Flowering day 37 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey guys :-) The buds have developed incredibly nicely this week. The smell is getting more and more extreme :-) . The whole plant itself looks perfect 👍. The growth has slowly stopped as the full energy goes into the production of the buds. This week it was watered 3 times with 1.2 l each (nutrients see table above) They were individually inspected and checked for their health. Osmosis water for the coming week was refilled in a 100 l tank 👍. Have fun reading the diary and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Clearwater Seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany

Transplanted my nursery tent from 4L cup to 1 gallon plastic pot , main lining , topping , made Micro tea every week with fish fertilizer 1 tsp Neptune , bloom city seaweed , worm tea concrete, soil recharge 1,2 1 liter of tea per pot to make sure the soil is condensed into soil

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Today July 2nd will mark Day 36 in flower. Took the defoliating real well. Now looking forward to see what it do with Open Seasme from FoxFarm. Didn’t use the Lotus. But other water feeding . I just use pure water but PH now 6.5 . No longer in Veg. Time to boom boom bloom . Let go growmies!!! :)

Been growing these in greenhouse while I didn't have space under the mars hydro was taking full advantage of the sun happy and healthy and cutting my veg time in half

at last we are in harvest week. im happy at all it was a good experience. my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are dense and frosty but very little in size! i had some mistakes and problems with this grow so i admit i wasted them . lesson from this grow : grow autos far from fems and always give them 20 hours or more light per day to get good weight in little time.

Pre98 Bubba , oh how I’ve missed you for so many years! These ones came out absolutely gorgeous! Loving the the purple phenos 😍 ! These ladies liked to stretch quite a bit so you’re gonna want to use some LST on em but I also recommend topping at least 6 times to get a better bang on your yield ! Expect nice tight purple buds with a tremendous amount of frost covering, some of the frostiest Bubba I’ve ever had! Over all I give it 10 stars an would definitely over an over run this strain!

Gracias al equipo de Fast Buds, Marshydro y XpertNutrients sin ellos esto no seria posible. 💐🍁🍋🍊 Lemon Mandarin: Esta variedad es para los amantes de todo lo grande. La Lemon Mandarin es el resultado de nuestro trabajo de cruce de dos deliciosas cepas cítricas: nuestra matriz Lemonade cut y la Tangie (selección de Crockett's Family Farms). Nos aseguramos de que se combinaran los mejores atributos de sus padres, como un efecto eufórico y vigorizante, una producción de tricomas demencial y un perfil de terpenos cítricos agridulces. La Lemon Mandarin es ideal para los amantes de los árboles enormes y los rendimientos XXL: puede alcanzar alturas de hasta 200 cm, mostrando una resistencia extrema y muchas ramas laterales. Su aroma es una mezcla perfecta de la Tangie, cáscara de limón y la dulzura calmante de la mandarina madura, que envuelve los sentidos en una fragancia profundamente picante de mandarina-limón que perdura mucho tiempo después de fumarla. Se comporta perfectamente tanto en interior como en exterior, y su impresionante crecimiento y encanto aromático la hacen ideal para los cultivadores que buscan una cepa realmente excepcional con una compleja fragancia cítrica. Basándonos en nuestra experiencia, aconsejamos realizar el Scrogging o cualquier otro tipo de sujeción, ya que las ramas podrían no ser capaces de soportar el peso de los cogollos. En interior, para conseguir el máximo rendimiento por planta, no coloques más de 2-3 por metro cuadrado, ya que esta variedad se vuelve muy tupida. También podría beneficiarse de una defoliación más frecuente, ya que produce muchas hojas grandes y anchas en abanico, y podría necesitar ayuda con la aireación más adelante en la fase de floración. 🚀 Consigue aqui tus semillas: https://2fast4buds.com/es/seeds/lemon-mandarin 💡FC6500: Eficiencia líder en el mercado: la lámpara de cultivo LED FC-E6500, que ostenta un estatus líder en el mercado, es una solución rentable con un PPE de 2,8 µmol/J y un rendimiento máximo de 2,5 g/vatio. Ofrece un PPF alto de 2026 umol/S y es adecuada para una cobertura de vegetación de 1,50 m x 1,50 m y una cobertura de flores de 1,20 m x 1,20 m. Iluminación versátil y uniforme. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-fc-e-6500-730w-commercial-led-grow-light/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1qO0BhDwARIsANfnkv9IIrYSbmJqz8PqpJOIyWwJfp5bc3SGJgUV68USLQ4tjmXDYwoBuAsaAue3EALw_wcB 🚥 MarsHydro ADLITE UV/IR/RED: Para lograr un crecimiento óptimo de las plantas y maximizar los rendimientos es un arte simple que depende en gran medida de las condiciones ambientales adecuadas. Reconociendo las limitaciones de la iluminación natural y las soluciones de iluminación tradicionales para satisfacer estas necesidades únicas, lanzamos ADLITE. Estas luces especiales UV, IR y roja están diseñadas para llenar áreas del espectro, proporcionando las altas longitudes de onda que las plantas necesitan para un crecimiento y desarrollo óptimos. 🚀 Consigue aqui tu Adlite: https://marshydro.eu/collections/adlite-supplemental-lights/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 📆 Semana 12: Última semana aplicando nutrientes, creo que todavía pueden engordar un poco mas, finalmente estoy contento con los resultados

