Everything is proceeding good. Due to plants hight and colas weight, I had to use some poles to sustain the heaviest branches. Pistils are becoming to turn reddish, sugar leaves are more and more covered of transparant trichomes and fan leaves are becoming yellow and falling. Buds are increasing in size and even in the lowest branches there're some of them despite are quite small comparing to the ones on the top.

RELATIVE HUMIDITY The term ‘relative humidity’ (RH) refers to the amount of water vapor in the air and is usually expressed as a percentage (e.g. 50% RH). This can have a major impact on how cannabis plants grow. Low humidity means less water in the air and results in increased evaporation and water use. Excessive humidity comes with its own problems, including creating an ideal environment for pests, mildew, and mold to grow. One key factor related to humidity that is often left out of the conversation is vapor-pressure deficit (VPD) – the difference between the maximum water vapor the air can hold at a given temperature and RH. Although not all growers measure VPD, it significantly influences stomata activity and is directly related with transpiration rate and metabolism. A VPD that is too high means drier air and increased evaporation and transpiration. Too low a VPD can lead to slowed transpiration and reduced growth. Since slowed transpiration reduces nutrient uptake, both too high and too low of a VPD may appear as nutrient deficiencies. It is VPD that drives transpiration and nutrient uptake in plants; the uptake of water at the roots is determined by the loss of water through the shoots, and the loss of water through the shoots is determined by how much water is in the air. Humidity levels influence the rate of water evaporation from the leaves of cannabis plants, which directly affects the tension and suction created within the plant. Higher humidity levels can reduce the rate of evaporation, potentially impacting the negative pressure and water transport efficiency within the plant. CARBON-e DIOXIDE Carbon dioxide is essential for photosynthesis. Light energy is used to convert CO2 and H2O into sugar and oxygen. As the CO2 concentration increases, the rate of photosynthesis increases until a saturation point where no more CO2 can be absorbed. The guard cells (stomata) previously mentioned are specialized to regulate gas exchange, working to optimize the movement of oxygen, water, and CO2 in and out of the shoots. Plants cultivated outside typically don’t need supplemental CO2 (because nature knows what it’s doing). Indoor growers however, may find themselves needing additional carbon dioxide to maximize yields and improve plant growth and development. Without fresh air for plants to exchange oxygen for carbon dioxide, the CO2 concentrations can become low, hindering photosynthesis and dramatically reducing plant growth. Although CO2 is a naturally occurring gas that both humans and plants use, it is invisible and odorless and can be fatal at high-levels. If you’re supplementing carbon dioxide in your grow room, ensure there are no leaks in any CO2 devices and always use a CO2 monitor and alarm. 0.02% Life unsustainable 0.03% Life OK 0.04% Current ambient atmospheric co2 0.04%-0.1% =400-1000ppm standard indoor co2. 0.1%-0.2% =1000-2000ppm (prolonged exposure drowsiness). 0.2%-0.4% = 2000-4000ppm (Headaches, fatigue, stagnant, stuffiness, poor concentration, loss of focus, increased heart rate, nausea). 1% is toxic 5% quick death. AIRFLOW Outdoor plants are constantly exposed to natural elements, and that includes wind. Airflow ventilation is one of the often-forgotten environmental factors in healthy cannabis growth and development. Like all environmental factors, we want to “recreate” beneficial stressors that the plant would be exposed to outdoors. Like human bone that becomes stronger in response to stress from resistance we call exercise, stems increase in rigidity and structural integrity in response to stress from air flow. Plants that lack airflow are prone to developing weak stems, leaving them tall, skinny, and unable to hold bud weight as the plant grows. Excessive air flow, on the other hand, which constantly bends the entire plant, could lead to stunted growth or even broken shoots. Thankfully, you don’t need a wind sensor to achieve optimal air flow; a light breeze that just makes the leaves wave or dance gently can assist in the development of strong, dense shoots. A little too much though can stress so be careful not to overdo it too hard for too long as it will eventually stress. Stagnant air within the grow space can also increase the risk of pests, mold, and mildew. Some pests hide under leaves, along stems, and even in the soil itself. A small fan providing a gentle breeze is often enough to prevent a stationary environment, build stem strength, and reduce the chance of pests or pathogens. Proper air circulation and CO2 exchange facilitated by negative pressure contribute to stronger and healthier plants. Good air flow with constant fresh air is essential for maximizing the growth and yield of your indoor plants.. To achieve and maintain negative pressure in your grow tent, several key factors and components come into play. Understanding how these elements work together is essential for creating negative pressure inside your grow tent.Start by selecting an exhaust fan with an appropriate CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating for your specific grow tent size. The CFM rating determines the amount of air the fan can move per minute, and it’s crucial to choose a fan that can sufficiently exchange the air within the tent to create negative pressure. Install the exhaust fan at the highest point in the grow tent to effectively remove warm and stale air from the space. Mounting the fan near the top allows it to expel the warm air, which naturally rises.The negative pressure then automatically draws in fresh air from the lower intake points. Depending on the size and airflow requirements of your grow tent, consider adding a lower intake fan to facilitate controlled air exchange. An intake fan can help regulate the inflow of fresh air and contribute to maintaining balanced pressure within the tent. Want the exhaust higher CFM than lower Intakes, this is what will give us a negative pressure The passive air intake point in the lower portion of the tent allows fresh air to enter passively. Properly positioned and sized passive intake openings ensure a steady flow of fresh air, contributing to the creation of negative pressure when combined with the exhaust fan’s airflow. Co2's density is such gravity pulls it to the bottom 