3/11/2023 Week 4- Day 1 of Veg (Day 38 overall)| As a precaution I changed out the water in the system today at the 1 week mark to try and make sure I am giving the most to the roots to ensure a healthy successful grow. Gallons into the system = 36 Gal Mammoth Silica =.5 Mil/Gal = 18 Mil Root Drip = 1 Mil/Gal = 36 Mil Cal Mag = .5 Mil/Gal = 18Mil FloraMicro = 4.2 Mil/Gal = 151 Mil FloraGrow = 3.8 Mil/Gal = 137 Mil FloraBloom = 3.0 Mil/Gal = 108 Mil ORCA = .5 Mil/Gal = 18 Mil I checked my lighting My target is 300-350 for this week. I will bump it up to 400 on Week 5. PPFD = 351 Tent Conditions when I opened the tent I was at 59% humidity however I had the doors open for an hour while I changed the water out and re-mixed Nutes so it was at 48 when I closed the doors but I have a Firebird controller which is set for 60 to bring it back up. Water Temp on Change out = 69.4 PPM= 514 PH= 5.93 3/12/2023 Week 4- Day 2 of Veg (Day 39 overall) Everything is going good so I decided to de-foliate some. 3/13/2023 Week 4- Day 3 of Veg (Day 40 overall) Humidity at 61% Tent Temp at 78 Water Temp at 75.3 PPM=574 PH 5.89 Happy, Happy... I topped 2 nodes on Plant #3 and 1 Node on Plant #2. Everything looks dialed in (Finally). I will be changing out the water this weekend and as long as everything looks good I will go back to only changing out the water once every two weeks. 3/14/2023 Week 4- Day 4 of Veg (Day 41 overall) Not much to report.. I defoliated a little bit today and took a couple tops off each. 3/15/2023 Week 4- Day 5 of Veg (Day 42 overall) Nothing to much to report. Took a few leaves today and a couple of Nodes topped on each of the plants. Everything seems to be dialed in for now. 3/16/2023 Week 4- Day 6 of Veg (Day 43 overall) Took a few leaves today and a couple of Nodes topped on each of the plants. 3/17/2023 Week 4- Day 7 of Veg (Day 44 overall) Last Day of Week 4. Water change tomorrow and it looks like I will be back to only having to chance the water every 2 weeks. Here are the end of the week Conditions. #2 10 1/2 Tall 20 Wide #3 11 Tall 21 Wide Water Temp= 74.8 Tent Temp= 78.3 Humidity = 61 PPM = 586 PH 5.80

47.nap A elkezdtem finomat adni nekik Hesi tnt 10ml 10l víz Hesi supervit 2csep 10l víz Plagorn alga bloom 2.5ml 10l víz Ph 5.8 Mint este esövizzel premezem őket imádják! Ezek a tápok hihetetlenül működnek kis mértékben is! 2hetente fogom 0.7ml növelti a tápanyagokat Holnap kapnak neem olajat permetezve 2ml 0.5l víz

เมื่อมีกิ่งแตกออกเพิ่มมากขึ้น ลำต้นเริ่มมีความสูงเพิ่มขึ้น เมื่อเร็วๆนี้ฉันได้พบกับผู้มีความรู้ในด้านพันธุ์กัญชาได่บอกกับฉันว่า ต้นกัญชาของฉัน มีชื่อสายพันธุ์ว่า ฝอยทอง When more branches break out The trunk began to increase in height. I recently met a cannabis expert who told me that my cannabis plant The species name is Foi Thong.

This week, I started using Plagron Green Sensation. Independently of that, the plant began to show slight deficiency symptoms in its foliage. The leaves became increasingly pale, and the tips started to discolor. As far as I understand, one of the components of Green Sensation is potassium. Since then, the plants have been doing significantly better. Growth has also increased considerably. However, the pre-flowering phase is still progressing slowly.Runtz has been an amazing genetic so far. The leaves look absolutely fantastic—healthy and large.Currently, the plant has reached a height of 75 cm, which is quite a lot by my standards, despite the high PPFD values of 600-700 µmol.

Ladies still drink a lot of water, 3,4 L every 48 hours. Main cola flowers are getting big, side colas less but still 2 weeks to go so hopefully they will continue. The lady in the front, plant and buds have another aspect then the other 2. All of them are cherry cola. Also had some issues with her during veg phase and she began flowering earlier.

10 jour de séchage a 18c et 60% humidité pour conservé les arôme. Vraiment pas le yield au quel je m'attendais mais la qualité est la ! Plante très facile a cultiver et très jolie.ses teinte de pourpre , violette et verte lui donne un look assez unique .La couleur rouge est plus présente et vif depuis qu'elles sont sec Les têtes sécher son un peut flufy et la génétique a tendance a faire des foxtailing durant la pousse . Des arôme un peut raisin un peut bais additionner d'un léger terreux. j'aurai préférer un peut plus moufette mais délicieux tout de même.

