PK overdose this week. Stop it for a week only !!!! Increase Powerzyme for this week. Top Flowers are less dry this day (Day 39) and leaves start to grow again.🤞🤞🏿🤞🏻🤞🏼🤞🏾🤞🏽 -》Began to alternate betwin water at pH 6,2 and nutes at EC 1,80 (W W N W W N) Peace to all ✌️🏻✌️🏼✌️🏿✌️🏾✌️🏽✌️

Servus Moin! Die Sun of a Peach ist nicht mehr viel gestretcht. Aber dafür bekommen viele Triebe gutes Licht ab. Ich bin bis jetzt zufrieden :)

Dear Friends, 👨‍🌾 👩‍🌾 White russian by Seeds Mafia is growing sooooo strong 27/11 transplanted into 15L smart pot ✅ VEGETATIVE week #5 📅this week goes from 12/12 to 18/12.📅 💡💡💡Viparspectra XS2000 is working at 50% power. 💉🔍Fertilization schedule:🔍💉 14/12 eposom salts 2g/l foliar and 1g/l irrigation WE ARE BACK!!! We are back after a little pause. We take a break because we were too busy to post high quality diaries. In the last diaries we tried to post as good as possible and we have to publish about 6 or 8 diaries (in addition to these that we will publish shortly). We opened also an educational Instagram page, we growed a lot in a short amount of time BUT, Instagram suspended our account and we lost all our posts, I was so sad and disappointed... a lot of work lost in a night.... Now we started a new grow with six awesome strains!!!!! In this diary you will see our journey with White Russian by our friends Seeds Mafia, sit down and enjoy the show! We are growing in a 15L Smart Pot with Light Mix soil by BioBizz White Russian Feminized was obtained by crossing the AK-47 and White Widow varieties, it has a very short flowering period of 55-65 days. It is especially recommended for outdoor cultivation, such as France and Spain, although it may also adapt to indoors and greenhouses. The harvest flavor is relatively intense during the growth and flowering period. These seeds give excellent plants, both as appearance and effect. The plant has a medium height, it is robust, thick and dense, with flowers full of resin (the crystals occur about 5 weeks after flowering). Having a 22% THC content, White Russian is one of the most popular and potent marijuana varieties. As a result, this strain has a very strong, intense, lasting and rather mind effect 💸💸💸💸💸 Here you can buy seeds of this top shelf strain: https://seedsmafia.com/en/feminized-cannabis-seeds/white-russian-feminized-.html _____________________________________________________________________ 🔧💡OUR SET UP💡🔧 ✔️ 💲💲💲VIPARSPECTRA 🚀🚀🚀🌕🌕 ViparSpectra®️ XS2000 240W Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light: Excellent ratio between wattage and ppfd, excellent light penetraton, perfect light spectrum (it also has IR 🤩) and it has the best build quality on the market. Until now, built quality is really awesome. You can touch that quality. Materials are really strong, excellent driver and the best leds on the market. Heat dissipation is perfect, the lamp is never too hot and it has a passive dissipator so you will have zero noise. It also has IP65 certification. I like that this lamp is bigger than others, so the 240w of power are well distribuited on the space. Viparspectra has an awesome customer service, and shipping was creazy fast! This awesome brand also offers 3 years warranty. This lamp has no rivals. A special thanks to Emily of Viparspectra ❤️❤️❤️❤️ HERE YOU CAN BUY THIS PROFESSIONAL LIGHT: https://www.viparspectra.com/products/xs-series-xs2000 or https://amzn.to/3dyUoJl and here you can buy other awesome stuff: https://www.viparspectra.com ✔️ 💲💲💲MARSHYDRO 🚀🚀🚀🌕🌕 📦120X120 GROW TENT: an awesome box, easy and fast to assembly. Made by strong materials, solid zips and it is totally lightproof. The position of holes is optimal and the two lateral windows will make easier the work inside the box. There is also a double end, so you are 100% sure that dirt or liquids will not spill out. You can find it here: https://www.mars-hydro.com/grow-tent/buy-mars-hydro-grow-tent-48x48x80-1680d-4-x-4-size-keeps-all-light-in-top-quality-1680d-canvas-is-tear-proof-and-double-stitched-light-blocking-fast-installation-for-sale 💡TS 600 FULL SPECTRUM 100W LED GROW LIGHT : with this light you will achieve excellent buds, you will not need anything more. This lamp replace a 150w HPS lamp, but, with this Led Light you will smoke bigger, harder and tastier buds because Led have a complete spectrum and a powerful light penetration, so your plants will work as much as possible to make you happy. Psssssss it it extremely cheap and it is only 100w, your bills will never be too high, YOU HAVE NO EXCUSES!! Here if you want this little beast: https://www.mars-hydro.com/led-grow-light/mars-ts-series-led-grow-light/mars-tsw-600-led-full-spectrum-hydroponic-led-grow-light Thank you Eleen of Marshydro❤️❤️❤️❤️ 💣Quantum board - 480w - 4x120w Boards by Zhoangshan Koray Opto-Electronic Ltd. Samsung LM301B 288 led/board 3000K 0dB noise +24led/board led Osram 660nm Efficiency 2.6 umol/J 220 lm/w Driver: Meanwell HLG-480H-36B 💣Quantum board - 240w - 2x120w Boards by Shenzen Yuanhui Led Ltd. Samsung LM301H 504 led 3500K 0dB noise +24led/board led Osram 660nm Efficiency 2.7 umol/J 220 lm/w Driver: Meanwell HLG-240H-48B -ESTRACTION FAN: Blauberg 125 Turbo Pro Series Maximum air flow: 430-560 m³ / h 50W 32-44 dBA -FANS: A)OSCILLATING FAN D.15cm 2 speeds 20w B) COMPUTER FAN Sunon DP200A – 230V 20w (Strong, reliable and quiet) C)Cornawall Electronics Multifan Turbo, three speeds, can be used both on support surfaces and mounted on the wall. High capacity, about 740 m3 / h. High silence and reliability. 💊💉💊FEEDINGS: We used BioBizz light Mix TOP CROP: -DEEPER UNDERGROUND: to stimulate roots system -TOP VEG: for a excellent growth in the vegetative phase -GREEN EXPLOSION: to promote creation of bud sites and to allow a faster growth -MICRO VITA: bacterias for equilibrate the soil and to make the plant healty -BIG ONE: to stimulate bud sites and to stimulate resin production -TOP BLOOM: to achieve excellent big and hard buds -TOP CANDY: to feed the buds with molasses for a tastier smoke and to gain weight -TOP BUD: to enlarge buds and to gain weight PLAGRON: PK 13-14 to have big and hard buds and to feed plants with lower effort ADVANCED NUTRIENTS: Sensi Cal-Mag Extra-> for cal mag deficiency GROTEK: CAL MAG for cal mag deficiency HESI: PowerZyme to clean and balance the soil. It feeds the plant cleaning the soil. GHE: - Final Part (ex Ripen) accelerate the final flowering phase, dissolves minerals in excess - Flash Clean to flush the plant and to be sure that all excesses are out from plant and pot These two products improve A LOT the smoke of our babies -PURPINATOR to stimulate flavonoids and to have a better taste and smell. ____________________________________________________________________________________________ 🙏❤️ THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE ❤️🙏 Please leave a comment with your opinions, it is very important to us to have a comparison. If you like our job, tap the weed button and follow us. It will be really appreciated.🙏 We want to thank again everyone that help us in our project. You support us to support our dream. ❤️ SPREAD THE LOVE OF THIS PLANT ALL AROUND THE WORLD 🌿Thank you again🌿 ❤️Sweet hugs❤️ 👨‍🌾CHILLING_RACOONS👩‍🌾

