Really healthy plants :) looking like they’re starting to bulk up. Started to add more nutrients towards the end of this week

Day 24-31 (Day 25) The smell in here is absolutely ridiculous. My last grow didn’t smell even close to this bad in early flower. (Day 27) Stretch is finally all done. #6 in the back is very stout and barely stretched compared to everything else. I doubt it will yield much but I’m excited to see the nice tight colas on it. It seems to be still getting adequate light and raising it up is hard to do with a scrog net so I will just leave it. If it wasn’t getting enough light it would be stretching right? The early frost is really shocking to me. My last indoor round definitely wasn’t this caked and I’ve never had an outdoor plant on this level either. That’s also true in terms of smell too. (Day 29) I’m still debating whether I should feed anything in flower or just leave it. The only deficiency I’m seeing is purple stems from P def which could actually just be from light intensity rather than a lack of P. I’ve done some thinking and I’ve decided to only feed my small plant. What I’m most curious about is if a PK boost will actually make any kind of a difference in flower when it comes to bud size and smokability. So to test this theory I will be top dressing a teaspoon of 0-18-0 bat guano, a tablespoon of 1-4-2 Destiny launch and a half strength watering of 0-0-15 kelp extract. I’m trying to avoid N all together as I just toxed my guinea pig plants with another experimental flowering PK boost that had a very small amount of N in it. This plant in particular actually has very early signs of N def and probably will fade harder than the rest. (Day 31) Shit. Looks like #1 is starting to herm. It’s definitely not environment or light leaks so maybe it’s just genetic or the recent leaching stressed it out too much. Either way, it’s only a single lower branch and I’m prepared to cut her down if I start seeing anymore. I double checked every other budsite but couldn’t find anymore. In my experience true herms usually start pushing bananas out of the main tops and plants like mine can usually be salvaged with little to no seeded bud. But then again it’s day 31, when these things usually start to happen. I’m 50/50 on this one. I will be watching it everyday like a hawk if anymore show up. The breeder I’m using, ‘Jordan of the Island’s’ is notorious for having unstable genetics and this will be the last time I run any of his stuff. The quality is good, certainly better than most European and Dutch genetics I’ve run but I know I could do better where genetics are concerned. I can’t wait to start hunting my archive dosidos x gelato 41 and in house sugarcane.

its been a hot dry week but the girls have fared it well. mound design and soil content have helped keep moisture in the root ball of the plants. Hopefully we get some rain this week otherwise im going to be spending a day just watering them. fingers crossed for rain. We need a rain dance here.

Cuttings are growing very fast, we added 2 more lights for a total of 800 W led grow light. On day 11 since have been put in the box we decided to switch to flow as we tought cuttings has reached the right dimension to fullfil the box. Still using only pH 6.5 water with no nutrients

Hi everyone 😁 Welcome back in another week update! Thank you all for this amazing support on this bananas journey💚💚💚 Uploading and updating each week content on daily bassis so please revisit this diary if week not over yet. So far all going great. Girls looking very healthy and happy. Due to my short trip had to leave my 🍌💜👊 girls unsupervised for 3 days. Was stunned when opened my cabinet on the Dec 5th. Athena stretched like crazy. Good 3 inches. She better slow down as not much roof space left for her. May tie some taller branches to netting if necessary. Introducing blooming nutes for the first time this week on December 6th at smaller dosage and on the second watering as listed. Week 8 Dec 4 - Dec 10 Dec 5 Leaves tucking Dec 6 Heavier selective defoliation on both girls. Athena fully lolipopped and Xena at 75%. Watered with 8 ltr beetwen both with perfect runoofs PH 6.4. Girls were very thirsty 🤤 Dec 7-8 Just enjoying how my girls developing. Frost has landed and they are start showing colours. All is looking great. Dec 9 Second watering for this week 7 ltr beetwen both. Runoffs PH 6.4 Even with so much difrence in size of my 🍌💜👊 girls it seems that they are drinking my juice almost equally. Dec 10 Applied selective defoliation and tied 3 tallest branches of Athena to netting to avoid any potential burns on these beautiful baby colas. It's the end of the week! Thank you all again for such a great support, all the likes, dm's, comments and follows 💚💜💚💜 Stay tuned for coming week update 😁✌️💚

