The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Hello Diary, Purple Lemonade has reached the end of the second week of flowering. The flowers have started to form nicely. The areas around the flowers themselves are lighter so it is clearly visible where all the flowers are forming, and I have much more motives for taking photos. Purple Lemonade has started to stagnate in growth, this week it has grown 8 cm. At this stage Purple Lemonade has taken its final form and now the plant will direct most of its energy into the development of the flowers. The leaves are a healthy green color and so far I do not show any signs that the plant is lacking anything. Watering was every three days, I continued to add CalMg and Bio-Bloom Fertilizer. The conditions in the grow box are now much better. The temperature is around 28 degrees and the humidity is below 50%. Purple Lemonade is progressing very nicely so far, which I am very happy about. Here is a short overview of the week. 24/08/2024 - Day 31. Watering. I prepared 9 liters of water. I added CalMg 1 ml/lit, Bio-Bloom Fertiliser 1.5 ml/lit and then lowered the p.H. to 6.0. With this amount I watered all three plants evenly. 27/08/2024 - Day 34. Watering. I repeated the same procedure as three days earlier. 28/08/2024 - Day 35. End of the second week of flowering, or the fifth week from the beginning of vegetation. Photographing and measuring the height of the plants. Purple Lemonade - Day 35. - 60 cm That's all from me for this week, see you soon.
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@SooSan
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Grosse grosse defoliation Remise en place des branches Et passage en flo ! Dans l'ordre: 1) Afghan Peach x Blue Monkey 2) Gelato Cake 3) Fast Critical Poison 4) Tropical Fuel 5) Hindu Kush 6) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra) 7) Blueberry 8) Herz OG 9) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra)
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@Sativa763
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Day 49 after switch. very nice i would say :) everything is getting bigger and frosty. no complains so far. last week watering with PK 5-8, then just water until she´s finished.
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Week 3 starting off strong No nuts just yet still letting the Nector of the gods and FF soil just be my main base for nuts. Also I add some cal mag and PH balance the water. I will probably start adding some noots toward the end of the week when I start seeing some more growth. For right now I'm thinking I might let them veg for about 6 weeks depending on the growth in the upcoming two weeks. Hope you all are having a safe and fund grown. Make sure you hit the follow button
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Not much this week. Video that was included for this week is what i have in my grow room. MI6 is last. Video resolution is crappy and will soon invest in a better camera. Others will be posted on separate diaries if willing to look. MI6 went threw a little heat stress. Hopefully will bounce back. Thank you. Also wanna give a head up in the next few weeks as I will not be home much due to the holidays, so pictures and some info are lacking due to my lack of writing down and being home lol.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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@Salokin
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Hello Growmies, As the 12th week dawns on our garden, we've witnessed the culmination of a journey that has been as challenging as it has been rewarding. Watermelon Candy F1 Hybrid #1, my personal favorite, has dazzled us with a mesmerizing fade, displaying a resilience that sets her apart. Her reaction to repotting was a testament to her robust genetics; however, this serves as a learning curve. From now on, our auto-flowering beauties will start life in their forever homes, eliminating any undue stress in their crucial growth phases. Meanwhile, Watermelon Candy F1 Hybrids #2 and #3, though they've faded beautifully, suggest that an additional week could have further honed their splendor. It's a subtle reminder that each plant scripts its own path to maturity, some etching their tales with swift, vibrant strokes, others preferring a leisurely pace to full bloom. With heartfelt gratitude, we extend our thanks to Zamnesia and especially Patricia for the exceptional seeds that have graced our tent. These final snapshots capture the last living moments of these plants before they transitioned to the drying tent, a rite of passage into their next phase of existence. As the Watermelon Candy trio embarks on their afterlife journey, the Red Banana Pudding and Epic Buzz inherit the tent's legacy. With more space to flourish, they promise to carry on the tradition of growth and excellence we cherish. Cultivation is an endless cycle of birth, growth, and rebirth. Today we celebrate both an ending and a beginning, the harvest's closure, and the promise of new growth. It's a cycle that keeps us grounded and yet always reaching for the next level of growth. Stay lifted, Salokin
