The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Hello friends and welcome to my first report and my very first grow! 🍁 Please follow me so you don’t miss any of my other grows. Thanks buddy! 🙏🏼 And also don’t miss my introducing to see more information about me and my entire collected knowledge! (https://growdiaries.com/diaries/209900-the-best-grow-journal-by-rick-and-growty) ________________________________________ My weeks always start on a Sunday. So today I define 19.05.2024 as the first day of the 3rd week. Because I got the plants as cuttings and they already had a certain size, I can’t determine an exact age at the beginning, unlike when growing them from seeds. ________________________________________ 19.05.2024 Today is the first day of the 3rd week so I decided to plant the girls in their final 18l pots and gave them 2l water with 0.25g/l of BioEnhancer and also a pinch of Great White Premium Mycorrhizae - [to get] “Killer Roots for Killer Plants” 🦈 I will give them 2 days to recover before adding the BioGrow growth fertilizer with a concentration of 3g/l pot volume.
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Hey yall! Another week down. A lot has happened. To start, we up-potted from the red solos into my living soil blend that I have been working on for almost a year. It's so full on living creatures and beneficials. I used to have fungus gnats a lot when working with living soil, it's almost impossible to avoid. .. Then enters beneficials; we have black soldier Flys, persimillis predatory mites, definitely earth worms, most likely a mix of night crawlers. No more fungus gnats, I highly recommend using beneficial nematodes, cucumeris and persimillis predatory mites are excellent (swirski predatory mites are expensive). Just look at the Soil Food Web and identify what pest you have, then purchase their predators from a trusted insectary. Anyways I added another 200watt LED and spread out the plants in a 2' X 4' tent. It's extremely dry in my location and having the heat on makes the air even drier. So getting my VPD stable has been an immense challenge. Right now Also we need to be able to add VPD or at least GD needs a built in calculator to help folks with VPD, Vapor Pressure Deficite. As of right now I am sitting at 0.85 VPD, so pretty good for today. I have 4 humidifiers and have had to hang moistened towels on the doors of the room I am growing in. It literally has been a huge challenge to keep the humidity high enough for my VPD to be in range for the young plants I have now. Good thing is my current humidity without running any humidifiers is perfect for the flowering stage, so I can't wait to move this along. As for topping and training; like I said I really want to move these ladies into flowering sooner than later. I have several reasons to do limited training so I can limit my veg time, also getting this crop done as fast as possible is best for my set up. Until I can get a larger house 🏠 😩 because we got a baby on the way 👶 so need to make space. I have made compost tea twice this past week, wetting the soil and also spraying the leaves. My sprayer broke so I ended up pouring the tea on the plants gently, I got worm castings on the leaves lol. Gently rubbing that off once they dried. Also I applied the tea at night. My tea recipe: Reverse Osmosis water, 2 to 4 gallons I bubble that with added minerals for a day Add 2-3 cups of Activated worm castings (To activate the castings I added about 3 gallons of high quality castings with what I consider to be nutrient amendments, SO I add = kelp meal, neem cake, organic coconut flour, organic corn meal, organic wheat flour, and organic cold milled flax seeds and let that sit for a week then add about 2 to 3 cups of that mix to the tea) I also add biology from about a cup of 2 different soil mixes I have around my compost bin, just trying to get a more diverse biology by adding those two different soil sources. And mind you the grow beds I took the soil from has been organic for many years and has a large amount of beneficials and tons of excellent biology. Other than that I bubble that for 12 to 24 hours, with as much air as I can get. I use air stones but you really need to clean them off once you are done brewing. I also have an Air Lift with a large air pump that really works great, K.I.S. Organics sells one that works great or you can build one easily with with PVC pipe and a few adapters from any Home Depot or Lowes. Also I do add DynoMyco to my roots when up-potting. They are an amazing brand that has backed up research, I think they have more propagules per gram of two strains they identified to work great with cannabis. Now having said that, each individual phenotype out of each individual and specific strain/cultivar is going to have different bacteria/fungal strains that it prefers and by growing the same strain, hopefully the same exact cut, and grow 3 to 4 cycles before you truly have the mycelium networks built and fully functional. What I am saying is stop throwing out "used" soil and go over 7 gallons, bigger the better for biodiversity. Stop buying "new" soil, amend your previous beds and pots. You will see a huge difference. Hopefully I can show you all of this with my Grow. Anyways please feel free to ask away any questions! This grow is about saving money 💰 🤑 and growing the best clean medicine as possible.
