Settling in after transplanting loooking lush green and healthy maybe another two weeks of veg

**3RD UPDATE** looks like my work pairs off a little. My babies have grown tremendously. Day 12 and I feel pretty good about how things are going **2ND UPDATE** I ordered smart plug for my outlet where my grow tent is pulling power from. I have my lights automatically turning off for 4 hours everyday from 12-4, while is still in vegatative mode **UPDATE** so, my grow is coming along fine, but I think it could be better. I’m noticing a lot of week 2s from journals of the same strain, and mine looks either a little behind or a lot behind, depending on soil/soilless. I think my light distance has a lot to play with it. I had my light relatively high, almost 2 and a half feet above my plants. I dropped it down to about about 18 inches, as low as possible, while still covering my grow area. If anyone can provide any advice or opinions, it’d be greatly appreciated. I hope this week will be a lot of growth, fingers crossed.** So, it’s officially week 2 of my grow. I’m pretty excited! I have 3 Six Shooters growing....all 3 germinated,,,2 are growing and reaching, 1 is a little behind, though I’m not too concerned about her. They all are growing their 2nd pair of leaves, and I don’t expect much activity this week, although I will still try to update daily. I had a great Saturday, wake n bake sesh...then I took some of you guys advice and went to my local hydroponics/garden store....and realized quickly how much I was spending online vs shopping local. On top of that, I got a nice 30 minute lecture from one of the staff about everything. To my surprise, they start seedlings and small plants there too, aside from basil and your other herbs, if you know what I mean. So they have everything a gardener would need! I was told to transport gradual sizes....basically....like I’m planning to use 3 gallon pots right? But, I can’t go from my seedling container to a 3 pot gallon straight like that. It’s bad for the plant and extremely risky. You’ll have to water that whole pot, but with the seedling or small plant only having so many roots, it would end up basically flooding the plant out. So you move up gradually. I’ll get back to that later. The soil I was using was extremely basic; Lowe’s soil, and vermiculite mix that I blended 2 parts to 1, respectively. It was a good enough medium to sprout my seedlings and get them started, but I knew I needed more. So the guy helping me hooked me up with a 2 cubic feet/15 gallon bag of Fox Farm Happy Frog Potting Soil. I told him I was on a site (ours) where the community is pretty interactive/helpful and how I was concerned about transplanting because of the risks...He shows me this stuff called Myko, which is a root enhancer. He then transplanted a basil seedling to a larger container. Before placing it in the pre-made hole he created, he sprinkled some Myko on the roots AND in the transplanting hole (? I might have made that term up). It promotes root growth and enhances root strength as well, which not only counters transplant shock, but pretty much puts your roots on steroids. I bought a bag of that. When it’s time for flowering, I’ll be using Strawberry Fields potting soil. I went ahead and purchased other containers as well, up to the 3 gallon fabric pots which will be the plants’ final destination. I told him my water feeding schedule, water every day, water/notes on alternating days. He was a fan of it, and suggested that I go a little further and do my days like this: FEED, FEED, WATER, and so on. I purchased Cali-Mag to make sure I have enough calcium going on. I went ahead and got a PH kit as well, to make sure my water and nute days are both within 5.5-6.5 pH. I slick felt like I was in high school science/chemistry all over again lol. I went ahead and bought coated metal flower support wires for LST. He did mention doing “supertopping”, but forgot to show me on a plant. Basically, it’s gently bending the main cola back and forth until you can have it bent in a ways to where you can maneuver it under netting/lattice to allow other cola to get equal/adequate energy and/or growth. I’m paraphrasing this shit, so by all means, correct me. I’m just hoping I can help someone else. I transplanted my plants to GroPro Square 4 x 4 x 3.5 plastic potting containers, and used the Mykos on the roots and soil. I then watered my plants with the water/CaliMag solution, and placed them under the grow lights again. I’ll add pix and vids to my entry shortly.

Day 38- 18/01/22 and we are now in flowering everything is looking good I’m still cutting down the plants from my last grow Afghan kush and once I’m done with that I’ll be moving everything that isn’t chemdawg into the HPS tent!!! Day 41-21/01/22 plant is finally in the hps tent and doing well!!!

Estas dos semanas siguió lloviendo cada 2 o 3 días. La planta va creciendo muchísimo, Rainbow saco diferencia entre las Gorilla Family. En dos días, se vuelve a hacer LST mas fertilizantes de crecimiento. 50 CM alto 87 CM largo

Grow very quickly little stretchy bud took off in bloom buds started small then just exploded after 4th week green house grow with 2 fans super clean buds patiently waiting on buds to dry

Update

4/8/21 - I am continuing with watering the plants with just water (ph 6). The plants are doing great, the nutrient burn is still visible but nothing too serious. LST continues this week as well. 4/9/21 - Took the LST clips off of the plants today and did some manual LST. Plants are looking good, the bottom leaves are growing in, some of them died I believe due to the clips blocking off the lights. 4/10/21 - Trying out new LST clips. The plants seem to be doing well, next week we plan on starting the nutrients at half strength. The plants have several new leaves coming in. 4/11/21 - Finally installed the fan (see video). Next week we plan on topping them along with starting nutrients at half strength. 4/12/21 - We will be topping the plants in the next few days. The new LST clips are working great and are a better size than the first ones. Watered with ph 6 water and did some manual LST. 4/13/21 - The plants are doing great! The nutrient burn is pretty much gone. 4/14/21 - The plants are getting big! No water today, the soil is still wet from yesterday. Tomorrow I will be feeding them Fox Farm nutrients on week 2 of their feeding schedule.

