Sprouted in 24hrs, directly into soil with the sprayer mixed light with velokelp.

Reporte de Gestión Fisiológica y Metabolómica: White Kush Feminizada Fotoperiodica de Mexicanas Seeds Company. Octava semana (Flush & Limpieza Redox) ​La unidad biológica ha entrado formalmente en su fase de cierre. Se ha inducido la transición hacia la madurez senescente mediante la degradación controlada de la clorofila en las hojas de abanico, garantizando la translocación de carbohidratos hacia las estructuras florales. La densidad de tricomas glandulares y la oxidación de los estigmas confirman que el metabolismo secundario ha completado la síntesis de cannabinoides y se encuentra en la fase de estabilización de terpenos. Yo. Estrategia de Lixiviación (Flush) y Homeostasis Celular ​Se ejecuta el protocolo de remoción de ventas acumuladas en el sustrato y en el espacio intersticial del tejido para optimizar las propiedades organolépticas finales. La solución de lavado se compone de: ​Ácido Ascórbico : 250ppm(0.25g/L. Actúa como neutralizador de ROS (Especies Reactivas de Oxígeno) y proporciona fotoprotección al aparato fotosintético remanente. ​Ácido Cítrico : 100 ppm vía radicular. Se utiliza para la quelatación de sales precipitadas (Sulfatos/Carbonatos), facilitando su drenaje definitivo. ​Silicatode potasio: Empleado exclusivamente como dosis de amortiguación (Buffer) para estabilizar el pH frente a la acidez de los ácidos orgánicos, evitando el uso de hidróxidos de potasio. ​Saponinas: 0.1gr/L. Reduce la tensión superficial para asegurar una rehidratación uniforme del sustrato. ​Polisacáridos: 0.15ml / L. Balance Iónico ​El aporte de macronutrientes se ha reducido a 0ppm nominales. Esta privación fuerza a la planta a metabolizar sus reservas internas de Nitrógeno residual, lo que reduce la dureza del humo y previene la formación de compuestos amoniacales volátiles durante el proceso de curado. ​pH de Solución: 6.06.2. EC de Entrada: 0.2 mS/cm ​Potencial Osmótico: El uso de polisacáridos previene la lisis ante el lavado de sales. III. ​Protección Redox: El Ácido Ascórbico se mantiene como cofactor en la ruta de las xantofilas para blindar los pigmentos finales. IV. Estado Fenotípico y Diagnóstico ​La estructura floral es compacta, con brácteas hinchadas y una senescencia uniforme que indica una movilización de nutrientes exitosa hacia el ápice. No se detectan bloqueos por acumulación de ventas, solo el agotamiento mineral programado. La planta se encuentra lista para el cese de riego 24-48 horas previas al corte.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

The experience was good. Easy grow and attractive plant. I wouldn't grow autos with 1212 again tho. Only if in 20/4 because I think yield was effected dramatically. Maybe not, but in going to testit next veg cycle to tell. Beautiful plant otherwise tho. Violets and purple hues.

Everything looking good still with the Cherry Strudel. Not getting any strong cherry terps yet. I've started supplementing 40ppm of magnesium from MgSo4 to try and see if it helps with the slight fading out, i was suspecting it was from the intensity of the LED, although only 300w i was getting a DLI of around 50 which is way too high. I've raised the LED slightly and applied a light top dress of the Ecothrive Soil Food Bloom. I've added a small clip fan to circulate air around the upper canopy and I've got a 5 inch RVK fan circulating air underneath the canopy.

Keine Komplikationen, alle Pflanzen sehen gesund aus und entwickeln sich gut. Der Lichtzyklus wurde über 6 Tage hinweg schrittweise reduziert, jeden Tag eine Stunde weniger Licht. Heute ist der erste Tag mit 12/12 Licht-Dunkel-Zyklus und damit der offizielle Start der Blütephase. Erste Anzeichen der Blüte sind sichtbar, Internodienabstand nimmt zu, das Wachstum verlagert sich in die Höhe. Keine Mangelerscheinungen oder Stressanzeichen. In den kommenden Tagen wird das Stretching genau beobachtet. Ab nächster Woche beginnt das Monitoring der Vorblüten.