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@Pedrojuan
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Semana tranquila, en este último día se cambiará la solución nutritiva, y con la nueva probaré a meter H2O2 y ver si ayuda a mejorar la calidad del agua, ya que después de 7 días encuentro un poco de babosadas en las mangueras de aireación dentro del contenedor máster. Al paso que van creo que una grow de 1,2 x 1,2 queda chica para 4 plantas, o sea empieza a resultar incómoda para hacer controles y todo el resto. Acabo de cambiar la solución nutritiva, e notado que podría haber estado 1 semana más, pero la cambio cada 2 semanas, ya que mi maestro dice que cada semana, pero a mi me da pena desperdiciar tanta agua y nutrientes... 🙏
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@Dunk_Junk
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Getting close to the end now. I can see the trichomes turning milky.
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Now the fun begins 😁😁🔥 Ended off the week with a bang, first week on VEG nutes still getting that Route 66, with a touch of magical & sugar daddy ! Man this girl is soooo resilient I did a little bit of lollipoping as well but it’s really not worth mentioning. 10/10 recommend meph genetics . I’m literally growing “ Charizard “ via the Reddit thread (🙈🔥) doesn’t matter what stress i put her thru she trucks on. Sucks up what ever i give her and loves the abuse. 8 h of dark every Friday 😏 Thanks for stopping by and happy growing ! 🎉🔥
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I really like the colors coming out in these buds. They are getting more purple every day. Looks like they are going to stack up pretty fat too. I spread the plants out a little this week so they get better light and air flow. Other than that I haven't done anything besides keep the reservoir full. Still pumping nutrients 1 minute on 20 minutes off. They are getting .5 tsp maxibloom per gallon. Not going to run any boosters this round. They dont look like they want or need it.
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@Robbaus
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Ciao a tutti! C'è stata un'accellerata imprevista e così mi sa che raccoglierò una settimana prima del previsto! Tra 3 o 4 giorni taglio tutto! Ho svuotato completamente i vasi e ho messo solamente acqua liscia per far sì che le radici scarichino bene tutti i nutrimenti ancora presenti. Devo registrare purtroppo un piccolo problema di muffa, dovuto sicuramente all'umidificatore (purtroppo ho dovuto tenerlo acceso per tenere bassa la temperatura) in quanto si è formata sugli 8 apicali della pianta più vicina ad esso. Ho dovuto purtroppo tagliarli e buttarli via quasi per intero, ci avrò rimesso una ventina di grammi, anche 30. Post memoria per me: l'anno prossimo a luglio non devo avere niente e iniziare il ciclo a metà agosto con le temperature più accessibili. Comunque sta andando benissimo a parte l'imprevisto, non vedo l'ora di raccogliere e fumare! Ci vediamo la prossima per l'ultima settimana 🤣🤣🍀🍀💪🏼💪🏼
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@Dairon
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Hola a tod@s !! aqui estamos ya en la 7ª semana de floración y esto va a tope!!, en esta ocasión no se verán cogollos tan gordos, pues las podas fueron más intensas a fin de repartir más la producción y aprovechar el area de cultivo, después del ultimo riego con nutrientes, les toca su correspondiente lavado de raices, yo utilizo un limpiador de alta gama que ayudan mucho a limpiar de residuos y mejora el sabor, utilizo la dosis recomendada por el fabricante y riego hasta que veo salir agua por los agujeros del fondo de la maceta, en ese momento paro y dejo pasar 12 horas para que actue bien, tras estas 12 horas hago el lavado de raices con agua de osmosis a 0.0 EC y voy midiendo el agua de drenaje hasta que sale a 0.4 EC , no conviene quitarle todos los nutrientes de golpe, para ello realizare al menos dos riegos más a 6.6 PH y 0.0EC para terminar de eliminar todo, controlando la EC de salida para comprobar que en el último riego antes de cortar sale a 0.0EC, esta madura casi para corte, por lo que tendre que subir un poco la temperatura, bajar la humedad y ventiladores a tope para acortar el tiempo entre estos últimos riegos, olor agradable a frutas yo diria una mezcla entre limón y melocotón, cogollos duros y de buen tamaño, es una planta robusta y fácil de cultivar, responde muy bien a las podas y no pide mucha comida, muy recomendabe!! veremos como se da su ültima semana, saludos!!! 😊 #emeraldharvestofficialtester
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@soloczek
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Very strong MAC aromas with a fruity and sweet breath!!! Strong like perfume. Wouldn’t they be growed by myself, I would think they were sprayed 😋 Pictures can’t show the real size of this nugs
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@Eyeduno
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I killed one transplanting it, not quiet 2 weeks yet either about 9-10 days
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•Seconda settimana• Ciao ragazzi !! Dopo i primi 15 giorni di vita (totali) le piante presentano una bellissima cera, sinonimo di irrigazione e nutrimenti corretti (nonostante il PH fosse alto). Ricordo che mantenere livelli ottimali di umidità, temperatura e PH mette la pianta in condizioni perfette per poter aumentare il rendimento finale.