2-3 inches of any enclosure. Adjust passive intake accordingly, and be as close to the floor as possible. I use a 4" intake passive injecting co2 rich air through the 100 gallon, this pours CO2-dense air around plants in a rough 360 degrees arc from a central point, when the main exhaust kicks in and negative pressure goes from the lower intakes will draw air through the rootzones, oxygenation of rootzones, wicking moisture. Keeping RH 40%-45% on exhaust keeping air on the dryer side, now that the plant is big that fan is never off at night but it keeps that air with lots of space for more moisture from the plant and more moisture from the soil. The faster you can cycle water, more nutrients you can uptake. Slight negative pressure is good for maximizing the yield of a growth regime. It makes it easier to control the temperature, humidity, CO2 levels, and other contaminants of the tent. Well, too much of everything is always bad. And the same does for negative pressure as well. So, how would you understand whether the negative pressure exceeded the limit? The simple trick is- if the tent itself seems to pull itself inwards, the negative pressure is still under the tolerable limit. If the pressure gets as high as it bends the poles inwards, that’s where the danger limit starts. So, if you see the poles bend inwards, the negative pressure is something to worry about. Otherwise, if it’s the tent itself if pulled inwards slightly, you don’t have to worry about it. The cohesion-tension theory explains how negative pressure enables water movement from the roots to the leaves of a cannabis plant. As water evaporates from the leaf surfaces through stomata, tension is created, generating a suction force that pulls water upwards through the xylem vessels. This process relies on the cohesive forces between water molecules, forming a continuous column for efficient water transport. In cannabis plants, xylem vessels serve as the conduits for water transport. These specialized cells form interconnected channels that allow water to move upwards from the roots to the leaves. The negative pressure generated through the cohesion-tension mechanism helps drive the water flow within the xylem vessels. Negative pressure facilitates the movement of water from the soil, through the roots, and up to the leaves of cannabis plants. It helps maintain proper hydration and turgor pressure, ensuring the cells remain firm and upright. This is crucial for healthy growth and structural support. Negative pressure transports water and aids in the uptake and transport of dissolved nutrients within the cannabis plant. As water is pulled up through the xylem vessels, essential nutrients and minerals are transported along with it, supplying the various tissues and organs where they are needed for optimal growth and development. ROOTS OXYGEN As well as releasing oxygen created during photosynthesis, plants need to absorb oxygen to perform respiration – i.e. to make energy. Since plant roots are non-photosynthetic tissues that can’t produce oxygen, they get it from air pockets in the soil or grow medium. These air pockets can vary in size based on the makeup of the growing medium, and also on the water saturation levels of the medium. Root oxygenation and soil aeration play an important role in both transpiration and cellular respiration in all plants. This means that plants are highly dependent on the growing medium that holds the optimal amount of oxygen within. Make sure not to overwater, as roots in compacted soil or fully submerged in water with low O2 can cause irreversible damage if left unchecked. This is why even when growing hydroponically, when the roots are submerged in water, it’s important to have an air pump to incorporate adequate O2 to the roots. Grow mediums like coco coir and soils that contain perlite promote aeration and are less prone to overwatering. TEMPS Whether it’s sunlight outdoors or artificial lights indoors, when light heats the air temperature, soil temperature also rises. But it’s not only the air that influences the soil temperature; the grow medium, plant depth, and moisture level can also change how well the soil releases or retains heat. Not all growers monitor soil temperature, but roots are the reservoir system of water and nutrients, and if they are the wrong temperature, things can deteriorate quickly for any plant. Roots are a living part of the plant and therefore have an optimal temperature range in which they thrive at water and nutrient uptake. Although every plant varies, root temperatures above 88°F & below 55°F (above 31°C and below 12°C) can result in stunted growth and ultimately plant death if exposed for too long. 73-76, Avoid going over 77F as common bacterial growth explodes above 77, if disease strikes it's going to strike 10x faster above 77F. WATER Water is one of the most important factors of cannabis growth and development; both transpiration and photosynthesis involve water. Irregular watering can lead to irregular plant growth and development. Too little water and your plant can become dry, brittle, and stressed. Too much water and your plant’s roots can be deprived of important oxygen, and even drown. One of water’s most important purposes is the transportation and movement of nutrients and minerals, which are typically absorbed in the roots and distributed throughout the rest of the plant. The faster the plant can rid itself of water through transpiration the faster it can uptake more water to get more nutrients to where they need to be, by creating a negative pressure we optimize turgor pressure increasing nutrient uptake, by sticking to VPD we optimize transpiration rate and maximize stomatal openings, with sound frequency we open them further. NUTRIENTS Plant growth and development depends on nutrients derived from the soil or air, or supplemented through fertilizer. There are eighteen essential elements for plant nutrition, each with their own functions in the plant, levels of requirement, and characteristics. Nutrient requirements generally increase with the growth of plants, and deficiencies or excesses of nutrients can damage plants by slowing or inhibiting growth and reducing yield. Many deficiencies can be recognized by observing plant leaves. When most people hear the word “fertilizer” they think of synthetic fertilizers, but the word fertilizer refers to any substance or mixture added to soil or a growing medium that increases its fertility or ability to sustain life. Some fertilizers are synthetically produced, and others are mixtures of decomposed organic waste such as worm castings or bat guano (aka bat poop), which are rich in essential