En plenitud de floración de la mano de Royalqueenseeds y Quemanta Nutrientes. Engordan y engordan estas flores, Se viene cosecha! solo un par de semanas mas y a piso 🌴

Day 100 - All ladies looking good at this point in the grow. Noemi's pistil hairs have mostly all curled up and turned amber in color. Also her trichomes are starting to appear amber in color. Will flush her pot with about 5 gallons of pH'd water soon. Natalia's pistils are about half curled up/amber and half white. Her buds still appear to be packing on trichomes and weight.

This is the last week before water flush and the harvest. Plants continue in their course. The week plant surprisingly will give some crop but the healthy one is very pretty. From today I started with the water to flush.

Enough with bushes would be title of this week. As 3x I went with LST and defol. The plants are now pretty strong so the lst goes well. Just have to be carefull as it could snap. The perfect method I think would be scrog however. Because they are so bushy and I dont have enough space to tie them down properly. Still cant get clear with how much nutes I need to give. 2 of ny plants just go wild with the leafs . The dots in video happened overnight. Since I cut off the lowest leafes which were half yellow brown dotted. Buds are starting to form pretty good. I suppose 🤷‍♂️🏻😄 as this is the first time I have no idea. Main worrie is that I dont get a bunch of popcorn nugs . So will see. Next week looks pretty much the same. Maybe will figure out something about the net though.

I've stopped giving them fertiliser and did a root flushing 4 days ago. They are looking good, smaller buds of what could have been with the correct equipment and dedication but I can't complain. I don't have a magnifying glass so I'm basing myself on the pistils to know when to harvest. I think I'll give them one more week but everyone is welcome to give me advice, would love to receive feedback from more experienced people.

Todo normal, en esta semana comenzamos la dosificación de engorde para las flores. También se colocó malla scrog, con la finalidad de usarla como tutor para ayudar a la planta a soportar el peso.

