Hello People! I harvested my Honey Runtz now some days ago already, was busy with life and didnt post. yet she is drying well in my dry tent! im a bit nervous about making the dry sift soon. will be my first time sifting a whole plant! will post more once she is dry and sifted! :) Hello People! guess its time to show my first time making hash off. its my first time doing this kind of dry sift so didnt know what to expect or what to do. i did alot of research and just free balled as i felt like is right. After Harvesting and Drying i took all the sticks out, left the sugar leaves on the nugs and then put everything in the freezer for like 3 days. ordered some dry ice and did alot of preperations. like getting some big sifting screens. so first i put like 1/4 of the frozen material in a 220 micron bubble bag inside of a big bucket. threw some dry ice in and then started to shake it, so the trichomes felt off.then i collected everything from my bucket and put it in a glass jar with parchment paper (to get better out again)did this 4 times so no material got left over. after the first sifting with the bubble bag, i threw everything on these big sifting screens with 190; 160 and 73 micron. then the drumming started, i used 2 spoons to like hit/drum the screens so the trichomes get seperated by size. i felt like the screens got clogged at some point so i stopped and was like yea thats okay enough lets go to the next step, collecting everything and pressing. the first layer 190+ got discarded. layer 190-160 got saved as well as layer 73-160. everything below the last screen got destroyed by my own mistake. the tape i used to secure the parchment paper on a plank ripped and everything went flying. well i wanted to discard it anyways.. after the sifting screens i used the frenchy cannoli methode with a hot water bottle to press the trichomes to some nice hash. the results: 190-160 micron: 12,4 G 73-160 micron: 32,2 G Total: 44,6 G fully legal here :) im very happy with the results, even tho the hash is a bit green. after all it was my first time doing it like that. i feel like i need to dry it a bit more next time. so the screens aint clogged and thus i can better seperate the trichomes, maybe it is less green then. maybe next time im not using the big sifting screens but rather go for some static with a glove or a ballon.

Bonjour les Growmies, encore une fois je vous remercie de venir visiter mon journal. J ai passé ces Unicorn Sherbert 🦄🌈 @CultclassicSeeds en flo apres juste 3 semaines de croissance.Je n'ai pas trop l habitude d avoir une si petite croissance mais comme dans la tente j ai 3 pieds qui ont beaucoup plus de croissance que d habitude je me dis qu il y aura une bonne moyenne dans la tente. Les plantes en elle même sont magnifique avec de très grande feuilles d un vert profond .Elles sont toutes les deux bien marqué comme hybride Indica le stretch ça bientôt commencer.Mais je croise les doigts demain j ai ma tente XxL qui arrive Avec ma nouvelle lampe temps attendu FC E6500,💯🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥grâce à cette lumière 💡☀️je compte que mes Unicorn s ressemble a Pegasus et s Envolent en galopant 😁😁😁😁 🌈🦄24/09 Les unicorns ont galopé vers de nouvelle contrée .Et elles se sont installées dans une tente beaucoup plus grand et avec une meilleure lumière un véritable bonheur.🦄🌈. A côté des autres génétiques leur tige principale est énorme grosse comme mon pouce .C est impressionnant pour le peu de croissance qu elles ont eût 25/09 Encore une journée de passer apr s le passage en 12/12 J ai deux phénos différents les différences commencent à se marquer .Une beaucoup plus touffue que l autre donc je vais les appeler #1 et #2.La plus touffue est #2. Sinon elles ont des feuilles énormes avec un vert éclatant.

I moved the led light away from the the plants around 35cm and the plants showed progress and growth. SD2 still has lighter color but she still grew. I will switch to flower once the jelly donutz seedlings( smaller plants that are fully in the pictures) have recovered. I thank everyone for their help.

Buds are the biggest I’ve produced so far yield isn’t spectacular but I’m still learning the smell is really strong of sweet citrus & lemon smelliest strain I’ve done yet crystallised to death dripping in resin thanks to ADV nutes, loved growing this and smoking it will definitely be one to do again

She could have gone another few weeks believe it or not, but I decided to chop because I wanted something to smoke and the cluttered tent was annoying me.