nutrients. Plants require eighteen elements found in nature to properly grow and develop. Some of these elements are utilized within the physical plant structure, namely carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O). These elements, obtained from the air (CO2) and water (H2O), are the basis for carbohydrates such as sugars and starch, which provide the strength of cell walls, stems, and leaves, and are also sources of energy for the plant and organisms that consume the plant. Elements used in large quantities by the plant are termed macronutrients, which can be further defined as primary or secondary. The primary nutrients include nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). These elements contribute to plant nutrient content, the function of plant enzymes and biochemical processes, and the integrity of plant cells. Deficiency of these nutrients contributes to reduced plant growth, health, and yield; thus they are the three most important nutrients supplied by fertilizers. The secondary nutrients include calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S). The final essential elements are used in small quantities by the plant, but nevertheless are necessary for plant survival. These micronutrients include iron (Fe), boron (B), copper (Cu), chlorine (Cl), Manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn), cobalt (Co), and nickel (Ni). 18 elements essential for plant nutrition, and classify the essential elements as macronutrients or micronutrients. Macronutrients: used in large quantities by the plant Structural nutrients: C, H, O Primary nutrients: N, P, K Secondary nutrients: Ca, Mg, S Micronutrients: used in small quantities by the plant Fe, B, Cu, Cl, Mn, Mo, Zn, Co, Ni Nitrogen: found in chlorophyll, nucleic acids, and amino acids; component of protein and enzymes. Phosphorus: an essential component of DNA, RNA, and phospholipids, which play critical roles in cell membranes; also plays a major role in the energy system (ATP) of plants. Potassium: plays a major role in the metabolism of the plant, and is involved in photosynthesis, drought tolerance, improved winter hardiness, and protein synthesis. Nitrogen availability limits the productivity of most cropping systems in the US. It is a component of chlorophyll, so when nitrogen is insufficient, leaves will take on a yellow (chlorotic) appearance down the middle of the leaf. New plant growth will be reduced as well and may appear red or red-brown. Because of its essential role in amino acids and proteins, deficient plants and grains will have low protein content. Nitrogen excess results in extremely dark green leaves, and promotes vegetative plant growth. This growth, particularly of grains, may exceed the plant's ability to hold itself upright, and increased lodging is observed. Nitrogen is mobile both in the soil and in the plant, which affects its application and management, as discussed later. Phosphorus is another essential macronutrient whose deficiency is a major consideration in cropping systems. It is an essential part of the components of DNA and RNA, and is involved in cell membrane function and integrity. It is also a component of the ATP system, the "energy currency" of plants and animals. Phosphorus deficiency is seen as purple or reddish discolorations of plant leaves, and is accompanied by poor growth of the plant and roots, reduced yield and early fruit drop, and delayed maturity. Phosphorus excess can also present problems, though it is not as common. Excess P can induce a zinc deficiency through biochemical interactions. Phosphorus is generally immobile in the soil, which influences its application methods, and is somewhat mobile in plants. Potassium is the third most commonly supplemented macronutrient. It has important functions in plant metabolism, is part of the regulation of water loss, and is necessary for adaptations to stress (such as drought and cold). Plants that are deficient in potassium may exhibit reductions in yield before any visible symptoms are noticed. These symptoms include yellowing of the margins and veins and crinkling or rolling of the leaves. An excess, meanwhile, will result in reduced plant uptake of magnesium, due to chemical interactions. The mobility of a nutrient in the soil determines how much can be lost due to leaching or runoff. The mobility of a nutrient in the plant determines where deficiency symptoms show up. Nutrients that are mobile in the plant will move to new growth areas, so the deficiency symptoms will first show up in older leaves. Nutrients that are not mobile in the plant will not move to new growth areas, so deficiency symptoms will first show up in the new growth. Nutrient mobility varies among the essential elements and represents an important consideration when planning fertilizer applications. For instance, NO3- nitrogen is very mobile in the soil, and will leach easily. Excessive or improper application increases the risk of water contamination. Meanwhile, phosphorus is relatively immobile in the soil and is thus less likely to runoff. At the same time, it is also less available to plants, as it cannot "migrate" easily through the soil profile. Thus, P is often banded close to seeds to make sure it can be reached by starting roots. Nutrients also have variable degrees of mobility in the plant, which influences where deficiency symptoms appear. For nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are mobile in the plant, deficiency symptoms will appear in older leaves. As new leaves develop, they will take the nutrients from the old leaves and use them to grow. The old leaves are then left without enough nutrients, and display the symptoms. The opposite is true of immobile nutrients like calcium; the new leaves will have symptoms first because they cannot take nutrients from the old leaves, and there is not enough in the soil for their needs. In general, plant nutrient needs start low while the plants are young and small, increase rapidly through vegetative growth, and then decrease again around the time of reproductive development (i.e., silking and tasseling). While absolute nutrient requirements may be low for young plants, they often require or benefit from high levels in the soil around them. The nutrient status of the early seedlings will affect the overall plant development and yield. Plants entering the reproductive stages have high nutrient requirements, but many of these are satisfied by redistributing nutrients from the vegetative parts. Nitrogen: nitrate (NO3-) and ammonium (NH4+) Phosphorus: phosphate (HPO42- and H2PO4-) Potassium: K+ Calcium: Ca2+ Magnesium: Mg2+ Sulfur: sulfate (SO4-)

