The High intensity was to strong (clearly my fault) in the beginning which stunted her overall stretch, she however still delivered super dense, terpene and trichome loaded buds.

Vamos familia que ya actualizamos la cosecha de estas Candy Rain de Zamnesia, para el concurso POWER BUDS Plagron x Zamnesia CONTEST. Ya era hora de cosechar, estoy bastante contento con los resultados. Vaya flores que se han marcado repletas de tricomas, y las flores se marcan aromas dulces y afrutados. Es una variedad bastante fácil de cultivar y muy resistente, crecieron desde el principio bien vigorosas, sin problemas y al final de todo recompensó. Las condiciones ambiéntales han sido máximas en 25 y mínimas en 20 y una humedad estable en torno al 36% al final de floración y en el secado. Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ Espero que disfruteis este diario, buenos humos 💨💨

Hey guys. Managed to get some pics. Going to check the trichomes later to see where they are at. Cant explain the smell its giving off

Week 10 for Wockesha she is finally at her end. All phenos look beautiful with different tones of purple through out the bud. All the Pheno had dense buds. Some phenos had better frost factor and some had better weight factor. Will do a whole plant hang dry for 2-3 weeks and then to a jar cure!

Ok day 31 and these girls are beginning to show signs of flower.I did some light defoliation and top dressed with Gaia green power bloom which should feed them through the short explosive flowering cycle.Ill just use plain water and add recharge every week until they finish.Later on this week I will add a bamboo scrog net I made to spread the branches out and remove the photos to another tent :)

Day 31 of flowering

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

The start of flower wars very good, we got the first flower nutrients. It will be a Monster plant again

Added a scrog today, plants looking healthy. Ill be looking foward to see how they react being autoflowers. Bat guano also added to the coco as a top layer and mixed in about an inch. Upped the cannaboost and cannazym. Next week probably be adding PK 13/14

Started LST she’s growing but not as fast as I would think for a 9-10 week plant. I hope she finishes out timely as I’ve been excited for this strain. I forgot to PH her feed so if anyone has any ideas on how to mitigate that I’d appreciate it.

Well it seems i ran into some sort of issue and had to flush. I hope it fattens a bit more even though i feel like the issues may have something to do with the root system. I am at day 44 out f a 55-65 day flowering plant. I just hope i can get through this so that i can start flush this friday and harvest in like 2 weeks.

Runtz Punch grew great. The only problem is she was a autoflower labeled as a photoperiod. She still preformed very well. She developed good, dense, frosty, sweet smelling colas. I didn't have any real issues during this grow beside she went to flowering under a 20/4 light schedule. Everything went great and I will be back for the smoke report in a few months once she is processed. Thank you Herbies seeds, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️ Sorry I missed several weeks, I had hand surgery and was unable to move and update stuff as needed. Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

Ok

Solo una semana más. Domingo 19 se cosecha... Plantas muy hermosas.

In the first week after switching to a 12/12 light cycle, I continued to train the plant, but I believe it'll be the last time. It already boasts 8 healthy-looking colas, which seems sufficient. Let's see how it progresses! 🌿😊

Hi! Thanks for checking out my Royal Dwarf grow! Please comment on how healthy you think the plant is or any thoughts. In less than 2 weeks I have learned so much from you guys and i want to make a point of thanking you as this medicine allows me to live what I would consider a normal day to day life! :) So... Beginning week 2 and from the first few pictures and videos I think the plant is getting healthier, Getting a ph meter this week also, will probably resolve any issues I think I'm having. Day 7/8 I was going to switch from the Vitalink Plantstart + Canna Rhizotonic schedule to Canna A, B, Rhizotonic and Cannazym. I have not gotten around to doing so yet as I think I've been overwatering the plant. stopped watering and started using the spray bottle to keep the moisture up. will water with the new nutrients once the plant has dried out a bit. Day 9: Transplanted from a 1L to a 19L/5Gallon, the top half of the 1L container was dry and had what looks like well developed roots and the bottom half was wet and the roots were hanging out when transplanting. I definitely should have let it dry out more. Day 10: Rhino pro 200/600 Carbon filter arrived and it's the 1100cfm/overpowered version as I read it was better to get a filter with a better CFM rating than what your fan can move. The fan is an Isomax 900cfm or is it m3/hr ? I added a short video after the pics so you can get a fairly good view of the setup. I got 5m acoustic ducting and connected it up as best I could with the space I had. I Was covered in rock wool, didn't have wire cutters and had to go buy some to finish the job 😅. Talk about a nightmare! I left 1mtr spare ducting for the intake fan in future grows. I think it's worth mentioning that the 6 fans on the back of my grow light are louder than the filter/ducting/fan/ducting (in order). Noise level of light and fan combo is between a really expensive/good quality bedroom fan and a hairdryer as a comparison. As I don't have my intake fan yet Im using passive intake and my fan has a 3 speed controller so I have it on speed 1 and there is negative pressure. Finally i mixed up the canna nutrients and changed ph from 7 to 6, I'm not sure what's ideal for autos but I read that anywhere between 5.8 and 6.3 is good for autos? Let me know! Day 11 (update) As I have now realised how to edit my weeks in the diary I will start doing so! Read that a fluctuating PH is good between 5.5-6.5 so I'm gonna stay at ph 6 and let it do its thing. The plant seems to like this a lot more than ph7 although it is still stressed from transplanting (1ltr-19ltr) it's still growing new leaves but growth appears slower. Finally after a few cold showers I have recovered from being covered in rock wool! (thank god😂) also I started a RQS Quick One as a backup for the dwarf and RQS Fast Eddy as Im eager to see if medical marijuana has a better effect on my depression, anxiety and sleep problems than regular high thc low cbd strains. Check out my profile (JuicyFruit) to see my diaries for these strains! Day 13- my dwarf still seems stressed from the transplant, its growing some new leaves slowly but is still drooping from transplant. gonna be a dwarf-dwarf by the sounds of it! 😆 and i was doing some research on optimal hang heights for my Phlizon "3000w" COB LED, it seems that 40 inches is good to start from. i also read another users opinion that the switch on the fixture labelled VEG&BLOOM is mixed up with the other switch that is labelled STRONGER. The VEG&BLOOM switch is LEDs along with IR. (i read that the IR is probably further stressing my transplanted dwarf) and the STRONGER switch is COBs. i took a minute to think about this but after realizing that the plants can probably handle the COBs (STRONGER) at the right distance i may aswell use them for veg and switch the LEDs and the COBs on 1 or 2 weeks before flowering for full flower power! after reading all that i went straight over and switched the LEDs off and put the COBs on. il post pictures in the morning to show how the plants reacted. fingers crossed people! Please comment on anything you think i could improve on or any advice to help this plant grow better as it is much appreciated! Peace! Day 13 Update: took some photos and it likes the COBs, although they are very hot combined with a sunny day reaching high temps of 29c. turned the fan up and opened another passive intake on the tent. finally im going to get some calmag and a oscillating fan for the leaves and hot spots in tent :)