nonick123

I've been blocked in the chat for sending a URL. I buy the molasses, rice husk, and rice bran here: viverovetiver.com/insumos/

@GMSgrows https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19vY_d_K6CnBXtKWdFe-qHSpHOUi6ZeNB2oIT04WGUhg/edit#gid=404543837

Mini-Tutorial Watering & Nutrients in Soil (Outdoor or Indoor) You need an EC (TDS) meter, a pH meter, water, and liquid nutrients. Use base water that has an EC = 0.4 / TDS = 200 PPMs. 1. Put the base water at a temperature of 22 - 25 ºC. 2. Add the nutrients. If the supplier indicates to add some first, follow their instructions. For example, Xpert Nutrients states that: - First, add Silica Force to the nutrient solution. - When using Nutrients A+B, always add part A first, mix it in the water, then add part B and mix again. - Add Enzymes at the end of the nutrient solution, preferably just before watering. Another supplier, GenOneEleven, indicates that the order of addition is: Wholly base Solid Green Rest of the nutrients according to the chart. Why do they say this? Because there are nutrients that can drastically change the pH, and if you add other nutrients first, you can "deactivate" the action of the nutrient once it enters the mix. 4. IMPORTANT. Every time you add a new nutrient, gently shake the mixture to integrate (mix) it. At this step, use a clean plastic pipette or plastic tool! Better NOT to use metal tools, as they can react depending on the pH. 5. Once all the nutrients are added, gently shake the mixture and wait for the "little whirlpool" that should have formed from stirring to stop. Why do I say GENTLY? Because if you shake too hard and/or for too long, you are adding oxygen from the air to the mixture, and this modifies the pH. And what will happen if you measure the pH after shaking hard, pour the watering mixture into your pot, and wait about 30-60 minutes? The oxygen will escape from the mixture, and your pH will change... Therefore, in this last step, you should: Gently shake Let the whirlpool stop (it should take less than 1 minute; if not, you shook too hard) Measure the pH Adjust the pH (if needed) Measure the EC How to adjust the EC? It's simple: If it's too high, add "pure" water (EC = 0.4 / TDS = 200 PPMs) or osmosis water (if available), and gently shake until you reach the desired EC. If it's too low, add more nutrients until you reach the desired EC. And ALWAYS when you adjust the EC, repeat the steps above: 1. Gently shake 2. Let the whirlpool stop (it should take less than 1 minute; if not, you shook too hard) 3. Measure the pH 4. Adjust the pH (if needed) 5. Measure the EC If you have any questions, let me know!

Mini Germination Tutorial - A glass with 125 ml of osmosis water (or bottled water) - Add 3 drops of hydrogen peroxide - Place in a dark spot (like a closet in your house) for 18 to 24 hours at 22 - 25 ºC After 24 hours, whether the root has emerged or not: - Prepare your seedling pot (up to 1 liter) with light substrate, or the final pot in case of Autoflowering - Water the pot until it drains slightly - Place the seed in a 0.5 cm hole, cover with a bit of substrate, and moisten with a water spray And in 24-48 hours... Ta-da! 💪

Mini Tutorial for EC / TDS Control in Soil Cultivation Many people will say that with organic soil (like Biobizz, Canna, Plagron....) and organic fertilizers, you can buffer anything, but that's not entirely true... Not all strains react the same to high or low EC / TDS (or to rapid fluctuations when watering) I recommend you buy 2 EC meters like the one below: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005005185457231.html Why do I recommend 2 units? Because the price is very low, and if one of them fails, you have the other to compare I can tell you that it’s a piece of equipment that works very well (even though it’s cheap) because I work in a lab and have verified it against equipment costing hundreds of €s, and it works great for its price Next, an important concept: => EC and TDS represent the same thing (the solids dissolved in water). They only differ when applying a mathematical formula to transform one value to the other, and vice versa You can use EC or TDS, whichever is more comfortable for you (personally, I use TDS because I prefer working mentally with large numbers) On the other hand, and VERY IMPORTANT, you need to know that EC / TDS is suitable for each stage This can be easily summarized in the following table: https://ibb.co/MCbz6bR The next important point is to know the quality (TDS/EC) of the water you use as a base for nutrients Do you use tap water? Reverse Osmosis (RO) water? You should measure the TDS / EC of the water you use as a base, and it shouldn’t exceed TDS = 250 PPMs (or EC = 0.5) If your water is harder than 250 PPMs, you can use bottled water or reverse osmosis water mixed with tap water that has been left to sit for 24 hours (to eliminate chlorine) until you achieve a base water of around 250 PPMs (EC = 0.5) If you use reverse osmosis (RO) water with 5 – 50 PPMs, you might be missing basic and necessary minerals for the plant that are found in tap water. In this case, I recommend mixing as mentioned in the previous point until reaching 200 - 250 PPMs, or using specific fertilizers for soft water (but this is more complex) Then start adding nutrients until you’re in the appropriate range of the table! https://ibb.co/MCbz6bR If you have any questions, just message me!