Gratitude. Gave her another application of Gibberelin, same as before. What can I do to increase the rate of cellular respiration? We are adding more reactants, like glucose. Photosynthetic efficiency is the fraction of light energy converted into chemical energy during photosynthesis in green plants and algae. The simplified chemical reaction can describe photosynthesis 6 H2O + 6 CO2 + energy → C6H12O6 + 6 O2 where C6H12O6 is glucose (which is subsequently transformed into other sugars, starches, cellulose, lignin, and so forth). The value of the photosynthetic efficiency is dependent on how light energy is defined – it depends on whether we count only the light that is absorbed, and on what kind of light is used (see Photosynthetically active radiation). It takes eight (or perhaps ten or more) photons to use one molecule of CO2. The Gibbs free energy for converting a mole of CO2 to glucose is 114 kcal, whereas eight moles of photons of wavelength 600 nm contains 381 kcal, giving a nominal efficiency of 30%. However, photosynthesis can occur with light up to wavelength 720 nm so long as there is also light at wavelengths below 680 nm to keep Photosystem II operating (see Chlorophyll). Using longer wavelengths means less light energy is needed for the same number of photons and therefore for the same amount of photosynthesis. For actual sunlight, where only 45% of the light is in the photosynthetically active wavelength range, the theoretical maximum efficiency of solar energy conversion is approximately 11%. In actuality, however, plants do not absorb all incoming sunlight (due to reflection, respiration requirements of photosynthesis, and the need for optimal solar radiation levels) and do not convert all harvested energy into biomass, which results in a maximum overall photosynthetic efficiency of 3 to 6% of total solar radiation. If photosynthesis is inefficient, excess light energy must be dissipated to avoid damaging the photosynthetic apparatus. Energy can be dissipated as heat (non-photochemical quenching), or emitted as chlorophyll fluorescence. Starting with the solar spectrum falling on a leaf, 47% lost due to photons outside the 400–700 nm active range (chlorophyll uses photons between 400 and 700 nm, extracting the energy of one 700 nm photon from each one) 30% of the in-band photons are lost due to incomplete absorption or photons hitting components other than chloroplasts 24% of the absorbed photon energy is lost due to degrading short wavelength photons to the 700 nm energy level 68% of the used energy is lost in conversion into d-glucose 35–45% of the glucose is consumed by the leaf in the processes of dark and photorespiration Stated another way: 100% sunlight → non-bioavailable photons waste is 47%, leaving 53% (in the 400–700 nm range) → 30% of photons are lost due to incomplete absorption, leaving 37% (absorbed photon energy) → 24% is lost due to wavelength-mismatch degradation to 700 nm energy, leaving 28.2% (sunlight energy collected by chlorophyll) → 68% is lost in conversion of ATP and NADPH to d-glucose, leaving 9% (collected as sugar) → 35–40% of sugar is recycled/consumed by the leaf in dark and photo-respiration, leaving 5.4% net leaf efficiency. Far-red In efforts to increase photosynthetic efficiency, researchers have proposed extending the spectrum of light that is available for photosynthesis. One approach involves incorporating pigments like chlorophyll d and f, which are capable of absorbing far-red light, into the photosynthetic machinery of higher plants. Naturally present in certain cyanobacteria, these chlorophylls enable photosynthesis with far-red light that standard chlorophylls a and b cannot utilize. By adapting these pigments for use in higher plants, it is hoped that plants can be engineered to utilize a wider range of the light spectrum, potentially leading to increased growth rates and biomass production. Green Green light is considered the least efficient wavelength in the visible spectrum for photosynthesis and presents an opportunity for increased utilization. Chlorophyll c is a pigment found in marine algae with blue-green absorption and could be used to expand absorption in the green wavelengths in plants. Expression of the dinoflagellate CHLOROPHYLL C SYNTHASE gene in the plant Nicotiana benthamiana resulted in the heterologous production of chlorophyll c. This was the first successful introduction of a foreign chlorophyll molecule into a higher plant and is the first step towards bioengineering plants for improved photosynthetic performance across a variety of lighting conditions. Photosynthesis by day, Cellular respiration by night. Co2 doesn't change the parameters of the environment that are suitable for the plant. Co2 increases the efficiency with which the plant captures carbon from the air and mixes with water using stored energy from photosyynthesis into carbo(sugar)hydrates(water). Max energy a plant can convert in any one cycle is 40 mole per day at 400 ppm. 60 mole per day at 12-1800 ppm. Notice that light intensity, carbon dioxide concentration, and temperature are the three main factors that impact photosynthesis. Greater light intensity leads to higher photosynthesis rates, as does increased carbon dioxide concentration. Temperature is also directly linked to the rate of respiration Q10 Temperature coefficient. This is a key factor affecting photosynthesis. Low CO2 affects the Calvin Cycle. If CO2 levels are low, rubisco cannot convert RuBP to GP in step one of the Calvin Cycle. This leads to the accumulation of RuBP and an overall slowing of the Calvin Cycle, which results in a fall in the production of TP/GALP. CO2 is not needed at night so turn it off. Nights should be focused on respiration and dealing with excess moisture spat into the air all night long, keeping ambient canopy RH 40-45%. This keeps a constant negative pressure overnight. Oxygen is what a plant needs at night, only oxygen diffuses into the leaves and only carbon dioxide diffuses out. Vpd is just a measure of temperature and humidity. The drier the air the more space it has to spit more moisture out. As soon as those lights go out she is just spitting moisture. All the energy the plant collects during the day must be processed overnight. Grow tents at night reaching upward of 65%RH or thereabouts things start to drift from optimal. If the plant only converts a percent of all the energy it gathered during the day and doesn't process it all that night, the plant keeps a surplus which will detract from the next day's DLI. I was surprised, stunned even at how much more water she needed to maintain the intense daytime cooling. Daytime priority is keeping temps under 86 and hitting a DLI of 40-60moles, supplement CO2. Nighttime is about maxing out the rate of respiration and getting rid of water ASAP. To make use of all the energy stored in the stems the plant needs to convert a lot of the stored energy to sugars then the plant mixes them with nutrients to make more complex cells, more nutrients, and more water until there is no energy left stored in those stems. If we don't optimize night cycle, like everything else with cannabis plants, the entire production of the plant as a whole will bottleneck at the place in the line that is least efficient. At night If you can stick to 40-45%RH, you should keep semi-optimal turgor pressure, negative pressure, and humidity for quick removal of water vapor generated under the stomata. Keeping 40-45 % should mean keeping temps around 73-83 and keeping your VPD in the "green" for most of the flowering period. I kinda think of it like PH, in that 6.5 is not the best for every nutrient but it's about balance across the spectrum of variables. VPD is similar. Becomes very hard to micro-manage if you focus on too many controllers its hard to keep everything perfect always. You can't keep it perfect 100%, all the time, well you can but the electrical cost of doing so very quickly changes your mind as electrical components sensors start fighting each other and cycling 24/7. I made the decision to pack everything the plant will ever need and then some into the soil, letting the plant dictate its own feeding schedule based on the demand the environment places on it.

