The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

Jour42 defolliation Stretch 10 centimètres Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz

Fast BUDS OH YAH! excited to see these leaves growing . Going to teke it easy with her for the next few weeks. Day 10- Had to get a humidifier because my RH is to low. Leafs are dry but she's looking healthy to me! Day 12- Growth is on pace and she's looking happy with her new humidifier . RH is up to 45% and temp is at a constant 80F . Life is good for this young one. Day 13- Notice the leaves on the third node growing are misshaped on this one. interesting.

Harvest day 62 since time switch to 12 / 12 h Hey guys :-) Finally it's time 💚 The lady is done the large leaves have been removed and hung upside down to dry in the dark drying room. You can now stay there for 13-15 days at a temperature of 16-18 degrees and 55-59% humidity. After 13-15 days it is neatly trimmed by hand and placed in jars with boveda packs 62. After 4 weeks Boveda 58% come in and are ready for testing ;-). After everything has been cut cleanly, the last update comes with the smoke report and the finished pictures. Let's get to the plant 💚. Unfortunately, the rating system at Growdiaries is a bit strange because I have to give the stars before the Smoke Report and in the end it might have led to more stars in terms of taste. . The smell is great I'm curious about the taste 💚 Have fun and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 http://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/ affiliate/madelngermany_passiongrower/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

02/26/2022 Just enoying the smell, pollination was successful! On #6 seeds forming nicely 🙏🏻 Also some weird stretching I'm top buds from accidentally leaving light's on a couple days. But should be good. looks like my efforts to pollinate one branch didn't do so well plenty of seeds to grow out now lower buds look clean of pollen no sign of pollination. Should start adding weight in next two weeks.

This girl is doing well nice side branches before fiming but find her any way hitting her with the Shogun line up put a vid up of e.c and pH of feed i don't check often as it's always the same roughly just in flower i switch the calmag and silicon for a boost and a pk she's healthy and happy not much to say as she's all good thanks for reading happy growing guys

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

Switched to 12/12 Defoiled them every 2 days...slightly, just to stop all shadings Mixed in some flowering nutes mid week Got an really even canopy...LST did a good job...light seems to be used very efficient now

Super strong strain, large yields and production without much investment or maintenance, really happy with her, she turned out to develop 15% thc, having low consumption lights im more than satisfied

Day 106, Flower Day 50. Looked at Trichomes this morning. GSC still showing some glassy/milky look. Bubba is pretty milky colored. Still needs at least a week. Went on vacation last week. Had somebody else water. They closed the door, so not as good air circulation. Bubba showed powdery mildew. Not yet severe, so I took the plant outside, trimmed off some fan leaves that showed mildew. Then I sprayed the entire plant with a 25% milk solution (whole milk) and let it dry. Back in the tent. Cranked up the inline fans and added a small fan to the Bubba tent. Just need a couple more weeks.

Ok just finnished a blunt of this a out an hour ago, and I do not smoke blunts lol But it seems only right too do a real smoked reveiw , So the fbt7 has been dry now for about 2 weeks and in a jar and today was the day too take the first bud too try so I rolled a fat one " fat one in photos lol , So for me the flavour just isn't there yet and am hoping that will come after a cure , So I smoked this all too my self and qiukly , Within a few minutes I went white as a ghost as was twitching the the corner hehehe, This is very strong bud and I would go as far as saying it's probably the strongest bud I've had in years , I am what I would describe as a joker smoker , as I turn my bud into oils and do not smoke it , But any serious cannabis smoker will absolutely love this strain , Well done fast buds and thank you :)

The demo clips show how the nutrient and air supply are being delivered to the root zone. After the flooding of the root zone to the top of the container, the pump turns "off" and the nutrient solution simply drains back down the supply pipe and out of the pump intake, which in effect, has now has become the outlet :)

end week 8. ------------ this week only water from all Gorillas the buds look very sticky and frosty. when I open the tent, it smells very strong. The 1 and 2 smelled pretty strong, chemically, the 3. more like citrus. I will harvest Gorilla 1 20.10. Gorilla 2 22.10 Gorilla 3 23.10 I made videos and pictures of the trichomes.

