So this is a Tropicana cookies FF from 420fastbuds that I had laying around for months and I remember the last one was chunky chunky.. so I know this one will be slapping hard.. the perk on her is serious like if she wants to touch the light lmao but yeah I have been doing dry backs with her this past week and she's been loving it.. I can tell that her roots are looking for that water and growing.. my plan is to put her to flower on the 1st this week and have her done in 55 days.. if I do then berlin will try her as well .. lets grow!!!! Thanks for watching guys.. check out my Instagram.. only_dabs4200 Thanks alot 420fastbuds!!! Keep up the solid work

0.23v tuned to 7.83Hz Plants exposed to the Schumann resonance often show greater resistance to stress factors such as drought, diseases, and pests. It is possible that these natural electromagnetic waves strengthen plants' immune systems and increase their ability to resist disease. Pretty neat, in the afternoon when the tent hovers around 84F the plants are 🙏, can visually see in time around 10 minutes after I opened the tent the temp had dropped to 76 pressure was lost, she is still chilling but she doesn't quite have that perk anymore. *Salinity3.5% - 100ml H2O=100g The concentration of salt in a solution 3.5%= 3.5g in 100ml. Growing well. Not going to top or do any training, I'll let the plant do its own thing, she is constructing foundations now for what she senses ahead. Smart girl. ✨️ Let her, do her thing, let me do mine. The voltage that is needed for electrolysis to occur is called the decomposition potential. The word "lysis" means to separate or break, so in terms, electrolysis would mean "breakdown via electricity. Green hydrogen is hydrogen produced by the electrolysis of water, using renewable electricity. The production of green hydrogen causes significantly lower greenhouse gas emissions than the production of grey hydrogen, which is derived from fossil fuels without carbon capture. Electrolysis of pure water requires excess energy in the form of overpotential to overcome various activation barriers. Without the excess energy, electrolysis occurs slowly or not at all. This is in part due to the limited self-ionization of water. Pure water has an electrical conductivity of about one hundred thousandths that of seawater. Efficiency is increased through the addition of an electrolyte (such as a salt, acid or base). Photoelectrolysis of water, also known as photoelectrochemical water splitting, occurs in a photoelectrochemical cell when light is used as the energy source for the electrolysis of water, producing dihydrogen . Photoelectrolysis is sometimes known colloquially as the hydrogen holy grail for its potential to yield a viable alternative to petroleum as a source of energy. The PEC cell primarily consists of three components: the photoelectrode the electrolyte and a counter electrode. The semiconductor crucial to this process, absorbs sunlight, initiating electron excitation and subsequent water molecule splitting into hydrogen and oxygen. Water electrolysis requires a minimum potential difference of 1.23 volts, although at that voltage external heat is also required. Typically 1.5 volts is required. Biochar, a by-product of biomass pyrolysis, is typically characterized by high carbon content, aromaticity, porosity, cation exchange capacity, stability, and reactivity. The coupling of biochar oxidation reaction (BOR) with water electrolysis constitutes biochar-assisted water electrolysis (BAWE) for hydrogen production, which has been demonstrated to reduce the electricity consumption of conventional water electrolysis from 1.23v to 0.21v. Biochar particles added to the electrolyte form a two-phase solution, in which the biochar oxidation reaction (BOR) has a lower potential (0.21 V vs. RHE) than OER (1.23 V vs. RHE), reducing the energy consumption for hydrogen production via biochar-assisted water electrolysis (BAWE). BAWE produces H2 under 1 V while eliminating O2 formation: key word "eliminating". Air with a normal oxygen concentration of around 21% is not considered explosive on its own; however, if a flammable gas or vapor is present, increasing the oxygen percentage above 23.5% can significantly increase the risk of ignition and explosion due to the enriched oxygen environment. The addition of ion mediators (Fe3+/Fe2+) significantly increases BOR kinetics. Air: Nitrogen -- N2 -- 78.084% Carbon Dioxide -- CO2 -- 0.04% Hydrogen in homosphere H -- 0.00005% Hydrogen "GAS" H2 in homosphere - 0% "Nitrogen, oxygen, and argon are the three main components of Earth's atmosphere. Water concentration varies but averages around 0.25% of the atmosphere by mass. Carbon dioxide and all of the other elements and compounds are trace gases. Trace gases include the greenhouse gases carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide, and ozone. Except for argon, other noble gases are trace elements (these include neon, helium, krypton, and xenon). Industrial pollutants include chlorine and its compounds, fluorine and its compounds, elemental mercury vapor, sulfur dioxide, and hydrogen sulfide. Other components of Earth's atmosphere include spores, pollen, volcanic ash, and salt from sea spray." Although the CRC table does not list water vapor (H2O), air can contain as much as 5% water vapor, more commonly ranging from 1-3%. The 1-5% range places water vapor as the third most common gas (which alters the other percentages accordingly). Water content varies according to air temperature. Dry air is denser than humid air. However, sometimes humid air contains actual water droplets, which can make it more dense than humid air that only contains water vapor. The homosphere(where you live) is the portion of the atmosphere with a fairly uniform composition due to atmospheric turbulence. In contrast, the heterosphere is the part of the atmosphere where chemical composition varies mainly according to altitude. The lower portion of the heterosphere contains oxygen and nitrogen, but these heavier elements do not occur higher up. The upper heterosphere consists almost entirely of hydrogen, cool. 78%nitrogen as N2, a far too stable bond to be used by organisms. 20%oxygen 0.04%co2 0.00005% hydrogen When lightning strikes, it tears apart the bond in airborne nitrogen molecules. Those free nitrogen atoms N2 nitrites then have the chance to combine with oxygen molecules to form a compound called nitrates N3. Once formed, the nitrates are carried down to the ground becoming usable by organisms. Will it react with the oxygen in the air spontaneously, the answer is no. The mixture is chemically stable indefinitely. A mixture with air near the release point can be ignited, but if this does not happen then when its concentration gets below 4% it will be unable to carry a flame. Taking a small detour into chemistry here, a key concept to understanding the health impact of nitrogen-based compounds is knowing the difference between nitrates and nitrites. What Are Nitrates and Nitrites? A nitrite (NO2) is a nitrogen atom bonded to only two nitrogen atoms. Very strong bond A nitrate (NO3) is a nitrogen atom bonded to three oxygen atoms. Weaker bond The optimal pH for nitrate (NO3-) depends on the process and the type of bacteria involved. Nitrification The optimal pH for nitrification is between 7.5 and 8.6 Nitrification is the process of oxidizing ammonia to nitrate and nitrite Nitrosomonas has an optimal pH between 7.0 and 8.0 Nitrobacter has an optimal pH between 7.5 and 8.0 Nitrification ceases at pH

