Permant marker the one seedling I could not be more happy with. It has a distinct different look to it than any other plant in the tent with strong growth going on. I'm sad about the other seedling thou the 1st set of leaves were kinda deformed and it has like a spiral thing going on where new growth comes from. Hopefully it comes back around, I always like seeing atleast 2 phenos of a strain I feel it gives you a better idea of what a strain is. It's looking like a good start to a week the plants are strong they are getting to the point I can let the dried dry out completely. I'm thinking by the end of this week the plants will be starting to be sold. Last week I put all the plants into my bigger 2x4 tent with my medicgrow mini sun 2 the 500w version. Only a few of the plants were ready for that light. Seems like the only plants that really have good resistance and have a strong start are the weedseedsexpress.com seeds. Shout out to weedseedsexpress.com for the strong plants. I ended up putting all the plants back into my 2x2 tent with the 55w amazon light it has alot more blue light in its spectrum. It's kinda weird b4 I switched the plants to the 2x4 tent they were getting 220umol under my amazon 55w led then when I put them under the 500w light 25% strength about 50in from plants and they were getting only about 195umol in that tent but it was stressing most the plants. I assume a larger light has more side lighting hitting the plants. I think when useing larger lights it's good to measure umols from the top but also coming from the sides. I think durring seedling stage they only need about 50% the umols coming from the side the plants as the top is receiving. When I put the plants back in the small tent about the same umols as they were getting b4 the switch and they were still a little stressed. So for a few days I put the small light at the top the tent giving them 100umols for a few hrs then 130umols the rest the day.

Day 22-28 / Week 4 This week I had to give them more space and topped them to make use of the space. The I had to reduce the dry intervals and increase the spraying time to match their needs. Captain slow got his problems with the feeding schedule, but I’m not going to let the others suffer for him. Hope he managed to catch up over the next 2-3 weeks, to move them to the flowering space and flip them all at once. Maybe he gets another week, if I need the time to fill up the scrog. Overall nothing special. Just the 2 week maintenance with filter cleaning and some of the nozzles got cleaned aswell, because they clog up from time to time. All 6 together are drinking about 1,5-2 litres per day. Conditions of the Grow: 💡 PPFD: 500 umol/m2/s ☀️ DLI: 32.4 mol/day 🌓 Lightcycle: 18/6 h 💨 Humidity: 55-60 % 🌡️ 🌞Daytime Temp.: 25-26 *C 🌡️ 🌙Nighttime Temp.: 21-22 *C 🌡️🌱Leaf Temperature: 23 *C 🌡️💧Water Temperature: 19-21 *C Water TDS: 800ppm | EC: 1.6 us/cm 🚰Watersource: Rainwater (TDS: 15ppm | EC: 0.03 us/cm Vegetation Equipment: 🔦 Lamp: Pro-Emit DIY-M-KIT 300W 📤Container: 2x DIY 63L Euro-Box with lid Pot: Netpot 2 inch 💦Pump: M.R.S. Standard Whisper Powerpump 8.5 bar 🚿Nozzles: 12x 0.2mm 🫧Waterfilter: 150 microns 🌬️Fan: 2x Clipfan 🌪️Duct-Fan: AC Infinity 100 mm with Controller and no Filter 🍶Nutrient Brand: Terra Aquatica 🔬Sensors: Waterstation (EC, TDS, Temp, PH, Salt), CO2, Air Temp. & Humidity (VPD), Temperature-Sensor Root Container

Sorry I'm only getting in touch now, I realized (unfortunately too late) that I still had the timer set to 12/12 from the start 😏😒 I tried to reverse it to the vegi phase after I saw that they were blooming, but the impulse was already too strong, so it's better to continue with 12/12h, so much for that I'm very excited about the result but the plants from anesia seeds are growing excellently! And it already smells abnormally cool 🤤❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥☝️👌 I wish you a nice week you!? Sorry das ich mich jetzt erst melde, ich habe festgestellt (leider zu spät) das ich die Zeitschaltuhr von Anfang an noch auf 12/12 hatte 😏😒ich habe versucht nachdem ich sah das sie blühen es in die vegi Phase umzukehren aber der Impuls war schon zu stark, deswegen lieber weiter machen mit 12/12h, soviel dazu ich bin sehr gespannt aufs Ergebnis aber die Pflanzen von anesia seeds wachsen hervorragend!Und es riecht jetzt schon abnormal geil 🤤❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥☝️👌 schöne Woche wünsche ich euch!

So Ms. Divine OG is thriving she is very healthy and strong 💪 started flowering stage and introduced flowering nutrients! Cant wait to see her development!

Perfect

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Tag 53: Sie sehen zwar nicht gut aus, riechen aber gut.

