She drinks like no other auto I've grown before she loves the nutrients but I'm keeping the PPMs below 650 for now. I'll be testing her a 750 this week and if she continues showing no signs of deficiencies I'm leaning on trying the product from Green Planet called Dense which is 0-0-62!!! This week all plants but the Sweet Tooth will be getting Massive nutrients from Green Planet which does wonders for getting those fat colas.

40086

Paper towel after 12h of glass of water.

Wuuuhuullll!!!!! :D can’t wait for new blueberrys!!!

Tangie'Matic coming along nicely. Nice size buds, smells really good, and good color overall. She's quite a bit smaller than my first Tangie'Matic. But I have a feeling this girl is going to taste better (fingers crossed).

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

Been flushing from day 70 (7 days) some nice purple and red showing as the plant uses its reserves up , I will chop tomorrow at 78 days of flower .

Seconda settimana di veg...la runtz che è nata prima dell'altra sta mutando in modo strano. Non avevo mai visto spostarsi il centro apicale..sembra che si è piegata e l'apicale sta crescendo come sé fosse un ramo laterale 😂🤣🤦💪

I honestly can't wait for this one to be done so I can try it out. The terps on this on is crazy!! That dank sweet cherry smell. Buds are forming more and more. Top Dressed with 8 tbps of BuildaSoil build a flower and 6 tbsp of BuildaSoil Craft Blend

Hi growers, so the girls are getting going Zombie D.F. in 3-liter pots got pH Perfect Connoisseur A+B Grow 3 ml, B-52 0.75 ml, Katana Roots 3 ml, Silicon 3 ml, Zenzym 3 ml, Terra Grow 3 ml, Bio Down 1 ml. I’m learning to use pH Perfect, but after adding 1 ml / EC it goes up to 1.5 and the pH only drops to 7.4, so I’d rather add a bit of Bio-Down. Otherwise, I did topping on three autos, and defoliation and light training on the photoperiod plants.And in the end, thanks, and I’ll be glad for any advice.

Strains: Zamnesia – Strawberry Cough | Kalini Asia | Permanent Marker Grow Type: Indoor Plants: 3 Pot Size: 16 Gallon & 13 Gallon Medium: Coco Coir & Perlite Nutrient Line: Athena Week 4 Flower Update We’re in week 4 now and things are starting to look real nice. Buds are filling out properly and you can see them starting to take shape across all three plants. Frost is beginning to come in as well, not heavy yet but definitely showing up and getting more noticeable. I did notice a slight nutrient burn on the tips of some leaves nothing crazy, just a little sign that they’re getting a bit more than they need. I’ll dial the nutrients back slightly and keep things in check. Nothing to stress about. Other than that, everything is running smooth. Plants look healthy, structure is holding up, and they’re right where they should be at this stage. Really looking forward to seeing how they swell up over the next couple weeks. Feeding Volume: 6L pH: 6.0 PPM: 900–950 ppm (slightly reduced) Frequency: As neede Indoor Climate Conditions (Flowering) 🌡️ Temperature: 26°C day / 18°C night 💧 Humidity: 45–50% 📈 VPD: 1.3–1.5 kPa Coming into that good part of flower now 🔥 let’s see them stack up 🌿

Plant at the front #3 has had slowed growth but buds are filling out pretty well now, pretty sure she is a Orange sherbet. Back 2 are on week 3 day 17!!! & Are going Awesome, buds stacking up & down every branch! Going to get some really good Cola's of them! They are loving the 730watts!’ of light, back left plant looks like a Tropicana Cookies, going to do some defoliation on her & tie branches down a bit to open up middle of plant to allow more light & air to lower bud sites.