Bueno resumiendo cookies gelato es una variedad híbrida muy fácil de cultivar pero ojo, cuidado con los últimos riegos si no queréis perder cosecha por moho. Lo demás de 10 pegada heavy sabor increíble, cogollos duros como rocas y bañados de una gran capa de polen. El ambiente del secado se mantuvo en 23 grados de media y la humedad estuvo por debajo de los 45% en todo momento. Poco más la verdad estuve encantado de poder cultivar una genética tan potente . Un saludazo que paséis un final de año increíble y por supuesto buenos humazooos💨💨💨.

Note : + jegliches Zubehör wird in der GermniationsWoche aufgelistet . Zeitraffer Videos folgen immer nachträglich. + videos werden so geschnitten das nur ein geschlossenes Zelt erscheint , ergo Fehlen paar reale Minuten (ca 1 Std) . Day 71: Da Phase III , zeigen sich nun deutliche Mangelerscheinungen . Einige Blätter werden aufgefuttert :)) Day 72: + 1.75 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte Generative Phase III + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + + + Canna PH+ + + PH 5.82 Day 73: Trichome sind schon OK . Viele Bernsteine . Ergo 8 Stunden Dunkelphase als Erntevorbereitung. Die Schwester bleibt noch im Zelt und hat dafür Besuch bekommen von der Apple Fritters dessen Platz im 160cm x 60cm x 60cm zu klein wurde. Final : Komplett Entlaubung . Cut . UpSideDown into the Darktent . Danke an alle Likes und Watcher und Follower . Es hat viel Spass gemacht und mein 2. Grow ist entscheident besser geworden als der Erste !!! Wir sehen uns nach dem Trocknen und vor dem Curing . + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Day 74: ZOE'S SCHWESTER + 2.0 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte Generative Phase II (Düngeplan siehe Germinations Woche) + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Green House Feeding - BioEnhancer (vorher 8 Minuten im lauwarmen Leitungswasser aufbereitet) + + PH 5.9 Day 75: ZOE'S SCHWESTER Heute werde ich mal etwas defloration betreiben da es doch recht dich ist und ich mir etwas sorgen mache was im inneren so abgeht . Leichte Entlaubung abgeschlossen . Day 76: ZOE'S SCHWESTER + 2.0 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte Generative Phase III (Düngeplan siehe Germinations Woche) + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + + + Canna PH+ + + PH 5.9 Day 77: ZOE'S SCHWESTER Heute macht das Wetter mir unter 55% Luftfeuchtigkeit und ich kann kühlen. Bringt zwar gar nichts in der letzten Phase. Aber so ist es halt. Ich geh also Baden und lass die Tür offen ;)) Da ich hier noch 1 am Trocknen hab und eine Nachbaring im Zelt die auch gerne mehr Feuchtigkeit hätte , muss ich jetzt zwischen pest und kolera wählen . lieber für die Ernte oder lieber für nahende Ernte oder ganz auf den Neuling ... Ich hab mich für die Ernte entschieden , die sollte nie und nicht Schimmeln :)) Woche 11: Day 78: ZOE'S SCHWESTER Die 11 Wochen seit Samensetzung sind rum . Sie macht sich gut . Und die Trichome sehen auch schon sehr nett aus . Aber noch ist das Trockenzelt nicht frei . Also bekommt es noch Licht bis das Zelt frei wird . Woche 11: Day 79: ZOE'S SCHWESTER + 2.0 Liter Flaschenwasser + + PH 7.49 Woche 11: Day 80: ZOE'S SCHWESTER Sieht super an den Spitzen aus. Ein Meer aus Trichomen. Kollege meinte das muss Schimmel sein. Microskope strafte Ihn mit lauter Trichomen. Woche 11: Day 81: ZOE'S SCHWESTER Trockenzeit wird eingeleitet . Morgen dann ins Trockenzeilt für paar Stunden längere Nacht und dann UpSideDown zum Trocknen aufhängen . Woche 11: Day 82: ZOE'S SCHWESTER Ist trocken genug , ab ins Dunkelzelt . Woche 11: Day 83: ZOE'S SCHWESTER Totalentlaubung , UpSiteDown . Trockenzelt. 480g nass mit Baum. Woche 12 : Trockengewicht 90g

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Weekly update on these beautiful ladies. A little late on the update I was out of town for the weekend and couldn't get to it before I left. They're Growing amazing and wow did i come back ti a jungle. They'll definitely be getting a defoliation and lollipop this week as it's needed. All in all Happy Growing.

