Day 34 she’s a little droopy and upset with me. She would have preferred to be watered last night. Oh well she will perk up in 15 mins. Looking beautiful and started to flower now she got defoliated a tad bit she’s looking wonderful. Very happy with how she’s chugging along.

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 👉WE R ALMOST AT THE FINISH LINE👈 Growmies we are at DAY 63 and there just killing💀it👌 👉We are in full on flowering , gotta say the pink to redish hairs have gone away which is a bummer 😕 but the frost 🍦 is strong 💪 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes on the first few feeding 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm still doing some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Habe die letzten Tage mal bissel entlaubt paar Fächerblätter und kleinzeug so das auch mehr Licht ankommt 🏽

The time had come for Lady Candy. About 20% of the trichomes had turned amber, so I decided to harvest it. I estimate that I will get about 30 g of dry buds, but we'll see in a few weeks.

Lots of bud sights, starting to smell strong now, plants healthy and drinking plenty,

Day 22/12 — CLDC A - growing so beautifully — All others are growing fine — Environment stable — Vibe: 🎄 "Merry Christmas ya filthy animals" —Home alone Day 24/14 — Began LST on CDLC A — Ladies all making great progress! Day 27/17 — Watered; No nutes — Trying not to compare my progress to others — Vibe: 😻 Weekly Avg Readings — Lights 18/6 - Level 6 — Temp: 70 (ideal) | 70.6 (avg) — Humidity: 60% | 59.9% — VPD: 0.80 | 1.00 kPa "You've got to be really dialed into exactly who you are to the one hundredth power or you're just everyone else." — Ye

Moinii, Die Frozen Black Cherrys sind mega frosti und riechen derbe nach Citrus und Kirsche. Sie werden langsam etwas größer, aber nicht viel – dafür werden sie zunehmend klebrig. Die Emergen-C dagegen wird richtig fett und saftig und duftet immer noch intensiv nach Orangenschale. Jeden Tag gibt’s neue Veränderungen, einfach geil die Ladys! Bin richtig gespannt, wie’s weitergeht. Bis nächste Woche :)

Saludos a quienes visitan mis diarios ✌️🏾 Me pueden seguir en IG: @elcoquigrow para compartir más contenido e información del mundo cannabico 🙌🏾

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Now that the plant has started flowering, I defoliated the excess leaf, focusing on apical buds. But unfortunately after defoliation and pressing the lst unfortunately plant b5 breaks the stem in its main apical bud. I was very sad but in life we have to learn from mistakes and stop complaining since the other 4 plants show good growth and vigor we will move on trying to minimize the errors.

primera semana despues de la germinacion , las fotos son justo del dia despues del transplante , le puse mykos microrizas y velokelp de remo

Day 70!!!! Girl, she looks amazing, this week I removed some leaves to give her a lot of energy for the flowers:) the girl drinks every 2 days, she has a lot of flowers, which are getting bigger, firmer, stickier every day :) it makes me very happy:) good luck to everyone.:)

En breve a flora

💐🌟HESI contest🌟💐 💮 29.3... 💮 30.3 All right, we are waiting for them to swell and start to smell, new irrigated today 💮 31.3 💮 1.4 happy birthday to Hesi who turns 25 in business today 🎉🎊🎉🎊 💮 2.4 💮 3.4 💮 4.4 ____________________________________________________________________________________ ❕❗❕ Do you already know HESI products? Take a look at the details You will be fully satisfied 😉 👀 https://www.hesi.nl/en/products 📜 A look at the details of what I'm growing 📜 🍓🍌🍇Strawberry Banana Grape by Seedsman🍇🍌🍓 ⚧ Gender ▪️ Feminised ➰ Genes mS 🎄 Genetics ▪️ Strawberry x Grape x Banana OG 🚜Harvest ▪️ 400 - 500 g / m² 🌷Flowering ▪️ 60 - 65 days ✨THC ▪️ 15.0-20.0% ✅CBD ▪️ 1.0% 🏡Room Type ▪️ Indoor 🌄Room Type ▪️ Outdoor 🕋Room Type ▪️ N/D 🎂Release Year ▪️ 2019 __________________________________________________________________________ 📷🥇 Follow the best photos on instagram 🥇📷 https://www.instagram.com/dreamit420/ 🔻🔻Leave a comment with your opinions if you pass by here🔻🔻 🤟🤗💚Thanks and Enjoy growth 💚🤗🤟

