I started picking for forbidden fruits the day after last week’s post, checking the colas with the scope and only picking tops that were approx 10-20% amber. As I snipped colas I also removed a lot of upper fan leaves, this is to allow light to reach lower buds for a final ripening. Once picked, I placed approx 100g in each brown paper bag, folded the top and sat on a rack. I slowly rolled the bags around once or twice a day just so the buds didn’t stick together. Seems to have worked well, no dreaded hay smell to note and nicely dried. I think I’ll be taking some more colas tops off in a few days time and I’ll keep the plants alive for another week or two, depending on how fast they come along. I have 4 Mimosa EVO (no diary) about 7 weeks into veg at the moment and I think it would be nice to give them another 2 weeks as I need big plants to make clones from them, ready for the next diary coming soon... hopefully with successfully taken clones 😊

Week6 of bloom, feeding Cal-mag+Floranova Bloom, both at 1tsp/gal. Each plant receives a glug or two from a 1gallon mixture. Runoff is removed. New Clones of different phenos have entered the arena! Happy growing!

Week 5 purple showing , 2 slight differences in the structures on each plant . Had both these phenotypes before

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Hey! At last the day of the harvest arrived. Before that, I stopped watering the plant 4 days ago, and turned off the lights 2 days ago. As for questionable techniques, I adhere to the principle - if it doesn’t get worse, why not try?😄 So, I put the harvested crop in a dark ventilated box, for about 10 days, I will observe. p.s. I invite everyone to the next update of the diary - I will sum up, remember the interesting moments of the cycle, and of course I will try the finished product, see you! 😍 Glory to Ukraine! 🇺🇦

Week 3 Day 1 8/26/2023 Water Change Day!! Added: 36 gallons of Water TPS SILICA GOLD-.5mil/Gal Root Drip- 1mil/Gal CALMag- .5mil/Gal GH FLoraMicro-4.2mil/Gal GH FlroaGro-3.8mil/Gal GH FLroaBloom-3.0Mil/Gal ORCA-.5mil/Gal She continues to be my Mutant! Week 3 Day 2 8/27/2023 Topped her a little and took a little from the bottom. The PH was just a little high so I added 4mil PH down to get it to 5.86. Week 3 Day 3 8/28/2023 Topped her a little and just enjoyed her individuality. Week 3 Day 4 8/29/2023 Topped her a little, and started cleaning up the lower 1/3, I am starting with the fan leaves that are touching the clay and some of the lower, lower portion but leaving the stems for when I take clones. Week 3 Day 5 8/30/2023 The temp has been getting to 79-80 the last few days and I don't like it that high. I lowered the light to 29 inches and decreased intensity to reach the 350ppfd for the plants. By dropping the light it should also drop the temperature. I took a few bottom leaves as I start my clean up, leaving the lower stems for clone material for now. Week 3 Day 6 8/31/2023 Found out why the temp had been getting so high in my tent and my grow room, the controller for my other light for my other tent was malfunctioning and overheating. I guess this was the unknown contributing factor to the sudden increase in temp, how am I sure about this, because the light no work no more. I am working with Spider-Farmer Warranty since the light was under a year old, very sad day yesterday was to replace my SE 7000 on my breeding plant which was in week 9 of flower with a VS2000 I am thinking I am going to have to cut my losses. On a good note she looks Amazing full on Growth Spurt happening, I adjusted the PH up slightly to get it from 5.81, to 5.89. Tomorrow Measurements incoming. Week 3 Day 7 9/1/2023 She is looking Mutanty this morning! I took off some lower leaves cleaning up the bottom 1/3.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Pour cette semaine je prévoit de pratiquer comme technique spéciale le LST et juste un arrosage. Pour cela comme à mon habitude j'attend le cinquième noeud ou que je juge la plante robuste. Je profite que cette semaine qui va être relativement calme pour faire un LST appliqué et vous faire un rappel de ce qui est pour moi la meilleure technique pour arroser une autofloraison et la façon dont je pratique le LST. En suivant ces quelques simples conseils vous obtiendrez un résultat optimal tout au long de votre culture : Le cannabis est une plante qui n’aime pas recevoir un léger arrosage en continu. Il est impératif de l’arroser en grosse quantité, puis d’attendre que la terre soit bien sèche avant d’arroser à nouveau! Pour calculer la quantité d’eau nécessaire à chaque plante, suivez cette règle : Le volume d’eau à donner lors de chaque arrosage doit représenter au moins environ un quart du volume du pot !! Exemples : pour un pot d’1L, donnez 0,25L d’eau à chaque arrosage pour un pot de 4L, donnez 1L d’eau à chaque arrosage pour un pot de 12L, donnez 3L d’eau à chaque arrosage pour un pot de 30L, donnez 7,5L d’eau à chaque arrosage !etc… Pour donner un tel volume d’eau, il est souvent nécessaire d’arroser en deux (voir trois) fois, lentement et uniformément sur toute la surface. Disposez de bonnes coupelles sous les pots, celles ci se rempliront d’eau qui remontera dans le pot par capillarité en moins d’une journée. Il est également très important d’utiliser un bon terreau de qualité, avec une bonne capacité de rétention d’eau mais qui assure également un bon drainage (celui ci doit contenir de la perlite, et/ou de la coco, etc..) Il vous faut alors maintenant attendre quelques jours en sous-pesant régulièrement les pot avec vos bras. Quand ils seront redevenus très légers, vous pourrez arroser à nouveau !! En effet, comme l’eau pèse beaucoup plus lourd que la terre, un pot gorgé d’eau pèse plusieurs fois le poids d’un pot d’une plante prête à être arrosée. Avec un peu d’entraînement, vous apprendrez donc très rapidement à sous-peser vos pots pour savoir quand une plante a soif. C’est une technique à la fois très facile et très efficace, et qui peut être appliquée à toutes les plantes en pots ! En arrosant de cette façon, en général vous devrez arroser vos plantes tous les 3 à 6 jours. Pour cette semaine 3 au jour 17 ma plante fais 12 centimètres et son cinquième noeud apparaît je décide donc de pratiquer un LST sur ma plante. Pour ce j'utilise du fil de fer galvanisé que je plante directement dans le substrat en faisant attention de ne pas endommagé les racines car n'oublions pas que ce qui pousse dessus pousse aussi dessous. Jour 17 je pulvérise du une solution composé d'une cuillère à café de savon noir mou dilué dans un litre d'eau en prévention d'éventuels nuisibles. Je corrige mon LST suivant la pousse de ma plante ... Pour ma par c'est la manière dont je procède. Comme promis petit rapel de: Quand commencer à appliquer la technique LST De nombreux cultivateurs commencent la manipulation dés que les plantes possèdent entre 3 et 6 nœuds ou une paire de feuilles. Durant cette première étape de la croissance, le tronc encore flexible est pliable sans risque qu’il ne se casse, même si au fur et à mesure du développement de la plante il sera de plus en plus difficile de le plier. Nous pouvons continuer à guider la croissance des branches durant toute la culture, même durant la floraison, ce qui pour cette étape représente un grand avantage face à la taille, qui n’est pas du tout recommandé une fois que la formation des têtes commence, cela stressera en effet la plante, ce qui aura pour effet de retarder la récolte. Comment appliquer la technique de guidage LST Si nous sommes prudents, la flexibilité naturelle des fibres du cannabis permet de plier leur tronc et branches avec une relative facilitée, même durant la floraison des plantes. En utilisant une corde fine, nous pouvons accrocher la pointe de la plante à la base du pot par exemple ou à un tuteur que nous aurons planté dans le substrat. Nous plierons le tronc avec précaution et nous le fixerons avec la corde, à partir de là, nous pouvons augmenter progressivement la tension de la corde, chaque jour un peu plus, jusqu’à obtenir la position souhaitée. Soyez attentif à la réaction de la plante, essayez de ne pas appliquer trop de pression sur la corde et rappelez-vous que la flexibilité des branches peut varier d’une plante à l’autre. Pour obtenir de meilleurs résultats, il suffit de suivre quelques règles simples. Pour commencer, nous devons choisir une corde fine mais pas trop pour ne pas blesser les troncs au fur et à mesure qu’ils grandissent et qu’ils deviennent plus gros. Nous pouvons utiliser des crochets en plastique souple ou de n’importe quelle autre matière flexible pour éviter d’endommager les plantes. Spécialement en intérieur, utiliser des cordons en plastique de couleur (voir les diaries de @Silky) est très pratique pour voir facilement les accroches et faciliter le travail au milieu du réseau formés par les cordes, les tuteurs, les mailles ou les supports que nous aurons dans la culture. Bien entendu, en culture extérieure et surtout en guerilla nous ferons juste le contraire et nous utiliserons des matériaux de couleur qui n’attirent pas l’attention pour que notre jardin reste discret. Pour stresser les plantes au minimum, la mieux est de réaliser ces manipulations le soir ou juste après que les lampes en intérieur s’éteignent, ce qui leur permettra de se remettre durant la nuit. Normalement, le jour suivant nous pourrons observer comme les pointes des branches que nous avons pliées se dressent de nouveau vers le haut à la recherche d’une source de lumière. Que la force soit avec vous

Raised lights Added clip fan blowing from above Defoliation

*Opium Fem* Growing into her 5th week and looks Super Strong and loving Life! This Awesome Genetics brought to us by #DivineSeeds our others are breed by #thehumancannabiniod #AlienBloodGenetix #SmokinPlantaz #TNBNaturals #Foop 12th W/ Flower 3rd/4th/5th W/ Veg Yo!!! Thanks Again for All the Love and Support my fellow Growmies and Growmets!!! This Magnificent and Magical Lady is Growing into her 12th Week of Flower in our 48×24×60 ViparSpectra Official Club 🌿 ®️ Grow Tent and under our #Osree QB1000w and #GrowStarStore Kokokala QB1000w and our Tomatoes×3, Sunflowers×5 and The 5 Brand New and Fresh Starts are Wonderful with a Huge Hint of Fantastical Fire is my #SalamiLegF3×2 by Broski #thehumancannabiniod #DankFlowGenetics #EastCoastSeedBank #FireAlienRomulan by Broski #AlienBloodGenetix my #PabloEscobar and #Opium by Team #DivineSeeds #DivineSeedsBreedingCompany Growing under our #Growatt 600w with #FoopOrangicBioSciences and #TNBNaturals The Enhancer Co2 Despersal canister and ph'd them w/ Declorinated watering w/ TNB ph Up and Down! Totally Top Quality Topz all Around! Thanks Again #GallowGlas420 #HarleyGrower #thehumancannabiniod #AlienBloodGenetix #SmokinPlantaz #TNBNATURALS #FoopOrangicBioSciences #as420.ca #divineseeds #divineseedssquad #divineseedsbreedingcompany #BioFlux #ThrivingDesign Family's and Teams!!! Your Genetics are Merry Magnificent, Mega Marvelous and Mighty Medical! Love um!!! I really Can't stress enough how Thankful and Grateful I am of All of you and what you've Shared with Us! Means the World!!! It's definitely a Pleasure being able to Grow with these Phenomenal Grow Lights! Please Enjoy! BudBrothers4-Life! Cheers Famz!!! Much Props and Much Topz!💯🔥 #Osree #GrowStarStore #Growatt #TNBNaturals #TNBTeam #FoopOrangics #GrowYourOwn #Bliss https://instagram.com/growerschoiceofficial?igshid=1pgx0qx86038u https://www.instagram.com/alienblood_genetix_official/ https://instagram.com/as420.ca?igshid=1t8j7pcf3aw2p https://instagram.com/tnbnaturals?igshid=1brotdb4385sz https://instagram.com/divine.seeds?igshid=osxe2v7en33v https://instagram.com/fooporganicbiosciences?igshid=5bg74agl6e6s https://instagram.com/growstarstore?igshid=yz71hq8q4eeg https://instagram.com/youngufireblaze?igshid=atzh9ue6hy1d https://instagram.com/thehumancannabinoid?igshid=17k159pumklkq https://instagram.com/gallowglas420?igshid=qzzp2y5llzuj https://instagram.com/harleygrower?igshid=ndy7zh8y0k5g https://instagram.com/beardedbudbrothers?igshid=dpow775jzr5j https://instagram.com/thrivingdesign?igshid=vqhwa4k8ts9g https://instagram.com/everflux?igshid=1533qou84mpvi SmokinPlantaz YouTube channel Link: https://youtube.com/channel/UCDKJthWoS6-miAhq_lLb_-w LEDTonic YouTube channel Link: https://youtube.com/c/LEDTonic LEDTonic Lights Hints Link: https://youtu.be/XT6e_ZwLVK0

Week Nutrients The plant did not need any nutrition and water in those days. Last watering done on the 16th and next on the 23rd. The broken branch recovers well and with a light resin forming on the buds. PPFD avg 680 Avg temp 24ºC Avg RH - 55%

Rozpoczynam karmienie w cyklu woda-karmienie-woda. Będę głównie opierał nie na nawozach Plagron. Ciągle widoczne niedobory. Lampa75% , 60cm. Wydaje się ze rośliny przestają już rosnąć.

Today i just feed girls with wather with lil dose of sensizym 🔥 i like to clean the roots before i go to flower stage 😁💪✌️

I added a humidifier, set between 60 and 65% humidity. The work in the room is almost complete. On December 27, day 19, I start the Biobizz fish mix with 2ml per litre

coming soon... Harvest week..... Cut the girls down week 8 day 5. Did a quick truim and now will hang dry. Will report back on details in a week or so.

WEEK 31 March-7 April. I just finished all setup afteer transplantation and so far all is working fine. Now she is comfortable and has plenty of space. I'm very proud of my AQUALOOP homemade system, that works perfectly. I'm going to increase nutes until 1.8 / 2.0 EC and go to make her blooming in a couple of weeks. Update 09/04: I've made a big defolation and strong LST. I decided to start soon the blooming stage, maybe during the WE.

10/18/24 the pistils are coming in nice. im worried about the possible presence of mites and thrips though. will keep an eye on it

Hello everyone This second week of flowering stage, she looks good. Watered with early flowering stage nutrient. Some colas are longer than others.