Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Girls are coming along well transplanted set 1&2... seem to be loving it....we getting there

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 The buds start to forming and stems coming alone full of little buds 😍😋. Nothing to say, was long to start but now booming 💥 🔥 . 💧Give water each 2 or 3 days 1,5l Water + Nutri NPK Bloom + Nutri NPK Cal Mag PH @6 - Nutri NPK Calmag 1/8 tsp for 1 gal. Bloom 1/2 tsp for 1 gal. 💡Mars Hydro - SP 3000 100% 42 cm. 🔥 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾💚🌲. Mars Hydro - SP 3000 💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light NUTRI NPK 💥🔥 https://www.nutrinpk.com/product/npk-mix-pak-for-4-to-5-plants-cannabis-fertilizer/ Sweet Seeds - Mimosa Bruce Banner XL Auto 🌲🌲 https://sweetseeds.es/en/autoflowering-seeds/3232-mimosa-bruce-banner-xl-auto.html

At the second day of week 2 the first two leaves of each Mimosa look a little crinkled, but the environment is ok and the Peyote in the same tent looks good so i think it is characteristic of this particular strain. At the fourth day of week 2 the plants show signs of explosive growth

My first seed didn't make it due to technical difficulties, so I popped another to try to maximize the output from the mini machine. She is growing well at day 7. Seeing some leaf curling from her adjusting to the environment, but she is still showing steady growth. She is a week behind the 2 plants that were originally germinated. She will be topped around day 10 or 12 as soon as the third node comes up enough to pinch off. I started this setup to compete in the solo cup challenge, but I needed something that will be minimal maintainence and doesn't require hand watering. So this is what I ended up with. I will not be entering since I know it will bring controversy, but I am going to follow the rules and treat this grow as if I am competing. I didn't want to use regular solo cups because last time I had a lot of algae growing in the root zone when I harvested. I opted to use a black light proof cup. These cups were 27 oz originally so I filled them with 16 oz of water, marked the level, then cut them down to 16 oz. I set the drain pipes about an inch from the bottom so they have a little reserve if I have pump or power issues. I know people will see the drains as a way for roots to grow out of the cup but in reality I have to keep the entire pipe free of roots or it will clog and overflow. So I am actually losing a little volume due to this. I filled the bottom inch or so of the cups with river gravel to stop the perlite from washing into the reservoir. I am running a 5 gallon reservoir with a small air pump and the plants will be getting irrigated 24 hours a day from an aquarium power head pump. I set the system up to be totally self contained and easily portable. It was all built from things I had laying around other than 97¢ for the cups. I will be keeping the feed simple as always feeding maxigro and maxibloom with a couple flower boosters.

I mean, overall this was an extremely painless grow. The test of whether we should or shouldn't top autos is still TBD imo. Our topped candidate produced denser, frostier buds, but weighed slightly less, at 14 grams of bud total. And our lst plant produced 18 grams of bud, not as frosty, and almost as dense as our topped girl. I'll be topping autoflowers from here on out only under the circumstance I have 4+ to grow at the same time. Seems like it could be used to speed up the autoflower grow cycle if done properly, like with right. Since I'm doing a perpetual cycle, it's still a viable option for me in the long run. A few tips I have for anyone growing this strain in organics: Start feeding bloom nutes a little bit prior to flower transition - this makes the transition more seemless. From weeks 1-3 flower, I slowly dropped the grow dosage until I cut off grow nutes week 3 flower. Starting the flush around week 6 flower seemed to really bring out this plant's potential. But I think you could get away with starting the flush around week 5. I hope this helps anyone trying this strain out. It's a good one, I hope to see more journals of it, eventually. Cheers everyone! Time for me to take a well-deserved puff. :) ☁️ 🌼

Some of the plants showing more signs of yellowing from watering issues and ph issues. Luckily I was able to get a nice strong batch of Boogie Brew compost tea made and gave them all a nice soak and bath with it. Within two days all but one of the plants bounced back. Now that the plants are able to fend for themselves a little better was a good opportunity to try to harden them off the ones going outside to the elements outside. I did so by placing on a shaded part of my deck for a few hours. I was also able to get my tent inside ready and they were moved from the small cool grows tent to my 4x8 tent with my big lights. I adjusted the light to be around 500 PPFD at canopy.

