this plant is in Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil and will get straight de chlorinated tap water til week two veg.

Se realiza transplante, se realiza poda apical para su próxima orientación de ramas 2 - 8 agosto

On to the dry

these ladies like to get wet every now and then...so i figured the shower is a nice temporarily spot for them.. that means......yes..i am a stinky bastard at the moment 😌

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

So, I start the harvest last week, but didn't get time to post here, first were the top bud, and this week I got the rest of the plant, it is a good strategy as the lower buds could develop a little more! Amazing growth! I am very happy with the wield, it was my 3 growth at all and my first LST! Great results! Thank you all for the support! Now I will stop for 3 months, going to Africa for a little bit! :-)

I'd like to title this Diary entry Screw You Advanced Nutrients. 7th week done.. 3 weeksish left on the Lsd-25 and 4 weeksish on the purple Lemonade.. Gonna be some chunky mothers. Purple coming up everywhere, pretty colours. Oh yes we are very pleased so end of 7th week for these ladies and stretching has stopped thank goodness and we are now into bud building/mass building. The two lsd-25 plants definitely went into full flower "mode" sooner. The Colorful lady seems to have benn mass building all week. Probably gonna have different harvest windows on these ladies. Was hoping for same time but it's okay we are creative and will figure a way ahead. There is some CO2 being fed in the tent. With a smaller co2 bucket. We will be trying out a new one for us and it is a product called dense from green planet. We will using dense when the regular reservoir change is suppose to happen. Before we feed only Dense we will be prepping the ladies with an extra feeding of GP3 micro. Buffering the leaves and prepping the uptake for the feeding. So with dense there will be only a feed of Dense with UC roots and ph down. The formula of dense is 0-0-62 so this is a very concentrated Potash supplement. We will be using 1/2 recommended doses as per our system and it's requirements. This will run for 4-5 days and significantly increase the Amount of Potash in the Plant fear not.. The next 2-3 days will run with just phed water then onto P-k spiking with Bloom Booster alone. At this stage Massive Bloom formulation would be great as well but we wanna cut out our nitros while still have some micros.. So we will feed smaller amounts of GP3 Micro with Powdered bloom booster, rezin and liquid weight. Right up until we do a 3 day flush before harvest. Nutrients and Light is the idea so we will see turn outs and everything. If you are wondering what is the difference between the plants and the lady on the left looks so burnt. Left side only fed Flora Series w/ Advanced Nutrients supplements the plants on the right side is fed only Flora Series with Green planet supplements. The nutrient formulas provided in this diary are for right plants only. We can not express the amount of disgust we feel towards Advanced Nutrients as we spent good money on their product and feel genuinely ripped off. The words smelly disgusting mess describe what happened when we added big bud to left side. Bottle smells fine but the Formula is obviously way off as we did not have issues like this when using it the first dozen or so times. We will be using chemical nutrients and powders for life now and will not use Advanced Nutrients again or recommend it for anyone. The Organic Big Bud Formula is no good for hydroponic growing and they obviously rushed it to market to make money..... We really wanted to finish with Advanced Nutrients being the supplement on the left side but we can not. The product itself has basically made it impossible to continue confidently using any Advanced Nutrients labeled as both Organic and Safe for hydroponics. The proof is in the pudding and so glad and happy really now that we are using Green Planet and continue on this trend of cleaner greener growing and a more intelligent approach. On a further note just to go a bit further Bud Candy for example contains sugars that are basically present in Black Molasses. So what they've basically done is filtered and bleached Black Molasses and watered it down and are selling it to us at around 40 bucks a litre. Bunch of crooks Screw you Advanced Nutrients.

This past week was a busy one. Put a lot of work into the grow space and prepping them to switch. Moved over to the 5x5 tent and set up the netting. Went through a lot of defoliating spread out through the week to make sure it went as stress free for the plants as possible and then lollipopped the plant before changing over to Flower (remember this is my first time growing so didn’t want to overdue it). Me and the girl spent some time and Cleaned out the tent completely and finally got around to cleaning up some of the wiring throughout. I flushed all the plants with RO water (only pH) and then 3 days later i mixed in and topped all pots with fresh soil mix (FFOH, worm castings, and perlite). Drained and cleaned all pots and the tank, added in new water with a mix of cal mag, big grow, and tiger bloom (half amounts of everything) with PPM just over 1000. Switched over to flower just before this post so fingers crossed and hoping the next few weeks go smooth 🤞🏽 **Side Note** - Got a steal on some tents/lighting so decided to get things setup for my next grow. Got a handful of seeds I’ve had my eyes on and getting ready to order some more equipment and even a Centurion Hybrid Trimmer. So be on the lookout for my future grows!

Ladies have taken off! Finished week 2 with no issues in sight. I’ve been working my yoga poses to get under the scrog to clean and spray some essential oils for pest management. Also added some sticky traps, haven’t seen anything, not even a gnat, but can’t be too careful this time of year. I’ve been pushing her nutrients and got close to 1100 ppm, some slight burn at the tips was noticeable, but nothing else. Did some defoliation and the smells are strong! Perfect terp profile that I’m looking for, Gas, funk and skunk 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨 Happy Growing!

Strong plant no nutrients needed drying out

The single plant of BADAZZ from RIPPER SEEDS harvested a very good amount of 67 gram of dried bud. The buds were not very big, but insanely frost and dense, she was the SECOND BEST YIELDER in the HOMEBOX tent. A VERY DANK VARIETY! She reeks of KUSH and also tastes like it when smoke a very fully, gassy aroma and taste, VERY DELICIOUS!

Nutrients are the same as the week before, as they seem to be happy and healthy, changing out the res didn’t seem like an efficient use of nutrients. I have added 15ml of tea and 10ml of CaMg+ into the 55l res over this past week. As I could see the slightest touch of chlorosis on the biggest girl of the bunch. This has naturally raised my EC from 0.72 to 0.89. Both plants either side of centre were topped on D25. They were both working on their sixth node at the time and I cut them both down to their third node, but just below the forth (so it has a stump). Middle will probs be topped in a couple of days time, it still has some catching to do. I will be changing the res out on D27, but I will post that nutrient mix on next weeks journal.

She has her own room now! Inside this VIVOSUN 5x5 the canopy is being supplied with 35,000 - 55,000 lux (650 - 950 ppfd) by the spiderfarmer SE7000. I also installed a UV-B fluorescent light on a timer to run for 30 minutes before the se7000 turns on. I did some light defoliating and retied some outer branches to open up the canopy. Feeding following the general hydroponics 10 part table for late blooming/ripening - subbed liquid koolbloom for dry koolbloom at an introductory rate of 1/4 tsp/gal. Also added GH Ripen @ 4ml/gal.

Niente da dire, stanno crescendo piano piano, questa settimana non aggiungo acqua perché ancora abbastanza, la prossima settimana controlliamo dinuovo, se necessario cambieremo l'acqua e i

Gorilla Glue #1 - Harvest Comment - I Am Very Satisfied With What I Got, I got 3 ounce 7 grams - I Uses Advance Nutrients PH perfect In veg then I switch to the iguana juice organic juice for the flowering stage. I notice a much more slower growth when I switch to organic nutrients.00

PeaceAndLove🌴.

It has been about a year since my last diary had to take some time off. My wife had cancer. We had to take care of that now I'm back. Maybe I can get a diary or 2 .