RAW GROW is a tested blend of all 12 RAW Soluble plant nutrients, essential elements and supplements. This blend has been proven to be an optimal all-in-one base “Grow” horticultural fertilizer. RAW GROW is used through out the entire vegetative stage. Derived from: Plant protein hydrolysate, mono potassium phosphate, potassium sulfate, cane molasses, sodium borate, copper sulfate, iron DTPA, magnesium sulfate, manganese sulfate, zinc sulfate and azomite. Also contains non-plant food ingredients: Humic acids derived from leonardite and peat, kelp (ascophyllum nodosum), silicon dioxide derived from diatomite and yucca extract. When you overlap a copper wire to attract ions, it is called ion exchange. Copper wire is often used as a material for ion exchange because it has a high affinity for positively charged ions, such as copper, zinc, and nickel. When copper wire is overlapped or wound into a coil, it creates a surface area that attracts ions and allows them to bind to the wire or gather within the space. This process is used in various applications, such as electroplating, water treatment, chemical separation processes and cultivation. Electrolysis is a chemical process that involves passing an electric current through a liquid or solution containing ions. This process causes the ions to migrate towards the electrodes, where they undergo a chemical reaction. In the context of plant growth, electrolysis is used to increase the availability of your nutrient-rich solution that can be used to feed plants. Electrolysis and nutrient rich reservoirs work well together since your cannabis nutrients are salt based. The process involves passing an electric current through a solution of water and plant nutrients, which causes the water molecules to break down into their constituent parts, hydrogen, and oxygen. The hydrogen ions (H+) then combine with the nutrients in the solution to form a nutrient-rich substance that can be absorbed by the plant roots easier. This will only work in a nutrient rich solution as it requires the salt-based nutrients to engage. This process, known as hydrolysis, provides the plant with a continuous supply of nutrients and oxygen, which can help to increase plant growth and improve yields. By providing the plant with a more efficient method of absorbing nutrients, electrolysis can help to increase the uptake of essential elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Additionally, electrolysis can help to maintain the pH balance of the growing medium, which is essential for optimal plant growth. One of the key advantages of using electrolysis to increase plant growth is that it allows for greater control over the growing system. This is exactly why this is generally a technique reserved for advanced hydroponics growers. By adjusting the voltage and current levels, cultivators can custom control the nutrient concentration and pH level of the solution, ensuring that the plant receives the optimal amount of nutrients sitting perfectly on potential hydrogen spectrum. Carotenoids absorb light in the blue-green range of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red range. Carotenoids protect photosynthetic machinery from excess light. They deactivate singlet oxygen, which is a harmful oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids quench triplet chlorophyll, which can be harmful to photosynthesis. Carotenoids scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), which can damage cell membranes and proteins. Carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. Carotenoids provide precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones like abscisic acid (ABA) and strigolactones (SLs). Carotenoids are pigments that give fruits and vegetables their orange, red, and yellow colors. They also act as free radical scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Beta-carotene is the most common provitamin A carotenoid. It's found in orange and yellow fruits and vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, and mangos. Other carotenoids include lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin. These carotenoids have antioxidant and photoprotective properties. In plants, Vitamin A is found as carotenoids, which are pigments that give plants their color. Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin. Vitamin B plays a vital role in plant growth and development. It acts as a coenzyme in many metabolic reactions, which are the basis for plant growth and maintenance. Vitamin B helps plants metabolize nutrients, which are essential for growth and development. Vitamin B helps plants respond to biotic and abiotic stress. Vitamin B can help plants grow new roots, which can reduce transplant shock. Vitamin B can help plants grow shoots, especially slow-growing plants. Vitamin B1 Also known as thiamine diphosphate, vitamin B1 is a key component of metabolic pathways like glycolysis and the tricarboxylic acid cycle. Vitamin B3 Also known as nicotinamide or niacin, vitamin B3 is a biostimulant that can improve plant growth and yield. Vitamin B6 Vitamin B6 acts as an antioxidant and cofactor, and is involved in plant stress responses. Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a vital nutrient for plants that helps with growth and protects them from excess light. Vitamin C acts as a redox buffer, which is important for regulating photosynthesis. Vitamin C helps enzymes that regulate photosynthesis, hormone production, and regenerating antioxidants. Vitamin C is a coenzyme in the xanthophyll cycle, which converts excess energy into heat. This process helps plants protect themselves from too much light. seedlings to young plants can feed on 200-400 PPM, Teenage plants that have a maturing root zone can feed on 350-550 PPM and adults will feed 600-1000 PPM. The more you feed plants and watch them grow you'll get a feel for how much to give them. Less is more when trying to grasp this. High level of CEC in organic soil so I'm watering 5-gallon

6cm vertical growth this week but she threw out some nice side growth. Apologies for the timelapse, it starts halfway through the week and finish/start are in the middle of the week 😳

8-31-25 Apple fritter doing great 6-7 weeks out. Stacking really nice has a great smell and is super frosty.