Harvest day 76. Dry in 50-60% humidity, totally night and ventilation maxed 🔥🍊💨 I'm filled with pain as happy for the end of our adventure together. Dry Day 1-2: humidity level 55-60 Dry Day 3-4 : 52-58 Dry Day 5-6-7 : 50-55 Manicure day 3 and 6 of dry ✂️ Use Ice-O-Lator to make Orange Sherbet bubble hash My density note : 8/10 Speed : Really fast, some LST, defoliation, toping. She really looks good ever time!

Que hay familia, yo deseando finalizar estas cookies que han fascinado me tienen, tienen un buen porte y unos buenos satélites, un ejemplar creció demasiado pero not bad. Ph controlado y humedad / temperatura relativamente dentro de los parámetros correctos. Nuestras crazy cookies de zambezaseeds visualmente están espléndidas, tienen un verde sano que me gusta, y principalmente no es difícil de cultivar tampoco, hay que tener algo de cuidado con la altura y pasarlas pronto a floración. Por lo general tienen un buen comportamiento en indoor , así que veremos estas semanas el crecimiento y la formación de las flores.

This has been going for more than intended, but I lack light still to fill in the whole tent. I will continue for more weeks in order for all the plants to mature and be able to dry it at the same place.

It’s the 1st week of flower I flipped the plants to 12/12 a few days ago. There is a lot going on and a lot of cool and amazing things coming in the near future. Make sure to check out my YouTube page. I bought me a DJI gimbal this week. Might be my new favorite toy. The temps are starting to break for the summer. I don’t see it being very long until winter is here and it’s time to use a heater and not an ac unit. All of the plants are healthy. The plants have all grown so well I turned down the light intensity a bit today the plants didn’t seem like they was starting to strech very much. Hopefully the lower light intensity will make them strech out just a bit

Posting the phenos when I do them

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ________________________________ 📅 D63/B01 - 17/01/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.1 pH: 7.4 🌡️ T: 23 °C H: 58% 🌊 Flushing 🍗 💧 💼 Added CO2 dispenser system 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added 1 pic ________________________________ 📅 D64/B02 - 18/01/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.9 pH: 7.2 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 53% 🌊 Res changed 🍗 Added CalMag - Bloom A-B - B-52 - Bud Candy - Rhino Skin - Voodo Juice 💧 🧠 pH is still too high, I'm evaluating to use pH- 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D65/B03 - 19/01/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 7.4 🌡️ T: 20 °C H: 45% 🌊 Added a little bit of pH- 🍗 💧 💼 LST 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and 1 pic ______________________ 📅 D66/B04 - 20/01/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 7.4 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 51% 🌊 🍗 💼 LST 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D67/B05 - 21/01/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 7.4 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 Added 6L 🍗 Added Calmag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and 2 pics ________________________________ 📅 D68/B06 - 22/01/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 5.9 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 51% 🌊 🍗 💧 Added pH- 💼 🧠 🚀 As I would join this contest : https://growdiaries.com/giveaways/TrolMaster-Tent-X-Ultimate-Grow-Challenge I asked for a Tent-X device and they accepted to borrow it to me until the contest ends. 🎬 Added 1 pic ________________________________ 📅 D69/B07 - 23/01/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 51% 🌊 Added 4L of water 🍗 Added Calmag - Big Bud - B52 - Bud Candy 💧 💼 🧠 pH is finally stable on the lower side (hopefully) 🚀 🎬 Added 4 pics

Die Woche über haben sich die Blüten weiter entwickelt. Die Trichome wurden mehr und man fängt an erste Terpene zu riechen. Wir haben Donnerstag (BT 21) stark entlaubt und schauen jetzt wie die Pflanzen wachsen. Z-Up haben wir ziemlich extrem entlaubt. Mal schauen wie sie reagiert.

I fiori diventano sempre più compatti e incominciano a sentirsi sempre di più i profumi delle cime Sono riuscito a stabilizzare la temperatura a 24.5 gradi con la lampada al 100% di intensità luminosa a 45cm dalle cime Questa settimana per pulire un po’ il substrato ho dato 2 irrigate a ph 6.4 e circa 100ppm

Update of the garden

3rd jan 2025 The seeds arrived I right away let it sit in a glass of purified water over night while prepare a soil 4th jan 2025 Put seed in a cup of pre-mixed soil 6th jan 2025 Clearly Germination visible on both At this moment i do not have any gear even a tent or proper grow light and nutrients solution. only with 80w 169led 15*15cm led grow light so i let them grow in a diy modded grow box and purified water