it's amazing, this growth looks much better than my first attempt, my decision was to put a smaller pot and change the light - the girl really liked it, FastBuds goriilla cookies with a small space manage perfectly:).

Doing great. Bottoms cleaned, waiting for a day or two to do a major defoliation. 17.11 Vast defoliation. All the bottom leaves and mids. Left around 4 top fan leaves On every branch. 19.11 Plants recovered perfectly, light is back to 100% . Unfortunately my Bluetooth app for mars hydro stopped working. Light cannot pair anymore with the app. Also irrigation is changed to vegetative crop steering.

Plants will be moved into tent next week and new ones gonna be set under the light without tent to maximize yield

After 48 hours of darkness, the time had come and the Purple Lemonade were ready for harvest. Since she reacted very well to the training and grew with enough space between the buds, I decided to dry upside down. Dry weight and smoke report follow after curing. Stay tuned...

Transplanted from 0.25 to 1 gallon pot This is the first transplant of two. I will let these build.a root ball for 3 to 4 week and then do the final transplant into a 7 gallon pot. Installed blumats as well for irrigation. Crover crop added

d.64 more a forest than sea of green ;)

These two girls are moving along just fine in the 3 gal pots.Was going to transplant these two into bigger pots earlier on but decided not to.They are in a 60 inch high tent and I want to keep them short and stout.I did a lot more defoliation and fed some cal mag and recharge this week.I did top dress with Gaia green power bloom and they seem to be taking it nicely.

Day36, 37, 38: Seems to be growing a set of leaves per day now. Super growth! Stretching to the top. Day39: I had a hiccup with the camera. For some reason it stopped responding at 04:30 in the morning. I only realized it much later. I still don't really know why, but reseating the data ribbon fixed the issue. Day40: After fixing the camera, I decided to take this view again. The Lady is starting to show some nice growth and this view will show it best. If you look carefully, you'll see that her branches are not green, but rather reddish. Definitely related to genetics :) Everything else is within limits. Plus, the leaves look super healthy. Day41: Here you can see the stem colour better.

Vokser virkerlig ektremt godt og some den skal ;) er ca 7dage i dag imog hvad hun kan optage af gødning allerede er vanvigtigt dette bliver eb gigant hvis den ikke bliver holdt nede eller hst evt tusind tak til kannabia for sponsoret frø i er for seje har 2 amnisia lemon i vand pt til spiring de kommer på i morgen best regarts therealNICOGREEN

420Fastbuds-FBA2505 I'm excited as it's tester time. Germination week is complete. I planted 3 seeds and had all 3 sprout within 48hrs of being in the soil. I do soak them for 48hrs in a glass of water before planting. I can't wait to see what the weeks to come will have in store. Happy Growing

420Fastbuds-FBA2504 I'm excited as it's tester time. Germination week is complete. I planted 3 seeds and had all 3 sprout within 48hrs of being in the soil. I do soak them for 48hrs in a glass of water before planting. I can't wait to see what the weeks to come will have in store. Happy Growing

Nice start. No heater until week 3

420Fastbuds-FBA2501 I'm excited as it's tester time. Germination week is complete. I planted 3 seeds and had all 3 sprout within 48hrs of being in the soil. I do soak them for 48hrs in a glass of water before planting. I can't wait to see what the weeks to come will have in store. Happy Growing

420Fastbuds-FBA2503 I'm excited as it's tester time. Germination week is complete. I planted 3 seeds and had all 3 sprout within 48hrs of being in the soil. I do soak them for 48hrs in a glass of water before planting. I can't wait to see what the weeks to come will have in store. Happy Growing