Day 22: Drain EC 3 feet high and risin'😅( average 3.3 to be exact...) dunno how much whatever-salt is building up in that pots, but it obviuosly doesn't bother the ladies. Dark green colour, very few 'claws', no signs of tipp-burn, new foliage appears in a juicy green and turns dark in an instant, leafs point upwards....... looks like they're happy😊. Planns for this week: - Install the scrog-net - Obsereve plants/soil ( when do i have to feed nutrients again?) otherwise there will be no changes...... Thoughts: These bushy babies will be kind of a challlenge to create this scrog the way i'm used to (basically bending the 4 main main colas to the corners of the tent, upper branches to the walls and spaces between the pants, lower branches to the very center). Now these ladies make so many branches, so close togehter and so equal in length, underneath huge fanleafs..... i'd love to have them in a 100 square meter canna-crib....but in a tent...????? I really hate doin' things without having them planned - but in this case i guess i will have to install the net, start weaving and see what's happening😯 Day 23 Let's keep it positive...... indoor-climate of 64% rh is perfect for my health💪😁!!! ......but in my tent it's killing the vpd😖. at a lousy 24 degrees C, i'm readin' about 60-64 % rh wich results in about 0.7 to 0.8 kPa.* More figures? Here come the crazyones👻!: pH 5.5; EC 4.2😨 but thats only drain from plant 3....... average was 6.1/3.6 The girls busy produce roots, shoots and leafs....... still very green, still not unhealthy.......few claws, no tipp-burn. Basically a comfortable place to be: It's not bad yet - no work but watering - and it can only get better!!!😁 *VPD issue solved: The sensor hung too close to a fanleaf - didn‘t expect this thing beeing so sensitive 😅. Day 24 Climbed new hights this morning: Plant 1 had an EC of 3.8 - the others didn't climb any higher than yesterday. So maybe we've reached the climax..... 😇 Visible growth now - so i installed the scrog-net and will start bending and weaving these days:-) Thoughts: Did beeing out of VPD-range for one day harm my plants? How exact can my sensor measure VPD? after a bit of research i found out: Whatever you buy for less than 200 bucks is far from beeing exact! Even professional sensors have a margin of about +/- 1% in relative humidity. Thermometers at least +/- 0.5 degrees C. This could give some a good guess of the actual VPD BUT: Leaf-temperature-offset is absolute key! Many of our trusted homegrow-equippment isn't even able to measure it (some offer default temp-offset) ....don't wanna go further here - but there's no way to achieve something like a precise VPD-measurement in homegrowing. So why caring for VPD? Even with those less accurate instruments, you may be able to keep your plants in something like a comfort-zone. Way better than only guessing 👆!!! In case i ran a much higher VPD than planned, yesterday (due to a missplaced sensor) , it will not harm or kill my plants. they might have had a bit of stress from dry air - but nothing to worry about! STAY TUNED 👈!

Rainy week, no need to fertilize or to water the plants. The are growing fast and very tall, despite it should be small one, the tallest ones are from seeds I found in my Baby Boom last year that could be a good explanation. I give a bit more of fertilizer and I started with the Boost + for the flowers.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

25.08.23-проведена масштабная дефолеация (примерно 40% листьев ) Продолжаю делать лст . Из проблем пш Корневой зоны 4 … вход 6.2 выход стабильно 4 пш и ниже ( Было принято решение промыть растение под проточной водой 40 литров и это не исправило ситуацию . Засола нет так как сток после промывки стал 20 ппм, после этого обильно пролил раствором слабой концентрации в 650 ппм! Незнаю как исправить ситуацию с кислым дренажом 26.08.23-горшок очень тяжелый и совсем не просох .. в этот день никаких манипуляций не проводилось Пш корневой зоны стабильно низкий 4-4.5 . Все равно растение выглядит счастливым хоть и немного отстань в росте на мой взгляд . Решил дать ей еще 2 недели вегетации затем 12/12

Day 29. No feed still. I spray them with Bio Heaven and CalMag light mix, sometimes adding a bit of Silica acid too. All not higher than 1ml/L. Think this week I will try to push best ones, smallest coming up too, but very slow, droped them to the shade and don't put any hopes into them. Day 33. Did little repositioning, space looks better now I think, plus big plants should be happier. Spray spray spray ;)))) Happy Growing !!!

Day 31 and she’s looking gorgeous and smelling danker everyday. Loving the number of tops she has going on, and her size is incredible. Definitely one I will remember. Drinking about 3 gallons per day with res changes twice a week. Was defoliated once to help with light penetration.

Cut début de moisissure mais elle etait prête et quelle odeur de dingue presser de faire le smoketest

Gelato and Northernlights are the tallest...Gelato showing signs of flowering..

New grow , New seeds just been put in water for 24hr then they will be put in paper towel for another 24hr before being planted straight into coco with some mykos an inch or two under. I will update in 48hr. 16/07/18 - all three seeds germed fine all with 1cm+ tails and planted in 80/20 coco/perlite mix with some mykos mixed in and a layer of it 1-2 inch down from where seeds were planted. I watered them each with 600ml roughly before planting and will update when they break through. 18/07/18 - 48hrs since seeds where planted and can see first set of true leaves already, I’ve got a steady 60-70% humidity and staying at 24 degrees Celsius. I’m going to spray them tonight with some ph’ed water with a tiny bit of rhizo.

UPDATE 23-05-2020 START WEEK 1 BLOOM !!! I see they starting to get 'white wigs' like I call them. Enjoy the video!

Harvested 1st plant at day 65 it could have gone longer but I needed smoke so it had to go lol!trichomes wer 95% milky with a few amber