After my 2 month coma stone we are back at it. New digs too. Experiments have shown that treating soil with magnetized water and/or low-frequency current (0.5 or 5 A) activates soil potassium and phosphorus, thereby increasing their bioavailability. 23. Chemical Abstracts 96: 49235b; ibid., 96: 67828b 24. Appl. Electr. Phenom. 6: 454-458 (Nov.-Dec. 1967) Aloe vera is ideal as a rooting powder alternative because it contains glucomannans, amino acids, sterols, and vitamins. Studies show that these help many types of species develop more and stronger roots when growing cuttings or propagating via air layering. Turmeric is an excellent natural rooting hormone Cinnamon as a rooting agent is as useful. Small mixture of all 3. The ancient tradition of Sacred Geometry is still alive and well in the person of Frank Chester. He has discovered a new geometric form that unites the five Platonic solids and provides some startling indications about the form and function of the human heart. This new form, called the Chestahedron, was discovered in 2000, and is a seven-sided polyhedron with surfaces of equal area. Frank has been exploring the form and its significance for over a decade, His work has potential implications across a number of areas, from physiology to architecture, sculpture, geology, and beyond. Organic cotton stands out with a frequency of 100, mirroring the human body's frequency. *burp* It's all bout the salt https://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/seawater.htm Water moves counterclockwise around quartzite oxygenated. Plants need elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of the total but are nonetheless vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. on that note, some points of interest regarding Boron. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6073895/ Boron (B) is an essential trace element required for the physiological functioning of higher plants. B deficiency is considered as a nutritional disorder that adversely affects the metabolism and growth of plants. B is involved in the structural and functional integrity of the cell wall and membranes, ion fluxes (H+, K+, PO43−, Rb+, Ca2+) across the membranes, cell division and elongation, nitrogen and carbohydrate metabolism, sugar transport, cytoskeletal proteins, and plasmalemma-bound enzymes, nucleic acid, indoleacetic acid, polyamines, ascorbic acid, and phenol metabolism and transport. This review critically examines the functions of B in plants, deficiency symptoms, and the mechanism of B uptake and transport under limited B conditions. B deficiency can be mitigated by inorganic fertilizer supplementation, but the deleterious impact of frequent fertilizer application disrupts soil fertility and creates environmental pollution. Considering this, we have summarized the available information regarding alternative approaches, such as root structural modification, grafting, application of biostimulators (mycorrhizal fungi (MF) and rhizobacteria), and nanotechnology, that can be effectively utilized for B acquisition, leading to resource conservation. Additionally, we have discussed several new aspects, such as the combination of grafting or MF with nanotechnology, combined inoculation of arbuscular MF and rhizobacteria, melatonin application, and the use of natural and synthetic chelators, that possibly play a role in B uptake and translocation under B stress conditions. Apart from the data obtained from agricultural reports that prove the involvement of B in plant growth and development, B often results in deficiency or toxicity because it is a unique micronutrient for which the threshold levels of deficiency and toxicity are very narrow [12]. B deficiency and excess are both widespread agricultural problems for higher plants in arid and semi-arid conditions. B deficiency was primarily observed in apples growing in Australia in the 1930s and subsequently reported in more than 132 field crops grown in sandy soils with low pH and organic matter from 80 different countries [28]. Depending on the age and species, plants manifest a wide range of deficiency symptoms, including stunted root growth, restricted apical meristem growth, brittle leaves, reduced chlorophyll content and photosynthetic activity, disruption in ion transport, increased phenolic and lignin contents, and reduced crop yield [1,8,20]. The prevalence of symptoms depends on the severity of the B-deficiency condition because plants show uniform deficiency symptoms on entire leaves but sometimes in the form of isolated patches. Given the immobile nature of B, it usually accumulates in mature leaves, whereas young leaves do not receive sufficient B for proper growth. Thus, the deficiency symptoms first appear on young leaves, including thick, curled, and brittle leaves with reduced leaf expansion; corky veins; interveinal chlorosis; yellow water-soaked spots on lamina; and a short internodal distance, resulting in a bushy plant appearance [14,29,30]. In severe cases, leaf apex necrosis and leaf dieback occur [12]. The expansion of stems and petioles leads to hollow stem disorder in broccoli and stem crack symptoms in celery [1]. However, in tomato, cauliflower, apple, and citrus, scaly surface development with internal and external corking of fruits is a typical feature associated with B deficiency [13,28]. Amino acids improve plant nutrition by affecting soil microbial activity through the production of a beneficial microbial community and nutrient mineralization in the soil solution, thus enhancing micronutrient mobility [84]. Seaweed extract contains several ions, growth regulators, carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, and polyuronides, including alginates and fucoidans. These polyuronides can form highly cross-linked polymers and condition the soil, thereby improving the water retention and ion uptake capacity within the soil [89]. Kahydrin, a commercial seaweed component, acidifies the rhizosphere by altering the plasma membrane proton pump and secretes H+ ions that change the soil redox condition and make the metal ions available to plants, leading to improved crop production [90]. Turan and Kose [91] applied three seaweed extracts, including Maxicrop, Algipower, and Proton, on grapevine (Vitis vinifera L. cv. Karaerik) to check the ion uptake efficacy under optimal and deficient ion availability. Maximum micronutrient uptake under optimal conditions were observed with no significant difference among the three kinds of extracts. The alteration in uptake of one ion influences the availability of another ion [85], supporting the idea of B uptake through biostimulator application, but this requires further investigation. The application of biofertilizers opens new routes of ion acquisition by increasing nutrient use efficiency in plants. In this regard, mycorrhizal and non-mycorrhizal fungi, endosymbiotic bacteria, and plant-growth-promoting rhizobacteria are important because of their dual function as microbial biostimulants and biocontrol agents. We explain the functions of these biostimulators and their possible relationship with ion acquisition in plants. Indeed, grafting and AMF inoculation improve plant physiological and nutritional aspects and a number of studies have proved their pivotal role in B uptake [74,75,79,105]. Additionally, nanotechnology is an emerging technique to solve plant-nutrition-related problems. The combination of these techniques may improve B uptake. For instance, a combination of grafting and Cu NPs improved growth and development of watermelon by increasing ion uptake [129]. Melatonin application improves plant performance by inducing resistance against stress conditions. According to a report, melatonin application reversed the toxic effect of B by moderating B accumulation in leaf and fruit, increasing photosynthetic activity, and improving dry weight that ultimately enhanced plant growth of Capsicum annuum [138]. Similarly, in watermelon, melatonin application enhanced the N concentration in roots by improving root elongation, root diameter, and root surface area under limited N availability [61]. However, no evidence for B uptake under deficient conditions has been found yet, and that requires further investigation. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8508192/ https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34988929/

