Flush time for divine storm and mandarin dreams. These ladies are frosty and sticky AF! Just insane how sticky they are and the frost is like light snow, my camera just doesn't do it justice. The Mars-Hydro TSW2000 has blown me away over the course of this grow. It's definitely a high quality light and has delivered impressive results so far. Thanks for stopping by growfessors! 👽🌳💚

Starting to look good. Taken out the Grow food. Not a lot to do😎😎 Started to think about what to do next, will be a full 4 pot tent tho. Got a nice tin full of different strains, poor me, the choices I have to make😂🤣😂🤣

Hello Hello 🙂 😇 🙃 Today is day number 50, firs day of week 8th 😇 I never ever grow so fast strains, FB seeds are a monsters 😇 💪 🙏 Update: Day 50 The Cinderella and the Bruce Banner start to show some deficiency of Cal and Mg as they flowering wildly. Not a big deal I just increase CalMag Agent from 0.3ml/l to 0,5ml/l plus I'll add BN Roots for better nutrients intake. I hope this will help 🙏 All the best, You Lovely Girls Growers 😇 💪 🙏

So Friday will be day 70. I messed up a lot, did lst and used big pots so I'm thinking these might go 3-5 more weeks. They smelled so amazing a few times today though. First the purple punch, then the sour diesel, then the girl scout cookies, each gave off aromas one after the other a few times today. The purple punch smalls so sweet and delicious.

Week twelve for Strawberry Zkittlez. This will be the last week for this lady – and we are super satisfied on how she performed in that 3l pot. Resin production is absolutely high level, lollipoping helped her a lot to focus on her remaining buds and she is really beautiful. Super nice one :)

Hola a todos!. La planta viene creciendo bien y fuerte. se rego con 2ml x l de agua de oro negro de namaste. En los próximos días estaré actualizando mejor el diario.

CONTEST TEKNOGROW BIG BUDDHA SEEDS BUDDHA TAHOE GROWER GIOVANNI

Mucha humedad foliar

8-10 days in fridge and I’ll post last update with cured buds

Wk 4 was where I started to notice things weren't as they seemed. Continuous growth and some LST started towards the end of Wk3 and throughout 4 as different plants developed. The 3 girls in the Coco were looking wonderful, with nothing really done to them. - Towards the end of the week I noticed my leaves on the girls In the aero were now dramatically wilting and discolouration continued. - I flushed the tank and proceeded with just water.. 12 hours later after some research I realised I most likely have root rot!! - The following morning I took a look at the roots in more detail and what I thought was a bit of nute burn from the gunky root juice was in-fact slime. - I again drained the tank and rinsed the roots with tap water. Fortunately I have an adaptable tap and managed to hose them with an actual hose sprinkler! (it was better than a shower head). To my surprise most of the slime and damaged root matter rinsed away. I literally just scrubbed the whole tank with Flash bleach and rinsed the absolute crap out of it. - Again more research educated me that organic fertilisers are generally not great for hydro - I also realised that amazons system is terribly designed. The red sprinkler covers which are there purely for inspection let an immense amount of light penetrate through. This was another noob mistake I learned the hard way! Moving on I bought some Regen -e- root and pursued my crusade!

week intel: we reached the peak of flowering stage and need to cause a little more e.c stress from this week so e.c stress is twice a week i reduced the amount of Nitrogen and calcium and stopped feeding silicate in other hand i raised the amount of base nutrient and booster short story version: more K & P - less N stresses : a little E.C stress around 1 and 1.2 twice a week from this week feeding: i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them high with base nutrients(calcium & micros (half dose) + Bloom) about 566 ppm - 1.1 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them low dose of Top-Max + B-52 around 392 ppm - 0.7 e.c to let them recover a little but not fully recover still a little stress will caused. day 5 : i feed them high dose of Feeding Booster around 630 ppm - 1.2 e.c to cause e.c stress again guide of the week : e.c stress if done correctly is one of the very few ways to increase quality in all aspects ( color , aroma , taste , bud structure , resin contents ) but if you over do it , listen carefully brother : it can reduce quality in every aspect so always look for signs and never reach the red line

06.07.25 FW1 TriPart Micro: 50→ 30ml TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20ml Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Watermelon + Pumpkin): 10 → 30ml 12.07.25 FW1 GreenBuzzBloom 60 →40ml, TriPart Bloom: 20 → 40ml, fpj 30→60ml 22.07.25 FW3 TriPartMicro 30→20ml , TriPartBloom 60→80ml , GreenBuzzBloom 40→50ml 24.07.25 FW3 Cal-Mag 60→40ml 26.07.25 got thrips but handled them with extra airflow and defoliation. 29.07.25 FW4 GreenBuzzBloom 50→20ml, Home-made FFJ/FPJ (new batch) 60→120ml 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿 Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 26.07.25 FW3 – Fed 3l of #1 50% strength→ 2l runoff 27.07.25 FW34 – Fed 3l of #1 → 1.5l runoff 28.07.25 FW34 – Fed 3l of #1 → 2l runoff 29.07.25 FW34 – Fed 3l of #1 → 2l runoff (*RUNOFF reused for tomato plants) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30L #1 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 TriPart Micro: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 40 → 50 → 30 → 20ml = 0.67ml/L 🍶 TriPart Grow: 0ml = 0.00ml/L 💧 TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20 → 60 → 80ml = 2.67ml/L 🍶 GreenBuzz Bloom: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 60 → 40 → 50 → 20ml = 0.67ml/L 💧 Cal-Mag: 60 → 40ml = 1.33ml/L 🍶 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (new batch): 10 → 30 → 60 → 120ml = 4.00ml/L 💧 pH Down: Citric acid (BuxXtrade) — adjust to ~pH 6.0 📦 TOTAL: 280ml per 30L 🔬 9.33ml/L 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶

Luego del transplante comencé inmediatamente a realizar l.s.t con un amarre del tallo central al borde de la maceta. Se aplicó tierra de diatomeas en el sustrato para prevención y aporte de silicio.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Hey everyone 😃. No training was applied this week. I'll do that in the coming week. It was poured twice with 1 liter this week. The tent was cleaned and the humidifier was refilled every day. The ambient values ​​are in the optimal range and the setup has been checked 👍. I wish you a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy and let it grow 👍🍀🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/red-mandarine-f1-fast-version/ Type: Red Mandarine F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Red Poison Auto®️ (SWS39) X Tangie (California Orange x Hybrid Skunk) 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Day 15 since seed touched soil. BAMs are growing like BAM !!!!! Great strain from start. Sometimes i have rh drops to 40%, sometimes nights go as low as 16, no additives and girls are still in great shape for time they used. Thinking to spice roots with BioSys and Great White today before watering. After lights will go off they will get BioBizz Leaf Coat shower too. Friday morning those 3 are out to the woods ! This strain has potential for champions, no doubts ! Day 19. Girls are in final place, now race with the weather and summer starts !!! Hope they will make it, have really good impression till now about this strain . Happy Growing !!!

Am Ende wird doch alles gut… kann man so sagen! :) Nach einer Woche ohne Wasser hat die Lady nochmal richtig zugelegt und an Duft gewonnen. Jetzt 2 Wochen trocknenund ab in die Grovebags

week six flower everything looks great so far :D buds are filling out & terps going crazy!! CherryPie 1: smells fresh like minty CherryPie 2: smells like cherrys very fruity I water them with 1.5l every 48h the light I use was set to 100% and it hangs 80cm away from the tops