This was a fun project that was a few years in the making and a year later to see if they would last a season for this upload to happen. Before any of this I would bike aorund town grabbing up all the old Ikea solid pine bed slats that I could find and storing them in the basement. I have a lot of wood down there, any size worked as long as I have enough of them. The hot days to find them were the first and last of the months because that's when people where moving in/out. I also kept an eye on the free section on local online classifieds as well. The entire purpose of this was to recycle as much off the streets as I could before buying anything to finalize the project. In the end I only bought sealer, screws and some takeaway/beers. All the wood was 100% free and salvaged off the streets of Toronto saving it from the dumpster bin. After collecting all the slats for about 2 years I was playing aorund with them on how I wanted to make this work. I had previously done a little project like this before but I messed it up and the boxes where crap. did not last longer then 2 seasons, they where thin and shallow as well could not grow much of anything in them. I Was talking to my friend who is renovating their house and we brainstormed some ideas on the boxes, I found some designs I liked online and said lets make something like this out of what I have here. We tossed out a few of the design features when looking at them as it would have been wasted wood and extra work not needed. If I had more wood them maybe it could have been an option but simple was the name of the game. They taught me what I needed to know like how the miter saw and sander worked, plus all the other tools I was using. They did help out with a table saw and creating the triangle support joints in the corners, They used some pine left overs they had while making a staircase indoors. I did not feel up to the task of using a table saw given all the relatives I know who have lost a finger to them. In the end we decided the design would be three boards high and take an alternating pattern on corners. layer one short, layer 2 long, layer 3 short. Went with a galvanized and painted deck screw so it can take the weathering. Ran into some problems like making everything level as some of the boards were warped and other ones had undesired aspects like knots and tacky sticker goo I could not remove. So I used them for the base that will not been seen so much. Clamped everything down and called it a day. Once it was all done and over with, I then brought them back home from my buddies work garage and started to seal them. I went with a boiled linseed oil as its a food safe option should the wood degrade into the soil I will plant in them. I will need to reapply it to the boxes year after year but the main coat is the most important one and I put it on 3 layers with a good dry in between coats. the inside of the boxes that where coated did not degrade at all as the sun did not hit them so it will not need a new coat just the outside. Overall the end result was very impressive for myself, I've never taken a woodworking class ever and It was a near perfect outcome for me. Heavy Duty Planter Boxes for all my gardening needs. I made a last min decision to add in a plastic liner to preserve the wood even longer and stapled that into the frame. it has held up quite well and may need replacing end of 2nd or 3rd year out in the sun. Used a thick moisture wrap plastic with UV protectors in its formula. Lets see what I can grow in them this year! m0use's haus of projects - garden box edition

So I really wish I could say this last week has been all sunshine and rainbows, but it has not. First well start with the good. Plant FINALLY stopped growing right at the best spot possible. Light is basically maxed out as far as it can go up. I could still do still do few things to maybe get a extra 1-2" but I'll wait and see if I'll need to. As you can see from the photos there is a massive amount of stacking going on with the buds. Words can't describe the excitement I have to see how big they all get and the yeild of the plant as long as I don't have anymore hiccups. Now the bad... didn't have any run off for a few days so I gave it a solid watering and got lots of run off. Run off that had a ppm of 2500..... almost 1300 ppm above what I put into it.... well fuck. So I gave it a flush tell I I it down to 1700 because I didn't want to keep putting water into it. Next day it had bounced back up to 1900 so did a small flush again and got it down to 1400 ppm. Then yesterday it had jumped back up to 1700 so I decided to change how I water it. Instead of giving it a massive feeding ones a day and having the coco dry out probably more then I should, I'm going to split the quantity in half and start giving it 2 feedings a day. 1 when lights turn on and another a hour before lights turn off. Hopefully I'll still get run off both times so that I can test it. Hopefully I'll get this corrected before next week. Well that's all everyone Happy growing!!!