~ FASTBUDS TESTER #2205 ~ Well friends, here we go on another 'canna-venture' together! The grow room has had a complete remodel and some upgrades done to it including brand spanking new 4x8 and 4x4 tents and a Trolmaster Hydro X controller along with a new Control Panel. This tester strain is one of six tester strains that FastBuds has graciously provided me with and I'm looking forward to seeing what this girl has to offer when she's grown to her full potential! One drawback of 'testers' is I have little to no information on it other than its number and that it's an autoflower... 🤪 But, it's ALWAYS a blast growing them for me because not knowing a lot allows me to just concentrate on the essentials: Light, Environment, Water, Nutrients and possibly a bit of LST... not complicated, just basics like keeping a constant temperature and RH in the tent at a level that gives a good VPD, watering when almost dry and maintaining proper light levels according to their stage of growth. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ~THE SETUP~ ~Initially seeds were lightly scuffed, then soaked for 3 hours in 78℉ distilled water after which they were transferred to moist paper towels laid out in a Jiffy Pellet plastic starter tray with lid. Underneath the tray was placed a Mars Hydro Heat Mat with Controller that was set to 78℉ where they stayed until their tap roots emerged. ~Planted into Jiffy Peat Pellets that were hydrated with distilled water warmed to 78℉ with a 7.0 ph. ~Once roots emerge from the Jiffy Pellet they're transferred to their fabric pots. ~Grown 100% organic in a 4g Gronest fabric pot and a 3g fabric pot by Wraxly filled with Mother Earth 70/30 Coco/Perlite medium and initially amended with Dr. Earth 4-4-4 / Earthworm Castings / Dr. Earth Flower Girl 3-9-4 and Coast of Maine Stonington Blend Organic Plant Food 5-2-4. ~19/5 light cycle for the entire run with supplemental UVA added during flower. Lights are controlled by a Trolmaster Hydro X controller set for a 15min Sunrise/Sunset simulation. ~Top dressing every 3-4 weeks with slow release dry amendments and Earthworm castings. ~Straight water ph'd @ 6.2-6.8 when needed and bi-weekly Compost Tea's. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 12/29- Here we go into Week One of Flower! It's been a month since these pretty ladies popped out of the ground and they're both looking perfect and have pistils popping out everywhere! Their fabric pots were still heavy when lifted, and they looked happy, so I skipped watering today and will check them tomorrow morning after the lights come on. Since being topped roughly a week ago, they have two new shoots that are emerging and looking extremely healthy with excellent vigor and have a beautiful healthy green color! The #1 is now at 7" tall and the #2 a bit taller at 9". 12/31- Today was a 'dry day and all I did was refill the humidifier and some canopy maintenance, tucking shade leaves and gently bending branches. It's been a little over four weeks since they were planted in their amended medium and it's time to give their microbes a good feed so they can continue to provide them with all the macro and micro nutrients they need so, yesterday they got a good watering with 0.5g of de-chlorinated water with GreenGro's Veg, Flower, Green Aminos, Natures Brix and Granular Myco added to it @ 1.5 tsp/g and then ph'd to 6.4 @ 73℉. 01/02- Today I watered them from the bottom with 0.5g of de-chlorinated water to which I added 3ml/g of Earth Juice OilyCann cal-mag to prevent any Cal-Mag issues they may encounter before they arrive. I also have the HLG 650R set 36" above canopy and it's set at 60% power which is being controlled by a Trolmaster HydroX controller. The tent environment is on point with temp's running 70 when the light's off and 74℉ with the light on. I'm keeping the RH at 55-60% right now but will drop it as flowering progresses. Finally, I've been keeping the VPD in the tent running 0.85 - 1.05 which I'm happy with! 01/04- They have both been doing really well getting watered every other day and yesterday they received 0.5g each of de-chlorinated water with 3ml/g of Fish Head Farms Fish Sh!t Soil Conditioner which was then ph'd to 6.3 @ 72℉. They're both doing fantastic but were really beginning to get choked up with growth so I went in and selectively removed a few shade leaves from both to get some light penetration down into their canopies to give that lower growth some much needed light. While I was doing that I also did a little more LST on both to also increase light penetration. Well, there goes another week in our journey and I'm looking forward to the coming weeks as flowering gets cranked up! 😍👍 😎💚 Thank you for checking out my passion in life! Please visit as often as you wish and I hope you enjoy this journey as much as I know I will! Grow Strong! 💪😎🤙