Gets the tent for herself now 🤭 Starts to foxtail but I react in time, the UV light was to low.

!!!!elle a tout pour plaire jusqu’à présent.

Day 30: Let grow, no water no feed. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 53º PPFD: 700 VPD: .67 kPa Day 31: Do-Si-Dos Auto looking really good. Great node spacing and structure. Excited to see how she stretches in the coming weeks. Fed 4ml FloraMicro, 4ml FloraGro, 6ml FloraBloom, 2ml CALiMAGic, 1ml RapidStart, 2.5ml ArmorSi, 1ml Floralicious Plus, 1ml Liquid KoolBloom and 5ml FloraNectar. Solution Temp 70º PH: 5.8 PPM: 950 Tent Temp: 77º RH: 52% PPFD: 750 VPD: .66kPa Day 32: Same as she ever was... on fire. Doing well today. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 51% PPFD: 800 VPD: .67kPa Day 33: Let grow, no water no feed. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 52% PPFD: 750 VPD: .67kPa Day 34: Do-Si-Dos received a slight hair cut. Just removed some small bud sites from the bottom and a few fan leaves. Watered .5gl RO water PH: 6.1 Tent Temp: 75º RH: 55% PPFD: 750-800 VPD: .58 kPa Day 35: Looking healthy and happy. Starting to get a slight skunky smell in the tent. Tent Temp: 75º RH: 55% PPFD: 750-800 VPD: .58 kPa Day 36: Ready for feed again. Cutting out FloraMicro on this feed, Cosmo and + Speed(s) showing slight signs of nitrogen toxicity. Fed 4ml FloraGro, 6ml FloraBloom, 2mg CALiMAGic, 1ml Floralicious Plus, 2.5ml Armor Si, 1ml RapidStart, 1ml Liquid KoolBloom and 10ml FloraNectar PH: 6.1 Solution Temp: 71º PPM: 925 Tent Temp: 76º RH: 52% PPFD: 750-800 VPD: .67 kPa

Hi all!!🤗👊 Week 3 flower Very Nice buds not very frosty but look good! In coco With perlite 80/20 Systeme auto pot 7gallons Remo nutrients 600w hps

Last week I started with a 3cm spacer, the 3 top head's grew 9cm apart (3rd head bit shorter). This week I'm starting with a 12cm spacer, nearly all branches now have spacers on (bending them) This will now naturally occur bending this wil reduce vertical growth and expose more of the plants surface to maximum light, gaining more tops😁 The other 11Roses has also now got a 10cm spacer inbetween her 2 head's. I have topped all 4 longer head's I'm trying to train these two 11 Roses to be my new mum's(for cloning)...... Any tips anyone has would be greatly appreciated😁

Hello everyone. It has been an exciting week for the Outlawz Grow. We've added a new light (MARS HYDRO TS600) to the setup. What have we made this week? Well, nothing at all, only gave them 1L of water every 48hours (NO FEED) and added the scrog once again so it has more airflow. Different phenos which has made this grow a funny and knowledgeable journey, loved to grow this ones and I am looking forward to taste them 😎. I'll harvest both of them in the beginning of the next week. More info soon, stay tuned!! Thank you everyone, OutlawzExotics.

Week 5 begins! Plants looks good, the blueberry didn't dry up as much this week, but she's still the hungriest of the bunch. Both OG Kush plants stepped up their consumption, the pots were much lighter than the last 4 weeks come feed time.

Bud sites forming fast, awesome node spacing on a few in particular....their size is pretty close to what i was anticipating for stretch, I may do a medium defoliation once more before letting them just do their thing, i really hate stressing them much beyond 3 weeks of flower...

You can find tbe first week of all girls on my profile, second week is missing coz its just boring and now i start week 3 so its day 15 today from placing seeds to germination. Uploaded a video of their habitat, i still wont name each one indifidually coz i still didnt choose winners / keepers. Unfortunatelly i have a bit low RH for this stage of growth but they obviously dont mind, i spray them twice a day, no burns from spraying with lights on, no electroshocks caused by spraying so all good now. I tried it all enough to be able to say i cant be assed anymore :D Since @growdiaries are not keen on resolving a problem with uploading each pic individually on androids, i will keep one diary for all girls, dont even mind not being able to compete in dom. Stay tuned these girls will rock.

Gros Bud souche stable, je vous conseille de la cultiver.

🍼Greenhouse Feeding BioGrow, Bio Enhancer & BioBloom ⛺️MARSHYDRO The ⛺️ has a small door 🚪 on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ MARSHYDRO FC 3000 LED 300W ☀️Also special thanks to VIPERSPECTRA P2000 (200W) & XS2000(240w) LED growlights 🌱GANJA FARMERS