Watching her closely, she’s getting there but isn’t quite ready. Tried a bud off her and she’s already pretty potent. I am waiting 10-14 more days I think... maybe longer depending on trich’s. Hoping to get a little more amber and a little more swelling to the buds. I had to put a trellis net in to help support the buds, some were getting close to snapping. My favorite bud is on the top right, she’s weighing that branch down nicely. I’m excited to see how this plant finishes up.

Hola a todo el mundo!!!. Esta semana solo regué con agua, ya que he visto las hojas no muy bien. Y mañana ya comienzo con el lavado de raíces. Espero ansioso el corte🤪🤪🤪😅😅😅 Hoy 22/10/25 es el dia 70, mañana comenzare el lavado de raiz.

dear beautiful old Lady... ... your time has come...

Coming down in the next few days. Gonna put them in 48hrs of light.

So I transfered them today a little ahead of time but nothing wrong with that! Roots looked amazing! Added dynomyco into medium on final pots and watered 500ml of solution!

The plants are growing nicely! They were all flushed with plain pH balanced water on Friday and will be fed nutrients listed above on: 5/31

D42 - The beginning of the second week of flower, and all I did was tighten the LST wires. D43 - I opened the tent today and realized I forgot to fill up the humidifier last night. The RH in the tent was only 29%. Oops! I gave the girl about one liter of compost tea that I started brewing yesterday. D47 - A couple of days ago, I discovered thrips in my other tent, so I sprayed those plants with a chili tincture. Fortunately, I haven't seen any signs of thrips in this tent, but you can never be too careful with those little buggers. However, since this girl is in flower I couldn't spray her. I ordered some predatory mites, and today, they arrived, and I put them into the tents. D48 -The last day of the second week of flower. Not much to report as she is just doing her thing and fattening up the buds.

6/14 - It's the beginning of week 3 and one of my two Wonder Woman plants are suffering from Zinc deficiency. I noticed this Thursday and believe this is a root issue and not a pH issue. They have most likely outgrown these little 4 inch nursery pots and used up all the nutrients in the soil. I'm about a week late in transplanting them as is. I was going to do it last week, but my schedule got thrown off. I knew I would have to leave them in a bit longer so I gave them a very light feeding last week as I was afraid to burn them. However, it turns out for this one, it most likely wasn't enough. I will be transplanting them into 1 gal pots tomorrow with brand new Roots Organic original soil amended with Roots Organics Uprising Foundation. That should take care of any issues. 6/15 - Transplanted both Wonder Womans into 1 gallon pots. I started with Roots Organics Original soil then added some Oregonism XL to the root ball and a good amount inside of the hole before planting. Then, I top dressed all with some Uprising Foundation also by Roots Organics. . For gnat prevention, I used Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis) aka mosquito bits. I also added some Uprising Grow, as a dry amendment to the one plant that were showing deficiencies for a little extra boost going forward. Finally, I watered everyone with compost tea that I brewed for 18 hrs. They are already looking stronger and healthier.

Start of Week 2 day 2 of flower!! These girls are stretching and starting to stack bud sites. My little sour diesel is doing her best to reach that canopy with the others, she aint showing alot of sites at the moment but im hoping after stretch and defoliation I can get more to pop. I decided to upgrade my light and now have a SE4500 450w on the way. From what I had researched Id like to be getting 1000ppfd in the center and then around 600-700 on edges I picked up some stashblend and real growers recharge and added it to my water as a compost tea today and will be implementing that in the watering per the plant needs . My biggest fear doing organics is getting behind on the food for these girls. I plan to top dress with worm castings, gaia green all purpose 4-4-4 and power bloom 2-8-4 every 3 weeks during flower, and then about the 4 week of flower I will be using more power bloom than all purpose to avoid too much nitrogen. My biggest thing I been going back and forth on is when to defoliate. I dont wanna start removing abunch of leaves and force my plant to recover during the stretch rather than making bud sites. I figure once it is done stretching completely I am going to lollipop and remove all branches/larf and leaves under the canopy. feel free to comment, provide tips, suggestions im open to all as im still new and learning Thanks for looking and happy growing!!

Muy buenas, os presento mi cultivo de sweet chesee☺️ Nacidas el dia 2 en tierra salieron del gyfi Las hemos preparado una tierra especial Hecha de una capa de piedra otra capa de tierra arcillosa, mezclada con abono de vaca natural Tambien le emos metido una capa mezclada con tierra de perlita y tierra de coco consiguendo asi una tierra perfecta en nutrientes y en la que oas raices de nuestras plantas a crecer sanas fuertes y sin problemas

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Another breezy week however, we had some hot weather here, temps were up to 34°c in the room for a day or so which caused a bit of tip burn. When plants are forced to transpire more in a high VPD scenario, one should reduce the EC of the water by 10-20%, this helps the plant take water easier through osmosis without taking up more nutrients than it needs, unfortunately as I spent most of last week high and didn’t notice it until the second day. Will start to post more pictures every week now they’re looking a bit more interesting 😁 EC is currently at 1.4 due to hot weather, and I’ve noticed when it hovers around 1.6, the EC drifts up to 1.7-1.8 after 3-4 days so thought it was best to cut it back a little. UVB during lights on will soon be introduced, possibly at the start of week 15. Thanks for stopping by!