All right here we are guys day 52 a flower 114 total I think I'm going to hit her with recharge one more time and the next day or so and then that's it water the rest of the way as I'm sure from top dressing there's still some nutrients making its way through the medium.. the nugs are starting to get rock hard and they actually are starting to smell like strawberries which is amazing.. as you can tell and as I've mentioned before I've done a ton of training to her she started her life in a bad home but we got her out of there at a young age put her in the right home and look at her go.. plants are a lot more like human than we know.. they're fragile when they're young like us then when we hit puberty it's the equivalent of them showing sex and that's when us humans stretch just like the plants and then we are considered adults where we are off on our own to produce our own fruits from our own labor.. the only difference between us and a plant is we devour our own fruit the plant feeds everything and everyone but itself.. we can learn a thing or two from plants.. anyway thank you WEEDSEEDSEXPRESS again for the opportunity I highly suggest you guys check them out God bless everyone and happy growing ✌️😎 https://weedseedsexpress.com/us

They finally started stretching a bit. Had me worried that they would be forever stunted.

Gas tax x obama runtz there is not alot to update this week. They have not grown very much the past week. They got extra dark last time when I watered and gave 2ml per gal of grow big. They are still the smallest 2 plants in the tent. They both have started making their 1st set of leaves with 5 point although the other leaves have not started to get larger yet. I don't think they have rooted solid quite yet. Happy late turkey day grow diaries world!!!! It's now day 24 from seed for all the seedlings I have going. The past few days the plants have really started to take off. There roots have really started to dig in. Every other water I am still giving 2ml per gal of fox farm grow big. I keep having to tell myself not to add any more nutes other than that. I don't want to fry my plants but I also want they to start jumping. I'm quite excited for the coming week, I think the next 7 days or so is when the plant really starts to transform and look more like a pot plant than just some random little green thing. A few days ago I decided to move the plants from under my 55w cheep amazon light to under my spider farmer 100w newer version light with the good leds in it. The plants will hopefully be ready to up pot them here soon and get them in the large tent. Sometimes when growing multiple different strains it can be really hard to balance giving to much or to little light. You don't want the faster growing plants to get to stretched out waiting on the slower plants to catch up I spend Thanksgiving day morning transplanting the plants into 2gal pots. I am useing spme promix potting soil it's my 1st time tring this soil. It is actually doing really well the roots were all white and nice looking. I think next time I'm going to add some worm casting, kelp, granular mycos, and a little bit extra perlite. I just didn't have the money with christmas coming to splurge for all the extra stuff. I got rid of 2 plants 1 of the bubble og and 1 skunk apple runtz. There is only room for 10 pots in the 2x4 tent. I will peob only bring 8 of them to flower, always good to have back ups. Yesterday I also stuck the plants back under the 500w medicgrow mini sun 2 in my 2x4 tent. They did great under it the 2nd half the day I was happy they didn't get stressed. I had put them under that light a little early about 10 days ago or so. I am expecting in a week these plants will ge going crazy with growth

Ive got two Skunk Apple Runz plants(tossed 1 when I repotted the plants) with exotic-looking leaves and some great genetics. These are seeds I made and both the parents were top notch. They're both about five inches tall and growing strong they both seem to have the growth strength from the ricky bobby Unfortunately, one of them might not make it because of some damage or mutation im not sure, it just seems to have stop growing upward correctly but the other one's looking really healthy. Happy late turkey day grow diaries world!!!! It's now day 24 from seed for all the seedlings I have going. The past few days the plants have really started to take off. There roots have really started to dig in. Every other water I am still giving 2ml per gal of fox farm grow big. I keep having to tell myself not to add any more nutes other than that. I don't want to fry my plants but I also want they to start jumping. I'm quite excited for the coming week, I think the next 7 days or so is when the plant really starts to transform and look more like a pot plant than just some random little green thing. A few days ago I decided to move the plants from under my 55w cheep amazon light to under my spider farmer 100w newer version light with the good leds in it. The plants will hopefully be ready to up pot them here soon and get them in the large tent. Sometimes when growing multiple different strains it can be really hard to balance giving to much or to little light. You don't want the faster growing plants to get to stretched out waiting on the slower plants to catch up I spend Thanksgiving day morning transplanting the plants into 2gal pots. I am useing spme promix potting soil it's my 1st time tring this soil. It is actually doing really well the roots were all white and nice looking. I think next time I'm going to add some worm casting, kelp, granular mycos, and a little bit extra perlite. I just didn't have the money with christmas coming to splurge for all the extra stuff. I got rid of 2 plants 1 of the bubble og and 1 skunk apple runtz. There is only room for 10 pots in the 2x4 tent. I will peob only bring 8 of them to flower, always good to have back ups. Yesterday I also stuck the plants back under the 500w medicgrow mini sun 2 in my 2x4 tent. They did great under it the 2nd half the day I was happy they didn't get stressed. I had put them under that light a little early about 10 days ago or so. I am expecting in a week these plants will ge going crazy with growth

