Hello everyone, I've had a busy week, so this is what I have for you guys See y'all next week 🤘🤘

Another week with a lot of studing in order to understand what's going on, to then take the proper action. It hasn't been easy, most of the time I have no clue of what the plants are doing. I tried some fimming last week to help even the canopy but it didn't seem to work. Two of them are smaller than the others, I took the smaller one out of the center of the light to give the chance to the others to get more light since it wasn't growing at all due light burn, and one of them was too far from the light, so now is very stretchy. They have been growing fast, any suggestions on how to train them? I think is time to get a new light. I'm thinking about getting a HPS 600 watts, what do you think?

Week 4 for Amnesia Zkittlez by fastbuds Been getting some great growth from her as well definitely not as tall as her sister strawberry gorilla but she's not doing bad whatsoever. Still getting fed FPJ. No training or anything just yet but likely by next week ill be doing some LST to widen her up. As she's not as tall as her sister i reckon i can keep her in the tent for a little longer😎

Hey fellow growers week 9 update of my critical purple and pineapple auto grow. Well today all 4 plants are 63 total days old. Critical purple #2 is now in week 6 of 🌸 the other 3 are in forth week of 🌸. This will most likely be critical purple #2's last update as she will be harvested this week hopefully! No big changes this week from last besides Pineapple auto #2 is still not happy and critical purple #1 is thickening up nicely! Well here's what I did to the ladies this week... 10/30/21 Watered all plants Ph 6.2 178 Ppm 1ml ph down Solution temp 73.2°F 11/3/21 Critical purple#1 & Pineapple auto #1 2ml micro 3ml bloom Ph 6.31 420 Ppm Solution temp 70.0°f Critical purple #2 still flushing! 5ml flora kleen Ph 6.24 185 Ppm Solution temp 74.6 Pineapple auto #2 2ml micro 3ml bloom Ph 6.5 430 Ppm Solution temp 74°f Here's my link for discounts on merchandise from viparspectra: https://www.viparspectra.com/?aff=Wackytabacky420&utm_source=affiliate Coupon code: Wackytabacky420 Well guys it's been a crazy week so I'm gonna wrap this up till next week. Best of luck and Happy Growing!😎🌱💚💪💪

Great starter plant for a first timer was easy all round she stayed short but stocky rock hard dence nugs

Noticed the Purple was growing oddly compared to the Pineapple. Was having some heat issues which could have been the cause. By the end of the week feeding was once a day, about 2-4 drops in 100ml of water Ph between 6.0 - 6.1 all Remo veg nutrients. Found it hard to get the nutrients right with the fast growth of autos. Will get better each time and every run we learn something.

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

the 7th week. i decided to do the first topping. she took it well. and the new branches are thriving. i have also started LST training. she has got used to the environment and is finally showing the power i expected from her. the first weeks were just too changeable and sometimes too cold.

Amazing genetics - worth every money you spend on it 👻

esta semana hay ido mejor aun con unos saltamontes por ahi q habian aparecido y pulgones que ya soluciones facilmente con bag x5 y bang x3 de cannaboom la temperatura del tiempo aun gace calor y el frio no llega

We’re now deep into week 5 of flowering, and the plants are fully in their prime! The buds are getting visibly denser, while trichome production is exploding. Under the microscope, countless clear and first milky heads can already be seen — a sure sign the resin phase is in full swing. 24K Gold is stacking up beautifully with compact, uniform bud formations. Her aroma is becoming stronger and more complex — sweet and spicy with a subtle fruity note. The top colas are firming up and already showing a frosty coating of resin. Gelato 33 continues to impress with tight internodes and a balanced canopy. Her buds are slightly airier but covered in a thick layer of trichomes — the sugar leaves are already sparkling. Both plants look perfectly healthy: rich green color, no signs of stress or burn, just steady growth and ideal nutrient balance. The drip irrigation system keeps the coco medium consistently moist, ensuring a stable root environment. The semi-hydro setup continues to prove its efficiency — nutrient uptake and oxygen levels are right on point. Nutrients & Conditions: • 💧 Canna Coco A + B → 8 ml/L • 📈 EC 1.7 | pH 5.8 • 🌡️ Temperature: 25 °C day / 20 °C night • 💧 Humidity: 45 % • 💨 Airflow: strong and continuous for optimal resin production The smell is getting more intense by the day, and the buds are tightening up beautifully. From this point onward, the focus shifts to ripening and trichome maturity — the final stretch is officially on the horizon!

Shes close!! lol I think I might be missing a week oh well lol she is the plumpest auto in the tent of the 4 by far!!! she lookin thiiiickkkkkkk. shes got about 5 giant colas, lots of trichs and stanks real good!!! indoor and outdoor have their own goals but this is obviously alot higher quality than outdoor! The next update could quite possibly be the harvest 😎