😎 The plant continues to give birth to new leaves and the trichomes grow in number and size 😏 With the window open there is no smell in the house, if I leave the windows closed a few hours you can smell the typical smell of marijuana only in the room where there is the plant.. 👋 I water the plant once every 3 days with 1 liter of water with the fertilizers described above.

Simple enought setup to check this strain, 60x60 tent, 75w cheap led panel, coco coir and scrog mess. For nutrients i will use GHE/TA for coco for first time. Ill be using 6L aeropot Also i will record a timelapse for this

Tied her down this week, was a little too aggressive in doing so & partially snapped 2 branches off. Might try using fishing line & sinkers for lst rather than tying & retying every week with twine.

About 3 days until harvest . Looking fat and frosty . The tri-combs are mostly a milky color with a few amber .

One of them ain’t as strong as the others hopefully she’l be okay

Can't tell if she's trying to flower or not still seems to be responding well to lst had started to drink and feed a lot more so I'll keep LSTing to speed her if she shows more signs or real signs of flower I'll stop. But going really well had needed nothing seems very strong and healthy growing very quickly no stunting... Super Sativa Seed Club Auto Purple OG Punch yuM!

Good week. On day 50 I Defoliated. Removed lowers, Taped up the room for light blockage Day 56 from Complete reservoir change Room temp/humidity- 67/70 Plant temp/humidity-70/65 CO2 level-922 CO-47 Water ph- 5.9 Water ppm- 1200 Water temp- 73

Smells like Rubber bands coated in a berry sugar or berry sryup very interesting on the nose! Harvested day 67 ish maybe a couple more hard ot tell outdoor Split the harvest into drying buds and some to made into fresh frozen hash. i can dry weigh the fresh frozen buds and put that weight in the wet section and i will put the to smoke buds in the dry weight section so total between the two will be the whole plant Drying was a big mishap got condensation around day 10 of drying and it caused some mold 🤦‍♂️ right around the time i was going to cure! Found a peroxide soak that ill post butt it seemed to take off all the mold without affecting tricomb heads! Had to re dry for another week afterward i feel like the re dry maybe messed with the terps because it definitely never got the smell back like i thought but who knows slmost 3 weeks into cure coukd get better but doubt it

