Nearly ready to be chopped, start flushing and will chop in about a week or 1,5 week

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

This plant is a monster idk what else to say 🤣 I'm stoked as hell and can garentee it will have best yield iv had indoor to date off one plant I can't believe how well it takes to training it is slow coming into flower and all the nodes are crazy close together these nugs are gonna be massive and heavy the roots on this plant are so robust you can't stick in a probe it's solid roots as u can see in the video the soil is straight roots not even a half inch under surface she's inhaling tons of water stay tuned it's gonna be worth it !!

28.07.23-день тренировок для начала сделал агрессивную деволиацию , затем без труда растянул все ветки по периметру . Теперь новые побеги получают свет и воздух ! После тренировок принято решение поднять ппм до 750-800 и пш 5.9—выход ппм 700-670 , пш 5.6. Наблюдаем дальше , почтение очень красивое и пушистое . 02.08.23-Сделал сильную дефолиацию , растение очень компактное с небольшими листьями и выглядит как зеленей шар ) Все колы находятся на одном расстоянии . Честно говоря это мой любимый цветок 🌹 увеличил ппм до 900 и дал больше места для растяжки ! В планах дать еще 4 недели вегетации и сделать из нее монстра )

Welcome to my Ztrawberry Diary sponsored by Green House Seeds. Days 85-98 Flowering Days 35-47 Flower Days 17-30 Plant is coming along real nice. She has stacked up in mass, rock hard big ass buds. Gonna be a very intense smoke. Has taken awhile for the top buds and bottom to follow up. Nearly all pistils up and down the plant are 70-30 Trichomes are nearly all cloudy pushing 35+ambers. Another week on water after this. I've upped the co2 to combat the high tent temperatures of 29c. Her buds are big, dense, stick of ripe berries with hints of gas and other a dank musk. Bit pungent. Really nice. Time for soft flushing. And to go under SF-1000 or lower the temperature. Diet/Defoliation Added a few of plagrons organic like with Atami products and all buds are getting nice and evenly ripening. Very happy with the products I used this grow, mainly Green House Feeding mineral line, and got some amazing fungi from the Biobloom I used at the start of pre flower. Carried her through most of her bloom phases. And I had to add other PK booster and a few terpine enhancers. This was her last day on nutrients. She'll be going under my SF-1000 now for ripening with lower temps. She's only been heavily on co2 this wk. (A few days. So, it won't of had much affect on it boost wise). Got a decent defol through her later stages of bloom. Most of her fans were removed and took a few sugars, well they were fans before the cakyxs swollen. Very sticky with a lovely gasy berrie smell that's very lovely. Thanks to my sponsor from Green House Seeds, & shout out to mars-hydro for the lights. COUPONS Mars-Hydro "ggs" 3% WW Spiderfarmer.eu "ggst" 3% EU only. Zamneisa "GROWITGD" 20% WW.

Finally harvested her and will update a smoke report and weight once dry!.

Do-Si-Dos is looking great! Very strong and should have some good growth this week. Stating to take off now. Day 7: Still slightly yellow, might be hungry or slightly over-watered. Will feed nutes in the next few days and see. Temp: 75º RH 75% PPFD: 300 VPD: .41 kPa Day 8: Just misting no water or nutes yet. Looking good. Temp: 75º RH 75% PPFD: 300 VPD: .41 kPa Day 9: Fed 2ml Cal-Mag, 2 ml FloraMicro, 1ml FlorGro, 1ml FloraBloom PH 6.2. Temp: 75º RH 70% PPFD: 400 VPD: .72 kPa Day 10: Responging well to nutes. Looking much darker green today, must have been hungry for nutes. Temp: 70º RH 75% PPFD: 400 VPD: .72 kPa Day 11: Growing and looking darker green today. New leaf growth. Temp: 77º RH 55% PPFD: 500 VPD: .67 kPa Day 12: New growth. Temp: 73º RH 62% PPFD: 500 VPD: .67 kPa Day 13: New leaf growth. Temp: 75º RH 60% PPFD: 500 VPD: .62 kPa Day 14: New leaf growth. Fed 4ml FloraMicro, 6ml FloraGro, 3ml FloraBloom and 2ml CalMag. Temp: 78º RH 61% PPFD: 500 VPD: .76 kPa

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Transplanted week 5 put it 3 gal cloth pots 1/3 strawberry fields soil, 2/3 Happy frog, 1/2 cup rice hulls total, mixed into both soils. watered with recharge mix 1/4 tsp to a gallon of water. Back in to the veg tent.

