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Our Blue Dream by Zamnesia is the only classic strain we are growing in this round and since your friend breadandbuds loves that golden one I could only try to bring out the best in her. Remember that we are growing a plant worked with the techniques indicated and one left to grow without pruning to preserve its speed, in the previous/next diary you will find the other plant of the same strain. In this diary we find the plant worked with the main lining. The low internodal distance flats are fantastic but not the most suitable for this technique, I enjoy applying it anyway because it is too much fun. The small arms of branches are less workable and tend to be less elastic because the stiffening phase of the hemp naturally comes earlier but it can be done. In fact, little by little we are arriving at a very good result, not even in too much time to tell the truth always a month and a half of veg maximum and then we go into flowering. Slow down with nitrogen while doing this technique, you may not need everything that is recommended by the manufacturers, so if the leaves become too dark or worse, the tips of the leaves arch downwards and the leaf becomes "crunchy" we are at the moment to lighten or stop the basic grow fertilizer. . Comparison is the salt of experience, so the plant in the other diary will be worked very differently, go and see it to compare them. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhizae Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). We are feeding // 1 ml/l Power Roots - 1 ml/l Pure Zym - 1 ml/l Sugar Royal - 2 ml/l Alga Grow We sprayed 3 ml/l Vita Race foliar feed once a week. https://plagron.com/it We always have the excellent Mycorrhizae from RQS running in the soil https://www.zamnesia.io/it/5778-mix-micorrize-easy-roots.html Try this strain it promises more than good ---- // https://www.zamnesia.io/en/3271-zamnesia-seeds-blue-dream-feminized.html Short Description Zamnesia // Exceptionally tasty and potent, Blue Dream by Zamnesia Seeds is a hybrid with a distinctive and sophisticated character. A blend of Haze and Blueberry strains that manages to bring out the best of both worlds. Its short flowering time of just 9 weeks far surpasses other Haze strains! The whole world of growing and much more is at Zamnesia: just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... -- // www.zamnesia.com
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All topped for a second time. Light change here in the UK after summer solstice so should kick into flowering in the next few weeks!
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@sellem
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24/11 Starting off Week 2, they have finally found the gas pedal and are stepping on it! I Added a bowl of water to increase humidity and toned down my exhaust a notch, didnt think it would help that much, but boy it did help! Tent is sitting at 60-65%, at Plant Level its around 70%. Up from 45-55% which i guess definitely helps the little ones. Also increased ppfd to 350 by bringing the light a tad closer. Watering hasnt happened yet, soil still wet, will probably happen on 25 or 26. Will also start giving BioBizz BioGrow by then, though probably starting with 1ml/L instead of 2. Rootjuice and Activera will stay the same. lets see though! 25/11 Watered with 1L per plant, added 1ml/L BioGrow to ease them into the coming abuse. i ordered microbes just to give it a shot, will add them with the next watering. 27/11 Photoshooting! im happy with the growrate now. they had a slow start (or maybe im just spoiled by the banana purple punches, which i topped on day 12 lol) but theyre picking up the pace now. 29/11 Added Timelapse. See you in week 3!
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@rhodes68
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On the grow itself, I just got twice as much yield with 1/3 fewer plants by switching to coco and CocoTek, I would count that a win. Zero stress so I was right, grow them without stress and you will be rewarded. Just the easiest best smelling little plant to grow. Always germs well and produces long as you treat her right. It loved the CocoTek and Soul Peak finisher FIVE STARS ON BOTH add them to the list GD! If anyone needs help growing in coco coir get this book! Coco for Cannabis - MJ Coco https://www.amazon.com/Coco-Cannabis-Growers-Dr-M-J-ebook/dp/B07G9LR4W2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LYSB5G978Y1I&keywords=coco+for+cannabis&qid=1579029394&sprefix=coco+for%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-1 1/20 Absolutely the best grow yet for potency, dont want to guess but it's at the strains upper limits I am thinking from the effect.
