Her aroma is so sweet,all the 5 Black cherry punch have the exact same sweet and floral aroma,her flower are very sticky, she's producing quality resin,she ended up with a smaller size compared to her sisters. Let's see how she performs but I'm loving her so far

WEEK 1 of flower. This is insanely quick, veg for three weeks and on week 4 we are flowering strong. It is raining a lot, so i had to use a top dressing, ingredients on the week 3, to manage the soil nutrients till the end of the cycle. About two table spoons. Watering once a week, this girl is in a supersoil, very natural as a grow, nothing much complicated, no science fiction with fertilizer or chemistry. I’m curious about the yield, and how much can i pull out of this way, with minimal work and a nearly inert soil. Let’s see how this experiment turns out.

Hello everyone week 4 of flower has passed for this Tropicana cookies auto 🌴 For the feeding schedule i stopped feeding Power Roots and Pure Zym and started feeding Green Sensation 0,5/l Mars hydro FC-E6500 75% have a great day and wish you all happy growing 😎👨‍🌾🏻

Gut

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Flowering day 51 since time change to 12/12 h. Hi everyone :-) . The buds get bigger and bigger. I think the next 14-18 days will be harvested because the trichomes are already 70% milky, 10% amber and 20% clear. For the next 9-13 days you will rinse with Canna Flush. I wish you a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy 👍 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/ Type: Herz Og ☝️🏼 Genetics: Larry OG X Kosher Kush Indica 60 % / Sativa 40 % 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

The buds are really sticky and smell super strong. This stuff gives you a head high followed by relaxation. I dried for 14 days at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 60 % RH.

47th Parallel Crowly's Comet 🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹 GROW Started 03.10.24 INFORMATION 🔹╰⊰´🔹⊱╮🔹 🌞Environment - Maintaining 80F and 65%Humidity 🌾Training - Nothing this week just letting the seedlings veg out. ⚱️2-Gallon 📊6.2 PH 💧 Feeding - Using Horti Grow 8-11-21, Bloom 5-15-26, Late Bloom 0-24-26, Cal 12-0-0 🌞Medic Grow Smart 8 760 Watts 🕷️ IPM - CannControl from Mammoth and Mosquito Bits as needed 🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹 PLANT UPDATES 🔹╰⊰´🔹⊱╮🔹 📝 Notes - These girls have completely transformed into their new buckets and have started to drink up, increasing the amount of fertigation, (Nutrients and H20), and defoliation to expose the lower growth. 🗓️03.29.24 Maintaining Temps and Humidity - Plants are Looking Great! 🗓️03.30.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. I defoliated the plants to water them better and the middle growth could get more light and develop. 🗓️03.31.24 Maintaining Temps and Humidity 🗓️04.01.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. Check out the amazing growth and recovery after the defoliation! 🗓️04.02.24 Maintaining Temps and Humidity, watching these ladies are just nailing the veg phase. 🗓️04.03.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal 🗓️04.04.24 Maintaining Temps and Humidity, closing out week 2 of veg and these ladies will need to be defoliated again, this new nutrient line from Greenpnaet is killing it, and so easy to use! ╰⊰🔹╰⊰´🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹╰⊰🔹STRAIN INFORMATION🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹╰⊰🔹╰⊰🔹⊱╮ Crowley's Comet / https://www.47thgenetics.com/product-page/crowley-s-comet-10-fem-birdseeds It's everyone's favorite piece of space rock, Crowley's Comet! The culmination of reversing our Matterhorn cut off Mr. Crowley to Intergalactic Runtz, and the results were out of this world (I had to do it). These ladies were slow to start, but once they hit their stride they put any worries we had to rest. Compact, short-framed, and robust. They pack beautifully boulder-like flowers that reek of garlic and sickly sweet cotton candy. Dark green to a mosaic of purples, yellows, and silvers. Frost production is off the charts, the internode spacing is tight, and they certainly will impress in their last few weeks of flower. This is one of our favorite crosses in the new fem lineup. If you're looking for your hype fix, here you go. Yield: Heavy to XL Flower Time: 63 days Feeding Schedule: Heavy

Harvest Time Give few days, Let soil dry out and chop

So I thought the plants was going to be a flop but they turned it around, really long time tho for a auto flower, I could of ran photos with a better yield, but never the less these look like 10/10 nugs and smell amazing i can't wait to see how these look dried off.

the last of its vegetation ... and it will begin its flowering ... it has a weak smell yet ... we will see what it offers us in the future ... the substrate is made by me ... and its feeding began with earthworm humus .. red guano and fishbowl water ...