Im still continuing the rest. Will update on the harvest this weekend

After many weeks believing that I have mites in my cultivation, I start to believe that my real problem is my soil. Apparently my soil still has decomposing material and it has affected the leaves. Waiting the flowering goes and how will plant react of it. I hope it not serious thing. My leaves problem look like excess of nutrient in soil formulation. On this week I turn lights on. Now there will be 360W full power to flowering stage.

Hello everyone A fun week again. Plant is showing nice development. I really try to focus on exposing the future budsites. Last year I didn't tuck away the fanleaves enough. This grow I'm tying them all down as much as possible. I find it hard to place them right so every 2 days I do some adjustments. The evolution I have right now is exactly the same as last year so I gotta have faith in the next 2 weeks that she will grow big. Previous grow I had about 60% of the possible canopy. With the right techniques I'm sure I can reach about 80% canopy coverage. I know I'm not the best LST student but I'm trying 😄 Any advice is welcome I'm still giving water with a bit of nutrients but I'm gonna add plain 6,5 PH water from now on. Every second watering during the week plain water. A good rain now would also be very welcome 😄 So far so good Hope everyone is okay See u next week Happy growing 🙏

_____Week 6 | Day 42-49 ______ Day 42 - 48 🌞 ------ Not much happened this week. I had little time for pictures and documentation. This week I just made sure that the new branches always get a lot of light and are not covered by other leafs. The plants have not grown much, because I constantly stress them and push them down. All new shoots that grow to size were topped, in the middle area of the plant, to keep everything nice and even Day 48 🌞 ------- each Plant 2 Liter...gluck, gluck, gluck.... ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Light - 18/6 h - 400 Watt 60% Dim. PPFD - 600 - 650 µmol Temp. - 24° Hum. - 70 % RLH

CBD Compassion Lime Auto 🏥🍋 Your passion, Our Passion, Dutch Passion... 😸 Growing in Mars Hydro tent (3x3) ⛺ with Mars Hydro FC 3000 🚀 Week 7 ✅

All of the branches have been tied down for LST she is reacting super well so far. The smell on it is definitely becoming apparent. Love how they are reacting ti the nutrients from green leaf as well very responsive. Everytime i prune leaves of more just grow immediately pretty amazing. Cant wait to smoke this plant :)

It is looking like 2 - 3 more weeks till harvest. Buds are thick and heavy. Not alot of trichrome production yet, but getting more every day.

All content on this diary is for inspirational and educational purposes only. The ideas shared are not a substitute for professional advice. This diary/account is not officially affiliated with Alan Watts or his estate. All materials are used under the principles of fair use. I honor the legacy of Alan Watts by sharing his wisdom respectfully and with the intention of inspiring awareness and self-understanding. 2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Remember, For every molecule of glucose produced during photosynthesis, a plant needs to split six molecules of water. This process provides the hydrogen needed for synthesizing glucose and other organic compounds, while oxygen is released as a byproduct. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (Lime/yellowing) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. For those high-intensity workouts when 1 meal a day is just not enough! Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The plant was getting a little limey yellow in the centre. Shortly thereafter, she was back in business, green mostly regenerated. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Confidence is evidence... nothing more. You are confident because you have driven 10,000 times, you are confident because you have spoken 10,000 times. People think confidence is a feeling, but it's not. If you want more confidence, then you need to create evidence, take more shots, collect more data, build more experiences, take more risks; fail, confidence doesn't come first; it is the reward you get for doing the work. no one else wants to do.

not that easy to trim - pretty dense buds

Week 13 : This wraps up the last week of flush for the biotabs, they got 2.5 ml/L of humic acid each feed 3x 4 pints this week. These have a real funky smell to them, cant really put my finger on it, kinda plant musty, really strong smell, maybe skunky or something, main thing is they're getting the chop soon ! Clipped a fair few leaves but the idea is a dry trim and hanging the plants whole for 10-12 days of slow drying before the cure. Man i cant wait to wrap this grow up ! These kinda grew crowded, i can tell because the biotabs and mrB's have a few branches that are anemic, small, useless, so they're all gonna go into the bubble hash, let's see if i can extract anything from these beauties ! wish me luck 🚀

Day 61 of flowering The ladies are ripening well and will probably be harvested next week. I'll let the soil dry out almost completely a few days before harvesting.