Día 6 de diciembre ,tenemos una amanecida de gran niebla que se mantuvo en la mañana con ello una alta temperatura en la noche del cultivo amaneciendo este a 90% de humedad Después del encendido de la luminaria y colocar dos pequeños humificadores de usar y tirar..en dos horas ,la humedad se mantiene bien. 55% En el día de antes de ayer se le aplicó un buen riego. Día 7 Humedad en el cultivo de un 60% Hoy le e metido otro riego con todos sus nutrientes de vegetación y metiéndole un poco de floración La EC 1100 El ph 6 Un ventilador dejó de ser oscilante para quedarse fijo.. hahaha meteré otro en unos días más grande y oscilante .

Day 43 - added water 0.5L Day 44 - added water with filtlizer 0.5L . Day 45 - added water 0.5L . I have stop use humidifyer . Day 46 - added water with filtlizer 0.5L . Day 47 -added water 0.5L . Day 48 - added 1 L water + 1 liter water with filtlizer . Having some mite issuie ,I went to the store and got some neem oil lets see how it went . Sprayed on each plant 1 L water . NeemBe (biobee) 10 Mg. Day 49 - added 0.5 L water and tie up the big plant becuse of the hight .

week intel: we reached the peak of flowering stage and need to cause a little more e.c stress from this week so e.c stress is twice a week i reduced the amount of Nitrogen and calcium and stopped feeding silicate in other hand i raised the amount of base nutrient and booster short story version: more K & P - less N stresses : a little E.C stress around 1 and 1.2 twice a week from this week feeding: i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them high with base nutrients(calcium & micros (half dose) + Bloom) about 566 ppm - 1.1 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them low dose of Top-Max + B-52 around 392 ppm - 0.7 e.c to let them recover a little but not fully recover still a little stress will caused. day 5 : i feed them high dose of Feeding Booster around 630 ppm - 1.2 e.c to cause e.c stress again guide of the week : e.c stress if done correctly is one of the very few ways to increase quality in all aspects ( color , aroma , taste , bud structure , resin contents ) but if you over do it , listen carefully brother : it can reduce quality in every aspect so always look for signs and never reach the red line

First time running hydroponics. And I’ll say it’s pretty easy although running into problems with ph rising cause of not using ro water so it started getting a potassium deficiency. I think I’m prepared for next run.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY EDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Sweet Skunk doing great. During lst one big branch broke 😕. Couldn t fix it. It stressed her a bit I guess. Some small

Wow! Super fun strain to grow. Smells like stawberries and cream. For real. It is mindblowing. I hope fresh frozen live rosin will be fire when I'll make it in a week. Very sturdy plant, but not very resistant to high temperatures - some phenos tend to foxtail then. But apart from that it is one of the best I've ever grown - up to par with MAC1 👽 or Grandpa's Cookies 🍪 Top tier terpenes and resin production. I love it 😍 It is my personal record - 3064g (wet) from 3 plants from 4x4ft tent 😎💪 Should be ~800-900g of dry flower if I'd ever dry it (but 99% of it is ment for fresh frozen bubble hash and rosin pressing - flowers are already in deep freeze apart from small 10g sample I'm drying normally). Seeds are not cheap - you have to but 20, but I highly recommend this cultivar. Yield blown my mind. I hope it'll taste and wash as good as it smells 🙏

Without many words! she's perfect! both in health and in appearance and in development!) and what is the healthy color of the leaves ?!))

Week 4 the girls are really growing and stretching i gave them a defolation and light misting started Lst to all my plants. These plants are showing a lot of new bud sites

Tout se deroule à merveille ! Temperature entre 21 et 22.5 led alumée. 18 19 eteinte. J’ai acheté un chauffage pour l’hiver au cas-où

She is growing good. Defoleated A lot. She is starting to get frosty. No burn upped the newts to 680 ppm. Hung the second light. So things should get interesting.

Flower week 3

Plant #1, the cookie descendent, or what is left of it has seen no change this week. I think she is in shock after harvesting so many of the main buds at once... No sign of BR though, so I think we've nipped that in the bud as it were 😂 The main buds dried already (7 days, could be better) and were put in a sealed container to cure with a 62% pack. Not a lot of smell coming from them yet but imagine that will improve even though they were harvested probably only just at the beginning of the window. I'll report back. At least it smells much better than whatevers going on with #2... The purp (#2) smells almost musty... There's no fruitiness or familiar dank smells coming from this one. I guess it smells a lil fizzy? But not in any way I'd find appetising, especially not from bud. But we've been watering with plain pH-adjusted water to see if that helps bring out her terp profile, and that's been for more than a week now. No change thus far. And she's still quite dark green! I think that is partly genetic... Glad to have the grow out of my closet and into a well made tent! Thanks for checking in, good luck folx

The 4 plants that will go on to flowering has received some training in prep for flowering.

this week the plants have started flowering and I notice that the two that previously were more leafy are yellowing I try to increase the fertilizer slightly and see if they settle but everything else seems fine to me

What can I say about this lady? Well let's see. She's sticky as hell. She's a 🔝 trichomes machine. Beautiful hard dense nuggets. Very spicy and piney aroma, very very strong, stinks my whole balcony. What a great a beautiful Gorilla strain man. Definitely will grow her many more times. Top Gorilla strain. 🦍👽💎 ❄️ Peace everybody! 💚 🌱 ✌️

Getting close now! I’m starting to see my first couple of Amber trichomes. I’m hoping that this will start to be harvested in about 10 days. Well at least that’s what I hope, because I stopped feeding her now. She’s blooomin.

All is going good. Buds are getting fatter by the day and she is smelling strong & wonderful 😀

Las pequeñas tienes bastante fuerza a excepción de una purple punch que está algo estancada pero sus hojas se ven sanas, esta semana apliqué enraizante y luego solo agua hasta 3 semana volveré a aplicar, las blue mammoth vienen hermosas al parecer son más resistentes.