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This girl survived Hurricane Beryl on Monday 1st July 2024...It's clear she is destined for greatness. Give thanks to Jah for his mercies on the herb.
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Had to switch the ladies to different lights for reasons undisclosed. They handled it very well and are growing vigorously. Lst was easy on them due to the topping a couple weeks ago. First signs of flower are showing as well.
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30.09.24 BT#10 Guten Abend liebe Growmie's ✌️😃 Es läuft soweit alles wie es soll , die Ice Cream Cake hat ein kleines Stickstoff Defizit heute erst mal den Drain gemessen lag noch imm Bereich des erträglichen 6,0 Ph. Wollte ausschließen das zu ein niedrigen Ph wert oder ein zu hoher die Stickstoff Aufnahme gehemmt wurde aber alles im Lot. Deswegen bekommt Sie beim nächsten Gießen ihre Gewünschte Position Futter ohne Bedenken eine Nährstoffsperre zu festigen. So macht Sie sich gut klar sie ist gerade nicht in der Lage Ihr Blattwerk weiter auszubauen geschweige Blüten vernünftig zu bilden. Wird sich erholen dann ist sie wieder voll dabei bis dahin weiter so. Vielen Dank an alle die vorbeigeschaut haben bleibt cool and stay High. Mögen all eure Ladys Gesund und prächtig wachsen und euch mit schmackhaften Stuff versorgen 🔥🍀 ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ 30.09.24 BT#10 Good evening dear Growmie's ✌️😃 So far everything is going as it should, the Ice Cream Cake has a small nitrogen deficit today first measured the drain was still in the range of the tolerable 6.0 Ph. Wanted to rule out that too low a Ph value or too high the nitrogen uptake was inhibited but everything was fine. That's why the next time she is watered she will get her desired position of food without having to worry about consolidating a nutrient barrier. In this way, it makes itself clear that it is not in a position to develop its foliage any further, let alone form flowers properly. It will recover and then it will be back in full swing until then. Many thanks to everyone who has stopped by, stay cool and stay high. May all your ladies grow healthy and splendid and provide you with tasty stuff 🔥🍀
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Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.
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Very healthy looking seedling, starting to grow very fast, she's got a great size for 14 days only and I think I'll transplant her in a couple of days more when she is 17 days or so like the other ones in this run, they grow extremely fast under the tsl2000 by mars hydro, very happy with the results I'm achieving in terms of growth, I hope the same in flower! I have Transplanted this lady into her definitive 11l pot on February 6th which is her day 17 since she was planted, she's 4 days younger than the rest of the plants in this 2x4 run, she's looking very healthy and strong, let's see how she keeps developing herself!
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@Dunk_Junk
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She only grew 1cm this week. She's really charging through flowering. Trichome production has been high this week. I wish there was a way to view the pictures in hi-res on a desktop pc instead of the small window. Timelapse this week is almost useless. No input from me other than watering/nutrients.
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Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 28 дней. Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне и продалжаю применять её через день, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 применяю технику LST каждые 3,4 дня На сегодняшний день влажность 63% Растение растёт хорошо. генетика радует. Всем мира и добра! #Smail_Seeds
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my friends growers, arrived at the 5 week of flowering, everything goes well. end 5 week blooming
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Hifi 4G seems to be a bit sensitive to the current and previous feeding levels. Had multiple leaves exhibit nutrient burn. Otherwise all seem to be happy. Hifi 4G, NL/Skunk and Blueberry continue to lead the pack on Bud development. God I hope I don't screw this up!