This girl has been one of my favorites. Pineapple express is true to it name looking like a pineapple once it fades the yellow, and the green are very beautiful together smells gassy with pineapple busting out of every tone

My apologies on never giving a smoke report. I ran into a situation where I had 2 weeks to move across country. I don't like to include untrue data to my expectation/ perceptions.

Super burnt lol. Ooops I'll still finish her off and hope for the best. Should still be some decent smoke 👌

This week has been a good one all round. The sun has been beaming down all day for days and I still due to continue for a while. The gorilla 🦍 has now started to get to a nice bushy size, unfortunately outgrowing the original tent position. After the mistake I made with the Rhino Ryder I grew by taking the bold move to leave permanently in the elements, the cold temps at night really slowed bud production. I have had to improvise and make a shoddy attempt at lifting the tent to allow the room needed.

Alles entwickelt sich sehr gut, nur hab ich heute 3 Pollensäcke gefunden und gleich entfernt. Hoffe das nicht noch mehr nach kommen sonst muss die Lady ausziehen. 17.07 Es wurden sechs weitere Bananen entdeckt und entfernt. Komischerweise nur an den oberen Buds, Ich hoffe, es werden nicht noch mehr, aber bisher lässt sich das Problem im Zaum halten. Ansonsten reagieren die Pflanzen sehr gut auf die Erhöhung des Düngers nach Schema

New week, new fun. Runtz is simply a brilliant genetic. I wish many other strains, like the Zamnesia Blueberry Auto, would behave the same way as Runtz does as an automatic. The smell drives you crazy. Runtz has a wilder scent, but unlike its companions, it is now beginning to develop a new fruity-sweet aroma. I noticed this for the first time today. As you can see in the pictures, the strain makes a great impression and grows excellently without much worry. However, one thing to note: Runtz takes significantly more time. Almost as if it knows that good results require patience. A very good genetic—I'm almost tempted to grow it outdoors to see how it develops there. I can't say much about the taste yet, but for anyone who knows Runtz, I can only recommend this strain from Zamnesia. Green Sensation from Plagron is doing its job. It seems to be doing the plants a lot of good. This makes growing in the Grow Cup really fun. I hope I'll get the chance from 💙💙💙Zamnesia💙💙💙 to participate in more events like this.

17/05/2020: ENG: talking about the gorillas, they are 81 and 82 days of LIFE. Let me know your opinions... SHOULD I START THE FLUSH (SHOWER AND THEN JUST WATER) OR SHULD I CONTINUE THE FEEDING ONE MORE WEEK ?? THE CRYSTALS STILL QUITE TRANSPARENT, BUT I DONT KNOW IF I SHOULD FLUSH AT THE MILKY POINT OR DO IT NOW BECAUSE IF NOT IT WILL BE TOO LATER... Despite of Lemon Haze , just let me know in the comments, I just want to give thanks to Luis from Eurogrow as he gifted me this seed when one of my gorillas dryed at the first stages (WEEK 2) ESP: respecto a las gorilas...ESTOY TO RALLAO. No se si hacer el lavado de raíces (meterla a la ducha y luego darle solo agua cuando la maceta se seque) o bien darle una semana mas de alimentación para que sigan engordando porque la verdad, no paran y los tricomas aun estan bastante transparentes. Pero tengo miedo de esperar al punto justo para hacer el lavado de raíces, porque se que despues del lavado deberé dejarla 10 dias mas aproximadamente... Respecto a la Lemon Haze , dejarme que opinais vosotros. yo solo tengo que dar las gracias a Luís de Eurogrow, ya que me regaló esta semilla al morir una de mis Gorilla Glue.. Gracias ;

Entering the 11th week and she is still filling in slowly but surely! I did some more LST to tie down some branches even further and open up the spacing between colas to allow light to get in to lower buds. I also did some defoliation as she is super bushy. This variety has been know to take a little longer to finish and she is right in line with that. I am honestly thinking another three weeks at least before harvest.

Day 30 Top dressed each 5 gal 444 gia green 1.5 tbsp Kelp meal 1tbsp Super fly insect frass. 1 tbsp .5 tbsp of mykos. 1 Tsp glacial rock dust Feed microbial tea. Day 29 and 30. 24 and 48 brew. Crab meal half cup per 5 gal Alfalfa meal half cup per 5 gal I think some humic granual acid for nutrient uptake. Can’t remember Also spread out red wiggler worms “equally” to each pot. Topped some plants after video. Will update in a few days of response to topping. Day 34 last day of week 4 veg. Set the auto water system up. video update showing the system and each plant. Runt gelato does not have auto water. I’ve got 1 to many pots in my veg tent currently.