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UPDATES: - Pushed them a little too hard as you can tell by the pics, pushed temps up to 31/32'C. Pulled temps back down to 29'C, seems to be the sweet spot. -Just waiting to harvest GENETICS: -MSNL - Gorilla Glue Auto ~ my favorite strain, as you can tell by my username! WATER: -Condensed (Starting at 40ppm) -Disinfected prior to adding nutrients etc. (Using COOSPIDER UVC - 253nm & 187nm bulb) CLIMATE: - Ambient Air Temp = 29'C ~ 28'C LST ~ Leaf to air temp variance of between 1'C - Night Temp = 22/23'C ~ Day/Night temp differential 6-7'C - Under Canopy Temp: 26'C (Day) ~ 21'C (Night) - Relative Humidity = 50-60%RH (Avg. 55%RH) - VPD = 1.45kPa (Avg.) - Co2 ranges from 900ppm to 1500ppm (Avg. 1200ppm) AIR PRESSURE: - Ambient Air Pressure (outside tent) = Mean Avg. 1010 mbars (101 Kilopascals) - Actual Air Pressure (inside tent) = Mean Avg. 1005 mbars (100.5 Kilopascals) - Air Pressure Differential = up to 0.5 kPa range between inside & outside LIGHT: - UVB ~ 2 hours daily mid light cycle. - Warm White 3000K/White 5000k/Far Red (660nm) - At plant canopy = PPFD 900-1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 45,000-55,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65 - Under canopy lighting ~ Blue (460nm)/ Red (630nm) NUTRIENTS: - Mostly Advanced Nutrients (For base nutrients and most additives, as only company I could find scientific data on) - Canna (For Calmag Agent and Cannazym) - Plant Success (Great White Mycorrhizae) ADDITIONAL GROW TECHNIQUES: - Mostly getting out of the plants way and letting nature take its course. - Some LST. (i.e. tying down branches and tucking large leaves away) - No HST or Defoliation. INFECTION PREVENTION & CONTROL: Infection control practices i.e -PPE, Alcohol Hand wash -Gray room outside tent, -Carbon filter -HEPA filter -Plasma Ionizer -Inline UV-C germicidal bulb - Also using an additional higher powered COOSPIDER (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. - Ozone (o3) gas that is produced using the COOSPIDER, is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. - Ed Rosenthal (Zero Tolerance organic pesticide), sprayed once a week as preventative measure. On hand for heavier use (Once every 3 days before lights out for 15 days) in the case of an outbreak (No outbreaks yet, due to aforementioned preventative measures)
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@Dunk_Junk
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I cannot believe how much growth this week!!! I think she has doubled in size!! For the first time I've had to higher the light fixture. It is now almost as high as I can put it. I'm kinda regretting not FIMing her now...... I hope she does not grow much more in height!
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@SpartacaZ
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Ringraziando DIVINESEEDS per i suoi super semi divini
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Mad I only had one seed can't wait to grow more 420 Fast Buds
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Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme. Rabattcode für den BIOTABS-Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/ GDBT420, damit erhalten Sie 15 Prozent
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And we have arrived at the end, the last lady branded Zamnesia F1 Hybrid has been harvested, she is probably the most beautiful and largest of all and her name is Pineapple Express F1 Hybrid Auto. I talked about the harvest of the smallest plant last week if you want to go and see the second one go to week 8. As for this one it is definitely the tallest plant, I still have to weigh the dry buds, but it certainly seems to be the most productive plant, there is really a lot of weed in the dry room. Lots of weed in a short time guys don't overlook this factor, I know especially new growers love autoflowering plants like crazy and have also specialized in growing them: you can certainly see the advantage of finishing in 8-9 weeks instead of 12. 2 more harvests per year do the math guys that's a lot of more weed. Lovers of topping on autoflowering plants, an experimental practice for me on these plants and only recommended on strains that respond well and quickly, will be able to finish the plants in reasonable times without stretching out as if they had grown photoperiodic plants. Guys, if you have to do topping on autoflowering plants, either grow very fast F1 Hybrids or switch to photoperiodic plants, we have excellent strains. It makes no sense to harvest autoflowering plants at week 16, with F1 Hybrids even if you do topping you get to 12. Of course, if you need speed and want to do topping, the advice is to choose those that the breeder indicates as the fastest. Our Pineapple Express is burning with resin and very productive, see for yourself, James Franco and Seth Rogen would be proud of us. The main cola has a wonderful shark fin formation that drives me crazy, I photographed it from different angles but when I see the shark fin I become a schoolgirl. The level of ripeness is medium, halfway through the harvest window we have some amber trichomes, many milky ones but also something transparent still, I could have kept it a little longer but as I said several times: I don't like super ripe plants, the pistils were super ripe so for me it's a symptom of mold lurking, in the growbox now there are 40 degrees.... The heat is not a friend of the quality of the buds and resin. So speed also helps us escape the arrival of the most hostile climates. Really a lot of grass in a short time and I fill the jars and have good times. SUmmer and autumn are assured, see you for the super harvests of October-November the best of the year. Strong, fast, stable as promised by Zammi. https://www.zamnesia.io/it/10681-zamnesia-seeds-pineapple-express-f1-automatic.html Feeding is by Plagron with the Power Buds - Sugar Royal - Green Sensation + Alga Bloom combo that drives me crazy https://plagron.com The lights are from Viparspectra p2000 and provide super light www.viparspectra.com/ Tent & Air www.secretjardin.com Music of the week www.radionula.com +++ 432 hz frequencies to keep in line my Girls to Gaia. Site Description ZAMNESIA SEEDS - PINEAPPLE EXPRESS F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC: FRUITY FLAVORS AND ENERGETIC EFFECTS Combining Trainwreck with Hawaiian, Pineapple Express F1 Hybrid Automatic brings a beloved strain to new heights. This autoflowering F1 hybrid cultivar ensures exceptional uniformity, reliability, and stability, making it well-suited to growers of all experience levels. If you haven't checked out the Pineapple Express F1 hybrid Automatic for yourself just yet, now is the time. GROWING PINEAPPLE EXPRESS F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC It takes 8–9 weeks from germination before Pineapple Express F1 hybrid Automatic is ready to harvest. Thankfully, very little effort is required throughout the growing process, aside from a bit of maintenance, to ensure large, high-quality harvests. Thanks to its F1 genetics, Pineapple Express F1 Automatic offers superb resilience and uniformity, meaning all plants will have a similar height and appearance, and will churn out comparably large yields. Reaching heights of 50–70cm, Pineapple Express F1 Automatic is not an overbearing plant and can effortlessly slot into any setup. Once ready to yield, growers can expect returns in the region of 400–550g/m² indoors and up to 200g/plant outdoors. AROMAS, FLAVORS, AND EFFECTS OF PINEAPPLE EXPRESS F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC Just one hit of Pineapple Express F1 hybrid Automatic treats users to a rich assortment of flavors and aromas. This strain offers strong pineapple notes alongside moments of citrus, spice, and pine, making for a mouth-watering blend that's extremely moreish. Bolstered by 21% THC and an array of cannabinoids, Pineapple Express F1 Automatic showcases an energetic and uplifting high that will have you feeling chatty in no time. So if you've been looking for a strain to enjoy with friends, Pineapple Express F1 Automatic might be just the thing. All F1 Hybrids and more and more and more on www.zamnesia.io
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Some of the plants showing more signs of yellowing from watering issues and ph issues. Luckily I was able to get a nice strong batch of Boogie Brew compost tea made and gave them all a nice soak and bath with it. Within two days all but one of the plants bounced back. Now that the plants are able to fend for themselves a little better was a good opportunity to try to harden them off the ones going outside to the elements outside. I did so by placing on a shaded part of my deck for a few hours. I was also able to get my tent inside ready and they were moved from the small cool grows tent to my 4x8 tent with my big lights. I adjusted the light to be around 500 PPFD at canopy.
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@Hydrus
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all other plants go into sleep mode after around 18 hours of light, FastBerry still craves light.lol can't wait to taste her, if i can curb my drug addiction, it may survive until the flowering phase.lol ehhmm, who is an addict and who is doing it just for fun?haha
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ok so everything has gone fantastic , no nutrient burns at all , and have been slowly creeping up the base nutrients , i have stopped the cal mag and now adding house and gardens bud XL at full strength these girls are now in full swing of flower and i bought a new ph stick this week , i have found when PHing the feed bucket that its best too have air stones in the bucket , add all nuts and then ph but do not use the feed that day as if you check the next day the ph is off again so i left it 24 hours after i add more ph down , and it seems too make the measurements alot easier and stable , i have bent down the main stems " without damaging them onto my netting too A keep the canopy all the same high so my lighting is covering all plants at the same distance and also it allowed the side stems too reach up too , i also was sponsored another new led light by kingbo this week so have added another 600watt led too the grow , so now have two 600's and one 900watt , and temps are still fine sitting at 24c lights on and 19-20 off , so am pleased with that , this lady is nice and compact and tight lots of leaves that I had too remove too open up her bud sites , stretch was also minimal ,
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War 10 Tage im Urlaub. Eine Woche wechselhaft, 3 Tage heiß. Sie sind gut gewachsen. Blue mystic: habe eine getoppt und eine gefimmt. Die getoppte skywalker schießt in die Höhe und muss bald wieder getoppt werden. Fat banana ist sehr stark im wuchs. Bald werd ich die mal entlauben.Es läuft gut. Bis nächste Woche ✌️
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Vamos que os explico un poco critical es una variedad indica con una floración rápida, sus flores son compactas , y bastante resinosas, tiene aromas fuertes. El ambiente en el secado estuvo en 23 grados de media y 40% de humedad se pasaron rápido al bote de cristal, 7 días en concreto. Hasta aquí todo familia, espero que os agrade un saludo y buenos humos💨💨💨
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sempre più bella la nostra amica misteriosa🎄🤪 Qualcuno di voi sa dirmi che specie è?