Привет друзья. Наше знакомства продолжается с новым сортом автоцветущих растений от Smail_Seeds сорт ORIGINAL AUTO CHEMZKITTLEZ F1 reg. Сегодня растению 58 дней. Растение очень хорошо развивается, ни каких сбоев в генетике не наблюдается. Шишки наливаются😀 Сорт выводим сами. Смотри мой профиль, у нас всегда есть что то интересное. Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

Ja die Manderin Cream wächst jetzt am Tag mindestens 5 cm. Es haben sich sehr viele Blüten gebildet. Habe jetzt den Ec wert auf 1200. Die Pflanze trinkt am Tag 0,9 Lieter und ich fülle den Tank jeden Tag mit ca. einen Lieter auf mit einen Ec wert von 1087. Erhöhung von B52 und Big bud und Tasty terp. Habe noch keinerlei erfahrungen mit Automatic und wusste nur , das sie in der Blütephase kein stress vertragen.. Deshalb habe ich die Entlaubung nicht gemacht.. Werde 3 wochen vor der Ernte etwas entlauben... Aber ich muss mich erstmal genauer mit der Blütezeit befassen.. oder es genauer im Blick behalten durch vergleiche hier im netz. Habe hier Züchter gesehen mit der cream Manderin die 14 wochen Blütezeit hatten.. oder Sie so lange Blühen ließen..und nicht wie angegeben 9 wochen und fertig... Aber die ergebnisse wahren echt Top bei den anderen .. schauen wir mal...

Looks so good, super frosty and the smell is AMAZING!

The flowers are maturing. I’m still having some lite green color in 1of 6 plants. I’ve checked PH, added nuts, climate is fine. I’m honesty stumped. I’m starting to wonder if there is some type bacteria or fungus in the soil that has affected it. I may try adding some peroxide soon to see if it has any effect.

Day 51-26 Fed 2 L till run off . She was thirsty from no feeding yesterday but humidity still fighting hard in the high 50s Day 52-27- Fed 1.5 L Starting to lower nutes Day 53-28- Fed 1.5L Day54-29 Fed 1.5L Day 55-30 Missed Day 56-31 Fed 2.5 L Day 57-32 None Day 58-33 Fed 2L Day 58-34 No feed Day 35 Feed2 L Day 59-36 In one Day60-37 Fed 2L Day 61-38 None Day. 62-39 Feed 3 L . 1st L plain ones water as no run off last few days Then fed 2L with nutes Day 63-40 None Day 64-41 None Day 65-42 Fed 2L Day 66-43 Nothing - starting to see fading I think . Might start flushing in next few days Day 67-44 Fed 2.5 L Say 68-45 None

Jour42 defolliation and LST Jour45 defolliation Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz La plante entre maintenant en floraison c'est donc le début du stretch Explication en anglais (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimetres. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪

Hi guys, can you give some feedback I think high temperatures are messing a bit. Thank you and have a nice week.

Half way through week 2 flower the girls look smell great today I pick about 150 leaves off my 9 plants didn’t touch the other 6 but that’s the last time I’ll be picking any leaves now I’ll be leaving the girls to just flourish and be happy I cleared a lot of the bottom as well watched a few vids about bugs and got para so I did a lot off sorting the bottom of the plant witch you’ll see in the pics .. what can I say it’s my 2nd grow and my plants are looking better then most off my mates mine are just looking fresh smell nice asf and there leaves are a perfect green. Couldn’t be happier and it looks like I’m gonna get abit off them 9 that’s in my trellis net Subscribers YouTube channel Uk grower blueboy Ps the pics are the 6 that haven’t been trained they’ve just been little personal project for me There well jue a feed it’s bin really hard getting hold off Water I’m just going to go out tomorrow and buy 100 bottles if the shops let me.... there gonna love there watering tomorrow.

Ich habe mich dazu entschieden sie heute schon zu Ernten. Ich fand der richtige Zeitpunkt wäre gekommen und jetzt hängt sie zum Trocknen 😁

Autopilot again this week! Watering once a day, same nutes. Don't smell anything through the carbon filter but when I open the tent, woooow. Stinks out the house! Growing hydro really helps them get bigger, faster... stack on some buds... more potent smell than last time in the soil. Man, I can't wait to try my 'dro!!! :P 2 weeks left, tops, before harvest. 1.5 weeks left until we hit the point I harvested the moms. Everything I've been reading says to flush for only a couple days before harvest when growing in perlite. Which is nice, because you can't always pinpoint when you're harvest will be ready 2 weeks out!!

1 week more for this

Last week on nutes now Doubled in size as per dragon force

Only watered with water this week and runoff ppm still shows around 1000. There is no burning so it seems Bio tabs did their job. Removed the SCROG at the end of this week in preparation for harvest. Harvest will be tommorow at day 176 ( 71 from flower) Trichosomes seem around 50% cloudy with around 25% amber and 25% clear. Chopped her Day 71 from flower, completed budwash with 3 buckets solutions using filtered water and lemon juice, soda b and , hydrogen peroxid 3%, only using very low amount compared to Doc Budwash tehnique found on forums cause I didn't have more then 250 mL at home. Weight is around 2.5 KG wet before washing. Now trying to achieve stable humidity around 50%, 60 % and planning to start trimming i na few days....