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Buenas Farmers! Otra semana más y pasaremos a Flora, esperando a ver si podemos obtener nuevo equipo de @todoGrowled para llevar el verano más llevadero... Después de recuperase de las Plagas empieza coger buen color esto.🍁
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Everything is coming along quite nicely. They have slowed down in growth now it is time to fill out. Still feeding fish 3x daily. They have developed a pretty strong smell
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@gr3g4l
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A los 9 dias ya se veian raices por los orificios de drenaje de las macetas por lo que me decidí a trasplantarlas a maceta de 6L textiles y meterlas en el armario donde pasaran el resto de sus dias. Aumenté primero a 150 W y en cuanto estuvieron un par de dias volví a aumentar hasta los 220W. Se añadió también el humidificador para mantener una humedad relativa más alta. After 9 days, roots were already visible through the drainage holes of the pots, so I decided to transplant them into 6L fabric pots and put them in the grow tent where they would spend the rest of their days. I initially increased the lighting to 150W, and after a couple of days, I increased it again to 220W. I also added a humidifier to maintain a higher relative humidity.
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Small review on the viparspectra v300 that I used, maybe it can be usefull If someone are looking for a budget light: Cons: -it's noisy! if you are growing in your bedroom or living room etc.. keep it in mind. -the spectrum it's poor, lot of blue n little red, no green, yellow, orange, uv etc.. -it covers a little less than what the vipar claim. Pro: -among the made in china's led is one of the best built and has a long and reliable warranty period. -it's really good for vegetative. -it's very cheap to conclude, it will grow your plant quite well but do not expect super results.
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Flowering day 56 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey everyone :-). We are now close to the harvest 😍 This strain is really extremely fast 👍. Both phenotypes now remain there for 3 or 4 days before they are put in the darkroom for 48 hours 😁. The trichomes are now 70% milky and 30% amber ☺️. They were watered one last time today with 1.2 l per plant so that they can dry again until the darkroom :-). Before the last update, there will be an interim update of the harvest 👍. Until then, I wish you lots of fun with the update. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/sweet-skunk-f1-fast-version/ Type: Sweet Skunk F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Sweet Skunk Auto (SWS34) X Early Skunk 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .
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9/15 I'm starting by saying that the plant doctor is a great product. For the first time in forever I have no traces of wpm. The fusarium doesn't seem to be spreading g either. Blueberry is exploding in growth. It seems like everyday the buds are bigger. We had a MASSIVE wind storm. I mean a windstorm that knocked down trees. The blueberry was the only one that wasn't properly vertically trellises. My tiny little supports didn't hold. Nothing broke and there's no damage but I had to move the plant and secure it better. I didn't have time before the doctor but I HAD to do it. I used the trellis from another plant to keep the branches upright as they're so heavy. If it RAINED those branches would've snapped for sure. I put the little one in the lean-to beside the barn out of the wind. Blueberry is getting closer. I really think k it'll make it. UPDATE: I took some buds from the plants that died in early flower and washed them for ice water hash. Well I'm in the process of washing some. There's a lot and I want to see if it's any good before I kill my arms. It's a great forearm workout though. Although it's hard to take a drink now. Of course that's when it REALKY started bubbling furiously. I know I'll get double the next pull at least. I'm going to let it sit and maybe add some more when I do it. I'll post a temple ball if it works out. If not I have other stuff to wash. I may do a diary on that. Went back over and all plants seem happy despite the gusts of wind. Luckily I was able to get the tarp up. I'm taking a break before I die from exhaustion. I felt off the ladder earlier this morning..... 