Another few days, cut her half, ready end of the week ♥️👍

Still no changes compared to last week. The plant is holding steady, patiently biding its time before making the next move 🌱⏳.

Today is day 91 since the plants sprouted, and day 56 of the 12/12 light schedule. We're on the home stretch. Both plants #1 and #3 look good in all aspects, and are reaching the end of their lives. The hairs are mostly brown now, with most of the white pistils still on the newest growth on the buds. The trichomes are darkening nicely. I'll be stopping nutrients and switching to a flushing solution to clean out the salts that have built up in the soil. Hopefully I can cut the plants down in a week. I decided to give up on plant #4 in the other tent. The buds were clearly affected by the pollination, since I noticed them stop growing weeks ago, but the pistils turned very early. It's annoying to lose 2 of the 4 plants I grew to bullshit, but it's par for the course at this point.

Update July 30 102 °F Plants now need to be watered twice a day with 3/4 gallons. All my garden is burned except these incredibly girls, is a hard challenge. I can't understand not how much these plants survive but how they thrive instead Very hard to stay outside, very hard to take decent pics, very hard to sleep, to breath too. Closed at home I am building a dry trimming dock with a 120 microns sieve which I will then use to beat the dry trim in the Moroccan way. On Monday 27, the first day of the second heat wave, 90 ° F, the plant already begins to show signs of low heat stress and the forecasts are very bad, this could last for 2 weeks. This is a problem for me because I have planned to start stressing the plant with underwater, an impossible mission in this heat. For the same reason I'll stop to defoliate. I was forced to bend the tallest branches again for privacy reasons, this girl is fucking vigorous. From now on I will stop counting the height and the water, the first because the plant is completely folded 3/4 times and has exceeded 75 inches abundantly. The latter because I water them directly with the water hose. I will report only nutes when gived. Grasshoppers are starting their fucking job chewing leaves but I don't care, this resilient girl has tons of leaves so I'll let them to make defoliation in my place, checking only the new sprouts and for mites. Occasional mealybugs are prompted burned by my lighter, the best method!!! Still waiting for stigmas. SK is still stretching, but the branches are getting thicker and sticky, fantastic blend of hashish, musk and kush scents. Hope you enjoy the garden Happy to see U come back for updates. Cheers & Happy Growing! See ya soon

Holaa 🐴 Lets continue this Journey. Day 3 and Rose looks good. Sprouted in 4 days. Cap was a bit tight but little push and girl was ready to go. Seed worked just like seeds should work 👌 I have now 100% germination with KANNABIA seeds 😅 Added also mighty humidifier for more equal start. Raised it from ~40% to ~50%. Out temperature sensor is in tank so basicly soil/water temperature. With Medical Hopes High 🍀 Running strain: Swiss dream rose auto cbd from cannabia https://www.kannabia.com/en/cannabinoids-cannabis-seeds/swiss-dream-rose-auto-cbd

These two are looking like their gonna be different pheno types cause Grapey Walter #1 has remained short and wide af but Grapey Walter #2 is towering over all the others in height which shouldent be a problem, also Grapey Walter #1 is flowering a bit slower than the rest 👌🏻 Still looking good, starting to frost up now also added an 4” air intake and hung it up to blow air across the canopy.

Starting to form shape to get the first layer of netting, I made my own trellis using pvc pipe

Great grow from start to finish, very resilient plant and would of given her some more TLC if I was to grow her again.

