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@bcuzZ
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- upped light intensity to ca. 600 PPFD by taking of the domes of the E27 LEDs - performed LST and defoliated larger leaves that were blocking the new nodes; snapped the main stem from Forbidden Cherry #1. Damn. She survived, but so much pain. Stupid beginner mistake. She´ll recover! - Otherwise, great growth, no other issues.
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@GrowingSA
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This week has been hectic ...my gorrila breath mothers started randomly flowering ...i have no idea whats going on ....its not a auto and im pretty sure theres more than 12 hours light a day .....its January in Africa! ! So im gonna take as many cuttings as i can and pollinate them what's left over with ... amnesia zkittlez auto that my girlfriend is growing .....from 420 fast buds.....
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Had issues with my dripper system timer 🙄it reset its self twice now ! Unfortunately the EC in the coir got up to 3.6 after drying out to much before I realised. I've got it back down to 2.0 now so hopefully it won't stunt them too much .
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@Naujas
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Well, I came back after vacation, and this is what I found: it jumped up to the light.... I made a little cropping and tried to use more LST, the problem is that it no longer fits :D :D :D but at the same time, it's really interesting to me trip :)also, several rings are already affected by the light, my 50w light currently shines at 100%, maybe it would be better to reduce it to at least 80%?.
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end yield of smokeable: 73gs end yield boof: 41.5gs
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Ladies and gentlemen today's day 46 of flower, and as you can tell, she is maturing right along.. I would say, every bit of 90% has orange hairs with the trichomes are still CBG filled .. as you can tell, we have a couple weeks left to flush anyway so i'm hoping all these sparkly, little trichomes cloudy up with maybe 10% amber and then we bring out the axe .. God bless everybody and happy growing ✌️
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WEEK 5 Day 36 Gaia Green 2-8-4 (5 tbsp/plant) 40 oz am Day 38 40 oz water am Added bungees for trellis Day 40 40 oz water am minor defol Day 42 48 oz water am Stretch Complete? Lemon Cherry Cookies = 22 inches Purple Lemonade = 25+ inches Strawberry Gorilla = 29+ inches
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@Naujas
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I changed the lamp to 50 w :D because my growing box is only 0.16m. it's a really economical grow box, we'll see who gets it:) I think it would be great to reach 40 gr :)
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@darb35
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Day 29 - Starting to give first week nuts, full schedule Day 33 - Trim big fan leaves Day 34 - Lolipop and more trim They look very healthy and have a very nice texture 🌱
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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@Chupus
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I planted two seeds, one on the ground, the second on a coconut. I want to check the difference .experiment.
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Great strain...will grow again for sure! This plant was easy to grow and produced some great buds. Great strain for a low headroom grow area. I would love to grow some more Sweet Seed Auto strains 😊
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@Mohro49
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Lange war es still hier habe 3 wochen in der Nachtschicht gearbeitet da hat mir die Motivation gefehlt. Werde jetzt wieder regelmäßig updates machen. Am Sonntag den 12.3 habe ich die Damen in die Blütegeschickt. Bis jetzt läuft alles sehr gut mit Greenbuzz habe leider etwas zu spät angefangen Grow Liquid zugeben aber das nächste mal bin ich schlauer. 💚✌️
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So its come to the end of the first week and the little ones are doing great. At the start of the new week they will get their first watering and we will start a consistent schedule.
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Hola a todos! Esta semana he regado solo con top candy 2ml x litro de agua. Esta misma semana que comienza mañana, empezare a lavar raices de todas las variedades. Muchos tricomas están lechosos aunque hay algunos transparentes, pero la idea es hacer un lavado de raices progresivo, En 2 veces, ya que no les deben de quedar más de 2 semanas previo al corte✂️🙌🤩
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@raptor65
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Had to destroy one of my plants today , it was full blown male (bananas and balls )small BUT ?????, just like it came overnight , didn't notice it yesterday , hope there wasn't damage from him , look ok , moved it out immediately , fingers crossed🙏, take care all , thanks for checking in