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@Roberts
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Big Fat Wedding Cake is growing good under the Spider Farmer G5000/UVR40 lights, In the Athena blended line nutrition. She is bulking now and has a aroma that is developing. She has a nice layer if frost going as well. Everything is looking good. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and DutchFem Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au G5000 Light Amazon Link: amzn.to/4643esa UVR 40: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR7SGTHS Discount code: saveurcash (Stackable)
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@PoshGrow
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Welcome to Auto Alaskan Purple Grow by PoshGrow! 🍀 Week #9 2020 September 17th. - 24th. General Info: When planted: 2020 July 23th. Week: 9 Days: 56 - 63 Last Update Day: 2020 September 23th. Plants: 5 Alaskan Purple Auto. Equipment: Tent: MarsHydro 1mx1mx2m or 39"x39"x72". Light: HLG 260w V2 Rspec QB Kit. Exhaust: 4" 322 CFM fan + Viper Carbon Filter. Intake: 4" 100 CFM Inline Fan. Oscillating Fan: Lower: 4" Ram Fan. Upper: 9" Voxon Box Fan. Humidifier: Taotronics TT-AH001. Dehumidifier: Pavlit MD750. Soil: NPK soil 40% Compost, 50% Peat Moss, 10% Agroperlite. Pot: 7 gallon Fabric Pot x 5pcs. Nutriens: Fox Farm Trio. PH Correcton: Chemoform pH-Minus Granulat. PH Pen: Cheap Chinese one, I callibrate it every time I use it. Water pump: Digital microscope: cheap Chinese USB X4, 1600X. Comment Everything going perfect, girls becoming fatty. I will remove biggest fan leaves blocking budsites and just keep them happy.
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@Hashishi
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Lemon tree has a strong erotic base
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Mar 31st Week 16 Changed nutrients to straight Dense Bud Compactor 1 gram/ litres @ 900-1000 ppm for 2 days CR # 1 showing signs of root wrought I removed the slimy parts of the roots and will watch closely On April 2nd I will add the rest of the nutrients to the existing solution April 2nd Fresh nutrients today, all nutrients added 8 litres of fresh water + 6 litres of the existing Dense Bud solution @ 1100 ppm CR # 1 is dying due to root wrought I removed most of the roots today. I changed all the water today with this one. I’m hoping to get it to harvest, but things don’t look good. I will probably flush this soon to harvest what I have. CR # 2 is doing fine as far as roots. Buds are smaller on this one but may fill out more with the Dense Bud Compactor. April 6th Switched CR # 1 to flush solution Root wrought was sever and unfortunately 90% of the root mass had to be removed Time to save what I have
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Just starting vegetative stage as it looks like we made it through a week of seedling stage very nicely ! Watering about an ounce every 36 hours! In all these plants are like 10 days old. Keeping them in ac germ kit ppfd for smaller ones is 185 and other one is 200! Have added nothing just going with the original 75% promix ap with 25% worm castings! See you next week
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Всем тем, кто следит за мной здоровья и удачи, надеюсь вы в безопасности. Наступило время вновь обновить «HiFi 4G» от «Dutch Passion» в далёких генах которого есть Fire OG. Уже четвёртая неделя от прорастания семечек. Прогресс на лицо. Я планирую выращивать клонов с нижних веток, именно поэтому я сделал дефолиацию на ранней стадии и не стал формировать крону, так как нижние ветки растения будут клонированы. Дефолиация полезна не только тем, что открывает свет боковым веткам, но также огромные листьев не забирают важные гормоны роста. В этот раз не стал добавлять какие-либо удобрения, а пролил обычной водой с пониженным PH. Так же я подключил дополнительное освещенье полный спектр LED по 27W. Теперь я оставлю растение в покое и буду ждать, когда отрастут ветки на клонирование. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To all those who follow me health and good luck, I hope you are safe. It's time to re-update "HiFi 4G" from "Dutch Passion" in the distant genes of which there is Fire OG. It is already the fourth week from the germination of seeds. Progress on the face. I plan to grow clones from the lower branches, which is why I did defoliation at an early stage and did not form a crown, since the lower branches of the plant will be cloned. Defoliation is useful not only because it opens the light to the side branches, but also because the leaves do not take away important growth hormones. This time I did not add any fertilizers, but spilled it with ordinary water with a low PH. I also connected additional lighting with a full range of 27W LED. Now I will leave the plant alone and wait for the branches to grow for cloning.