After germinating the seeds are transplanted into small pots with soil (see tutorial in VIDEO above). The soil is prepared with water mixed with a little bit of BIO NOVA Roots (0,5 ml/l), which aids the development of the seedling. Transplanting is very easy now, because they have grown a STRAIGHT tap-root while hanging during the SERIOUS' WAY of germination. This straight root allows for easy potting of the seeds. Simply make a little hole in the center of the soil with your pinky finger and carefully place the germinated seed with the white root pointing DOWNWARDS into the hole. Best is to lay it onto one side-wall of the hole with the seed shell right at the surface. Then I push the other side inwards and enclose the whole root with soil. At the end only the top of the seed-shell peeks out of the soil. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to plant the seeds NOT TO DEEP into the soil. The seedling only needs extra strength to work itself upwards thru the soil and you run the risk of the soil drying out and the seed dying off. When you PLANT THE SEED VERY SHALLOW into the soil (=with the top of the seed-shell still peeking out) your seedling can grow out right away and you have a small plant already 24 hours after putting the seed into the soil. The small seedling sometimes still has the seed-shell on its 'head', it normally falls off by itself, but sometimes you have to carefully help and take it off with your finger nails. Be careful to NOT clip of the seedling accidentally when you do this! The seed-shall has an inner lining, which feeds the small seedling when it germinates. This inner lining sometimes gets tangled around the stem of the small seedling after the shell has fallen off. This little skin MUST be taken off the stem right away! Once it dries up, it gets hard and can strangulate the seedling around the stem. In order to avoid this, the skin must be taken off as soon as possible! I show it in the pics above and also made a video about taking off the inner lining of the seed.

Really happy with all 3 ladies looking nice and healthy and growing well hoping they going to start stacking on the weight now looking forward to the last 4 weeks or so keeping my fingers crossed they all finish lovely 🤞

day 58: Just visual checks. Soil still felt a little moist. The "burned" leaf tips didn't get worse. day 59: Watering day. It may be a bit early, but I decided to give her only plain ph regulated water from now. I find it hard estimate the procentual distributation of light/cloudy/brown pistils/trichomes. From checking several buds I'd say about 20-25% of the pistils are brown and 20-30% of the trichomes are cloudy. Additionally removed some small popcorn buds that were freshly developing near the ground and a few inner leaves. day 60: Just visual checks and refreshing humidification. day 61: Just visual checks and refreshing humidification. day 62: Day of watering. Some buds are at about 40-50% brown pistils, while some others are still at about 10%. So I decided to give it at least some nutrients one last time and poured 3 liters of water with fertilizer and 3 liters with ph-down only. I think we are getting closer to the goal. day 63: Found some suspicious looking leafs in the center of the plant. By now I don't really now if it is because I lowered nutrients or some major problem. Let me hear what you think. day 64: Just visual checks. We're getting closer to the end.

Week 1 Day 1 - 8/12/2023 1st Water change Day! Such a special time it is when you remove the little bit of Nutes that you gave them as an appetizer and you give them their first real meal. Added 39 Gallons of Water to my system SILICA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Root Drip = 1mil/Gal = 39mil Cal Mag= .25mil/Gal = 9.75 = 10mil FLoraMicro= 3.0mil/Gal = 114mil FloraGro = 2.0mil/Gal = 78mil FloraBloom = 2.0mil/Gal =78mil ORCA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Week 1 Day 2 - 8/13/2023 Everything is looking good the roots are making thier way to the water and the new grow is looking nice and green. Week 1 Day 3- 8/14/2023 Everything is right on track, they are looking beautiful and in the praying postition all leaves happily lifting towards the light. Week 1 Day 4- 8/15/2023 Looking beautiful today and looked like she could use her first haircut.. gave her a TOP off. Roots are laying in the water everything is looking right on track.. Week 1 Day 5- 8/16/2023 walked in and the humidity was under 60.... ohh noooooo.. So I added 2 humidifiers to the tent and attached them to my InkBird controller which is set to 62. She had roots nicely in the water.. this grow is on!!! Week 1 Day 6- 8/17/2023 Humidity was a little low this morning, so I refilled the humidifiers. Other than that, the temp looks great, the PH looks great, the PPM looks good the plant is in the praying position and all damage from the little drowning seems to have been fixed. Happy Happy. Week 1 Day 7- 8/18/2023 Yay.. week 1 in the books, roots in the water growth has started first hair cut given and both side nodes are growing. Everything is looking good and on track.. A lot better than week one of the last grow when I had them drowning week 1. Really excited on how this grow is going to come out.