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This was the girls last week! I decided to call them finished on day 63 the tricomes are almost all cloudy, with a small amount of amber. I’ve learned that they continue to degrade as you dry and cure your flower, so I’m trying something new for me, and pull them a little earlier than I usually would. In addition, after watching a podcast (Dude Grows Show) if you don’t know, check it out… I decided to run the lights for 18 hours instead of 12/12 for the last 5 days before harvest. The idea behind this, is to stress the plant enough to increase its natural sunblock/protections, which would be terpenes and tricomes just before you harvest, while also possibly quickening the finishing time for your plant. The group was discussing the benefits of this (listed above) while some already had implemented these practices when finishing plants. The recommended time to run extra light time would be around the last 5-9 days of the plant, without having any nanners or weirdness happening with your plants. Anyways, they finished amazing, sticky, stinky and heavy ❤️ the Terps are crazy on these strains….Harvest details to come. Thanks for stopping by 💚🇨🇦👊

Looks like the Gorilla Zkittles is pretty much ready the colours are amazing definitely keeping this pheno. Nothing changed this week apart from a change to water, calmag & canna flush @pH 6.2 I have noticed thee THC glands are brown already you can visibly see them absolutely insane cant wait to smoke it.

Overall really pleased with finished buds really frosty, tight packed and really dense. Not bad for 3rd grow, really learning a lot each time and can’t wait to get back up and running. Been really easy to grow this strain minimal attention needed, really busy most of time so this strain is recommended for someone who doesn’t have an awful lot of time to really invest and if you have time even better as this strain I believe would be capable of much more with a bit more pampering

I am very happy how these beauties are growing. It's exactly 1 month today from planting seeds. Plan for this week it's simple. Training, leaves tucking and watering. Will keep updating progress of this week every couple days 22/08 increased nutes sligltlhy to 1ml of each per 1 ltr of spring water. Light power set on 75%. Watering increased to 400 ml per 24h. 25/08 girls are adopting to scrog very well. You can notice grow by an hour. Planning to defoliate a bit tomorrow to improve allround airflow + lollipop technique under netting. 26/08 i have defoliate from big leaves and lollipoped under the net. 27/08 Girls this morning looking very well after all this stress yesterday. They will recover in no time :) It's the end of the week 5 Will keep ya all posted Peace ✌️

FOR EVERYTHING MARS HYDRO VISIT: www.mars-hydro.com www.marshydroled.ca PROMO CODE: rocknroll VISIT THE ALIEXPRESS STORE: @marshydro_aliexpress Instagram: @marshydropenny https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA Thanks for taking the time to read and check out my diary🤜🤛 FC-E6500 LED GROW LIGHT: FC-E6500 grow light with 3978pcs OSRAM BridgeLux Diodes & Moso Driver, market-leading PPF 2.7 µmol/J, Max 2.5g yield/watt with 30% higher Average PPE, more cost-effective when compared to same style type lights. Only consumes 650W, perfectly cover 5x5ft (personal), 4x4ft (commercial) grow space. 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Starting now the 48h of darkness, and then i will dry the plant. She is looking very nicelly and with a not too strong but pleasant smell.

Vamos rumbo a la cuarta semana ya Ya está empezando a tener un olor débil

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Hi everyone :-) This week, phenotype 2 and 3 were repotted just like phenotype 1 from the Zamnesia Spring Cup in the other diary 🙏🏻. Otherwise not much has happened this week. I'm curious how the two with Canna Bio will compare to the monster bud mix in the spring cup diary :-). I wish you all a nice weekend, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 👏🏻😎

2da semana de flora y cambio positivo para las quebradas 😅 Blue Moby ni se enteró del supercroping accidental lo que si quedo con baja estatura que las demás. moby dick se recupero de la arrancada de la.punta principal 💪 viene un poco atrasada en flora en comparación a ww y bm pero viene remontando. Whithe widow viene súper bien y florando con cambios día a día 😍 está semana defolie las 3 por última vez y agregue una segunda malla de scrog para evitar el error anterior de quebrarla queriendola entrenar! Como siempre acepto criticas y concejos gracias y buena semana!! 🤝

It's going on really good,I think is time for flushing🤔

16AUGUST2025:

The germinated seeds were planted with the white tap-root pointing downwards into small pots (0,25 l) with light-mix from Goldlabel.nl. During week 1 almost all seeds came up and grew into small seedlings. Some late-comers like the MAC are just peaking out of the soil, while others are already small plants of 5-7 cm size. During this phase I only use one single S4W-LED lamp from SANlight in Austria. The fixture is appr. 50 cm above the babies and this is plenty of light for the small seedlings. They get a little bit of BIO NOVA roots with their water, because this enhances root growth a lot and helps the babies to stay healthy until they are tall enough to be repotted. Don't let the pics with the KANNABIA strain-markers in the small pots confuse you, the genetics are all different strains from different producers (see germination)! Three strains are from KANNABIA SEEDS (the Kritikal-K, the Pineapple Dream and the Skit Kandy Dream), but they came with a bunch of handy plastic strain markers, which I used for all my plants/pots.

Autos autoing !!! Dam e things are crazy!!

First time grow in hydro, started with clones.

Starting a new cicle. One of new money is 1 week younger. The Mid cicle is ready to flip The final cicle is near from harvest, maybe on 14th february. some crosses of a male Girl Scout cookies with : White widow, Industrial plant, White diesel and (White fire og x bubbakush )all made in 2014.

🔇🙈

Week 8 done, going pretty well I’m happy. 1 of the Runtz has got huge colas already and quite frosty. The other 2 Runtz - much smaller buds 1 quite frosty / smelly the other hardly at all. Both the Fastbuds although much smaller than the Zamnesias are way way frostier. And so undecided what I’ll run next time. Will see how these zamnesia genetics smoke before I decide. Issues have been these fecking fungus gnats that I can’t quite get rid off. Seriously winding me up prick little things. And maybe mistiming my final top dress for some of the girls as 1 or 2 are looking a little hungry with c3weeks to go. Also about to run out weed so will probably have to chop one of these earlier than I’d like. Still next grow starts in 3 weeks when I’ve moved into the house I bought with the money growing has saved me. Will have a 2 tent setup plus a bitching new led… Lean times soon to be thing of the past..! So all good. Thanks for reading have a great week 😊