The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Day 154 03/10/24 Thursday De-chlorinated tap water flushing today with flawless finish. Absolutely gutted... She has decided to develop seeds and Hermie on me 🤦‍♂️ Disappointed after such a long investment grow 😔 But we move... I will flush her rest of week and possibly next week depending on the seed to bud ratio. Frustrated to say the least 🤣 Picture update 💚 Day 155 04/10/24 Friday She hasn't got any new noticeable beans yet, only spotted 5 in total, 1 in each top in the far corner, it's so strange. Any advice or thoughts on what may have caused this please comment 🙏💚 Picture and video update 😎 Day 157 06/10/24 Sunday (End of week) De-chlorinated tap water with Plagron PK13-14 to just help with nutrients. Again upon looking today I can't see any noticeable new growth of seeds, and she is developing new pistils and bud growth again all across her tops, thank FU£& 😆🙏💚
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@buddha61
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10/14 - Another week of flower begins. I'm guessing 2-3 weeks for the 5g plant left, longer for the 3g plant. 10/20 - A week down. I am undecided on this soil. Either these are heavy feeders and yellowed quickly, or it isn't the longest lasting bagged 'water only living soil' We will see how the smoke turns out, but I am thinking I might end up chopping the 5g plant next week.
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Hey everyone 😎. This week she was completely defoliated around the bottom 😃. Everything turned out exactly as hoped 🤗. She looks great and is just beginning to develop her buds. I am very curious how it goes this week 😃. I wish you all a lot of fun with the update, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.barneysfarm.com Strain : Blue gelato 41 clone from mother (Barney's Farm) ☝️ Genetics: Blueberry x Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies x Sunset Sherbert 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow LED HLG Quantum Board 100 W ( 200 W ) 💡 Flower lamp: 2x Todogrow LED CXB3590 205 W = ( 410 W ) 💡 ☝️ Soil : Canna Terra Professional + ☝️ Fertilizer: Canna Terra Vega , Canna Terra Flores , Rizotonic, Cannazym, CANNA Boost, Pk 13/14, Canna Cal / Mag, Canna Ph - Grow, Canna Ph-Bloom ☝️🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EG. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3 💦 💧
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Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Hey guys :-) The lady develops more and more beautifully into a bush 👍. She will now stay in the vegi for a few more days before she comes to the flower tent :-). During the last watering, I started with Fast Plant. I am happy to finally be able to put it in bloom again. This week it was poured 3 times with 1.2 l each (sewing materials, see table above). The tent was cleaned and all plants checked for health 👍. Fresh osmosis water was prepared and filled into canisters for the next 2 weeks. Otherwise they were admired several times a day 😂. With the next update we will see each other in bloom again :-). Until then, I wish you all a good start to the week. Stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. You can buy This Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Strain Gelato clone from mother (Zamnesia ) ☝️ Genetics: Wedding Cake x Gelato x Gelato 33 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8
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Bruce Banner#3 See of green project Featured grow by and exclusive for Original Sensible Seeds,  BTB Grow Supplies & Mars Hydro Day 56 07.00 today they bloom exactly 20 days 40-45 to go, defoliated yesterday and give water alone, ph regulated with a little nitrogen, that's it for today ... see you tomorrow Day 57 07.00 good morning my loves, oh it starts so deliciously a touch of earthberries and no that's not imagination, also they get pretty sticky now oh i can not wait to harvest and test, never pulled up such a simple plant as Bruce Banner 3 Day 59 09.00 All perfect today 😂😉🙃 Day 60 8.22 Only feed them today all seems good to me my ladys growing and growing no trouble at all with this strain 😀😉🤣 Day 61 08.00 at the moment the ladys are in full production today they are fed again and further i just leave them alone ... see you guys tomorrow Day 62 08.00 good Morning , I didn't water them yesterday, here and there they are getting wider and fatter, otherwise they are more than good temp now on 23.9 at night to 18 ° C ph today 6.1 ppm 960 Lights: 12/12 Humidity: 53% Ph : 5.9 Water: 35l  23°C CO²: No Mercy Tabs Ppm: 950 Plagron: Terra bloom 157ml Plagron: Green Sensation 35ml Plagron: Sugar Royal 25ml Plagron: Pure Zym 00 ml Plagron: Power Roots 00 ml Light distance: 35-40cm 1x MarsHydro eco 120 220w 1x MarsHydro TS 3000 Air Van: 800m³ Prima Klima   AKF : 800m³ prima klima 3 l water cooling airco Diamant... 3.3l humidifier 1.8l dehumidifier Humidity control: Inkbird IHC-200 Temp control cooler - heater: Inkbird ITC-308 1.5x1.5m² Custom Grow Room All seeds comes out  #originalsensibleseeds so they have 100% of 100% Bruce Banner the 3. hits the ground and i really hope he gets angry as fuck and shows me the green big guy sleeping inside him ...                            S.O.G.              ☠️☠️☠️🌶️🌶️☠️☠️☠️ Thx to Linda Seeds, BTB Grow Supplies, Mars Hydro as our exclusive sponsor of our group The High Community & Zamnesia for supporting this grow. Zamnesia unconsciously because they sent me my seeds 2 times but I'm very grateful for that...