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@willertex
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📅 D71 - 10/01 📜 New week. No res change ✍️ 1.5 EC ♒ 5,5 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 90 cm 📅 D74 - 13/01 📜 Res change ✍️ 1.5 EC ♒ 5,5 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 90 cm
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@Grow4ever
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Bisher noch die kleinsten Buds, dafür aber ein toller süß-zitroniger Duft. Alle haben auch etwas mit Nährstoffproblemen zu kämpfen. Ich gehe von einem Stickstoffproblem aus, wahrscheinlich ausgelöst durch meinen PH Wert von 7, da ich Anfang mein Leitungswasser nicht gefiltert habe. Ich habe nähmlich eine Gesamthärte von 5,7 gehabt und die Karbonhärte davon betrug 5,2
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@BudHaks
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Hey, there peeps! Apologies for not updating my diary as I have been quite busy balancing non-plant responsibilities -.-! Anyway, we are now on day 75 since I ordered my equipment and started germinating my seed and day 71 since I placed my seedling in her first Coco pot! She is now a staggering 4 foot 2 - which was overwhelming considering this is my first grow and orginally only cleared out 2/3 of my cuboard but now it uses the whole space but she's coming along so well! I have also added a LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 50W Red COB as I wanted some extra light for the bottom half nuggests. She is very healthy (I assume from the strong healthy roots) and hasnt shown any major defects other then the initial defects i encountered in week 2-3 and slight light burn on the top cola in week 7 which was from the plant growing so quickly and touching the light, but I did then adjust the light within 2-3 hours. What do you guys think and how did she get so tall consdiering she is an auto-flower and the strain is meant to be indica domiant?
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In Woche 8 bei den BlueberryMuffins war viel los. Die Sanlight musste täglich neu auf die 40cm Abstand gehängt werden. Hier und da wurden immer mal wieder ein paar Blätter entfernt die Triebspitzen verdecken oder so dicht gewachsen waren das es zu einer schlechten Luftzirkulation gekommen wäre. Die zweite Lage vom Scrog-Netz wurde installiert. So können die gestreckten Triebe wieder etwas ordentlicher untergebracht werden und werden dazu etwas gestützt wenn es in die Blüte geht. An den Stangen vom unteren Scrog-Netz wurden noch zwei PC-Lüfter angebracht um unter dem Blätterdach für etwas Luftzirkulation zu sorgen. Den optimalen VPD zu halten war etwas schwierig bei dem Wetter zur Zeit. Die Temperaturen lagen um die 24°C und die Luftfeuchtigkeit um die 60%. Mit kurzweiligem Lüften des Raumes ging es immer mal wieder in die Richtung der angestrebten 50%. Da werden es die hoffentlich bald kälteren Tage wieder etwas angenehmer machen den VPD in den optimalen Bereich zu bekommen. _____________________________ Düngen : Gegossen wird mit Wasser das min. 24h mit einer Aquariumpumpe in einer 10L Gießkanne in Bewegung gehalten wird. Davon wird soviel genommen wie es die Ladys verlangen und mit dem einen oder anderen Zusatz versetzt. Je nach Stadium der der Ladys. Ab ungefähr Woche 5 wird mit 10% vom Topfvolumen gegossen. Das ganze wird in drei Teilen mit einem Abstand von 20-30min gegossen. Tag50 gab es für die BlueberryMuffins 1ml/L PowerRoots, 1ml/L PureZym und 1ml/L PowerBuds. Das ganze wurde auf einen ph-Wert von 6.5 gebracht. Es gab je Lady 1L in den Topf und 200ml in den Untersetzer. An Tag52 gab es 1ml/L PowerRoots, 1ml/L PowerBuds, 1ml/L PureZym, 1.5ml/L PK 5•8 und 2ml/L StickyFingers. Das ganze wurde auf einen ph-Wert von 6.5 gebracht. Jede Lady bekam 200ml in den Untersetzer und 1L in den Topf. Tag55 gab es 1ml/L PowerRoots, 1ml/L, 1ml/L PowerBuds, 2ml/L PK 5•8, 2ml/L StickyFingers und 1g/L BioEnhancer. Das ganze wurde auf einen ph-Wert von 6.5 gebracht Jede Lady bekam 1L in den Topf und 200ml in den Untersetzer. ________________________________ Höhe gemessen ab Substratoberfläche #1      62cm     #2      66cm #3      37cm     ______________________________ Licht Abstand:  40cm Watt:        100W (50%) Ppfd:         550 DLI:           24
