Venga familia que ya viene la cosecha de estas Mandarine Panties de Seedstockers, que ganas que tenia ya de darles tijeretazo. Que variedad , me encantó cultivarla , sacaron unas flores bien resinosas y alucinantes. Las flores aparte de piedras, son muy pegajosas, desprenden olores florales. a sido una genética con la que disfruté bastante, fue muy fácil cultivarla. Y a la vez es medio resistente. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: Eldruida https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

sound week on the soil. this grow is really lovely. starting to see some promising bud sites. I think i might trim too much but i want the buds to get the light. the Pineapple Kush is sadly a bonsai in all of this lol. you will see it in the video. will just let it grow.

Finally starting to see some roots underneath and some decent growth up top. I’ll update again after changing out the reservoirs to see if that helps with some of what I think is a nitrogen toxicity.

Flowering progresses and buds site are expanding. Did minor defoliation to allow more airflow through the middle of plants and allow light to penetrate all the buds. Slow and steady week

This week has been great, I keep thinking I’m gonna over fees her but everything I give her she eats up and seems to want more.

🔥🔥🔥 week 12 smashing it! I am flushing the main lined plant, the thai stick looking one and the big purple this week ! 2 plants just on Overdrive and bloom for 1 more week or 2 then onto the flushing The colours on the leaves of the main line plant almost have a blue and gold tone to them, mad! buds are frosty! Buzzing with these autos! 🙌👊🔥 Crazy colours Will update soon 👽👍

So she is looking amazing 🤩 trichomes are very milky and most of the white hairs are and have turned orange and are curling in! At this point she is ready to begin flushing! Preparing for harvest!

🌅🔝🏝️💚

CHERRY 🍒 COLA AUTO / FASTBUDS Week #6 Overall Week #1 Flower This week she's doing good she started to flower this week. It's been really hot here for a few weeks now so for her to be flowering and looking green is a plus. She's dealing with the heat for the most part and looking healthy. Stay Growing!! Fastbuds cherry 🍒 cola auto

I have 7 week-old plants that have more trichomes than 8 weeks wish I could figure out why it's not too hot they've been running right at a temperature of about 82 degrees I was thinking at first maybe it's the topping and the defoliation but I did the same thing to my other two plants which are younger and they have more trichomes

see harvest rating

I have harvested this planet but there was a problem one of my six inch fans stopped working so two bud stems had two small peach fuzz spot of white mould. So I chopped half the planet off with garden secateurs and disposed of straight away, and after inspecting the over half of the plant finding no evidence of mould I washed with warm water. It is now in quarantine drying in my shed. That was the reason I haven't taken pictures in case my shed gets broken into 😂 so until next time ✌️ out my fellow Growmies and all going well I should have a very small amount of weed for dry weight and smoke review

Es läuft ganz gut aber die pflanzen werden bisschen blass, muss ihnen in der folgende woche vielleicht bisschen bitetrsalz geben.

5/4: Her two tops suddenly stretched a few inches. I'll tie them down in the next couple of days and when they get to the third node, I'll top them again. I gave her a little water with myco, kelp, molasses, cal-mag, silica, and humic acid. 5/6: I fed her about a gallon of water with boomerang, grow big, big bloom, cal-mag, silica, and humic acid. This was the last time I'll give her any grow big or boomerang...there's plenty of good stuff to support good growth for at least a month in the Happy Frog dry fertilizer I'm using. I did a little LST on her today...split those two main colas really well and tied them into horizontal positions on opposite sides of the pot. I used gorilla wood glue to seal the split. 5/7: I foliar fed with big bloom, grow big, silica, fulvic acid, and molasses. 5/8: I did a foliar application of Axiom harpin proteins. 5/9: I did a foliar application of boom boom spray. 5/10: She's growing very well now, so I topped all her main shoots and tied them them down to encourage the lower branches to compete for apical dominance. I'll water her tomorrow if it doesn't rain. That's it for week 5

Day 36: "Hey everyone! Just a quick update: I removed a few more leaves here and there and did one last round of LST (low stress training). 🌿 The plants are looking great, and I'm going to let them recover now before sending them into the flowering stage. I'm really excited to see them start blooming in 2-3 weeks! Also, a quick update on our temperature issue: today, the temperature stayed below 26.8°C, which is great news! However, we still need to find a solution to keep the humidity levels up. Our 360 m³/h exhaust system isn't able to maintain the required humidity level. I've calculated that we need a humidifier that can evaporate 1800ml/h to maintain 60-70% humidity, which would help manage the temperature better. Does anyone have tips for a good humidifier or other methods to control the humidity and temperature? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Day 37: Hey everyone! Tomorrow, we're planning to buy some Cal-Mag because we suspect the yellowing leaves might be due to a calcium-magnesium deficiency. We're also going to get a pH test kit to make sure everything is balanced properly. Do you think this is a good idea? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Day 38: Hey everyone! Quick update: it turns out the yellowing leaves were due to a nitrogen deficiency. We increased the fertilizer dosage today, so the plants should start looking better in 4 to 5 days. 🌿 Thanks for all the support and suggestions Day 39: Hey everyone! Another quick update: after increasing the fertilizer yesterday to address the nitrogen deficiency, it should take about 4 to 5 days for the yellow leaves to turn green again. 🌿 We're already seeing improvements! The plants have grown significantly and are developing a dense canopy once more. It's great to see them bouncing back so quickly! Day 41: "Hey everyone! Quick update: we've removed the bands we were using for LST (low stress training) and are now letting the plants grow freely. 🌿 We plan to keep them in the vegetative phase for about one more week before transitioning them to the flowering phase. Excited to see how they continue to develop!"