This Permanent Marker is a smaller plant, only about 4 inches tall. But what it lacks in size, it makes up for in those super distinct wide leaves that make it a standout. While it's a steady grower, it does have a big appetite, always seeming to need more nutrients. The other Permanent Marker plant is also around 4 inches, but it's growing much faster than the other one. Its super skinny, pointy leaves are what really make it stand out from the rest. At 1st I thought this plant was going to be a dud but is starting to out pace the other plant. Happy late turkey day grow diaries world!!!! It's now day 24 from seed for all the seedlings I have going. The past few days the plants have really started to take off. There roots have really started to dig in. Every other water I am still giving 2ml per gal of fox farm grow big. I keep having to tell myself not to add any more nutes other than that. I don't want to fry my plants but I also want they to start jumping. I'm quite excited for the coming week, I think the next 7 days or so is when the plant really starts to transform and look more like a pot plant than just some random little green thing. A few days ago I decided to move the plants from under my 55w cheep amazon light to under my spider farmer 100w newer version light with the good leds in it. The plants will hopefully be ready to up pot them here soon and get them in the large tent. Sometimes when growing multiple different strains it can be really hard to balance giving to much or to little light. You don't want the faster growing plants to get to stretched out waiting on the slower plants to catch up I spend Thanksgiving day morning transplanting the plants into 2gal pots. I am useing spme promix potting soil it's my 1st time tring this soil. It is actually doing really well the roots were all white and nice looking. I think next time I'm going to add some worm casting, kelp, granular mycos, and a little bit extra perlite. I just didn't have the money with christmas coming to splurge for all the extra stuff. I got rid of 2 plants 1 of the bubble og and 1 skunk apple runtz. There is only room for 10 pots in the 2x4 tent. I will peob only bring 8 of them to flower, always good to have back ups. Yesterday I also stuck the plants back under the 500w medicgrow mini sun 2 in my 2x4 tent. They did great under it the 2nd half the day I was happy they didn't get stressed. I had put them under that light a little early about 10 days ago or so. I am expecting in a week these plants will ge going crazy with growth

I have got a whole crew of four Bubble OG plants, and they're all doing really well. These plants are like quadruplets – they all look super similar, with the same strong smell that's kinda like a putrid skunk. They're all uniform in height and have the same spacing between their branches. It's like they're all following the same blueprint. Happy late turkey day grow diaries world!!!! It's now day 24 from seed for all the seedlings I have going. The past few days the plants have really started to take off. There roots have really started to dig in. Every other water I am still giving 2ml per gal of fox farm grow big. I keep having to tell myself not to add any more nutes other than that. I don't want to fry my plants but I also want they to start jumping. I'm quite excited for the coming week, I think the next 7 days or so is when the plant really starts to transform and look more like a pot plant than just some random little green thing. A few days ago I decided to move the plants from under my 55w cheep amazon light to under my spider farmer 100w newer version light with the good leds in it. The plants will hopefully be ready to up pot them here soon and get them in the large tent. Sometimes when growing multiple different strains it can be really hard to balance giving to much or to little light. You don't want the faster growing plants to get to stretched out waiting on the slower plants to catch up I spend Thanksgiving day morning transplanting the plants into 2gal pots. I am useing spme promix potting soil it's my 1st time tring this soil. It is actually doing really well the roots were all white and nice looking. I think next time I'm going to add some worm casting, kelp, granular mycos, and a little bit extra perlite. I just didn't have the money with christmas coming to splurge for all the extra stuff. I got rid of 2 plants 1 of the bubble og and 1 skunk apple runtz. There is only room for 10 pots in the 2x4 tent. I will peob only bring 8 of them to flower, always good to have back ups. Yesterday I also stuck the plants back under the 500w medicgrow mini sun 2 in my 2x4 tent. They did great under it the 2nd half the day I was happy they didn't get stressed. I had put them under that light a little early about 10 days ago or so. I am expecting in a week these plants will ge going crazy with growth

I started with three Blackberry Moon Rock seeds, and two of them sprouted – awesome! These girls are loving life, reaching for the sky as the tallest plants in my tent. They're already about six inches tall, and they're taking up all the nutrients very well without any nute burn. Both blackberry moonrocks plants are very similar height although they have very different looks to them. The one of the 2 definitely going ti strech alot more than the other. One has internodes about 1 cm apart rn and the other is about 3/4 to 1 inch between nodes. Happy late turkey day grow diaries world!!!! It's now day 24 from seed for all the seedlings I have going. The past few days the plants have really started to take off. There roots have really started to dig in. Every other water I am still giving 2ml per gal of fox farm grow big. I keep having to tell myself not to add any more nutes other than that. I don't want to fry my plants but I also want they to start jumping. I'm quite excited for the coming week, I think the next 7 days or so is when the plant really starts to transform and look more like a pot plant than just some random little green thing. A few days ago I decided to move the plants from under my 55w cheep amazon light to under my spider farmer 100w newer version light with the good leds in it. The plants will hopefully be ready to up pot them here soon and get them in the large tent. Sometimes when growing multiple different strains it can be really hard to balance giving to much or to little light. You don't want the faster growing plants to get to stretched out waiting on the slower plants to catch up I spend Thanksgiving day morning transplanting the plants into 2gal pots. I am useing spme promix potting soil it's my 1st time tring this soil. It is actually doing really well the roots were all white and nice looking. I think next time I'm going to add some worm casting, kelp, granular mycos, and a little bit extra perlite. I just didn't have the money with christmas coming to splurge for all the extra stuff. I got rid of 2 plants 1 of the bubble og and 1 skunk apple runtz. There is only room for 10 pots in the 2x4 tent. I will peob only bring 8 of them to flower, always good to have back ups. Yesterday I also stuck the plants back under the 500w medicgrow mini sun 2 in my 2x4 tent. They did great under it the 2nd half the day I was happy they didn't get stressed. I had put them under that light a little early about 10 days ago or so. I am expecting in a week these plants will ge going crazy with growth