Growing fast liking the #3 for far #1 is the slowest growing Top plants heads on 7/18/2 Seedlings was transplant on 7/21/25 into the 5 gal Put in my 4x4 to continue veg

Day 40F Today Reservoir is currently empty & aqua-vale full on each autopot. I refill the tank with 10gal water + a mixture of boost 200ml then I’ll PH adjust & turn on my reservoir on day Day 45F. Last video i support the heavier branches with yo-yo

Day 57. Everything looking good, some look like their stretch is done, bud sites everywhere, fed them 1 L - 1.5 L of their solution. Using boost and terpinator. Day 58. Fed them Full with 20% runoff. They are starting to smell really good. Removed a lower branch on some of the plants since the light wasn't going to reach. Removed some fan leaves on some of the plants giving room for bud sites to get some light. Day 59. Looking real good, some still haven't stretched but have buds growing. I'm expecting them to stretch this week. I'm always giving them something to drink and they love it! *********** Day 60. So down to 8 plants. It sucks because one of the barney’s pinneaple chunk that hermied was a real beast with huge branches and buds, but tips of pistils were brown so probably would of had seeds even if i would of cut the balls as they grew. I saw some pistils on another plant that turned brown, Going to keep that one since it’s not hermie and just 2 pistils that are brown tipped. Fed them 1.5 L of solution each no runoff. Day 61. Looking good, buds growing nicely, long white hairs so i’m expecting big colas. All of them stretched except the 2 Diesel strain. Keeping light at 14-22inches from top of colas and humidity at 35-40%. Fed them 1 L -1.5 L solution each no runoff. Day 62. Defoliation, removed some fan leaves covering bud sites towards the middle of the lights. I make sure to not over do it and place the plants correctly for the bud sites to get direct light. I’m having a hard time with the 2 Diesel plants, they aren’t stretching and are slow on forming buds, they gave me a hard time through whole grow. Fed them All 1.5 - 2.5 L each of their solution with little or no runoff. Day 63. The 2 Diesel are starting to have their stretch. Everything looking good, buds are getting bigger and bigger. Making sure humidity is always under 45%. Keeping lights at 10-20inches from top of main colas. 40k-70k lux on the lights , updated with pictures. ***** Checked out plants and signs of hermies are showing, i see some male balls Both Barneys Pinneaple Chunk are showing signs of hermies ( balls growing ), going to remove both from tent and focus on the 8 other ones. What a terrible day ( day 59 )

so weit alles schick hat ein guten Sprung gemach hoffe bleibt so und das sie weiter so gut kommt

On this day beautiful Sunday I hope you all are doing amazing! Its Day 64 for Buddy, you can see from the Pics she's going crazy now 😌 This week the buds started taking shape 🥦, I'm not really sure but I think she's done with her stretch and started putting the focus on the good stuff. Maybe she'll be done with it this week we'll see. In the meantime, some Pistils started turning orange but I know she still has a few weeks to go. We'll see with how she develops, imma start getting my loupe ready 🔎 👀 I added Advance Nutrients Overdrive to the feed 🔥 I'm happy with SeedStockers, I'm thinking of running more phenos from them in the coming months 💐👌🏾 Time to change my Co2 packs and mess with the humidity. I read 40 to 60 % humidity is advised during flowering but I think it's all about keeping the humidity below 70 especially if you live somewhere hot like me. That includes keeping your growth area super clean and avoid watering when not needed too 👍🏾 I decided to never hit 40 because the dehumidifier it self produces heat + the Ligth's heat that all adds up to 40°C real quick. I almost had a heart attack when I read that on my temperature monitor 😂 We humans don't function properly at such temperatures and I'm sure as hell these plants won't either Take care Y'all and I just wish to say I'm really grateful to grow in these times. I live in one of the nations still on lockdown, it's been going on for months now so yeah Peace ✌️🏾

The plant has recovered well from the last capping and defoliation🏻‍♀️ A few leaves have yellowed a little, but that's not so bad🏻‍♂️ It will get a compost tea🍵 in a few days when it is sent into flower and then everything will be fine again😊💪🏻🏻 The compost tea is brewed and was given to the Watermelon Runtz at day 49 of Veg🍉🏃‍♂️