Start of week 5 today, everything seems to be going great! The Gelato OG is by far the biggest plant of the bunch so far but they all seem to be taking well to LST, HST , Topping & defoliation! Will be going in the flower tent as soon as the other ladies harvest so they will probably have atleast 2 to 3 more weeks of veg!

Today being the 6/2/25 i can say happily that's she has recovered well from last week. From the stem snapping but as you can see she is doing amazingly well for what I have put her through, it was a bag seed and from what I can see it's got good genetics. And smells like lemon haze to me but time will tell. I have released her from her shackles and now I will just let her grow free till crop I may introduce a net not too sure yet

Purple punch is nuts, super frosty. Even some fan leaves are covered with tricomes. I believe I will flush it very soon, maybe in the next watering. Gorilla punch beautiful plant with some purple nugs. They are getting really fat Mimosa cake still getting more and more white pistils and I hopping the nugs get fat 🙏🏼

Day 30: Hello everyone, everything proceeds as expected, but two plants are slightly behind the other six that already show an advanced flowering. On the thirtieth day from germination the plants are 50 to 70 cm tall. As you can see in the last video now that most of the plants are in advanced bloom I have reduced the oscillation of the lamp. Day 33: In a few days some plants have reached one meter in height, for this reason I moved them trying to create a new SOG. I have also increased the space between the plants in order to give more light to the secondary tops. Oscillation of the lamp further reduced. Water now 10 liters per day for all 12 pots (8 gorillas, 2 advanced cheese and 2 baby cheese). The scent is stronger now, especially when the lamp is turned off. Day 33: I was around and bought in store 5 Seeds Royal Gorilla Auto and 5 seeds Royal Amnesia Auto to prepare the next cycles and they gave me 2 seeds LSA Lemon Haze Auto. The last seed of Royal Cheese has not germinated and I decided to put a seed of this LSA Lemon Haze on the ground. I don't know the LSA seed bank and if someone has cultivated this strain I would like information about it. Day 35: All plants have reached or exceeded one meter in height, so I removed all the supports under the pots and moved all the plants. The flowering is now advanced in the first 6 plants, the two remaining Gorillas and the two large Cheese have now started the flowering phase. Lastly, I removed all the underdeveloped branches and some leaves. The last germinate, the LSA Lemon Haze Auto, is added to my cultivation.

start of week 4: i cut off the fanleaves to give the stems light. a day after that there is still water drooping out of the cuts like it doesnt heal ? weird. it has been a bit cold at night, the humidity also swings a lot but they grow, when the lights go out leaves curl up like they are freezing. the video here is when the lights have been on for 8hours already, when they in the dark they look dead lol

Ya se acerca el día de la cosecha, aun sigue pidiendo agua aunque ha bajado su demanda con respecto a las semanas anteriores. Voy mirando los tricomas esperando el punto óptimo.