Well she is the star of the tent. Her purple colour is amazing, her sickly sweet smell is amazing. She has not given me any problems at all during this grow. Maybe a week left and I cant wait.

Eine pflanze hab ich im Wald zurück gelassen weil überall kleine stellen mit Schimmel wahren, die zweite war ok .

Praying my girls are not all in different stages of dying 😭More to follow... 1/9/21 These girls were finally dry enough to water I weighed each post before and after watering. I am going to try weighing the pots and water when the weight is about half as dry.as I normally do. So Maybe I should water @ 3lbs heavier... somewhere between 8-9lbs 1/10 I changed the light cycle so that my "night time" is in the middle of the day for heating reason, so this morning when I woke up, after being under the lights for 18 hours I actually had growth on two plants. Gorilla Glue and my photo plant Chocoloope that is growing with the autos. They were both under the VIPARSPECTRA 2020 Pro Series P1000 LED Grow Light. The other two plants were under BLOOMSPECT Double Chips Series 1500W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum. I wish I hadn't made so many mistakes with this grow because I know there is no way to know if it is the light that made them grow better than the other two or they were just a little healthier. I don't think so because Gorilla Glue is the worst plant and she actually grew but who knows. Anyways I switched the plants around so they are under the opposite light when their day time starts and we will just have to see. PE Length 8' Height 7' Width 8.5" Dry weight 6lb 4oz Wet weight 13lb 11oz GG Length 8" Height 7" Width 8.5" Dry weight 5lb 14 oz- Wet weight 11lb NB Length 11" Height 10 " Width 10.5" Dry weight 6lb 9 oz Wet weight 12lb Choco Length " Height Width " Dry weight Wet weight 1/11/21 DAY 46S HELP if ANYONE SEES THIS .... last night I decided not to switch the plants around after all, but I did rearrange the tent because I had a plug running through door and I am still struggling to regulate the humidity and temp. I thought I still had good air circulation but apparently I did not and the plants are not happy. Gorilla Glue is not going to make it. She turned real dark green after watering her on Saturday, she had a small amount of growth Sunday but now all the leaves are laying down. I don't know if I should use Sledge hammer but after flushing a week ago letting her dry for a week and then watering Saturday I don't know if I flushed her with sledge hammer if that would finish her off or perk her back up. I weighed her and she was 4 pounds lighter than when I watered her on Saturday and still 2+ pounds lighter than when she is the driest. Some background on how I tried to kill my plants... 😭 I started this grow by watching a zillion videos with my key take away being 1-don't over water 2- don't transplant autos 3- don't feed full strength. I took it seriously, so my tiny little sprouts were put into 3 gallon pots of Fox Farm happy frog potting soil. (didn't realize this already had enough nutrients to last several weeks so I started nutrients in the 2nd week of Veg) I use Fox farm nutrients and follow their soil feeding schedule. I bought the Dirty Dozen starter kits and it did not have 2 products in that the feeding schedule but since they were not in the kit I assumed they must not be too important. They were.... Wholly Mackerel & Marine Cuisine fertilizer. I used a turkey baster to slowly drip a couple ounces of water around each plant I water just like in this picture. https://prnt.sc/wjq0gi for over a month. I didn't realize by watering like this for a month that I was making the nutrients build up just below the the root line each watering. I waited to water till the plants were very dry. Now looking back Way way to dry before watering. I am sure that is why they were not growing. I was only giving them enough to stay alive not thrive. So a little more back info Day 14 I watered the plants with plan water Day 23 after not having to water the plants for 9 days I watered them, 1/4 gallon each with week 2 schedule, with the addition of calmag+(2-0-0) @ 50% strength Day 27 they were light and needed to be watered and they had grown a little. so I gave them nutrients same as above Day 30 The plants were not quit as dry as usual but I was beginning to think I was underwatering them so I gave them 1/2 gallon of THIS IS WERE IT ALL GOES WRONG...(Actually after reviewing my grow journal just now my problems started Day 1 and was showing signs I just didn't know it and I still am not sure how to fix any of it Almost makes me think I should scrap it all and start over. These poor plants will be lucky to produce anything) Someone could seriously use my grow journal as a "everything not to do" guide. Day 35 since the plants were finally big enough to soak the pots fully. I also decided since they had used 1/2 gallon water in 3 days and they grew a ton I upped the nutrients to full strength and the calmag plus as well. This was the first time I had any runoff sadly I let the plants sit in the runoff and reabsorbed all the runoff. Day 38 Flushed each plant with with 5 gallons of tap water that had a PH of 6.4 & water temp was 62 degrees. My run off started at 4300ppm with a ph of 6.2. The PH was consistent in every plants runoff and all of them had off the chart PPMs. I brought NB down to 250ppm. Gorilla Glue and Pineapple express I brought the runoff down to 450. For some reason I decided that since my plants were probably in shock from no water and nutrients to more water and a whole lot of nutrients and I figured flushing them would reset the soil and I reasoned they would need food after not getting any from being in shock so I gave them each a half strength nutrients. I waited a full week then posted this question. Day 45 I have each plant plain water and checked the run off. The Gorilla Glue had a run off of 584ppm with a ph of 6.47 , The northern lights X had 750ppm and 6.38ph pineapple express had 1170ppm runoff so I ran a less less than an extra half gallon of water and that brought the ppm down to 706. PH was 6.3. I have a photo period that I didn't add to this dairy but has been with these plants and it is starting to show the same signs as the others they are just all in different phases of whatever I did to almost kill them. I started the next week on Friday so I will be adding pictures and a couple videos I took from today in my grow dairy tonight. I don't know what to do next.

