Ahojte máme krásnu slnečnú nedeľu 2 deň Flower. Dnešný ranný nápoj James Bond obsahuje vodu 1,8L s Ph 6 , Rhino skyn 1ml, Senzi Bloom 2ml A+B, B52 0,5ml, šťava vodoo 1ml. Zalial som kitky,moje veľké uši počujú ako mľaskajú. James Bond koktail im veľmi chutí,oproti minulému kolu som urobil zmenu. Nechám tam vždy aspoň 100ml rezervu nejdem preschnúť na kosť. Pozerám do kútika štastia endorfíny mi stúpajú. Čakám na 5 dní Flower, keď to vybuchne hore ako ohňostroj a budú rásť rýchlejšie. Pridal som sa na spodok ventilátora, ktorý fúkal do stredu stien v boxe nastavené hore.Odtokové mieriežky sú veľmi super, som spokojný lebo mi to veľmi pomáha pri zalievaní. Svetlo a tie rozostupy na rastline som urobil školácku chybu, keď som menil odťahový ventilátor mal som si všimnúť, že svetlo už môžem konečne lepšie nastaviť, ale táto chyba je opravená, flower Room 100% vyriešené len následky si ponesú kitky, teraz už to svetlo a rozostupy vidím .Zatiaľ ma teší, že tie kitky sú zdravé a bez nedostatkov. 6 deň máme teplotu už 26,7 °C a vlhkosť 51% svetlo Full 150w Max výkon.Dnes bola ďalšia zálievka opäť rovnaká ako predtým vidím mierne tmavé okraje tých nových listov. Nech sa Vám darí a na konci ste Happy ✌️.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

And the first week of flower is amongst us, I’m not sure if it’s the fast bud genetics, the living soil, or a mixture of both, but I think the videos say it all, the deep green throughout, day 41 and just look😍. Everything’s been sitting nicely 24/7 Humidity 49~56%, temps 23~26c This week they all received there last top feed, along with a slight bit of defoliation, some massive fan leaves! slightly over watered as you will notice in one of the videos, but I won’t be surprised if they’ve grew another few inches over night.

Metal rainbow f1 on first day in week 11 and she has produced a few stigmas out of a few of the main branches she’s also been stretching alot over the past week looking forward to seeing more flower development through the next few weeks

they are all growing great and starting to get taller. a very robust plant and very easy to grow and maintain. they are getiing 1/2 the recommeneded dose of nutrients 3 times a week

Well, what we feared, became a reality, one of the regular XTrakush plants is a male. This is why I planted two and I'm happy it seems to be only the one. But with the canopy going nice and full it hurt to get it out. Of course, I hoped to have two females but nature went its course. Considered leaving it in, to pollinate the others, or keeping it somewhere, but I do not have the space or light for it. Thus with pain in my gut, I went about getting her out. I notice a nice developed root system, very healthy, which was very hard to get loose. After shaking the soil off I have a rootball the same size as after my whole grow last time. I could lift the whole 57 ltr bag by lifting the plant. Sturdy stem, thick solid branches. This is what I was aiming for and it works. The soil again is proving itself to be a winner. The light this low gives some higher temps as expected, but manageable within ranges. The SP-3000 is performing really well and I cant wait to see the bud development coming weeks. I'm sure it will deliver a great amount of bigger buds looking at all the flower sites and the thick branches that support them. Remember to check in on www.mars-hydro.com, they have awesome deals now for Black Friday! I'm giving more water now, once in two days instead of three. They seem to need it with the higher temps. The plants seem to take the light well on only 45 cm. I've started adding the BAC Organic Bloom Nutrition. It is designed to work with the microorganisms I added with the micro life. With this I do a little bit of Calmag, but not so much, since I don't see any evidence of shortages, again proving my soil is dialed in for growing under LED perfectly. All in all, even with a minor setback, all is ready to pull in a mega harvest. Thanks for checking in again!! Hug Bud & Sunshine.

Plants are growing nice, garden pest totally under control. No issues to report this week thankfully, in the next two week we will be doing some defoliation of the ladies. Tallest plant is 46" , shortest plant is 12"

I might chop next week. They smell a lot.

Starting of the stretch getting way too tall lol

This was the runt of the bunch from the beginning and started flowering a week before the others. Seemed like in veg it didn't have enough nitrogen (yellow/green leaves) and in flower it had too much causing the bottom new leaves to grow kinda mutated and dark green. Even with those issues she still packed on solid dense buds covered in trichomes. pulled off 253 grams wet after trimming and 57 grams of trim will update with dry weight when ready

Week 13 (10-10 to 16-10) 10-10 Temperature: 27.4 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 82% (highest) 51% (lowest) Watering: 1250 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) The strength of the light is set to 90%, distance is at 29.5 cm / 37 cm. LUX: 22.300 / 27.300 11-10 Temperature: 26.6 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 74% (highest) 52% (lowest) Watering: 700 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 12-10 Temperature: 26.8 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 76% (highest) 60% (lowest) Watering: 400 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 13-10 Temperature: 26.8 degrees (lights on) 20.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 85% (highest) 60% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. PH 6.4 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 14-10 Temperature: 24.9 degrees (lights on) 19.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 74% (highest) 49% (lowest) Watering: None. 15-10 Temperature: 23.8 degrees (lights on) 18.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 49% (lowest) Watering: 1200 ml. PH 6.4 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 16-10 Temperature: 23.5 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 54% (highest) 50% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. PH 6.4 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+)

Looks like this might be the last week for this girl. Was hoping to see more change in tricomes but not sure if worth the wait. Give it a few more days and see what the loop says.

Wow. I love cannabis

In the second week the plant has now started to produce its first set of single bladed leafs.

Fattening up every day and smelling amazing! Took out calmag supplementation and will start a flush next week. Starting to see a bit of senescence. She finishes at 8.5 weeks max consistently.

Hello. This is the end of week 8 and the beginning of week 9 of flowering. Although the seed description said 10 to 11 weeks, I going to cut these girls down at 10 weeks. I need the room to grow and flower some Mac and Crack that's already growing.. Getting close to harvest I'll start flushing, But I'll give them 1 more feeding and then nothing but water till the end. I get much better taste and the buds smoke better if I flush and get the chemicals out of the soil before harvest. Well, that's the end of the Freak Bros. book # 10... I think there are 3 or 4 more books left in that series. I'll show them in future diaries. My other diaries have the old underground comic book, Weirdo by Robert Crumb if you want to check them out to see. The buds are really getting solid now and some are getting heavy and heading for the floor. Good times... Getting some great smells now. Musk is the most common. But some, smell of Citrus with Musk under tones. The smell is overpowering my carbon filter. I can smell these plants out by the street if the wind is blowing that way. Pure Lemon Skunk smell by the street. Nice. Getting near the end of their lives now and there are more yellow leaves as the plants pull what they need from the big fan leaves before turning the leaves brown. Some plants have sticky resin and some have slippery resin. OK. Have Fun. Chuck.

6/24/24 the videos of trichomes is from both purple octane and rs 11 Also based on trichomes. I should've counted the last week of veg as a flower week. So she's closer than we 6/25 we have clear cloudy and purple. Leaning towards her going till the end of this week. 6/28 we have about 70-80% cloudy and 20-25% amber. she's ready to go. she will be chopped tomorrow morning. 6/29 unless stated otherwise. happy growing yall, this plant is a fucking badge of honor with how beautiful she 6/28 I lied and chopped her probably 30 mins after I posted that lmao.