On day 1 I changed out my reservoir. I lowered my nutes to 650 ppm(25% reduction). I adjusted the PH down to 6.1. My left plant has some burnt tips from either PH shift or over fertilization. My hope is that the lower ppm will help to resolve the issue before it spreads. On day 2 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 6.3 to 5.9. On day 3 the reservoirs PH is 6.0. I installed my new 200 watt HLG Rspec. I adjusted PPFD readings to 700-1300 PPFD on all tops. On day 4 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 5.8 to 6.2. On day 5 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 6.4 to 6.0. I diluted my nutrients in my reservoir by removing one gallon of nutrients from the rez and and adding 2 gallons of straight tap water to the rez. This brought the nute concentration from 770 ppm to 540 ppm as the plants will be entering the ripening stage in a few days and they have too much nitrogen judging by the extremely dark green leaves and burnt leaf tips on some branches of the left side plant. The buds seem slightly smaller then my last run which may be due to an excess of nitrogen and maybe not enough light as some of my tops are taller then the others making proper PPFD challenging. All in all the girls are coming along nice and I look forward to the final weeks of flowering 😀 On day 6 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 5.9 to 6.2. I think I have halted the nute burn as I haven't seen it progressing any more on the leaves. I will continue to monitor closely during these final weeks. The trichome production is increasing with some trichs on top of colas starting to go cloudy. The pistils are turning brown with roughly 40-50% are turning brown all signs I'm getting closer to the harvest window 😆. I dimmed my light to give 600-1000 PPFD to tops. On day 7 I reduced my temps to 75 during the day and 68 at night. I adjusted the PH of the reservoir from 6.6 to 6.1. My reservoirs ppm was too high so I diluted the rez with 2 gal of tap water. This brought it down to 480ppm. The average ppfd to all 14 tops is 604 with no top receiving more than 1000 ppfd

Привет друзья. Наше знакомства продолжается с новым сортом автоцветущих растений от Smail_Seeds сорт .TROPICANNA POISONZKITTLEZ XL AUTO Reg. Сегодня растению 97 дня. Шишки налились очень хорошо😀 Вы всё сами видите. Скоро будут феминизированные Сорт выводим сами. Смотри мой профиль, у нас всегда есть что то интересное. Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

Hey Growmies. 😎This is a back post...sorry took me so long. Nov 8th (sunday) She looks nutrient deprived. Little did I know the VPN (low) was so far off after changing my pre-filter that the negative pressure wasn't allowing her to want to pull up nutrients. Has been a problem longer than I realized. I had no idea that my fan was too strong for my tent. Can kill a plant. Live and learn. So, now comes the story of nutrient toxicity because I DX wrong and gave some amendments and nutrients that she didn't need. So sad. . …. Soil PH is at 6.7 Watered about 3/4 gallon almost 1 gallon Growers recharge With soluble kelp Humic acid (20ml per gal dilution) NOV 9th RH is 52 and temp 72.5deg (RH is dropping due to increased airflow) She does not appear to be stressed this morning. Growth is still very slow but the new leaves appear to be healthy with no Brown tips. There's still New Growth appearing on the old nodes where fan leaves have been removed due to burning lower down on the stems. I'm hoping there's not much more lateral growth and more of a filling out so that I can flower.(room for the stretch) I hope the lower humidity is conducive to her growth and not going to cause Mite infestation due to stress and defenses down. On that note the tanglefoot needs to be reapplied. On about a 10-minute inspection I see no visible signs canoe leaves or might damage. The wettable sulfur seems to be stove in them off. I'm also doing my best to boost the immune system of the plant. I've been meaning to do a compost tea in order to infuse the soil with more microorganisms including both bacterial and fungi.  Still learning about “living soil” and probably making tons of mistakes but am bumbling through. NOV 10th Defoliation NOV 11th On this day she was still looking so deprived of nutrients. SHE WAS. Only not for reason of them not being in the soil. Environment was off and she was just protecting herself by not taking in the necessary food. I was of the midset to save her with soothing things which are good for “plant stress” and some nutrients. WRONG I was again. This is what I gave her that day. (A great combo but not what she needed) Soil PH 6 Growers recharge coconut water (30ml per half-gallon)  aloe juice (1/8 cup in half a gallon)  With soluble kelp  Humic acid (20ml per gal dilution)   NOV 12th IPM: Foliar spray right after lights out: micronized sulfur- 1/5 tbsp per 1/2 gallon ,Aloe Vera 2 tbsp, yucca extract NOV 13th removed some dead leaves Soil PH 6.5 pot was medium /heavy- leaving it so I can put compost tea on tomorrow evening.  Defoliated any dead growth and any tiny branches that didn't have a lot of nodes on them.  Changed the timer for the FAN to 15on and 15 off. I had upped the heat in the house to 72 deg instead of 71 and things are VERY DRY! Too dry for the temp. The VPD just way off here. Explains some of the dryness I am feeling on the leaf surfaces, slow growth etc. This climate issue has to be checked. Also, added back in a second humidifier! Brewing compost tea........