Everything is going very well, for an entire week I directed the branches in the scrognet with tucking and rope ties. Today and yesterday I was not at home to do any tucking so at the end of the timelapse an clear explosion is visible haha. Im really happy with the spread of the scrog so far.

The plant have a problem with sciaridi.

8/21/24. Going into week 8 flower Are we there yet? Haha.. no. Day 57 out of stated 70. 13 days? Hmmm I don’t know. I thought she might go longer than that, BUT now I think it’ll be less. I suspect another week and she’ll be ready. Appearance wise, I’d say she’s pretty much there.. trichomes say other wise. Still quite a bit of clear with the start of milky coming. It’s all gonna be about ripening now. Water/fed her today. She’s yellowing heavily or I would have already stopped. I’m guessing this is just her type of fade. No real colors going other than yellow. Maybe that’s because she’s a banana 😄 I increased the light to 80% a couple days ago just to be a pushy bitch. I’ll decrease it way down to probably about 40-50% in a few days because I like to do that when they’re finishing up to help bring temperature down and I think it makes them wrap it up. These pictures don’t do justice to the fatness of these buds. They’re obese and not ashamed. Body positivity with this girl. Somehow some of the buds have suicided. Aka jumped out of their spot in the trellis and tried to hit the floor. I can’t do anything about it really. Can’t reach them and can’t be bothered. Smell? Skunky rotten fruity…idk. And coffee? You can smell it through the place and maybe at the neighbors LOL Wellp. Waiting game now. See yuh next time ✌️

Growing these ladies was great and super easy. I ran into a problem early on from not using the correct PH when watering and they bounced back nicely. Seed to harvest in 10 weeks probably could have went another week.

01/12/22 irrigated 1 gallon water PH 5.85 TDS 403 gave 2 quarts recharge. 01/13/22 irrigated 1 gallon water PH 6.04 TDS 403. Topped 4 more spots. Growth has picked right back up after the PH mishaps. 01/14/22 re-potted to #5 nursery pot. Set up watering system. Now irrigating itself 1 time per day @ 50 gallons. Set PH 6.03 TDS 520. 01/15/22 adjusted TDS to 499 PH 6.0 Currently have 16 tops 01/16/22 PH 6.03 TDS 505 01/17/22 PH 5.93 TDS 520 01/18/22 PH 5.95 TDS 499 topped 4 more spots.