With the stretch now fully completed, the plant shifted all focus toward flower production and resin development 🌸 The overall structure remained unchanged throughout the week, confirming the end of vertical growth. • Height remained around ~110 cm • Stretch finished • Bud sites developing steadily across the canopy The plant keeps its very characteristic structure, growing compact around the main stem with shorter side branches and long stacked internodal flower sites 🌿 Resin production increased noticeably this week ✨ The sugar leaves are already heavily coated and frost development is progressing quickly for this stage of flower. Light intensity remained high at: • ~950–1000 PPFD ☀️ Water demand stayed consistent: • ~4L every 2 days 💧 Feeding this week matched the Jelly Donutz schedule: • RO water + BioBizz CalMag • 1x Greenhouse Bio Enhancer, 1x Biotabs bio PK 5-8 Environmental conditions: • ~24°C temperature • 50–55% RH 🌡️ The aroma started developing more noticeably this week 👃 While still not extremely loud, the scent profile is becoming sweeter and shares similarities with the Jelly Donutz, likely due to the shared genetics. No additional training or major structural work was needed this week, allowing the plant to fully focus on flower and resin production. Overall the plant looks healthy, stable and very resinous already, with promising flower development going deeper into mid flower ?🔥

Bueno familia ya finalizamos, estas red hot cookies son una cepa bestial. La verdad que el secado muy bien 7 días en Malla y a los botes, 45% humedad y 23 grados es la temperatura ambiental que han tenido en el secado. 4 plantas que se cultivaron en un armario de 1.20 pero estos ejemplares solo ocuparon 80x80. Así que ya está cultivada esta gran variedad que es novedad este 2020, americana de la familia Cookies, la Tropicanna Cookies (Girl Scout Cookies x Tangie) con un porcentaje de thc entre los 17/25%, una bomba. Que decir de Agrobeta, lo peta 💪 en cuanto a nutrientes. Un saludo y buenos humos.

Hello everyone, my friends! this week we will do more with the rinsing of the roots, waiting for these magical nuggets to swell even more 😉🍭

Buenas noches fumetillas, abro ya mismo el diario de las green poison de sweetseeds, una variedad con una floración rápida que crecerá bajo unos Leds de la marca mars hydro. . Quitando el equipo el control básico es ph 5.8 temperatura 22/24 grados y humedad 70/80%. . La alimentación de la gama agrobeta. 0,5 ml x L Piramid , vía radicular. 0,5 ml x L Growth black line , vía radicular. 0,1 gr x L Cancerbero , vía radicular. 0,1 ml x L Tucán , vía radicular. 0.1 ml x L Flash Root , vía radicular. 0,4 ml x L Great Green , vía foliar. . Para ser la primera semana esto es todo en verdad, un saludo y buenos humos 💨💨💨

Im happy coz she happy

266 grams out of all 4 plants, roughly over half elbow. Went with grove bags. Did 5 day dry then put into totes for few days and bagged after trimmed. Sticky buds with the piney nose to it with heavy gas .