Week 2

Start of week 6 everything is going great training advances at a good rate and she looks very lush and green

Hey guys :-) She is developing great. This week was poured 1 time with 0.2 l each (nutrients see table above) Otherwise, everything was cleaned and the lady sprayed with Fast Plant Spray. For the time being, it remains under the hood with high humidity. have fun with the update and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 https://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/affiliate/MadeInGermany_PassionGrower 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/choco-cheesecake/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Use the coupon code: madeingermany for 10% on all Amsterdam Genetics seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

At the end of week 4 the northern lights feminised is going steady with no signs of deficiency but fading of the leaves have begun. The growth has ceased with most of her energy is being used for bud formation. Most of the internodes have been filled at her stem. As the plants aromas increase the sweat floral scent has now got a touch of spice. The super skunk feminised will be fed as required keeping a close eye on the moisture levels.

The Trop Cherry was harvested on day 56 and dried in the tent at around 16-20°C with a humidity level of 60%. After a week, she was ready to be trimmed and then spent another two days drying in a cardboard box. Now the buds are in their container for curing. Updates to follow Dry Weight - 40 Grams

Veg: She got a long 5 months 1 weeks of growing and growing so big. Kept the feeds up and she drunk everything she got given to her, kept drinking and drinking them foods. I gave her the growth technology grow for the first 4 months of veg and the last month I gave her both growth technology grow/bloom, hydro Coco grow for the last month of veg stage. Gave her so much HST in month 3-4, just kept topping wherever I could, bending her over wherever I could. Really trying the stress her out to make her stretch and stretch. Started to see some real growth in her in the last month of veg stage, just seeing her doubling in size every week till we got in to some true flowering. Flowering: so we got about 8 1/2 weeks of flowering which was amazing. At the beginning of week one we saw some little flowers and by the end of that week we had some beautiful flowers starting to appear. I start pumping as much bloom feed in as I could I was still giving her the grow feed, but slowly bring them down by the end of week 2. We got some amazing weather other these weeks of flowering were we saw these bud truly start to go bigger and bigger, maybe the weather was a bit to hot for the plant at some points in the early flowering as we got some leafs burn from intends sunlight in the greenhouse. In week 3 we had a weekend of extreme heatwave over the country hitting highs of 34c witch in the greenhouse was getting up to 45-50c too hot!!! The water system failed on this weekend as well, what really hit her hard. I did think we was going to loose her that day when I went to see her. From that day I think we all realized that we have to keep a good check on the watering if the days were going to be so hot. I took all the small stems off the plant and really open up the bottom so we could get some more airflow over these really hot weeks we had, it was amazing to get this weather in the UK. Week 4 we did really start to see them buds coming everywhere, the middle of the plant was stretching. By the end of week 4 I think she did stop stretching and started to fatten up. I cut the growth feed out in the end of week 2 but I think I should of kept it up with the bloom feed till we got in to week 4. We was loosing a lot of leaves all over the plant when we got to the end of the stretch, so I pumped her some growth feed with all the same feeds she was on at the beginning of week 5. We did see a lot of leaf improvement all over the plant, with new growth on all the main clones. This played a big part in getting them buds fatter and fatter. Getting to the end of week 5 I stop the growth feed and just gave her more bloom and pk boost double. We really did see some buds popping up everywhere which was amazing and we had no real popcorn corn buds cause of opening her up. Week 6 she was drinking and drinking up everything we would give her no problem, got to get so much food in to her. She must of drunk over 30l of feed mixture doubled in this week. Started to look a lot bushy all over. When we hit week 7 them buds were fat and starting to lean around everywhere so had to give a bit more support, I tide the main clone to the four main canes and then tide all the side clones to wherever I could. She still drunk 25l of double mixture over this week and the temperature in the nights was getting so low this week it would of been getting to 8-14c, then greenhouse did still get nice and hot during the day up to 18-26c