FBA2502 Plants 1-6 Week 7 May 11– 17 FLOWER 3 Nutrients : Micro 25 ml Gro 10 ml Bloom 30ml CalMag 30 ml Recharge 10ml Green sensation 16.5ml Power buds 7.5 ml 5/11 PH 6.56, PPM 1560, temp 69 2ltr each 5/12 PH 6.31, PPM 1120, temp 68 1 ltr each 5/14 PH 6.66, PPM 1280, temp 70 1 ltr each 5/15 PH 6.66, PPM 850, temp 72 1 ltr each 5/11 Defoliation, feed, pics & videos I made 4 gallons, used 3 to water then poured the runoff back into the rest in the bucket. The next feeding, I added a gallon of tap water to residual and ph to 6,31 temp 69 & PPm 1120. Did the same on 5/14 and 15 using up the remainder of the feed solution. I must monitor and control the tent environment manually. For the past month, the humidifier has been an issue putting out way too much humidity; often leaving water in the bottom of the tent. In addition, the temperatures are also out of control. I added an AC last week to keep the temperature below 80. I finally determined the exhaust vent is also broken and has been for some time. I have been giving good reviews on the AC infinity system. However, during the time I’ve owned this tent (2 yrs), I had to replace the lights twice, fans, humidifier and now the vent twice also. Everything but the tent containment has been replaced. AC infinity does stand by their products, but they are in California, and it takes at least 2 weeks to receive the replacement. This is extremely frustrating at the critical transition to flower for my equipment to fail again. For the time being until a replacement arrives, I pulled the 4” exhaust vent from my 3x3 and hooked it up. I have the AC pushing air in and the exhaust pulling air out. This should create a neutral pressure tent environment-neither positive nor negative. I do have 3 circulating fans in the tent to move air around the plants. It looks like growth spurts have slowed and plant height has been reached. Now is the time for buds to fatten and frost up. All of them (6) are short remaining less than 3 ft. They range from 15 to 31 inches. The tallest #4 &5 and #6 have very light leaves and appear nutrient deficient compared to the shorter phenotypes. Pictures taken later in the week show fading on a few the older leaves. All are receiving the same solution and are in the same soil blend. Moving the gals in and out of the tent for their glamor shots, I bent one limb and snapped another. The bent one I taped with a splint and the snapped one I medicated manuka honey and wired it back to the main stalk. Leaves look like sativa leaning. I hope FBA2502-2 is a good daytime. I’m getting excited to see what develops in the next month or so. News Break: I’ve been informed that 2502 is FastBuds New Frostbanger and is indica for nighttime. I’m disappointed that I didn’t get a sativa to test because I really need a daytime strain. The 2 Blue Cheese plants I just grew are also nighttime. Upon opening the tent, a faint odor was detected, and some stickiness was observed during the process of defoliation. Pictures of the puffy buds even show differences. #4 &5 buds hairs are different from the others being crinklier and the others are straighter. Some like #2 &5 are showing frost on the leaves. Wow at the beginning of flower to have that much frost. They are living up to the new strain’s name. I’ve noticed that when I water, sometimes water shoots out of the side holes I the air pots. I will pack the soil firmly into the sides for future runs. Measurements: #1 15” #2 20” #3 17” #4 30” #5 31” #6 24” Your likes and comments are appreciated. Thanks for stopping by. Growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

Week 16 (Harvest) 1-2 Drying day 1 Temperature: 24.5 to 19.5 degrees Humidity: 65% to 50% The girls are ready to be harvested! Before chopping them down, i took a lot of pictures. I was able to remove most of the soil from the Biscotti #2 to see the rootball. I hang the plants as a whole to have a slow dry. The exhaust fan is on setting 4. 2-2 Drying day 2 Temperature: 19.1 to 17.5 degrees Humidity: 62% to 57% I changed the exhaust fan to setting 2 because setting 4 was a bit high in my opinion. 3-2 Drying day 3 Temperature: 19.9 to 18 degrees Humidity: 62% to 59% Today i checked up on the drying plants, and i see there are some buds touching other buds, so i chopped the plants in half. The buds are still to the main stem for a slow dry, but are hanging more spreaded out to prevent any budrot issues. I changed the exhaust fan to setting 1, as someone told me that it was enough air movement for drying. 4-2 Drying day 4 Temperature: 19.8 to 18.5 degrees Humidity: 62% to 59% 5-2 Drying day 5 Temperature: 19.9 to 18.8 degrees Humidity: 62% to 59% Today i checked on the drying plants and the buds are shrinking a bit, they are getting a little bit crispy on the outside aswell, I hope they wont dry as fast, and i aim for a 12/14 day dry. For the next grow i already germinated 2x Chemdog (GreenHouseSeeds) 2x Gorilla Kush (GanjaFarmerSeeds) and 1x Deep Candy CBD (GreenHouseSeeds) And I have some upgrades planned aswell! I bought a autopot kit with 4 15L pots, this way the plants will have water and air 24/7 whenever they need it. I have seen alot of great results using autopots so i am very exited to try it out! And I bought a small camera so i can shoot some weekly timelapses! Feel free to Follow me if you like to get notified for the upcoming diaries! Thanks for checking out this diary, peace! (More harvest updates coming in the next couple of days!) Huge thank you to Zamnesia for the seeds, and Plagron for the collection of nutrients, and the opportunity to participate in the POWERBUDS contest! It was a fun and learningful adventure!