Day 31 - 38 (Day 32) I’m going to lower the humidity in the room to 55-60. Still no bananas but I’m still quite worried about #3 fully popping and ruining my whole crop. Since there is a good chance it’s going to herm, I’m going to give it with a small feeding today and watch it like a hawk this week. I think the boost actually made a decent difference in #5 from last week. I’m seeing slightly fatter main colas but that could just be from less topping/smaller plant or less nitrogen. I’ve decided to push my luck and give a boost to each plant. These things just aren’t filling out like they should. They look like they are on day 23 not 33. I’m going to top dress 3 tablespoons of 1-4-2 Destiny launch and later tonight I’m going to water in a low strength feeding of 0-0-15 kelp extract. I’m going to give a final heaping tablespoon of nature’s pride bloom to #5 so it can stretch to the end. I’m also going to lower the lights by a few inches. The tallest cola is now about 13 inches away and the rest of the canopy is at about 18–24. If I see signs of light stress I’ll raise it back up but I’m sure it could use the extra light on the lowers. (Day 33) I’ve been reading that bigger plants just take longer to mature and that’s probably why my plant hasn’t fully filled out or is about a week behind. I still could have done a better job defoliating some of the smaller larf branches on the bottom which just robs the good branches of energy. The more I think about it, the more I think I did a very poor job of defoliating the middle canopy. I’m still seeing lots of larf and small buds on the inside not getting much light. I’m still really worried about herms after finding that branch so I don’t want to stress them anymore. Removing suckers now is pointless. I missed my window of opportunity and now I have to deal with it. I’m going to slide an old DVD player underneath #6 to bring it up to canopy level. It’s lower buds are definitely not getting enough light. (Day 34) Ever since lowering the light, the canopy has gotten a few degrees warmer. I’ve noticed the buds don’t feel as sticky on top compared to the lower tucked branches that feel almost wet with resin. Outdoor weed grown in my climate will never reach the temperature where it degrades resin luckily. (Day 36) The buds are definitely swelling but not to the degree I want. Call me picky but I prefer my nugs as chunky as possible. I’m seeing lots of pistils but not much nug matter. Ive heard too many pistils can be caused by the overuse of alfalfa, kelp and seaweed extracts because of the natural PGR’s in them. I’m definitely going to reduce the amount of that stuff I use next round. I hope I’m just wrong and this tent is going to really fatten up this week but I have my doubts. (Day 37) A purple fade is starting on the underside of every plant except the bush who still is super dark green still. Last watering I got a nice amount of runoff so I’m just going to leave her until the end. I’m seeing a bit of yellowing on #5. I’m going to give it one final full strength feeding plus some rock dust and oyster shell tomorrow and that’s a wrap for nutrients. I might as well hit everything else with a final low strength 0-0-15 too. (Day 38) I’m amazed at how much this stuff smells compared to my last round. It smells very earthy and floral with a hint of pine. Definitely not that gassy smelling pine but more of a sweet pine.

Hi everyone :-) This week the buds developed super ;-) All are beautiful 😍. Super genetics 👍. Blue Cheese pheno 1 is slowly coming to an end :-) This week I will start to use up the remaining nutrients and harvest in 10-14 days ;-) Everyone else needs something else :-) have fun with the videos, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱

Here we are at the end of my plant's wonderful eleventh week of flowering, another week full of exciting developments and new discoveries. The constant and unstoppable growth of the plant has come to an end, showing a beauty and vitality that are a true spectacle for the eyes. 😎 The abundant layer of resin that has formed is a clear sign of the health and well-being of the plant, once again confirming the benefits of the premium nutrients used throughout the entire growth cycle. TrollMaster's "TENT-X" environmental control system continues to prove its worth, precisely maintaining optimal temperature and humidity levels to promote vigorous plant growth. The combination of advanced and precision technologies ensures that plants can thrive in a controlled and conducive environment😎 I am thrilled to share with you the latest video showing the temperature, humidity and VPD trends of this last week of flowering, providing further demonstration of the extraordinary performance of the TrollMaster control system and its synergy with the other elements of the grow room. With each week that passes, the anticipation for the new discoveries and challenges that await us continues to grow. With the constant support of Plagron nutrients, trust in the TrollMaster control system and the excellence of MEDIC GROW LED lighting, I am sure that I am always ready to face any challenge! Thank you again for being by my side in this extraordinary adventure, dedicated to exploring the wonders of plant cultivation. Together we continue to look to the future with confidence and enthusiastically anticipate the successes that each new week holds for us. 💪👽🌱✨ REVIEW TENT-X: I was pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness and functionality of the TROL MASTER! This device is simply amazing, as it has allowed me to monitor the environments I use it in accurately and efficiently. One of the most impressive features of this device is its ability to operate LED lights easily and intuitively. Thanks to its user-friendly interface, I could easily customize the lighting of my rooms according to my tastes and different situations. I particularly appreciated the possibility of programming the sunrise/sunset simulation, thus creating a more natural situation. But that's not all: the device goes further and manages to keep me constantly informed about the humidity and temperature of the surrounding environment. This feature has proven to be very useful, especially in times when I am not present. I was able to set humidity limits, so that the device would immediately alert me if the levels exceeded the desired threshold. This allowed me to intervene promptly and avoid excessive oscillations. The accuracy of the temperature measurements was another welcome surprise. The device is equipped with a high precision sensor that allows me to constantly monitor the temperature of the rooms. Here too I was able to set temperature limits, allowing me to be notified immediately if they were exceeded. Overall, I was really satisfied. The TENT-X exceeded all my expectations. Its ease of use, precision of measurements and possibility of customization make it an indispensable tool for those seeking to monitor and optimize environmental conditions.

11 day dry mix of jar cure / Grove bag cure

So jetzt habe ich die Uhr umgestellt auf 12/12