The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Roberts
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Grand Daddy Purple auto is doing great. She is showing some pistils, and is stretching. I trimmed her underside some. Everything is looking good at the moment. Thank you ILGM, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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Everything is going great, I also think my plants have stopped stretching/growing, although really close to the lights. I am not seeing lightburn, is this is something should be concerned about? The leaf temp is about 75 degree under the light. Also just sticking with AN Bloom, Big Bud, Bud Candy. Should I be using B52? Also is overdrive worth it? it seems expensive for two weeks worth of work? One more question? Is superThrive bad in flowering? I read somewhere it could make bad things happen in flower because of the hormones it has. thus my question about B52.
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Thank you soo much Humboltd seeds. I love your qualitty. Another my favorite indica strain. 🍀 i love this strain ❤️
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@Ageddd
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------------------------- | BLUEBERRY HARVEST | ------------------------- After two sunny days it is harvest time !! - Finally, 16 days of flush - At first thought, the trimming would be easier compared to my previous plants, but when removing more leaves, more buds appearing too hahaha so it took like 4 hours or more..It is not the most accuurate trimming but i had not much time that day, i removed all the leaves and branches after weighting it all.. Like i said on the last post, im harvesting having in mind my bud preferences (the later the better), weather, humidity and sunlight, so the first of the cloudy/rainy days she was chopped in the moring, attending the principle of thc regeneration at night.. Got to say that, i wasnt expecting such production (8 days until it was well dried), this plant started as the season saver because the Cheese started to flower in march, revegged etc.. and i have been rewarded with this BB, a true genetic portent !! If i could, i would keep her as mother forever ^^ The quality is awesome, she looks more like a WW talking about that coat of thc.. Flavour without proper cure, is deep earthy at first, transitioning to a fruity, sweet one, it is a pleasure to smoke, delicious sweet aftertaste.. Maybe, this is the last year with this awesome climate, because im planning to leave Spain.. Thank you for follow and check !!! I hope you liked the diary :) Song of the week : Radiohead - Codex Good Vibes GrowDiaries !! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 000000000000
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@TheeLemon
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Left it alone since flipping. Nice amount of stretching. Almost covering the netting now. Getting a little crowded, I should have done more defoliation
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This week was pretty mellow. Not much done. Watered twice this week, with second watering made some compost tea I brewed up on Thursday. Plants seem very happy. Smell is getting a little stronger. Not sure I have smelled anything some grapey. Very strange doesn't even seem real...lol. Loving this grow!!!
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@Brujha77
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Sooo, Die beiden haben es nun auch geschafft. Punktlandung, genau 9 Wochen Blüte. Muss sagen der Run war absolut entspannt. Gerade in Verbindung mit dem Blumat... Gewogen wurde nicht... Hängen nun zum Trocknen im Zelt bei ca. 21°C und ca. 48-55% Rlf.
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@Grey_Wolf
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Testing for Connoisseur genetics Outback haze #1 7th March 2022 Welcome to week 23 😀 Both of these ladies are looking fantastic as they progress into the blooming stage 💪 Absolute monster on the left is my favourite of the two but the other isn't too bad either . Neither have needed any feeds with the soil providing plenty of nutrition at this stage. 100% sativa's or in this case haze are fairly low maintenence when it comes to feeding . chuck in some manure or something ( I am using guano ) and they will happily grow along nicely . Did you know that Connoisseur genetics are looking for new testers for their newest strains?? to be considered you just need to have had a few diaries with harvests Thanks once again for stopping by 👍 *****Major Update 10th March ***** Plant two developed ball sacks along with her pistils so unfortunately I had to pull her out and destroy the plant. I know some people might think I could have tried removing the sacs and giving the plant a chance . But I am trying to make myself some F1 hybrids and do not want any Hermies anywhere near my females . Now because this strain has Thai genetics there is always that chance they throw "nanners" but usually later in flower so for this one to show itself right on the start of flowering is enough for me to pull it , burn it with fire . Or in this case I'm gonna let the sun solarise it and then it'll be mulched with other plant materials from my garden.