Hallo zusammen! 👋🍑 Auch meine Apricots entwickeln sich in Woche 10 genau in die Richtung, die ich mir erhofft hatte. Von Woche zu Woche werden die Veränderungen deutlicher und langsam beginnt die eigentliche Magie der Blütephase. Die Pflanzen haben in den letzten Tagen sichtbar an Masse gewonnen. Besonders die Hauptcolas werden immer kompakter und beginnen sich Stück für Stück zu verdichten. Gleichzeitig legen auch die zahlreichen Seitentriebe ordentlich zu, wodurch überall gleichmäßig schöne Blüten entstehen. Besonders beeindruckt mich in dieser Woche die Harzentwicklung. Die Sugar Leaves sind mittlerweile nahezu komplett mit Trichomen überzogen und die Blüten bekommen diesen wunderschönen frostigen Look, der von Woche zu Woche intensiver wird. Man merkt, dass die Pflanzen jetzt ihre Energie voll auf die Blütenproduktion konzentrieren. Trotz des wechselhaften Wetters entwickeln sich die Apricots weiterhin ausgesprochen stabil. Die Blattfarbe ist gesund, das Wachstum bleibt kräftig und die Blüten schieben täglich neue Kelche nach. Dadurch werden die Colas immer massiver und gewinnen kontinuierlich an Volumen. Ich bin außerdem sehr zufrieden mit der Struktur der Pflanzen. Durch das Training gelangt ausreichend Licht bis in die unteren Bereiche, sodass selbst kleinere Budsites hervorragend mitwachsen. Genau das sorgt dafür, dass sich nicht nur die Spitzen, sondern nahezu die komplette Pflanze gleichmäßig entwickelt. Auch der Duft verändert sich inzwischen deutlich. Beim Berühren der Blüten bleibt ein intensives, süß-fruchtiges Aroma an den Fingern zurück, das bereits jetzt Lust auf die Ernte macht. Jetzt beginnt die spannendste Phase des gesamten Grows. In den kommenden Wochen werden die Blüten weiter anschwellen, die Trichomproduktion wird noch einmal deutlich zunehmen und ich bin gespannt, welches Potenzial die Apricots bis zur Ernte noch entfalten werden. Ich freue mich schon auf das nächste Update und wünsche euch allen weiterhin eine erfolgreiche Grow-Saison! 💚🌱 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello everyone! 👋🍑 My Apricots are continuing to develop beautifully in Week 10, and every new update makes the progress even more noticeable. The flowering stage is now entering one of the most exciting periods. Over the past week the plants have gained noticeable size and density. The main colas are becoming thicker and more compact, while the numerous side branches continue stacking flowers, creating a very even canopy filled with healthy bud sites. The biggest highlight this week is definitely the resin production. The sugar leaves are now heavily coated with trichomes, giving the buds a beautiful frosty appearance that becomes more impressive every day. It's clear that the plants are now directing most of their energy into flower production. Despite the changing outdoor conditions, the plants continue to perform extremely well. The foliage remains healthy, growth is vigorous, and fresh calyxes continue forming throughout the flowers. As a result, the colas are steadily becoming denser and gaining more weight week after week. I'm also very happy with the overall plant structure. Thanks to the training, plenty of light reaches the lower branches, allowing even the smaller bud sites to develop into well-formed flowers instead of remaining underdeveloped. This creates a much more balanced plant with quality buds throughout the entire canopy. Another thing I've really started to notice is the aroma. Every time I inspect the flowers, they release an increasingly rich sweet and fruity scent that already gives a small preview of what the final harvest might offer. The most exciting stage of this grow is just beginning. Over the coming weeks the buds should continue swelling, resin production will increase even further, and I'm really looking forward to seeing how much these Apricots can still develop before harvest. Thanks for following along, and I wish everyone a fantastic growing season! 💚🌱

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Primer dia desde cambio de fotoperiodo, recien se pueden ver los primeros pistilos indicando el sexo de nuestras plantas🌱. En unos dias se veran las primeras preflores que nos indicaran que partio la floracion🌺. Muy contento con los resultados obtenidos hasta ahora con tan solo 4 semanas de vegetacion, hemos llenado el espacio super rapido🔥. Se pretende sacar este cultivo en menos de 3 meses, asi como vamos se cree lograrlo!. Las proximas lavores a realizar sera desfoliacion a los 21 dias de floracion ✂️. Iluminacion Sodio 400w al 75% se aumentara en una semana a 100% 💡. Fertilizacion con linea @topcropchile 💥 Potenciadorgenetico @knactive_ ⚡ Royal gorilla🦍 by: @royalqueenseedsrqs 🦁.