Mini drying tutorial dedicated to @FatnastyzBudz My preferred drying method after 25 years is with hanging branches or the whole plant hanging. Currently, I dedicate one of the grow cabinets to drying, where - I turn on the cabinet extractor - I place a fan on the lowest setting at the bottom of the cabinet so that the air DOES NOT hit the branches, to prevent them from drying too quickly - I close the cabinet to dry in darkness - In 7 - 10 days the plants are dry, and the indicator is when the branches snap with a "clack" There is only one factor I modify depending on the environmental conditions (temperature and humidity) - If the humidity is high and the temperature is low (25 ºC or less), I do the manicuring / trimming (removing the fan leaves and the larger leaves coming from the buds) BEFORE starting to dry, to prevent mold or bud rot from forming - If it's very hot (temperatures above 25-28 ºC), I hang the whole plants with the fan leaves, so that the drying is a bit slower and the terpenes and THC are better preserved If you can control the humidity and temperature, the perfect conditions are 60% humidity and 20 ºC temperature Hope this helps!

Great grower. I see you everywhere on GD! Nice work bro 👊🏻😎💨

Mini-Tutorial Using Coco / Coco Bricks in Substrate (Soil) I found out a while ago that coco bricks are not pre-buffered (with the pH adjusted)... and I was putting the coco in my substrate with a very high pH! So you have two options for adding coco to your substrate Two options: 1. Buy pre-buffered coco directly in bags from a trusted brand: - PRO-MIX CX: https://www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-cx/ - PLAGRON Premium Coco: https://plagron.com/en/hobby/products/cocos-premium - BIOBIZZ CocoMix: https://www.biobizz.com/producto/cocomix/ 2. Buy your coco bricks, and follow this guide that the great grower @Hydro_Hiebs explained to me for using coco bricks The process with the coco brick consists of soaking the brick in tap water. After complete saturation, start rinsing the coco fiber with any type of strainer to remove the dust. Then place the coco fiber in a fabric pot. After that, prepare a calcium and magnesium (Cal-Mag) solution at 150% of the recommended dosage. Then, soak the fabric pot filled with coco fiber in the solution for 24 hours. Repeat this soaking process with calcium and magnesium (Cal-Mag) solution at 150% of the recommended dosage In total: twice, with a new solution. This is work, and it's easier to get the pre-buffered coco fiber bags.

Mini tutorial PPFD Values to respect: Seedling: PPFD 200-300 Vegetative: PPFD 300-500 Flowering: PPFD 600-1000 Late flowering (last 2 weeks): PPFD 900-1000 WTF is PPFD? 😁 Basically, it's a measure of the amount of light your plant receives. You can have a device like a lux meter to measure it, but if you don't have one... Do you have a Smartphone? You probably do. Download the App "PHOTONE" on your Smartphone, set the App for full spectrum light (or the appropriate one) and measure the light right at the height of the highest part of the plant. It won't be a perfectly exact value, but it will tell you if you're within the desired range or not. Like with nutrients, more light does NOT equal a bigger or faster-growing plant. The link to Photone for Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=io.lightray.photone&hl=es&gl=US&pli=1 The link to Photone for iPhone: https://apps.apple.com/es/app/photone-grow-light-meter/id1450079523

I've been blocked in the chat again, I'm sorry... I was telling you about the pH that organic soil regulates itself, I control the pH quite a bit because I have very acidic formulas and others alkaline that I mix to achieve a pH in watering between 5.9 and 6.4.

Mini-Tutorial Autoflowers: Germination and First 15 Days After many grows with Autos and many failures (small plants, burnt plants...) for me, there’s just one trick: treat them like babies for the first 15 days. - They should be germinated in Light Mix substrate, WITHOUT any nutrients. - Germinate in the final pot. - Do a first watering with ONLY water in the substrate. - For the first 12 or 15 days, DO NOT water until the pot feels light, just like before the first watering. - I usually DO NOT water until day 12 or day 14 from germination (when the pot is light). - VERY IMPORTANT: For the first 15 days, keep them in "perfect" environmental conditions: 21-28 ºC and high relative humidity (70-85%). - Maintaining high relative humidity is very easy: Put a humidity dome over them, or make your own with the top third of a clear PET water bottle (check out my photos). - From day 1 to day 12 (or 14), keep the humidity dome on and EVERY day spray water on the substrate (this will keep the relative humidity inside the humidity dome high). After these 15 days, the plant will have a very strong root system and will have passed the seedling (baby) phase, and you can start watering and applying nutrients like a photoperiod plant!