chopped #1 on 1/21/25 started curing today 1/27/25 chopped #5 on 1/23/25 still hanging and drying. will update with weights and smoke reports and more pictures when dried and cured #1 33 grams. nice big nugs. i really like how the mainline turned out with the final product #5 32 grams smaller buds overall but the yeild is very similar. these are weights after trimming. i did a fairly heavy trim on thesr 2 plants. this diary started with 5 plants but because of my perpetual flowering set up, i have had 3 other diaries for the flowering stages of the other 3. The flowering stage of this diary are only plant #1 and plant #5

Hello y’all 👋🏼 Sorry growmies, I was stuck in trim jail and totally forgot to post an update here! We are already done✅‼️ This was an incredible run with all of you. Sadly, I can’t cure the whole harvest because we can only legally have 100g at home. So, I only dried the best buds(around 96g dry) — just the top-shelf buds from the top of the canopy. 🤤🤤🤤 I put the rest of the harvest in the freezer and then separated the trichomes using vibration and micron screens into planty of drysift for my vaporizer at least so I don’t need to dumb the rest of the harvest. It’s a shame I have to do it this way in my country, because this Banana Punch has so much more potential! Happy growing, growmies!

Another successful grow! This strain has a wonderful aroma and generous, resinous buds. This will definitely always be my go-to strain. 💪🥦

Hi guys, So this week im expecting rapid growth on all the plants, my plant still has orange spots i call it plant aids 🤣. There on 18/6 light cycle. I will be doing some lst on them to try and fill my grow space out abit. I been soaking them and turning lights down for 2 hours then turning light back up for a few hours then soaking again so on so on. My misses plant is doing better than mine thats for sure tho. Happy growing canna family 💚🍁

Haven't got the hand of the nutrient think it takes to long on my phone so I'll take a pic later when I flush out in 1 or 2 weeks hopefully I make the contest

Ende 6. Blütewoche Die Buds schwellen immer mehr. Dieser Durchgang ist nicht mein schönster ( besonders die Special Kush) aber ich denke das ich trotzdem eine schöne hochwertige Ernte haben werde und verzichte jetzt auch auf großes entgegensteuern mit irgendwelchen Nährstoffen. Ich denke wenn ich jetzt einfach so weiter fahre wie zuvor bring ich beide easy ans Ziel. :)