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@Luke_Lee
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——————————————— WEEK 9 / DAY 58-64 BLOOM WEEK 2 / DAY 8-14 Mars Hydro FC-E3000 Floragard Professional GrowMix 11L fleece bags Light: 50cm Schedule: 12/12; PPFD: 875umol/m2/s DLi: 38mol/m2/d 20° C - 65RH 2L per Plant Hesi Bloom Complex (5ml/2L water) Hesi BOOST (2ml/2L water) PH 6,5 Fan, extractor and pump ON 24/0. ———————————————————— - DAY-58 / Bloomday-08 The second week of flowering begins. The plants are doing very well so far and are developing magnificently. They have gained a lot of leaf mass since the time change. The light has been adjusted PPfd: 875 / DLi: 38. - DAY-59 / Bloomday-09 Today each plant was watered with 2L of water with 4ml Hesi Bloomcomplex and 2ml Hesi BOOST. - DAY-62 / Bloomday-12 Today, at the end of the second week of flowering, the plants were little defoliated. They were then each watered with 3 liters of water with 2 ml HESI BOOST and 4 ml HESI Bloomcomplex. - DAY-64/ Bloomday-64 The last day of the second flowering week.
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ULTIMA SETTIMANA DICHIARATA DALLA BANCA, VEDIAMO QUANTE SI AGGIUNGERANNO FINO A FINE CULTIVO
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Both shot up in size over the past week or two, ones at 113cm other now at 130cm, tallest has been bent over and tied down to hopefully stop the growth, coming along well now and can't wait for the next few weeks to pass, First ever grow only done LST on 1 plant let the other grow naturally but put a few ties on it this week to get more light exposure as it seems way behind the other and there is only actually about 2 days in them, what are peoples thoughts on how its looking? Thanks
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Hey everyone 🤗 The stretch is clearly visible this week. They all look very healthy, and it's fun to watch them explode every week 😎 My watering interval is as follows: Light on: 3 min on / 50 min off Light off: 2 min on / 1 h off. This week I will defoliate everything downstairs. I look forward to seeing you start blooming next week until then all the best and let it grow 😎 Edit : in the last pictures everything was defoliated 😎
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En las hojas se ven las manchas del oidio residual.. por el momento está inactivo, pero no se si volverá, lo que sí se seguro es que cuando corte, voy a hacer bud washing e intentaré traerlo aquí al diario. Lo haré con el objetivo de acabar con toda espora y residuo. Por otro lado, habéis visto los tonos taaan oscuros de morado que están cogiendo las hojas? Incluso una partida por la mitad mitad verde, mitad morado oscuro! Seguramente las deje una o dos semanas mas, osea, esta y quizás la siguiente, quiero sacar el tricoma ambar, no todo pero si un 40/60 blanco/ambar..
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10/20: I foliar fed her today with some SP-90 humic/fulvic acid and kelp me kelp you. She will probably get fed again tomorrow. Drying out quickly- 10/21: I applied Axiom again today..I sprayed her with the finest mist I could produce..tops and bottoms of all leaves to the point of runoff. I fed her about a 1/4 gallon with nutes. I put another big fan in the closet and turned off the evap cooler for the night so she'd dry out better. 10/22: I used a stainless steel skewer to poke a bunch of little holes in the lower part of her fabric pot to try and improve oxygen availability to her roots. I also carefully arranged the garden so that there are gaps between all the pots. I think I'll also space my waterings a little further apart. The topsoil is drying out well enough, but I don't want her roots sitting in muck. 10/23: She's flowering now, and starting to stretch a little bit. After observing signs of nitrogen toxicity yesterday, I realized that I made another rookie mistake...(where is my head??) The new 5 gallon bucket I'm using to mix a batch of nutes must be about 2 inches shorter than the one I had been using, and I never bothered to calibrate it....which I did today. So, for the past couple of feedings, I've been mixing in enough nutes for 5 gallons, but in only 4 gallons of water!!! I foliar fed with BoomBoom Spray and gave her about 8oz of boomerang and cal-mag early in the morning, and by 5pm she looked happier. Compared to the hybrid seedlings in the space, she's got very narrow, sativa-looking leaves..should be a treat!😋 I raised the lights about 2 inches today and dialed the ac infinity's high temp trigger up to 88f for a bit to get her to dry out a little faster, so the RH climbed a little higher as well...so I also set the ac infinity's high humidity trigger threshold to 65%. 10/24: I fed her another little dose of boomerang and cal-mag, along with some bembe and open sesame. 10/25: I fed her about 1/4 gallon with everything except Grow Big. I'll flush her on Sunday or Monday with Sledgehammer and only foliar feed with fulvic acid and boom boom spray until mid-week. Then I'll give her a good douching with humic acid, myco, tricho and beneficial bacteria and bembe(molasses and beet sugars/rock phosphate/trace elements) to keep the microbes thriving. I'll go heavy with P and K later in the week. 10/26: Last day of week 4 and she's doing great! Her pot is still pretty heavy after her feeding yesterday, so it will probably be Monday before I flush her.
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Youtube video coming soon Check the other diairies! Along with harvest and bud pictures in the next couple of days! I love this strain no doubt
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Went on a ski trip didn’t get to upload last week. Flipped Pineapple Express Pheno 3 today so it got 77 days of veg compared to all the others that got 60 days of veg.
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@mr_smooke
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we pass 5. week, in this week i been spred my girls and make some defoliation. she grow nicely week by week. in next week i will flip them on flower mode. tent is ollmost full