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@Kirsten
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19.12.24: Ok so the powdery Mildew has appeared again, I have not watered, and the plants are doing well. They seem to have recovered significantly since last week. I have scooped out the top layer of soil to get rid of the Mildew, again. I then top dressed with;- Biobizz Light Mix, cinnamon, extra perlite, Vitalink Bat guano, and worm castings. Looks like we're are entering very early pre-flower. Really hoping the final stretch will make the plants bigger, as they're still looking small. Compared to my Fat bananas 🍌 in my first grow. Watered in with 300ml per plant containing;- 1ml per litre of Biobizz Bio-Grow 1ml of Biobizz Fish Mix and 1ml of Ecothrive Flourish, 1ml of Bio Bloom, 1 Biobizz Top Max Fingers crossed 🤞 Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️
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So far so good, the light is at the end of this week at level 100% capacity They are stretching quiet nicely 👍
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@Weediz
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Day 64: It seems to go well. I am still keeping an eye on the "hanging" leaves. I think they tend to hang a little more when light on, and less with light off but its hard to say if it is normal. It might be as @GrowingGrannie mentioned, they might be under watered, as there is not much run-off at the last couple of watering's, maybe 1l each time and I will give them a 30% run-off next time to be sure UPDATE: I have noticed some more brown spots on the right plant caused by Calcium Deficiency. I think I should up the PH a bit more, going for 6.5 this time. I will also increase my CalMag supplement by 50%, and do 30% run-off today Day 66: Thank you all for the kind answers 🙏 You all have different opinions, and it is hard to pinpoint the exact problem. I am almost certain that I got some heat/light stress as mentioned by @GrowingGrannie and @Chow_13. I have therefore raised the lamp and are keeping the dimmer very low, using about 140W in total. I am still investigating if there might be other problems to it. @m0use, thank you for your answer. I do not think they are thirsty, at least not any more, as I am already on the subject for the last couple of days. About PH, It was difficult to get a good picture of the PH solution, but it was light-green to green (6.5-7.0) on the picture (And that was run-off PH) and what I put in was adjusted slowly from yellow to light-green aka 6.0-6.5 (I wrote 6.25 but it was auto adjusted) @gottagrowsometime, thank you for the answer. I do not think it is a nitrogen toxicity. My leaves aren't that dark green, although they are a bit to the dark side but not like what I see on other pictures with that problem. I also think the curling is caused by light/heat stress as I just got a new lamp and are experimenting with it. But I will keep your suggestion in the back of my head! @Chow_13, thank you very much for your answer. I think you are spot on, however I am not sure it is the only problem... It might be as you say, nutrients are not absorbed correctly due to the light-stress, but I will not put all my money on that @Nugsery and @GrowingGrannie, a big thank you for your answers. The deficiencies might not be the same, but the cure is very similar. I cannot make up who is right, but I do have a plan. I will follow your recommendation @GrowingGrannie and @Nugsery, and do a flush, but with a ph 5.8 as both nutrients should be able to be absorbed in that level. I will then give her a light nutrient mix and adding PK, also 5.8 ph. This is almost the same solution for both deficiencies. I will then slowly get the ph back to 6.2 @ernesttwwg, thank you for your answer. I have known for some time I have some Interveinal chlorosis, but I do not know what is causing it. There is multiple deficiencies giving those symptoms. The tacoing of leaves, and leaf tips curling down I think is caused by the light, and I have therefor raised the light. I will keep investigating the symptoms you mention OBS: I will not edit my nutrient schema as this is only temporarily, next watering will be as described UPDATE: After flushing with 15L~ ph 5.8~ and a small feed with 5.8~ ph I still get about 6.5~ ph in my run-off water. I am going to do another flush tomorrow to see I can bring it down to around 6.0~ ph Day 67: I think I see small improvements on the leaves. The new heat/light level seem to have done something. I did that second flush and are still getting about 6.5 ph in run-off.... I think I will let her dry for now, monitoring what happens, and do another flush in a couple of days
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@Andres
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here is in winter with cloudy days ... if she is like that it is my fault for not spending enough time on her ... she grew up in a 1 liter pot ... and one of my dogs ate all its leaves ... we will say that of a flavor and good effect .