Defoliated the bottom 1/3rd of the plant to clear up some airflow

Purple Lemonade from fast buds comming in nice on week 1 of veg she is missing one of her first leaves so looks a little funny but growing more every day under this fold 6 from medic grow

👨‍🚀🍀❄️ 👋C'est parti, la floraison commence ce 24/09. On dirait que mon topping se transforme en FIMing. La plus part des plantes ont des nœuds supérieurs supplémentaire qui pousse mais ils ont l'air faible. Je vais voir ce que ça donne 🤔. Je fais un peu de défoliation sur les nœuds inférieur.🤔 J'ai ajouté environ 25gr de poudre BioBloom par pot de 8L soit environ 3gr/L. J'arrose chaque pot avec environ 1.5L tout les 5 jours. J'ajoute du biohenhanceur 1 fois sur 2 Intensité de la FC3000: 90% Ventilation : 2 ventilateur oscillant ( ON 12/24H) + Extracteur pouces mars hydro power : 2/10 (24h/24h) Venez me voir sur Instagram ! 🤩 https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/

Day 1 — Monday 9/15/25. Installed a timer on a 12/12 cycle finally taking this girl out of 24 hours light schedule . Because it’s day1 of flower I also gave her a full strength feed of flower nutrients which includes my new organic foop, stash, & incredible bulk . That’s 95ml per gallon of water plus 1/2 tsp of stash and 1/4 tsp of incredible bulk . She looks hungry hopefully this doesn’t overdo her . I’m thinking she still needs some “grow” nutes for these first 2 weeks atleast but I’m going to see how she responds to this strictly flower feed to make sure I haven’t overdone it . I’ve moved the clones out the tent & cleaned out the crud in the humidifier since I stopped using purified water it gets build up . That branch I tried taking back together has died ! Can’t save em all I only hate it bc it’s from the ONLY branch that regrew from that one half of my plant it’s near dead state . This 5x5 plant is only 1/2 of a plant trained to cover my tent’s entirety meaning if I had the other half I’d have a 5x10 plant . I’m I dunno how long this girls is supposed to flower for . . 8 weeks ? 10 weeks ? 12 weeks ? I’ll need to find that out to adjust my feeding and light intensity accordingly . It’s been FUN but now it’s time to get to the FUNNEST part ! The Bud! Day2 flower 9/16/25 completed our HEAVY DEFOLIATION. Got about 93% of it out of there I’d say there’s about 7% more I want to get out of there . These next 3 weeks are the last times I’ll be able to pull leaves before these too many trichomes to not glue your fingers/tools together . Shes look crazy as she always does when I strip her back but her bones are great . I broke another branch today while defoliating and trying to better spread out the canopy for coverage . I’m undecided will I scrap the clone projects as I do not feel like slapping together another make shift setup for lighting purposes and I don’t want to let them get leggy between nodes before I decide what I want to do with them . I may hate this bud and not want to grow out the clones . I may love the bud and be thanking myself I made these clones . I dunno viewers choice ! What do we do with the clones during flower??? Comment below Lights out begins at 6:50pm she stays dark for 12 hours . Humidifiers refilled shes coasting into sweet dreams . Looking online quickly it says she flowers 8-10 weeks so that doesn’t really help me gauge when to stop feeding & when to start flushing so I’ll keep looking for more definite answers . Day #3 flower 9/17 woke up to check in plant and make sure light was on. I found that one of the circulatory fans had fallen knocking down the tent camera! This particular fan is a wall Mount fan not made to be attached to a pole however through sheer tenacity & jerryrigging is there a fan with substantial circulatory capabilities in my tent for a reasonable price! Sooo I jerry- rigged it up again this morning in a slightly different manner using most of the original materials. The negative pressure in my tent with it fully sealed for the day cycle caused the fan to push on the “jerry-rigged” setup causing it to slide down about 16inhes. I’ve reinforced a stopping point just like last time but with far more girth than the last . Fingers crossed this makes it to the end of flower & remains as my circulation configuration because paying for a 4”. 6” or even 8” clip on fan is just ludicrous Happy Growing ! Give us a like