I just recently made a growdiaries account and wasn’t able to get one of my Gelato Auto by Fastbuds. But I was really happy with the results and wanted to show it off a bit. I ended up with 105 grams dry from the 1 autoflower plant alone! Also mid grow as I was entering the flowering stage I broke one of the bigger stems during lst so I know for sure I would have pulled a QP off of her alone. Really happy with that and not to mention the quality of nugs I got off of her.

She's looking very healthy and ready to give all of her, looks beautiful,let's see how she performs the rest of the way! 💚🌱💎🔝

SUNDAY 5/19: I accidentally left my UV timer in the "ON" position all night and half of the next day...fearing sudden death, I have moved everybody that was almost ready into the dark tent, including the two Tangies and will start harvesting them tomorrow..maximum UVB stress for about 20 hours...if it works out that they are even more potent than expected without turning brown overnight, I'll claim it was "intentional," and purport it as an "advanced technique" 😉 MONDAY: The both looked fine..no signs of UV damage, so I left them in the dark tent for another day. I'll harvest them both tomorrow and probably wet trim Tina and hang-dry Tanya..she's gonna be a lot of work and I have 5 other plants to harvest as well tomorrow...and I've got to flush several others and water the rest. Both of these plants absolutely WREAK without even molesting them..delightfully dank!😋👍

D78/FD50 - Apologies, a week late on my report. Nothing really going on with the SCP. Pistils starting to turn a peach colour so starting to ripen on the new 11/13 cycle (Still using flower initiator so they're getting equivilent of 15hrs darkness!!!). Couple of big girl colas in there but starting to worry as have had Bud Rot starting to run rife through the Cookies!!! 😠 **Update** D84/FD56 - Cookies have become a real problem...looks like a partial harvest to hopefully save the SCP. Researching some Organic/Bio-Fungicides (Bacillus amyloliquefaciens/Trichoderma Harzianum - Both in TNC TricorrP5 - Speaking to some people to see about getting a hold of some as you cant get Southern AG here or some of the Dedicated T. Harzianum fungicides like TAC3!!!) that can be applied even through to harvest (But best at start of flower as an inoculum) to outcompete the Botrytis. I am starting to think turning WIlma into a DWC is why my plants have got so big the last 2 grows (Could be the Feed, but dunno...I am thinking 24hr access to water & food has made them greedy and the good light has given them fuel!!!). Hard to contain the humidity so looks like next grow (After a decontamination session after this batch finished up) I will be vicious with Defoliation (May even got into mainlining) and find a way to get this new fan direct to the outside to strip out humid air thats getting pumped back into the room. Anyway, happy growing all!!! 💪

Update week 1 day 4 of bloom , this week we put the net to make the technique that calls scrog we see next week what is the resul

Alright Then REMINDER I DO 2 UPDATES PER WEEK 👉WEEKLYROUNDUP👈👉MIDWEEKLY UPDATE👈 We just hit week 3 and all is well , have to admit she's ahead of all the others of same age , nice Growth in just 21 days😃 ....... Middle of last week I decided to start a little training by pulling her over to the side 👌 I was happy with the internode spacing but not the branching , begun heavy LST to try and bring the internode branching up👌 and I'm glad to report that it did workout and I decided to top her 👈 Very little water given ,so far and rain water to be used entire growth Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉I WISH GD HAD DISCORD SERVER SO GROWMIES COULD HAVE A PLACE TO HELP AND TALK THINGS RELATED TO GROWING IN REAL TIME.....👈 👉SO I CREATED ONE ALL YOU NEED IS TO JOIN THE GROWDIARIES DISCORD SERVER !!!!!!!!!!!👈 LINK IS 👉 https://discord.gg/zQmTHkbejs AND SEE HOW IT PLAYS OUT !!!!!!!

Week 4 day 23 just started lst going good so far I think