11-25-2024 - All three plants received 2000ml PH'd tap water with a dose of Recharge and Silica yesterday. These plants are in full on stretch mode now and they're growing rapidly. These three plants are already as tall as the last grow I had and we're not even into flower yet. My expectation is this week all three plants will go into flower. I'm seeing pre-flower on two of the three plants and would expect that all three will have signs by end of tomorrow. The Mystery Seed continues to be pushed in ways the other two have not. I top dressed the Mystery seed yesterday with 3 Tbsp Gaia Green Power Bloom and we'll see if that makes a difference or kills the plant. I suspect it'll be ok. If I do not detect any burning I'll probably treat all three with power bloom next week. Otherwise, things have been going exactly to plan. There are no blemishes on the leaves and they've been maintaining a healthy green throughout the grow. I'm going to be watering a little more frequently as we get fully into flower AND I'll be ramping up the lighting in the tent to between 600-700PPFD. Should top out between 900-1000PPFD within the next couple weeks. 11-27-2024 - At this point I'm the big worry for these plants going forward as I have a hard time not messing with them. Since these are Autos, I'm only performing necessary defoliation to expose bud sites. As these girls head into flower I want to make sure I have light getting to as many as possible. These plants look very healthy and two of three are in pre-flower while the "Mystery" seed continues to stay in veg but is also an inch or two shorter than the other two plants....and has been topped. All three plants right now are as tall as the last three plants when I harvested so I consider this a good sign. Happy Thanksgiving!! 11-28-2024 - Happy Thanksgiving. Today I'm thankful for sites like this where I've learned so much. This morning, my CO2 levels finally are getting over 1000ppm which can only mean that the exhale bag is working now....took about 3.5 weeks. This morning I watered all three plants each with 2 Liters of dechlorinated tap water PH'd to 6.5. My tent conditions are OPTIMAL @ 75F/60%RH/1.1VPD/1000PPM CO2 and PPFD readings at the top of the canopy at 650 or so. The plants are growing vigorously now and are getting ready to go into full flower. I would expect flower sites throughout by the start of week 6 if not sooner. Its flower time! 11-29-2024 - Plants grew over an inch since yesterday and all three are stretching nicely. The Mystery Seed, which I topped, is a couple inches shorter but coming along nicely. All three are healthy, no bugs, no signs of anything except health. The conditions in the tent are still perfect and I'm feeling very confident in a good harvest. 11-30-2024 - Bumped up the lights this morning to 70% which should yield around 700-750 PPFD. Watered Granite Runtz and Frosted Cherry O's 2 liters each but the Mystery Seed was still a little wet so I'll water that one tomorrow. Its still not in flower so water uptake is a little less. CO2 levels continue to hover around 1000ppm and I've bumped the humidity down to around 50-54% since they're heading into flower. I also top dressed both the Granite Runtz and Frosted Cherry O's with Gaia Green Power Bloom.

🍍 is 3 days younger that top g But there is big diffrence with vegetive grow

Looking well so far. Will update properly when I have more time

And hear come the Buds!! Oh ya buddie

as u can see

Well welcome to week one flower ! I am so grateful she seems happy starting to get the system balanced I’m running rdwc two five gallon buckets with a 3” flex line connecting the base to base With ball valves to control the water height in grow bucket 320gph sub pump in the Reservoir bucket then to water chiller back to grow bucket large enough dependable oxygen pump for grow and reservoir water oxygenation I also alternate Southern Ag GFF and Hydro guard let’s go!

Blütewoche 5 Tag 1: 3,3 Liter ausgegastes Leitungswasser. Lampenhöhe erneut nach justiert. - Es gab das erste mal Runoff. Tag 2: Tag 3: 😱Massephase Tag 4: 0,5l sonder Fütterung Tag 5: 2,6l reichhaltige Nährlösung Tag 6: 😱

Was another good week this week. Seem to have figured out the brown spotting, started adding sensi-calmag to the mix and the spotting has stopped and leaf color is darkening back up. Not sure if was from calmag deficiency or low nitrogen, but either way they look better so it seems like it was the right call. Did a light defoliation early in the week, maybe a dozen leaves per plant. Just the usual stuff under canopy or bunching too much. Has been much easier to keep humidity down since the heavy defoliation a week ago. Buds are really starting to look good on three of the four plants with the front left being furthest along. She is starting to pack frost already! Back left still looks a week behind, but coming in strong. Could this be a come from behind winner? Last day of the week took apart the Autopot system for a good clean. Clean the res, flush the lines with line cleaner, pull and clean the valves with dish soap, cleaned out the trays, wipe down the underside of the pots and back together it all goes. Been running for 40 days and this is the first clean, should be the only one as there's only maybe 40 days left. I find the B52 builds up a bit of sludge after a month or so, but worth using have seen noticable better grows since adding it to the feedings. Either way, an hour of work once a grow is nothing to complain about VS all the time out in hand watering. Also a big improvement on the newer 5.0 valves vs the previous generation. They are about double the diameter, so they gunk up MUCH less and fill a lot faster. Using the old valves I was cleaning every 1-2 weeks depending on feeding frequency. Lights 18" @90% pushing 700umol/s Watering 32L every 3 days Air domes running 100% of time 4" intake @70% 6" exhaust @50% 6" Oscillating fan @50%

Week 3 2 new Strans Imperium x :3 Seeds Anisa Seed Blueberry Banana :3 Seeds Anisa seed