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@Mospeada
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Beginning of week 7 in flower, only two more weeks left if they ripen like they did last time. Plants are beginning to smell, develop triches and fattening up. They're not going to get any taller but compared to my first grow they're double in size. It's getting really intense. I'm in there every day checking humidity (on the no defol side) and I'm starting to struggle keeping up with the feed. During lights off I've found the plants eat the most food. I topped up the res, added 25% more PK. I try to keep the plants at 700 ppm and in the space of four hours it dropped to 600 ppm (towards the end of lights off). I stopped directly loading with Calcium Nitrate and instead used a regular calmag. I'm about to go overboard with Calcium Nitrate again and bump the ppm up to 1k. Will see how far the ppm drops the next day. 17/02/20 Update: The plants are beginning to smell a lot more, it has that kind of fermenting pungent smell from a red paw paw but applied to a mango. Very sweet, it literally smells like I'm growing some kind of tropical fruit. Still struggling with the feed, I added close to 40g of calcium nitrate and the plants still dropped the ppm lower than when I boosted it. I find it really frustrating that Dual Fuel only sell as a pair. Part 2 is amazing for late flower. Potassium sulphate and Magnesium sulphate, it's the perfect PK boost and I don't know anyone other nutrient like it. The other PK boosters always have too much P. 18/02/20 Update: Still battling my plants and the efforts to keep up with them is still frustrating me. Ran out of potassium Sulphate and bought Bio Diesel Rhino K 0-0-15 as a substitute, talk about expensive but I was desperate. 19/02/20 Update: Uploaded how I pump calcium into my plants this late into flower. They eat more than what I showed daily. That's 100+ ppm of Ca everyday! I don't know how much pectin this plant has now but the Brix would have to be through the roof compared to my first grow. 20/02/20 Update: finally got the feed right for a twelve hour period. I'm using two times the amount of K any bloom booster recommends and I'm probably using ten times the amount of calcium easily. I'm also going to feed as minimal N from now on, I'd cut it out completely if I could but I rely on Micros for the macro nutrients. Spent $65 on that bottle of potash and I used a third of a bottle for one nutrient change, think I'll stick to using powered water soluble potassium sulfate. My main concern is that I won't be providing enough iron with the little Micro I'm giving it. Going to throw a couple of rustry nails into the res. I'm about to do a top up...dropping the Micro super low, putting minimal part 2 in. Along with all the fulvics, humics, kelp and other acids my ppm only sits at 244. Which gives me plenty of room to load up on calcium. Top up the mag cause what was in the part 2 wasn't enough then load K. 21/02/20 Update: The plants finally stalled and took a breather yesterday. Didn't upload any photos cause it looked the same as the day before. By the end of the evening it looked like the explosive growth started back up again and the photos from today will show it. The ppm was creeping up not down this time...finally over feeding them. Dropped the extra loading of calcium and potassium to regular bloom phase levels and bumped the chelators up instead. Update 22/02/20: plants aren't eating what they were. Ppm is remaining stable at 800. I won't dilute the res just yet. Still holding off to see if it goes up again. If it goes down I'll refeed the same formula as last time that has reduced calcium and potassium.