9/16 I watered the plants a little. The soil was dry to the touch but i noticed the container was still heavy so I lightly watered. With all this sun and it supposed to be 80 today I felt I needed to water. The wind is still horrific. I have my blueberry trellises pretty good. Others have wind breaks. I fell hard yesterday morning hurrying around. I was on an upside down bucket on one foot and it kicked put from under me. Legs flew in the air. Luckily I wasn't injured. At least that's something I've taken from martial arts that's benefitted me. Knowing how to fall. Anyway everything is progressing nicely in flower. I'm goi g to continue with beastie bloom but I'll switch over shortly to cha ching. I'm getting close. Also ran a batch of water hash with the buds of dead plants. I didn't think I'd get anything but I did. Now to properly dry it and see if it's any good. Still a heart break. Oh well. 9/17 I totally fucked everything up. I uploaded a shit ton of pictures to the wrong week. The app wasn't working. Hope I didn't fuck or too much. Fed everything today. The blueberry is in late flower. Some buds look REAL close to being done. My wife keeps talking to me so I can't finish this. I have to do things one at a time sometimes and this just isn't working here. Massive wind storms but no broken branches. Temps get down close to freezing at night. Low Temps are bringing out fall colors. I took a video of the blueberry. the other two won't be done for a little bit though. Oh well. I'll just bring them inside the garage at night. 9/18 I've been out multiple times to shake the buds today. It's not raining now but it did last night and today. Another day or two of rain and then some. I che ked some trichs and some buds are done. I'm just waiting for the rain to clear up and we get some sun. Wish I checked the trichs before this bout of rain. It's not raining now though and hadn't for a little while. Prime for thieves but I'm not realky worried. To much hassle for one plant and there's dogs. I may harvest in sections. I was going to do plant doctor today but it will have to he tomorrow. 9/19 It's been raining but today looks good. Treated with plant doctor. I can't say enough good things about that product. I got the trich scope out after a few friends said my plants look ready. Some buds are. That's how it goes. Buds don't all mature at once. I like a solid couch lock though. If the forecast is just going to he more rain then I'll do a selective harvest. It's about the same time the strain finished last year. Now I've got earwigs eating my buds from the bottom up. UPDATE: I found my old trich scope but couldn't find the right batteries anywhere. I wad able to buy a new one for ten bucks. I went back over having more time. After ACTUALLY checking the trichs they were mature. Obviously the whole plant can't be at the same stage but everything is nice and milky. Earwigs were starting to eat the bottom of buds and had stripped a couple lower branches. After seeing this and having a nice day where the flowers dried out and an upcoming rainy forecast I chose to harvest the majority of the blueberry plant. I left some small branches but I'm almost positive it will just turn into earwig food. Seems early to ke but looking back this was about the same time this strain was ready last year. Same problem with the ear wigs only I let them eat the while inner plant before I called it quits and took what was left after it was my finally my perfect stage. I was using a USB microscope and was being to picky. I think I made the right choice.
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@valiotoro
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Hello everyone week 5 of flower has passed for this Skywalker haze auto 💥 Mars hydro SP-6500 75% Same feeding schedule have a great day and wish you all happy growing 😎👨‍🌾🏻
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Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.
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@Gisbert
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Sie entwickelt sich toll noch 4-5 Wochen bis zur Ernte, Laut Züchter. Das Wetter ist mittlerweile unglaublich gut, Wenn ich in Urlaub fahre muss ich sehen wie ich den 12h Lichtrythmus aufrecht erhalte. Zur Bewässerung habe ich mit Blumat bestellt. Mitte der Woche sind die Trichome zwar schon schön entwickelt, aber von Bernstein sehe ich noch nichts...
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Welcome to the Royal Queen Seeds Cup 🏆. Hey everyone 😃. The lady becomes more beautiful week after week 😍. This week it was poured with 1.2 L so that the whole coco is watered and the Royal Queen Seeds Easy Boost Organic that is mixed in the coconut substrate can unfold 👍. The humidifier has been refilled so that the humidity remains constant at 65%. The tent was cleaned and the entire electronics as well as the entire setup checked. I am very curious to see how these beautiful genetics will develop in the coming week and until then I hope you enjoy the new update. Stay healthy and let it grow 🍀🍀🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/feminisierte-hanfsamen/220-pineapple-kush.html Type: Pineapple Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: Pineapple x O.G. Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Royal Queen Seeds Easy Boost Organic ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .
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This week went by quickly. They're doin their Pre-Flower stretch and getting big quickly!! I added my Pre-Flower mix to them this week. My Nutrient Pre-Flower Mix consists of H20, Coconut, Bananas, Pineapple, Sweet Potatoes, Kelp, Alfalfa Meal, All Organic Non-Pasturized Whole Milk, Epsom Salts, Black Strap Molasses, and L.A.B. or Lactic Acid Bacteria. First, I boiled the coconut, pineapple, sweet potatoes, the bananas, and left the skins on as well except the coconut of course! That I had to split in half and make sure to keep the water inside to add to the boil. After boiling everything I then let it cool and then added it to a blender to blend little by little. After blending I left separate and placed into the fridge. Then I took 1 Tbsp of Alfalfa Meal and 2 Tbsp of Kelp, 500mL of the milk, 2 Tbsp of Epsom Salts, and mixed them in a 750 mL bottle. Then I took 1L of the mix and added 2 Tbsp of L.A.B. and 2 Tbsp of Black Strap Molasses and then shook the bottle well! Then I took the 750mL bottle and the 1L bottle and fed that to the plants adding 250 mL of pH H2O to the plant as well to flush the ingredients all into the plant with the H20. I wanted to also note that I choose to slowly defoliate so that the plant doesn't go into shock and also fan leaves collect light in all spectrums so taking too many off at a time could hurt or slow the growth of your plant! The amount of light your plant takes in daily is called DLI or Daily Light Index. Overall, they're really growing and have a ton of us sites developing!
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@BiggSteph
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🖖🏾👀🖖🏾
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Salutations, fellow cultivators! It's time for our Week 3 Veg Report, and let me tell you, the Epsilon F1 is turning into a botanical masterpiece. This week has been all about finesse and guidance as we've introduced some gentle training techniques to keep this green goddess on the path to greatness. First things first, let's talk about the art of bending and guiding. Picture this: a ballet of leaves and stems, a choreography where we gently encourage our Epsilon F1 to embrace the contours of the pot. I've been bending and guiding her with the precision of a dance instructor, keeping her close to the soil as if whispering, "Roots, meet Earth." Why, you ask? Well, my friends, it's all about maximizing exposure to light and ensuring an even canopy. By keeping her low and wide, we're promoting more bud sites and creating a lush, green carpet of potential harvest. It's like sculpting a masterpiece with each bend and twist. Now, let's talk about the environment. Room temperatures and humidity remain the same as last week – a cozy haven for our growing beauty. Consistency is key, and our Epsilon F1 is thriving in this stable atmosphere. Happy plant, happy grower! As for the feast, we're sticking to the nutrient regimen that has brought us this far. The Aptus Holland super soil mix continues to work its magic. Micromix Soil, Substrate Buffer Powder, All-in-One Pellet – it's like a gourmet meal for plants, and our Epsilon F1 is dining like royalty. And let's not forget the star players – Mycor Mix, the microbial maestro, ensuring our plant has the best support crew in the root zone. These endomycorrhizae are like the backbone of our operation, fostering a symbiotic relationship that's pure botanical harmony. Our Epsilon F1 is not just growing; she's thriving, loving every minute of the training sessions and nutrient banquets. Shout-outs to Royal Queen Seeds for providing the genetic canvas for this masterpiece, and major props to Aptus Holland for crafting nutrients that turn our grow space into a botanical symphony. Stay tuned, dear readers, as we continue this journey of horticultural excellence. The Epsilon F1 is on track to be a green goddess of epic proportions. Happy growing, and may your gardens be evergreen! As always thank you all for stopping by and for supporting me on this journey, i am super passion about growing and fell blessed to have you all with me on this new journey
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@Chubbs
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Weekly update on these beautiful ladies. They're progressing nicely and definitely starting to get close. The stacking they've done is crazy on the main colas. All in all Happy Growing.
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Hello everybody I’ve really busy trying to by seed late been so many great deal but yes , let get in it the blueberry cupcake has been very vigorous and growth during veg. I have three phenos , and by far Finno number one has been out growing everybody it doesn’t have a smell right now. It’s really low but they’re growing really good. I pop four and I have three decent phenotypes. I apologize for keeping week too. Just been really busy with work and I will be back next week this week. I did not feed them. I water thin, which is water and I think I did a compost the PPM‘s right now are exactly at maybe 400 at the highest and at the end of the week I take off till about 200 so my soul can’t be no drenched in salt, but yeah everything‘s going good. The room temps has been a little hot where I live at. So temps have been up like maybe like 80 usually there at like 77 what else can I tell y’all about these beautiful Humboldt plants other than they’re just growing absolutely phenomenal so this is a strain that I would grow in to be honest, just off the first 20 days of veg. Really quick rower really quick grower.
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Here we grow! These are clones of Mandarin Cookies, rooted in peat plugs, under low light T5 Sunblaster 24w, inside a dome, keeping humidity levels high.