Will update on weight and smoke

KRITIC AUTO by KANNABIA Week #9 Week #6 Flower No issues this week she's doing 👍 she's really focusing her energy into her buds as the have stared becoming dense they look amazing and smell great!! Stay Growing!!! Kannabia.com KRITIC AUTO

gulag tercermundista vol. 2 'killer kush fast version de sweet seeds' , esta wea quedo tan flayte que debo mostrarlo en mi lengua madre, como si estuviera hablando alguien que fuera igual de aficionado que yo y tb le de brigido a los bongazos sordidos. weno :) , corregi algunos errores del cultivo anterior,cambiando tambien el sustrato a organic life light mix que fue una experiencia nueva* , que en conjunto a los tiempos que di pensando que seria un repollo indicon, bien confiao le di un mes y una semana de vegeta que pasaron volando se presento tuve un stretch asi de adolescente por lo que la moraleja que puedo dejar como en el contexto de asegurar una buena vegeta, sin saberlo la estaba vendiendo porque no es aprovechar el espacio, es agregar otro nivel de dificultad y riesgo en este caso fue una buena resolucion pero debo advertirlo xq si me hubiera entrao una plaga en flora estaria mas cagao que calsoncillo de milico ctm), fuera de eso tambien sirve no como referencia general de que es algo que te puede pasar con og kush y sus variantes, como esta , y tambien algo que tiene algo de rudelaris para acortar su floracion , al respecto , que 8 de 9 hayan dado diferente tipo de frutas, algunas de hermosa calidad. cultivar ahi es rapido, y se seca muy rapido en verano ctm , pero es un buen sustrato al menos pa germinar y primeras semanas de vegeta rinde, despues muestra carencia muy rapido pero tomenlo como algo bueno, vienen muy acomedidas - imagino que variara levemente lo que sea segun la calidad de agua pero es mejor esperar a que aparezcan sin alimentar o estar dando fertilizantes/estimulantes leves y la carencia tomarle como señal que hay que darle mas comida, especialmente si pueden identificarlas acorde a su propio conocimiento. mi fertilizacion fue top veg, top bloom, top candy, barrier , hesi boost, calmag 2.0 de bac. razon de siempre - no es lo mejor de lo mejor pero es lo mejor que uso relacion precio/calidad porque les doy como chancho. regulo ph con acido citrico , no se mide ec, la temperatura si de hecho al agregar un nuevo termohigrometro descubri que tenia unos puntos ciegos donde no circulaba el calor y quede pal pico mi sistema big dick energy quedo destrosao en eficiencia, pero la tecnica de acumular ventiladores como enfermo, pudo sopesarlo vagamente , mi luxometro es precario pero efectivo , se llama esta wea se vuelve tan instintiva que podria identificar con mis ojos llenos de semen la elongacion causada por carencia de luz y señales de exceso de luz y consiguiente masa calor que genera como cogollos y hojas blanqueadas, resequedad ambiental , y en algunos casos todo esto conlleva a crecimientos deformes dejan de ser tiernos como el fox-tailing. 9x weno, hubo una seleccion media charcha porque puse mas a germinar pensando que no me saldrian tantas pero como de 12, estas fueron como las mejores 9 o una wea asi, criterio de seleccion nivel la lista de schlinder, y weno,las macetas con las que comence fueron pot on pot premeditando su utilidad, luego la generica de 11 lt como tambien asi la luz se incremento y redujo para prevenir momentos que estuvieran a un parametro superior a 28c porque es mas facil reducir el calor que genero que extraerlo en este sistema precario y posiblemente canero, pero que se le puede presentar a mas de una persona , porque el calor ambiental q deben contrarestar puede ser un aliado o enemigo en muchas situaciones de la vida, como este pais presenta un calor extremo en el norte y un frio extremo al sure, imaginense las weas que uno hace por amor a la droga ctm incluyendo lo que los leen desde otros gulags , ser un dimmer humano weon simp por y para de la mota - lo digo por mi y por todos los que sigan leyendo a estas alturas xdddd . intente reusar una malla anterior para tambien prevenir que los cogollos cuando se elongen le peguen al foco y se quemen feo , una de scrog formal puede cumplir el mismo proposito si no tienen intencion de llenarla c:, las plagas son muy poco presente , lo unico que hago ahi es meter barrier debe en cuando en el riego, pero en flora no usaria foliar alguna cosa a menos que fuera una situacion briyida como hongos, que aqui tambien aqui en este espacio reventao, enganchar un hongo o plaga te hace piko altoke. cuidense chamos akakkakakaak meti luces de fiesta porque se ven cool de noche, y algunos pigmentos que genere los rayos uv para protegerse del clima culiao inhospito estilo guerrilla cyberpunk noventero que resulto esta wea fea. big gas leaks energumen@s qlz 😄😄😄

Seguimos con la semana 9 de floración perdón por inictavidad el trabajo es lo que tiene saludos cultivadores🤙🏻😊🏼🌱

I used half the recommended dose of Indo products for each plant through this grow. The monkey juice is half recommended making it every week rather than full dose every two. The sticky bandit was fed with it every week at half dose till later on

🌸 Week 3 Flower — Bud stacking begins! 🌸 This week was a turning point — stretch finally slowed down and the plants are now fully focusing on bud formation. The tent started getting really humid due to the extra leaf mass and transpiration 🌿💦. That’s when I realized: a dehumidifier is a must. Without it, RH would climb over 70%, which is dangerous at this stage. Temperatures are still steady (27°C day / 20°C night), but now I’m working on dropping humidity to ~55–60% for safer flowering. Nutrient-wise, I reduced nitrogen even more, focusing on PK boosters and bloom nutrients. Bud sites are stacking nicely, pistils are shooting everywhere 🧡, and the first serious trichome production has started ✨. Mistakes from earlier (too much IR, uneven light distribution) are still visible on some plants, but overall the crop is healthy and vigorous. Next week should be the start of real frost explosion ❄️.