't wait for the next few just hope I don't get to tall

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia