Growing along quite well. Next year, bigger bags and better soil mix. Also, a little longer veg inside wouldn't hurt. Got buds starting on the three ATF's, Chemdog, Night Nurse, and one Viper Cookies. Still no signs on the big mother Lamb's Bread, which makes me wonder how big she's gonna get. Finally stopped being lazy and set up some support for them, since my training left them a little wild. Hit them again last night with neem as the little pests are back and munching away. Supposed to stay relatively dry this week, hoping the single application will last for a while. Continuing with TIger Bloom every other feeding, alternating with straight water ph around 6.

Nice growth and nothing more to add PS: hope you like my suculent 😋 , put it in the tent because the suculent flowers were dying

Week 4 (Jan 25 - Jan 31) Time to transplant! Note: Posted this a couple days early (actual transplant took place on Groundhog Day, 2 Feb) 1st time going Organic, plants starting to sag, so decided it's about time to move to a bigger container so I can have a better feel for watering and feeding. Added about 2-3 teaspoons of Wildroot Organic Concentrate Mycorrhizal Fungi to the roots and soil during transplant in hopes it'll give you them a little boost and establish a good root ball.

Hey now, was a pretty good week for the Sour D, I didn't really make any changes as far as the nutes, still at EC of 1.6, with water from my dehumidifier, then cal mag, then maxi bloom powder, then liquid kool bloom. Only real issue I had this week was on day 58 I noticed her leaning a little bit, and I went to move her pot, and she almost toppled over. It really scared the crap out of me, so that is why you now see all the wire tires wrapped around her base. Definitely something I will be more mindful of in the future. Still dealing with high temps and humidity, but my dehumidifier has been a real Beast. I will also add that when I open that tent, the smell of Diesel Fuel, and Lemons smack me in the face like a 2x4. I have never smelled anything that pungent before. I am amazed at how well my Terra bloom carbon filter is doing, although I am sure it helps I have an 8x24" inch filter and Infinity T8 exhaust running on the lowest possible setting in my tiny little tent. Really hoping for some thick and sticky flowers! Thanks for checking me out and and Blaze On....

Update - 4th July 2021 Just still flushing away. The colours that are coming out are crazy. I have edited some pics but not videos and the videos dont really pick up the colour. Its strange that it started completely green and then went darker and darker until it reached purple buds covered in trichomes. I am planning on harvesting both this plant and the purple punch today or tomorrow depending on when i can be bothered lol Tbh, its not hard because i dry trim so it's just a case of plucking off the fan leaves and hanging it in different branches.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Nicole kush ya es conocida dentro de mi carpa y en todo el mundo. una planta muy vigorosa, su aroma dulce y cítrico deleita incluso a los que no entienden el cannabis. Su sabor denso y refrescante queda grabado en la mente del experimentador. Una hermosa y transformadora planta con flores. Tendré esta joya en mi jardín en otras ocasiones.

Talk about a mission accomplished, dam you Lamby… you had me excited at one point when I thought you were an auto, but to my shock, you are a regular, you just have a long ass flowering window… at least unlike her sisters within the 4th cycle, she did not reveg she just focused on flower, the buds are bulky and firm, scent is amazing, you would mistake her for a cheese strain. I should not be disappointed by the plant’s size! Because I planted her during winter, and all outdoor or greenhouse(unless you have a GH that is climate controlled), do not grow as big as the would during spring or summer season, and due to this factor, I only got 59g of wet bud. But I have faith the other ladies will produce a higher yields. Last I smoke this strain was earlier late summer or early Autumn, and from smoking to growing now harvest, I wish I am blown out the water with this strain, it’s time to conduct that questionnaire. Or even better go to an established cannabis club, and get them to samples bud, and ask for a review.

Day 22 - No keeping this beast down! Any kind of LST thrown at her has nothing but amazing results! Time to start leaf tucking! Day 23 - Doing what I can to get those lowers as much light as they can! I saw a pistol or two. Can't wait to see her ignite into flower! Day 24 - She's filling out and that cover crop is just insane!! I have not been able to get any of my water soluble nutrients in because of the run off. Tomorrow will be the day as its been a few days since I've needed the shop vac. Day 25 - Early morning feeding. I take my pictures consistently in the evening around 8-10pm. Insane 24 hour difference! Hard to keep the leaves under control. Day 26 - Installed a trellis net for a few reasons. I like to have a baseline for later lollipopping, it'll help support later buds, and its opening lower sites up for light, giving them their final chance to not get the later cut. Day 27 - Final tuck with some pulley assistance in areas before I head out of town for a day in the morning. Moving the cover crop to not allow shadow casting. I could always chop it and give it to the soil, but im enjoying the sight. Day 28 - Had to go out of town for the night, so no picture for today. I'm sure shes happy and raging.

Time 2 switch to flower 👅💦💦💦

OK, it is bloomingtime. Everything is fine.... I hope.... but it seems so.

19.07.21 Anfang der 4 blüte Woche alles läuft soweit OK hab die Lampe heut wieder 3cm höher gehängt da einige Blatt spitzen anfangen zu verblassen denke mal das das Licht zu intensiv war, hoffe natürlich das ich die Ladys nicht über düngt habe. Hab auch die bloom dosis um 1ml/L herabgesetzt also jetzt nur noch 3ml/L anstatt maximaldosis 4ml/L. Blätter von den gegenüberliegenden buds fern halten war heut auch wieder angesagt und unterm netz halten sowieso...... 20.04.21 wie gedacht hatte meine Pflanze Licht stress glaub ich zumindest die oberen Blätter sind heller geworden aber jetzt fängt sie auch noch an ihre Zähne am Rand der Blätter hoch zu Rollen glaube das ist überdüngung Hab es mal wieder übertrieben...... 21.04.21 danke erstmal an alle die mir so schnell auf mein Hilfe gesuch geantwortet haben. Ich hab mir diesbezüglich meine Gedanken gemacht und mich entschlossen das ich den Dünger wieder runter schraube da ich ja auf gut abgestimmter Erde und nicht auf coco züchte sollte ich wohl eher weniger benutzen dessen bin ich mir jetzt bewusst geworden (hätte ich auch selbst drauf kommen können ich dussel). Die Lampe lasse ich jetzt auf 30cm Abstand da ich nicht das Gefühl habe das nach 2 Tagen 30cm das verblassen weiter fort schreitet (wird aber weiter beobachtet). Morgen ist giessen dran werde dann nur Wasser mit green sensation geben und beim nächsten giessen dann wieder mit minimal Düngung weiter machen um die Pflanzen nicht zu sehr zu stressen.... 22.04.21 hab heute gegossen und auf dünger verzichtet soweit bis auf Green sensation 1ml/L und hab nochmal drüber nachgedacht wann das Problem mit den hoch rollenden Zähnen der Blätter anfing das war nach dem letzten giessen 2tage später nach dem ich wieder sugar royal gegeben hatte hätte den wohl lieber wieder weiter unten anordnen sollen von der menge her naja ich lerne dazu Fehler müssen sein sonnst hätte ich ja nix zum lernen is ja auch langweilig...... 23.04.21 glaube die Ladys mästen sich jetzt da wo gestern noch minimale Lücken an den buds waren sind jetzt keine mehr das Wachstum is eingestellt seid 4 Tagen kam nix mehr an Höhe dazu. Ab jetzt kann sie Dann auch Figur an nehmen und ordentlich Gewicht zu legen hoffe es geht weiterhin so gut voran bis jetzt bin ich mega glücklich das es so gut klappt Ach ja und das Blätter runter schieben unters netz hab ich jetzt ein gestellt es wird einfach zu klebrig da zwischen den buds und ich will die trichom Köpfe nicht permanent berühren, nicht das ich noch irgendeine krankheit mit an schleppe oder andere Keime bzw. Beschädigungen anrichte an den Köpfen (ich desinfizieren meine Hände immer gründlich bevor ich an den Pflanzen hand anlege meistens doppelt und dreifach, hab aber trotzdem schiss man Weiss ja nie was so an Bakterien und keimen überlebt)..... 24.04.21 hab heute nix ich wiederhole NIX gemacht an den Pflanzen war einfach zu faul war sogar zu faul zwischen durch mal zu schauen was die Temps und die Feuchtigkeit so machen deshalb kann ich heute nicht viel erzählen....... 25.04.21 diese woche lief auch wieder garnicht mal so schlecht ich bin echt erstaunt darüber das die Pflanzen so gut voran schreiten drückt mir die Daumen das das so bleibt.......

In dieser Woche wollte ich eigentlich etwas weiter in die Breite. Leider wurde die Woche überschattet durch ein Missgeschick, bei dem mir eine Trieb abgebrochen ist. Den musste ich erst mal wieder flicken und habe die Erneuerung der Nährlösung verschoben, da ich die Pflanze so wenig, wie möglich bewegen wollte. Ansonsten entwickelt sie sich hervorragend. Auch die Wurzelmasse hat gewaltig zugelegt. Näheres dazu in meinen Vegi Woche 4 Video auf Youtube: https://youtu.be/1bpILLKdj7s Link zur Lampe (Mars Hydro FC3000-Evo: https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-smart-fc-3000-evo/?ref=docgreenthumb Gutscheincode für Mars Hydro (3% Rabatt): docgreenthumb

Приветствую, коллеги! 💚💛❤️ В этот раз я захотел вырастить сативадоминирующий сорт, Strawberry Cream от SumoSeeds как раз подходит: "Прямо из района Эр-Риф Марокко, эксклюзивный гибрид Goji Haze с Strawberry Haze, знаменитой фруктовой сативой от Арьена из GHS. При курении этой красотки будет замечен приятный сладковатый аромат клубники." Звучит интригующе.😏 Теперь пару слов о проращивании: обычно после замачивания в стакане воды(RO water), я проращиваю семечки во влажных ватных дисках и зип-пакете(так мне легче контролировать нужную влажность). Но при этом способе нужно следить за корнем, есть риск вростания в ватный диск, что и случилось с одной из семечек. В этом случае извлекать семечку нужно предельно аккуратно(см. видео). Видимо в следующий раз я попробую менее рискованный способ проращивания. Ах да, перед стаканом с водой я слегка подпилил семечки по острой грани маникюрной пилочкой. Итого: 23.01(вечер) поместил в стакан с водой 24.01(утро) поместил в диски 25.01(утро) появились корни 25.01(вечер) корни ≈1см. посадил в кокос 26.01(вечер) взошли На всякий случай отметим, что чуть позже взошла растишка из правой(на фото) семечки, и она же была заметно крупнее. Кокос(уже с перлитом, спасибо линейке Plagron) я зарядил слабеньким компотом(A+B-2, B52-1, CalMag - 0.5 pH5.9 ppm514), полетели! Спасибо, что заглянули, и будьте здоровы! 🙏 Продолжение следует ...😶

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The nice weather has finally returned, and it should stick around for the next few weeks. It's just in time for the last couple weeks of the ladies. ☀️☀️☀️

She's really starting to fill out at each nug site, pistil hairs are still vibrant white and an intoxicating citrus/melon smell has taken over the grow tent! Still feeding at an EC of 2 and keeping the pH around 5.5-5.8. Leaf health is good for the most part and I did add a small under canopy fan to keep air moving through the plant. Plant shows no signs of senescence at this point so let's keep it going!