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What another great week!! The 5 Fastbud Wedding Cheesecake autos are looking great!! I started on veg feed this week on Monday , 1 tsp Rapid start , 1 tsp Calmag, 2 tsp micro , 3 tsp gro and 1 tsp of bloom, PH at 6.5 !! They are underneath my HLG Scorpion Rspec at 100%pwr , 49 inches to floor at Par 500-520 ! Loving it in their AC Infinity 3 gal pots ! Can’t wait to see these babies in their prime!! 😍😍 Y’all have a great amazing safe weekend and don’t forget Peace, Love, an Positive Vibes to you all beautiful ppl! Happy grows ✌️💚 Cheers
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Que pasa familia, empezamos la primera semana de floración de estas Original de GrowBarato. Y es que no veáis de un momento a otro se quedaron sin espacio, vaya estirón esta última semana. Están bastante sanas , tienen muy buen color, se practicó una limpia de bajos y ramas que no eran necesarias porque no llegaran a la luz. Hasta ahora todo bien y ya superamos esta primera semana. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 50%/65% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.
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@Kendoda
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I’m flipping 12/12 this evening. I had a little tip burn on a couple of leaves of the Fullgas. These were in the central area of the light so I just eased off a little on the light intensity and haven’t noticed any issue since. It’s also a little dark atm so will hold off adding the bio grow until next week. Update ** Ive upped the light power by 10% again and watered in 4ml of Alg a mic in 2L of water.
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@Radagast_
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03.07. Dos Si Dos 33# 1# Day 69# Dos Si Dos 33# 2# Day 69# Nothing special is happening, it's been 4 days since the last update, I was a little late last time, so here I am so I won't be late again. Tomorrow is the end of the tenth week for the plants, this morning I fed them, before that I gave them only water for 2 waterings, that is, they were in water for a whole week. It's hot right now and I'm watering them every 3 days, this morning they each got 30+ liters, anyway, except for the ones in smaller pots, they got a lot less.
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Big week! With alot to say here!! The first two apace mango that I harvested two weeks ago, finished up drying at 10 days. I trimmed them up today nice and pretty! These were the smallest two plants of this strain in this run, and the yield reflects that. I find that with autoflowers, the bigger the plant, the longer it takes to mature. With the amount of LST I use, my plants tend to take longer than if I were to let them go without lst.. but, its well worth the reward. 1st two harvested yielded 125 grams od high quality, marketable quality flower. After dry period. And 7 grams of high quality, first run, dry sift kief. Next order of business. Harvest 3rd plant on Thursday of this week. (Today is Sunday). I currently have it drying in a tent. (Along with a Northern lights that isnt in a diary). She will dry this entire week, and i may have havest numbera on her when i updated this diary again! Looking 🔥🔥 LAST ORDER OF BUSINESS I hve attached photos of the final 2 space mango from this run. They are by far the largest plants and will be the highest yielding from this run. I expect around 4 ounces from each plant. Give or take. Plants are fading nicely, and i am currently still feeding only water. I have attached photos first of the remaining two space mango plants that are still building. 2nd. I attached photos of the processed flower from the first two harvested on this run.
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Branches couldn't manage the weight so everything caved in like dominoes smh. I decided to chop on rainbow cake to help with air flow. Humidity is at 45 degrees steadily but im not risking mold or mildew this late in the grow. I added Ripen to the nutrient regimen at 5ml per gallon.
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Algums papagaios passaram pelo meu quintal e se interessaram pelas plantas. Por sorte só comeram as folhas grandes. Ficaram um dia na estufa e já trouxe de volta para o sol.
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@CaliJ
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Day 49: last day of nutrition for the fast eddy, which seems to be almost ready already. Stoppage of pk 13/14, day 49. day 50: 2 week rinse for all. ⚠️ My led lamp is a Prima Klima - LED Shuttles 6 dimmable 240W, I am very satisfied with this lamp (check out my other diaries). which I recommend, but which unfortunately is not in the list proposed on growdiaries
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Diese Woche habe ich die FC 4000 Evo auf 60% runter gedimmt und von Mars Hydro UV Infrarot und deep red lampen installiert und liege insgesamt bei einem ppfd von rund 1000. Damit konnte ich auf eine ähnliche Stromleistung kommen wir als wenn ich die FC 4000 auf 75% gedimmt habe und habe eine höheren ppfd bei niedrigerem Stromverbrauch