It's been another easy week in the Fastbuds tent. I've spent most my energy preparing my outdoor grow space for a wild summer. At this point, there's not much I can do except water and watch my plants grow. I've added videos of other plants in relations to the mimosa cake just for visual aid. I also added a photo of my cheese auto.. it's still drying! With the Mimosa cake auto I've been taking fan leaves off slowly for weeks now. This is a very busy plant. She is also going to run later than I expected. She's on day 76 and I suspect 95 to 100 days to finish time. I'll have to keel feeding her bloom nutes for the next few weeks; her 3 gallon bucket ran out of nutrients already. Feeding schedule: water, feed, water, feed Step 1- I'll take an aeration stone and use it to remove the chlorine residual in the water... this only takes 8 - 12 hours depending on water temperature. (I'm a water treatment process operator, I have checked several times in the past with my own Cl2 meters). Step 2 - add Calmag Step 3- add bloom nutes Final step - pH the water accordingly (very important that this is final step) A TDS residual of 500 ppm equals roughly 1 E.C. (I just double it)

I have grown RQS a few times but this is my first RQS diary. The seed took 36hrs to pop and sprout in the wet paper towel. It only took another 36hrs to come fully out of the ground and loose it’s shell. I started with the lights 70cm’s from the soil which was giving a LUX💡reading of 25,000lux💡.Once the seedling 🌱 got to 5cm’s I raised the light by 5cm again to keep the distance at 70cm’s maintaining a reading of 25,000Lux💡 at the top of the seedling 🌱. On previous grows I started with the light at 80cm’s but I was getting stretching. I find if I start at 70cm’s and don’t raise the light after a day or two that the seedling 🌱 can get light burn. HUMIDITY: As you can see in photos I have milk bottle tops full of water next to the seedling. I’ve been this for a while now. I have my seedling next to a plant only a few weeks away from harvest so I need to keep the overall humidity low. I might be crazy and wasting my time but it makes sense to me. I leave these bottle tops near the seedling and over the space of a day the water evaporates off and then I refill them again with water (PH’d water). I reckon if the water is evaporating off so close to the seedling that it must be creating some extra humidity around the seedling 🌱. For the record I don’t think the earth 🌍 is flat. *I’m using RQS nutrients for this grow. I am recording the nutrients as 0.5ml as there is not a tablet option so what I mean by 0.5 is half of one tablet per 2ltrs of water. 🦍Day 3: Watered around the edges of the seedling 🌱 just to dampen the soil a bit 🦍Day 5: Dampened soil again. Looking good so far. 🦍Day 7: Gave very light watering. Happy with the height of the seedling 🌱. The light distance seems to have worked well.

My Rainbow Saltz plant has some lighter green leaves, so I gave it a dose of calcium this week, hoping they'll darken up. One of the branches wasn't keeping up, so I pruned it off. Now the shape of the plant is perfect for fitting against the wall in the tent. It's been a challenging week with the constant rain and ridiculously high humidity. Keeping things dry indoors has been a real struggle. Despite the weather, I managed to flip all my feminized photoperiod plants to flower this week. I'm hoping the switch will go smoothly, but with this humidity, it's going to be tough.

This week went pretty well, other than she stretched like crazy and I am now getting worried about running out of vertical space. I also had a few of my bottom leaves get a few brown and yellow spots on them. I did post some pics and asked a question, thank you for the responses, much appreciated! I am thinking about adding my Spyder Farmer LED 100 Watt light into the tent for the nebula auto because it is about 23 inches shorter than the sour diesel. I believe it would only raise my temp about 2 degrees, and possibly lower the humidity by one or two percent. I must say my dehumidifier has been a freaking stud, running 24X7 and not complaining. I should look into adding another unit, it has been in the mid 90's and muggy for about a week. So far I have to say I am super impressed and excited with this setup, the genetics, and with growing this wonderful plant in general. Already planning ahead to my next grow, and what I can do better. I have been enjoying myself and I really appreciate everyone who has taken the time to answer my questions! I am having a blast and am excited to see what this lady will give up in a few weeks!

3 day into week 9 still not flowering (day 59). I don't know why this is supposed to be an autoflower that I got from homegrown cannibas Co. The white widow autoflower I got from them started to flower after about 4-5 weeks but this CRITICAL MASS AUTOFLOWER doesn't seem to want to flower and I'm doing everything the same besides the LST. I will give it a little more time and hope that it's just a late bloomer and starts to flower soon fingers crossed 🤞*UPDATE* ON DAY 61, 2DAYS BEFORE WEEK 10 CMA STARTED TO SHOW SIGNS OF FLOWERING, LST CANOPY IS PRETTY MUCH EVEN AND ABSOLUTELY NO SIGNS OF OF ROOT ROT

She was looking slightly rough from whatever started to eat those few leaves but by the end of the week you can hardly tell she was even affected. It was very rainy and cloudy most of the week so I only had to water once with my cal mag/kelp solution, and she got a good amount of rain which seemed to help her growth rate despite the cloudiness. This week it going to be very sunny so should be a big week for growth.