Woche 5 03.08.24 - 10.08.24 Das Wachstum geht ungehindert weiter....! Diesmal konnte ich leider keine Fotos machen, da ich in der Woche wenig nach den Pflanzen schauen konnte. Dafür kleine Zeitraffervideos von der Zeltkamera. Die Pflanzen zeigen leichte Anzeichen einer Überdüngung. Daher wurde diese Woche nur bei jeder zweiten bis dritten Bewässerung gedüngt. Außerdem wurde die Beleuchtung umgestellt von der Lumii auf 2x Sanlight Evo 120er da sie endlich nach mehrmonatiger Verspätung angekommen sind. Die Werte Temperatur, Luftfeuchtigkeit und VPD füge ich nachträglich noch ein. Die Behandlung mit dem Neemöl bringt leichte Besserung. Ab Montag kommen noch Nematoden zusätzlich mit in die Box, da ich ab jetzt nicht mehr das Neemöl benutzen möchte aufgrund der langsam voranschreitenden Blüten.

This the last day of them been in vegetative stage. End of 8 th week. Did defoliation , going grow pass the net trellis I am sure. But they manage to handle the cutting & bouncing back… it do get cold in here when the light is not on. Hope that it doesn’t affect her growth….

#1&2: Big Bud Projekt #3: Bonzai 20.10. Claudia legt langsam wieder los nach dem Umtopfen. Rosi hat sich jetzt auch langsam an das Wasser gewöhnt. Bonzai schlummert ;) 22.10. Jetzt gehts looooooos! 23.10. ..erstmal chillen ;)

Heeey guys! A rather fast update this time, right? I was always 1 week late with the updates but decided to speed things up a little this time! 😋 And now, to summarize this week I'd say it was fun! 😃 While I was still unsure if I wanted to go for 8 colas or just stick with 4 (I wasn't 100% sure last week! I'm a very indecisive person!) and after taking into consideration all the pros/cons and my own skill level I decided to just stick to 4 for now. I don't want the buds to fight for light and since this is my first time doing main-lining I'm sure I might end screwing things up with 8 colas. 😗 Besides what I mentioned earlier I did a lot of trimming (had to cut the remaining branches and extra foliage!) and gave a friend some cuttings of my babies! (after all I had 8 spare ones from each plant!) I also went for a more aggressive with LST since I know I'll need more space between each in the future colas! 💪 I also moved Boomer to a new container, she was getting somewhat crowded in such a small space! (I'm so impressed she's growing so well right now!) 😍 You'll once again see two time lapses showing how my plants were growing, I hope you all will enjoy them! 😉 Probably I'll stick for one or two more weeks in veg (I want the plants to grow a bit more before going into flower) but so far most of the work is done. Thanks everyone! 😊

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

And im in first flowering Week since last sunday, so far i really can't complain. Everything looks healthy and fine. Plant 3 is still kinda weaker/slower and Plant 4 seems to want to do some sativa things and grows up like hell but oh well, at least Plant 1 and 2 just grow as they should. This week i made the Bio Tabs compost tea for the first time and the plants seem to love it. Each one received 500ml if it. Can't wait to see the results at the end of the run. Again thanks to Bio Tabs for sending it out so i can test it. Humidity was pretty high because of constant rain this week, but it seems like i have made it through it, now just to make sure to finish this run before the summer heat will come. I removed a few leaves here and there because they were stacking or blocking light, i will defoliate in 1-2 weeks for real. Sadly Plant 4 needed an even higher stool then last weeks, so it's on the same height as the others. It was getting not enough light this deep down. That is also because why the scrog net does look like it does right now. I try to make it more "appealing" tonight, but i don't want to break anything and it works like it should right now, so yeah it looks stupid but it's alright. See you next week and thanks for all the likes and comments. 😍🙌

Going great so far except the 2 Gorilla Zkittles are still a little far behind but they are starting to bounce back! Day 18 everything finally transplanted in 5 gallon pots except the hulk berry is in the 3 gallon, hopefully the 1 small gorilla zkittles hits a growth spurt soon🤞🏼

Took the cut as I said I would got 6 off the galato and 4 off the MCMOG....it amazing how 2 becomes more would have more tree of the same to cut nxt cut🔥🔥💨💨💨

One more week i believe

Hi everyone I chop her down day 86 and let her dry in 19° temp and RH 65 % I'm going to slow drying for best results 7 to 8 days She is very dense and sticky bud and so heavy too I think she yield over 150g plus but the bud are not 100% purple its mix with light purple and green ass you can see in pic or video but still I'm very very happy and already germinate another purple lemonade 💜 next week I will update smoke reviews and final dry weight 😀

its plugging along well!

3rd week of growth, she has beautiful and big leaves, envore a little low, I gently mix with fertilizers and she grew up saw eye. I think next week we will see the beginning of flowering

My Rainbow Saltz plant has some lighter green leaves, so I gave it a dose of calcium this week, hoping they'll darken up. One of the branches wasn't keeping up, so I pruned it off. Now the shape of the plant is perfect for fitting against the wall in the tent. It's been a challenging week with the constant rain and ridiculously high humidity. Keeping things dry indoors has been a real struggle. Despite the weather, I managed to flip all my feminized photoperiod plants to flower this week. I'm hoping the switch will go smoothly, but with this humidity, it's going to be tough.

Day 63. Both went down. One more "What if" for me with funky colours ;)))) Day 72. Both girls went for curing Happy Growing !!!