Did a pretty good job on my first grow

Day 15 Update : Decided to grab a tape measure to check canopy heights on a whim and discovered that my light was hanging 35 inches from “Cellie” Cereal and Milk . Wowzers 👀! So I raised the plant to be 26 inches from the light that I also dimmed down to about 40% . It works out that I can try to get the most out of the end of flower stretch for the older gal who shall no more than be mentioned for reference to accentuate the great glorious glamorous “Cellie”. The humidity plummeted after I did a major defoliation of the older gals so I adjusted the airflow rate of the lower in-line fan and the upper inline exhaust fan with the carbon filter . I lowered them both to the lowest setting & the humidity returned to “normal” Let me explain my reasonings/thinking behind my adjustments which are experimental at BEST. It’s worth also mentioning without having to preset a single thing on my 70pint Dehumidifier located inside this tent it is legitimately only plugged into my PRESET humidistat controller which is set to 50%-46% RH WITH an alarm on highs of 55% and lows of 43% . In real life what this translates to is when this humidity controller triggers the dehumidifier ON @50%RH immediately the fan of the Dehumidifier begins running. However this does not help the rising humidity that is occurring (it will reach 55%-60.2%RH ). Given a fixed amount of time , the condenser(atleast what it sounds like . .again, it could be anything) turns on . It is when this “condenser” “sounding” component begins working that the humidity IMMEDIATELY plummets down to my low point of 46% So to make a long story short the humidity gets vacuumed to 46%RH & the dehumidifier turns off, bc of the PURPOSEFUL EXPERIMENTAL TWEAKING making all air exchange fans low leveled the humidity slowly but steadily rises to 50%RH then the dehumidifier is triggered on but only the fans initially and the humidity eventually reaches 55%RH-60.2%RH & then the humidity gets all its hair snatched out by the dehumidifier and drops back down to 46%RH. 😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨 with all that said of anybody was even interested per my tents leaf canopy height temperature average good to great OR LITE GREEN TO DARK GREEN VPD for my temperature begins @ 60 & ends @ 52 which is kind of a perfect storm for OUR GIRL “CELLIE” oooooooorrrrrrrrrrr sssssssoooooo I think/hope . She still hasn’t needed watering since being transplanted, she should now ready and willing to stretch those toes and we need the opportunities to top water that soil a few times to make those dry amendments available to her . More pics of later the week coming as we go . . Hopefully . Diligence is a practice Day #17: giving her some water today, no specific amount just until she feels the right amount of “heavy”. She was given 3 different batches of water once ph’d to 6.3 once ph’d to 6.7 one ph’d to 6.5. She’s grown an inch in 2 days. Also swapped out the smart hygrometer system to a different brand . So far it has all the capability I was looking for but I need to run 2 more experiments to know for certain it lives up to my needs and its price tag 😁 Day 18 Update: she grew an inch taller nice 👍 The smart hygrometer system has reported/experience Bluetooth failures twice already(although I don’t know exactly what that means considering I purchased this for it’s Wifi capabilities ) I didn’t think to check it whilst I was away so I cannot yet say If it meets my final expectation/need I bought a soil ph meter & it indicates “my mix” is at 3.1 ph 👀 hmm 🤔 I’m wondering if this is a must fix or can I get by .eventually she will be transplanted and at that time I can use my new digital soil ph probe to construct her new blend moving forward but I am curious is I mixed another batch at 3 something ph would it matter ? In the beginning I wasn’t ph’ing any of my watering just because I assumed my soil mixture was highly acidic because of the 70ish pecernr peat moss base . I also assumed that it would be acid fixing for the water I put in it and therefore wouldn’t need to ph it and I did just fine just giving plain old tap water when thirsty until I experience VPD issues & in an effort to pinpoint what my exact issue was and how to fix it I of course eliminated all the variables and dialed in on my ph of my feed water and now my soil so it leaves me wondering does the soil need to be relatively 6.1 ph or is the 3.1 I’m flying at alright also . I checked the other 3 currently in here getting through flower & two of them are in the 3’s for ph & one of them is 6.2(the largest of them all) how ever she was the largest of them all always and oddly enough I mixed one big batch for them and transplanted them at the same time so I get two of them having the same ph as “Cellie” but the other that is in ph heaven is an oddball Should I top her here or supercrop later hmm I need to decide my vision for this thing Day 19 Update: ponytailed her youngest internode for about 16hrs she aggressively popped out of it twice ! It didn’t even work for 24hrs when I try it again it’ll be before the internode is so strong . Also rigged up a 16in oscillating wall-fan that currently being held with 2 zip ties , 2 rubber bands , & a smidget of duct tape and MAJORITY OF FAITH keeping it in place . The biggest plus to my added circulation is that I got the 16in fan for ! A win is a win . Pics uploads will be held for the next 3 days until the end of week 3 upload . Drop a thumbs up Day 20 Update : THE FAN FELL! But no one was damaged or injured . I re-rigged it . This time with duct tape , 3 popsicle sticks , 2 heavy duty zip ties & 1 regular strength zip tie . SHES SOLID NOW 😂 I did some solid rigging this time & have videoed my handy work . Also I forgot to turn my A/C back on before leaving the house so temps and humidity skyrocketed and swung for 9 hours until I got home . The temp in the tent was 84.4 and the humidity went from 42.4 to 57.5 to 42 every three mins. Day 21 Update : SHES A PRETTY GIRL. RQS says Cereal Milk is a slightly sativa dominant hybrid but the pheno of this particular seed seems to lean more towards indica I’m not mad at it ! I’m getting more stoked to see what she can do. She still hasn’t received any additional water since the a few days 18.

2024, 2160, Tallest bud LI 1600-1800ppfd. Supplementary side LI 1400ppfd. I've really been having a hard time, with a slew of other problems, one by one no remedy seemed to yield answers. Then after much study, what I was looking for found me. I just thought I would share some of my research to prevent other growers from having the same problems I've had. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that points up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You won't get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with too much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) cause a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plant vacuoles resulting in the inability of the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the abstract of the article "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification, and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine. Lesson Learned here for me, lets hope she can recover. Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days.

Strawberry Amnesia is growing well. She hasmd a solution change today. I will likely be changing her to flowering next update. Everything is looking good. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Herbies Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

Runtz Punch is growing strong. She has reached maturity and is ready to flower. She will need some hst at some point for sure. Probably switch to flowering in a week. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Herbies Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

2024, 2160, Tallest bud LI 1600-1800ppfd. Supplementary side LI 1400ppfd. I've really been having a hard time, with a slew of other problems, one by one no remedy seemed to yield answers. Then after much study, what I was looking for found me. I just thought I would share some of my research to prevent other growers from having the same problems I've had. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that points up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You won't get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with too much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) cause a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plant vacuoles resulting in the inability of the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the abstract of the article "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification, and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine. Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days.