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@pzwags420
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On day 1 I adjusted the PH from 6.6 to 6.2. The tallest cola is 13.75" away from light. On day 2 I adjusted the PH from 6.4 to 6.2. The tallest cola is 12.5" away from light. On day 3 the PH is 6.2. The tallest cola is 11.5" from the light. On day 4 I didn't take data points long day... On day 5 the rez PH is 6.2. the tallest cola is 10" from the light. On day 6 the rez PH is 6.0. The tallest cola is 9.5" from the light. I defoliated heavily to bring in more light and airflow. On day 7 The tallest cola is 9" from the light. I mixed up a new rez.
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There we go, now the diary is all sorted out and the weeks are accurate. Pistils still poppin'! Starting to get the first few brown pistils to show up on the low low plant buds. Tops are still filling out. I might as well raise the dimmer to 10. It's been on 9 about 11 inches from the tops of the plants. I dialed it back to perhaps reduce the stress from the hot dose of nutes. They burnt up pretty good but still rocking! Hopefully the next run i can keep them pretty for the full crop! haha The Nutrient mix i listed is not a feed chart regiment. I've had to dial it back a bit because of the high ppm of my tap water which caused me to give them a hot 2500ppm feed one day and they freaked out lol. So now i test my ppm and i try to keep it around 1000, to 1250ppm MAX Next crop I plan on doing some experimenting. I'm going to grow 3 strains. I want to do a diary for each strain and I'm going to experiment with some different nutrients (Remo Nutrients) and I'm going to do side by side comparisons with Hygrozyme and HygroBen, as well as Resin by Green Planet Nutrients. Next Strains will be; #1 Female Seeds "Lemon Kush" (2 plants) Clones #2 Barney's Farm "Biscotti Mintz" (3 plants) Clones #3 Expert Seeds "Oreoz" (3 plants) Clones 1 of each plant will be treated with Mykos Fungi, Hygrozyme Enzymatic root enhancer, and HygroBen which is beneficial bacteria. So we can draw a side by side comparison of each treated vs. non treated plant to see if Resin really does increase resin output, and if the plants health, vigour and growth are affected in a significant way. These plants on Oct 31, are 42 days into their flowering cycle. I expect them to finish near end of November. Nov 15 i will cut clones off my mother's and prepare for the mid winter run.
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Inhale for 13s, Exhale for 13s, Inhale for 8s, Exhale for 8s, Inhale for 5s, Exhale for 5s, Inhale for 3s, Exhale for 3s, Inhale for 1s, Exhale for 1s, Alignment. 1.618 More energy, more blueprint. A plant with both standard cellular respiration (occurring throughout the plant, including leaves and stems) and adequate root respiration will have a significantly higher ATP throughput than one restricted to only general cellular respiration in a limited way. Cellular respiration is the fundamental metabolic process that occurs in all living plant cells (roots, stems, leaves, flowers, seeds) to convert glucose into usable energy (ATP). It requires oxygen and produces carbon dioxide and water as byproducts. Root respiration is not a separate type of respiration, but rather a specific instance of cellular respiration occurring in the roots. Roots absorb oxygen from the air spaces in the soil to fuel their energy needs. Roots require a substantial amount of ATP for essential functions like nutrient and water absorption, as well as growth and maintenance of their tissues. The primary form of respiration in healthy plant roots is aerobic respiration, which is highly efficient, yielding up to 30-38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. Anaerobic Respiration (Inefficient): If roots are deprived of oxygen (e.g., in waterlogged soil), they switch to anaerobic respiration, which is far less efficient, producing only 2 ATP molecules per glucose molecule and also generating alcohol, which can be toxic and kill the plant. Therefore, a plant with healthy, oxygenated roots performing efficient aerobic respiration in addition to the rest of the plant's cellular respiration has a much greater overall ATP production and energy capacity. A soil without organic matter will generally have a low Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). Biochar is often prized for its potential to increase soil cation exchange capacity (CEC), but this effect is highly dependent on the specific properties of the biochar (feedstock and pyrolysis temperature) and the soil type to which it is applied. High-ash biochars, especially those produced at lower temperatures and applied to acidic or sandy soils, can significantly boost CEC by providing abundant binding sites for cations like calcium (Ca²⁺), magnesium (Mg²⁺), and potassium (K⁺). Biochar is more sustainable than typical organic matter for long-term soil improvement primarily due to its high stability and resistance to microbial decomposition, allowing it to persist in the soil for hundreds to thousands of years. This longevity provides a lasting positive effect on soil properties, particularly by increasing the cation exchange capacity (CEC) over time, while regular organic matter breaks down much faster. Biochar generally offers a much higher CEC than coco coir, though specific values vary greatly; while coco coir might sit around 40-60 cmol/kg, biochar can range from tens to over 200 cmol/kg, with sources like Acacia wood biochar or even coconut shell biochar often surpassing coco's capacity due to its porous structure, creating significantly more cation-binding sites for nutrients, making it superior for nutrient retention. Needs to be charged similar to coco but at a much higger rate. But shhhh.. It's a secret. Ancient biochar-rich soils in the Amazon basin (known as Terra Preta) provide evidence of carbon stability lasting over 500 to 2,000+ years. Recommend a balanced ratio of key cations, particularly calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and potassium (K). A widely accepted general "ideal soil" cation saturation ratio is approximately 65-85% Ca, 6-12% Mg, and 2-5% K. That's roughly what I give mine. Can even add N in its NH4+ form
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@deFharo
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🖐️👨‍🌾 Bienvenidos entusiastas de la marihuana clandestina y orgánica! Esta delicada sativa asiática ha cumplido 12 semanas de vida y ya comienza a mostrar las pre flores, ha completado la segunda semana en horario 12/12h con un estiramiento de 9cm... esta semana probablemente haga un cambio importante en las luces de la carpa de cultivo, en cuanto compruebe que todas las plantas están centradas en la formación de flores y paren de estirarse. Muy buena la evolución de esta semana, la planta claramente esta preparada para hacer crecer grandes flores, la masa foliar se expande y grandes ramas sobresalen orgullosas, el metabolismo está disparado, he ido aumentando la cantidad de agua de riego conforme la planta lo ha ido pidiendo, esta temporada estoy siendo más paciente y precavido con la cantidad de humedad en maceta que en otras temporadas, para intentar desarrollar las raíces lo más posible, cuando acabe los cultivos comprobaré como fue el desarrollo radicular, sólo a partir de ahora es cuando voy a inundar el sustrato con el máximo de humedad que tengo asignado para esta maceta, durante todo el cultivo hago riegos de precisión, pues peso diariamente las macetas y sólo riego cuando llego a ciertos niveles de consumo, la idea es mantener el sustrato oxigenado y lo más suelto posible durante las semanas de crecimiento vegetativo para favorecer la movilidad de las raíces. Esta semana dos riegos suaves y estimulantes, estoy preparando la planta para entrar en el gran juego de la flor, en cuanto pare el estiramiento comienzo con riegos más concentrados y específicos para la etapa de floración... sin contemplaciones! Con el último riego hice un aporte de una mezcla de enmiendas secas al sustrato, en ese mismo riego incluí melaza para dar energía extra a los Microorganismos y que comiencen a comer el aporte extra de materia orgánica. Esta temporada estoy limitando el uso de melaza en riegos, hasta ahora la usaba en todos y en cada uno de los riegos, desde el inicio hasta el final de los cultivos. pero esta temporada he usado la melaza sólo en las primeras semanas de cultivo para potenciar la proliferación de la Microbiología en el sustrato y la expansión de las raíces, y desde hace dos semanas dejé de añadir melaza cuando las plantas han tenido un volumen importante, ahora, del aporte de azúcares para dar energía a los MM se encargará la propia planta, no es que haya observado anomalías evidentes por el uso continuado de la melaza, pero no quiero influir en el sabor ni en los aromas originales de las plantas. Y mirando hacia los cultivos del 2025 y siguientes, he preparado unos litros de dos nuevos Bio Fertilizantes basados en frutas, minerales y etc., éstos los tendré en fermentación anaeróbica hasta las temporadas del 2025... hacer es comprender! HASTA LA PRÓXIMA... SALUDOS A TODOS! ================================ Info de la cepa Thai Fantasy de Kannabia seeds: https://www.kannabia.com/es/semillas-marihuana-feminizadas/thai-fantasy "Nuestros paladares occidentales se abren a nuevas dimensiones cuando nos adentramos en los universos exóticos de Tailandia o Camboya." Kannabia Seeds - Genética: Thai x Black Domina - Sativa 80%, Índica 20% - Tiempo de Floración - 58-65 días - Rendimiento en interior: 500 g/m² - THC: 18,6 % - Sabores: Dulce y terroso ================================