3/25/2023 Week 6- Day 1 of Veg (Day 52 overall) Added my first between changes SILICA Top offs. Was worried that when you add it to pre mixed Nutes that it can make the whole thing turn into a gummy looking substance. I was ready to drain the system and start it over for the week if needed, but no issues adding it to the tank. the Silica going into the Res didn't gummy the system up, it did drop my PH by quit a bit causing me to have to bring it back in balance. 36 Gallons in the Tank Silica Add .5mil/Gal = 18Mil I topped some that needed to be topped, I defoliated some that needs to be defoliated. Since I have moved into Week 6 I have increased the light intensity up to just over 500 maxing it out for Veg Cycle. Next increase will be Week 1 of Flower. 3/26/2023 Week 6- Day 2 of Veg (Day 53 overall) All conditions looked great. Other than me not putting one of the humidifiers back right which means it didn't work last night so Humidity was lower than I like. But got the Humidifier back on it's stand correctly and it is now pumping away. With that I decided to give the plants a day off from any stresses, no topping, no FIMing, no Defoliation for today. Just some good old soaking up the light rays and the ability to get all the Nutes they would like.. 3/27/2023 Week 6- Day 3 of Veg (Day 54 overall) Looking kind of Bushy today, so I defoliated some, and topped some. 3/28/2023 Week 6- Day 4 of Veg (Day 55 overall) PH was a little lower than I like 5.74 so I added a few Mil of PH UP and brought it back up to 5.94. Not much else at this stage, just I topped a little and I defoliated a little. 3/29/2023 Week 6- Day 5 of Veg (Day 56 overall) Topped a little, Defoliated a little Watched them grow!! 3/30/2023 Week 6- Day 6 of Veg (Day 57 Overall) Main action today was breaking down my old tent and setting up a new tent and getting my second RDWC system setup and ready for clones. I Topped a little, I Defoliated some and started taking a good look at what I would like to take for clones in the coming days. I have a few bottom branches that look every promising for my clone material on each. 3/31/2023 Week 6- Day 7 of Veg (Day 58 overall) #3 is at 16" Tall #2 is at 13" Tall

Apollo is coming along nicely and enjoying new friends, zkittles, gorilla cookies and granddaddy purple. All autos. Godzilla cookies is the runt. Apollos schedule : Water & feed Tues, Thurs, and Sunday. Increased TPS to early bloom at 9ml/g and Signal to 3ml/g. I think she could use more fertilizer but I'm gun shy on feeding too much. I noticed the new leafs are thinner than veg leaves indicating early flower. No pics on 10/12. My special day. 10/13 pics and video outside before first defoliation. And after defoliation. Note to reduce impact of stress, I ground up 1 of my B vitamins and dispersed in water after feeding on Friday 13th. Apollo is strong. Once I did definition you can really see her. 1)Very thick strong stem. 2) Very tight node structure. There was no space between the first and 2nd leaf group. 3) Side shoots almost as thick as the mail stem 4) roots at the soil top. I used MycoBliss in the soil and planting hole. Friends, Royal Queen Seeds Is offering a discount on purchases 👉**GROWERS20** for 20% 👈 Https://www.royalqueenseeds.com Link to Apollo https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/us/56-f1-hybrid-cannabis-seeds Variety: F1 Hybrid auto Genetic Background: Lemon x Black Domina x Sugar Mangolia THC: Very high Yield: XXL Height: 55 - 75 cm Flowering time: 45 - 50 days Harvest: 75 - 80 days after sprouting Effect: Calming, Creative, Motivating , Physically Relaxing Flavor: Citrus, Herbal, Lavender, Pine, Vanilla Major terpenes: Caryophyllene, Farnesene, Myrcene, Terpinolene Climate: Short Summers ==================================== Equipment: AC Infinity CLOUDLAB 844 – Advance Grow Tent 48”x48”x80” CONTROLLER 69 PRO – Grow Tent Controller CLOUDLINE LITE 6 - Inline Fan 6" IONBOARD S44 – LED Grow Light Board 400W CLOUDRAY S6 – Oscillating Circulation Clip Fan Carbon Filter 6” Pots: 5 gallon Air pots Soil Fox Farm Happy Frog amended with worm castings, dolomite lime and mycorrhiza. Seeds provided by Royal Queen Seeds Check them out 😎 Https://www.royalqueenseeds.com Link to the seeds https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/us/56-f1-hybrid-cannabis-seeds use Discount Code 👉 **GROWERS20** for 20% discount 👈 Nutrients: Total Plant Solution >TPS1 >Canopy >Signal Amended soil recipe #2 used for soil prep. https://www.paramountseedfarms.com/super-soil-recipes/