Day 55 - 18/11/19 i still think another 1-2 weeks for this one, getting a jewelers loupe for the beginning of week 9 so i can tell exactly where were at in terms of harvest :) anyone got any thoughts on this little plant? have a look at the photos and videos and let me know in the comments below :) oh and i finally nailed what this strains smell is - tropical hubba bubba gum with cheese :'D Day 59 - 22/11/19 Got my jewelers loupe 2 days ago and ive been having a look at them. its pretty hard to see for a newbie grower. ive looked at harvest guides online and seen pictures of clear, cloudy and amber trichomes. mine look mostly cloudy (60%) and slightly glassy (40%) with barely any ambers. i may be wrong but the reason i think its cloudy is that it looks white against the leaves instead of see through or like glass. so going on this for my first trichome inspection im gonna harvest in the middle of next week. Smell is getting strong enough to stink out a room, still that tropical cheese smell, although its just so pungent it lingers in the rooms after bringing it out of the tent to inspect it. smell isnt a problem if you put it back in the tent and spray some air freshener stuff in the next room. the carbon filter is doing its job exactly as described along with the fan. The fan leaves started to get yellow patches and sugar leaves starting to curl. and a friend thinks its nearing the end of its life. I flushed yesterday and will flush again today to drain out any excess salts and nutes. Thanks for following along. im excited for week 9! Happy Growing!

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2309 Well growmies we are at 28 days in and everything is going great 👌 👉 So the low stress training👈 has been going great she's gonna be a big girl, shes in full flowering mode so let the stretch begin 👌 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

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Second week of flower out the way plants coming on well had a nice stretch over the last two weeks , one week to go before give them a good defoliation, conditions been spot on and haven't had a issue yet so hopefully all stays well till harvest

Going out of town for a few days so decided to rig up an automatic reservoir top off system. So added a new 15gallon "pre reservoir" with air stones and a timer pump. Every 12 hours it will kick on and send 2 gallons to the main res, where there is a float valve to shut off at a high water level. Also the tent has a flood sensor if tripped will kill the power to the pre pump. Should be safe to leave for a few days.

So happy with the result of these gals. Harvested at around 15-20% amber on the tops of the colas, will be pressing the lower buds and trim with less amber into rosin :) They really grew into massive hulking monsters with colas the size of my forearm :0 I am so impressed and proud to call this my first ever grow. I learned so much and I am so hyped to put all this knowledge into the next grow.

So to start, I did a small leaf strip a few days ago. I like to do small leaf strips ones a week the last few weeks of flower. Now not big, Im Talking 15-20 leaves tops. Don't want to over stress the plant at this stage but also want to make sure the buds below are getting enough light. The temperature has dropped a bit outside so the tent is running cooler then it was. Honest it got all week was 22.5c, but also only got up to 20c one night. Unfortunately this tent is right next to the door out of my grow space so all the cold air is coming through. Going to need to look at replacing the door with something that fits a bit better, or look at adding something to this door to help. Next to that the plant is looking amazing so far. Looking forward to smoking this in the coming weeks. Well happy growing everyone!!!!

Looking good! I gave up on #1&2 the soil was just a bad mix. Think Ill give it 1 more week until I start flower.

These are from round 2 - is something else - enjoy 😉

Will update once dry

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Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Going slooooowww as always. Everything is healthy.

5/30 update: both plants have been jarred for curing! A little disappointed with the over all yield but a lot to learn from this first grow! Expert seeds gg#4 comin next 👌0

First week of Budding went well. Growth was about 4-6in. Hairs appeared in some areas. Trimming some of the big Fan Leaves today to make room for more light toward the bottom of the stock. I wasn't anticipating the plant to get this large I'm running out of room probably should have started budding a week earlier. But we will see how this turns out... Since I saw hairs signaling flowering, I did Start with its first watering with Tiger Bloom.

Seems all good. Not using any growth technique, just letting the bushes to take form (yield not the biggest objective here). Also not adding nutrients as so far the growth is ok. Added a dehumidifier as the grow room was mad humid. Now stabilizing to 50% RH. Looking forward for the auto to starting flower so I can enjoy some nice high in a 4 weeks!

Defoliated some of the bigger fan leaves, I know it may be risky technique but since she has grown into the tent, space is tight and in order to maximise flower sites, I decided to remove some foliage to get better coverage. Flowering is taking off and have decided to increase the dosage of the nutrients to see if she can handle the feeding, she has grown quickly in the last couple of days and want to see if I can push her to the maximum. Healthy and happy plants, no more issues with spidermites (Thank goodness!), no more needing to treat a flowering plant (if I had to, I would drench the plant in a mixture of H202, liquid dishwashing detergent and water to ensure that buds are not covered with nasty chemicals). Clones have been taken and in this pic, can be seen that it has rooted, clones were taken off during defoliation session during 2nd week of flower.