Now we've reached day 34. Our Watermelon Candy F1 Hybrid also suffers from a minimum of over fertilization, the fault of the grower from the vegetative phase but it has grown dramatically, it is the largest of all and we are sure it will become beautiful. After two weeks of flush we are starting to give fertilizers for flowering. Site Description ZAMNESIA SEEDS - WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC: BUDS BURSTING WITH FLAVOR If you've been looking for a flavorful strain with superb genetics that's effortless to cultivate, the hunt is over. Thanks to reliable F1 hybrid genetics, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic showcases the highest degree of productivity and efficiency. This strain takes everything you know and love about the original, and packages it in a plant with even greater potential. GROWING WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC Derived from Watermelon, Candy Kush, and ruderalis, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is a finely tuned medley of genetics. This cultivar is fast to flourish and reliable to grow, no matter where you choose to grow. Taking just 9–10 weeks from germination to harvest, she provides a uniform growing experience culminating in a huge haul of buds for her size. Reaching heights of 65–80cm, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic stays pretty grounded, making her perfect for smaller growing areas where space is a commodity. It also means you can fit more plants in if you have the room! Once ready to yield, growers will see a return of 400–450g/m² indoors and up to 100g/plant outdoors. Moreover, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is highly resistant to pests and disease, making it an ideal strain for newcomers and fans of low-maintenance cultivation. AROMAS, FLAVORS, AND EFFECTS OF WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC If we haven't already sold you on the power of F1 hybrid genetics, the proof is in the pudding. Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is teaming with terpenes and cannabinoids, making for a lively high coupled with huge flavors. Just one hit is all it takes to sample rich fruitiness mixed with sweet candies and a slight earthiness to back it up. And with an average THC content of 23%, the effects are euphoric at the start but settle into deep relaxation soon after. Whether you're chilling alone or with friends, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic will see you right. As for fertilizers, I'm doing a small comparison experiment to finish off the fertilizers I had at home, it's not 100% indicative, it's only on two specimens but given the stable genetics I decided to try to compare the results of Plagron Vs Aptus , both excellent brands which they will certainly produce beautiful plants which are already of excellent stable genetics. In the next few weeks the comparison will be more evident now the seedlings are still very small and just potted. So seeds of all brands, in addition to these great F1 Hybrids and the entire Zamnesia line, fertilizers and everything related to the world of cannabis, you should buy them from the best online store in the sector. www.zamnesia.io

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

This plant is finally seeing some better days, the first time using coco loco that the medium Burned the plant. She's fully recovered and I will move her to a 3 gallon and hopefully the next 4 weeks of veg is a smooth one

Aquí seguimos una semana más con la pequeña banana!! ,Selección de nuestro compañero kanijo. Todo avanza en un buen equilibrio. Anda rodeada de sativas pero no es ningún problema para ella ya que no puede competir en altura pero si en espacio. Le guiaré las ramas laterales entre los bambús de amnesia haze y bajaré un poco más la lámpara que está ubicada en su posición para que la altura de las amnesia no le resten mucha iluminación . Deciros que todo marcha según lo planeado y puedo decir que mejor de lo que esperaba. 26/3/26 Seguimos con la pequeña de la habitación,lucha por mantener su espacio entre las demás. Tiene un color verde oscuro muy bonito. Y va cojiendo su forma poco a poco aún le queda esta semana y parte de la otra estirando hasta que llegue a su punto de trabajar las flores.

• OCTOBER 3 ― 5 : 00 AM THE SEED WERE SOAKED IN " B I O R A G ". ( WHERE IT SPENT ABOUT 16 HOURS. ) • OCTOBER 3 ― 9 : 00 PM TRANSFER TO A COTTON PAD. • OCTOBER 5 ― 11 : 00 PM PLANTED IN THE SOIL. ✎ I USED DISTILLED WATER AND 3 MILLIGRAMS OF BIORAG FOR GERMINATION. ( 1 MILLIGRAM PER 100 GRAMS OF WOTER. 300 GRAMS IN TOTAL. ) TDC / PPM ― 7 " ბიორაგი • BIORAG " FACEBOOK ― https://www.facebook.com/bioorganicrevolution/ BLOG ― http://rgakhokidze.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html/

I've enjoyed a lot growing this plant, I had to deal at tje end of thr cycle with fungus gntas but she resisted without problems, each day the flowers stink more and more, amazing genetic, I would definitely like to keep on working with this genetic, it's a pleasure to smoke, I recomend you to grow her organically like I did snd you'll see!

Sie zeigt was sie kann und pump volle Wucht alle Kraft in die Blüte. Dünger wurde von Wachstumsphase auf blühphase umgestellt.

It's time someone took things to da next level' They have moved into de ground to start being real plants. One week in everything is going perfect, even de rain is soft & gentle.