Week 7 of flower 🌸 Day 126: watered Day 127: Day 128: watered Day 129: Day 130: fed Day 131: Day 132: watered This week has gone without any issues; which is a nice change lol, RH is stead at 50 during the day and up to 55 at night. Debating wether to start 2 weeks flush now and ride it out or push these ladies a few more weeks 🤔 Colas Getting nice and fat tho, a sweet sweaty stink.

Just waiting on these to ripen. :) The taller one has a hint of fuel while shortie is all berry. I love this strain and I will grow it again!!!

AUGUST 24 to AUGUST 30, 2024 Sunrise 07:05, sunset 20:50 for total daylight of 13:45 hours. Specimen continues to push upwards, gaining approximately 13cm in height over the past week. Plant is taller than anticipated and planned for, which could present some difficulties as it's getting into the oscillating air circulation fan's wake. Was surprised to see the continued stretch, but there were two days of high heat that may have been the trigger, or, it may have been the result of defoliation and pruning, or it was simply the plant's final push, or a combination of all those factors. It appears to have crowned, or is close to being fully crowned, and as such I undertook a fairly heavy defoliation to improve airflow through the bottom of the plant, and strategically removed leaves in the upper canopy to improve light exposure. Fungus gnats did regain their hold, and so I decided to top dress with Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis (delivered via pulverized Mosquito Dunks) in an effort to kill larvae, treated with Soil Pest Defense (Neem Oil, Castile Soap and Yucca Extract) and replaced Bug Scan Yellow Sticky Traps at soil level. Effects were pretty immediate, but I will need to stay on top of this. Would like to cease use of Neem Oil in the soil, so considering acquiring some beneficial nematodes to combat the pest issue. Overall, specimen and its' "neighbours" in the greenhouse are doing well, and filling the room. When accounting for the bench and containers, tops of plants are over 152cm (5ft) from ground level. It is making management a little more challenging, and proving to be more difficult to find good angles to photograph (the space is pretty much filled up). The scent of citrus, skunk and spice emanating from the greenhouse is building, and at times quite strong. Still appears to me to be on-track for ripening the week of October 14, 2024. Day 120 - n/a Day 121 - Drip watered 5.0L of plain rainwater with pH of 6.7 Day 122 - n/a Day 123 - Defoliated specimens, focused on removing leaves from lower parts of the plant to improve airflow (lollipop), pruning hidden or non-producing branches, and strategically removing select upper fan leaves to improve light exposure and airflow. Day 124 - Top dressed with pulverized Mosquito Dunk (1/4 unit per specimen); 1.5L drip watered with plain rainwater in the morning; Hand watered 2.0L of Soil Pest Defense Drench in the afternoon; Hand watered 1.0L of plain rainwater about 30 minutes after soil drench; Replaced Bug Scan Yellow Sticky Traps (1 unit per specimen, cut in half and rested at soil surface on two sides; With defoliation from yesterday, room air flow seems adequate, after increasing speed of lower fans. Day 125 - n/a Day 126 - n/a Next week, planning to feed the rhizosphere with Compost Tea and continue efforts to control fungus gnat population.

What’s good everyone, this is the start of week 11 and the first week of flower. Yesterday I let the, sit in darkness for a whole day to jump start them and by the sight of it, they sure did jump a bit. MXOP is amazing she takes to what every you toss at her, she is hard to stress out. But after growing this cultivar a few times now I can say they don’t require much nitrogen as one would think they CRAVE calcium and possibly a bit of magnesium but from what I have seen they ALWAYS want more calcium weird might be the soil I have been using. This is the fun part, can’t wait to update you all next week FLOWER TIME BABY WOOOOOOO! Until next time growmies take it easy ✌️ 08/07/23

Week 11 This week the amnesias got fat while their friends stretched and created many branches with flowers. Amnesia 1 (Seedstockers) With LST 8 weeks of flowering (73 days) It has 55 centimeters 14L LED 25 cm LUX 59.000 Amnesia 2 (Seedstockers) Without LST 6 weeks of flowering (69 days) It has 60 centimeters 14L LED 20 cm LUX 70.000 Gorilla Cookies Auto (Fast Buds) 1 week of flowering (45 days) It has 43 centimeters 16L LED 56 cm LUX 55.000 This Week - Defoliation and LST - Godzilla Cookies (Herbies) 5 Week (35 days) It has 30 centimeters 15L LED 60 cm LUX 45.000 This Week - Defoliation and LST Gorilla Glue Auto (Herbies) 2 Week (12 days)

easy trim✂️ The buds are Absolutely perfect,exactly what i was looking for🤩 Green pheno : cookie,diesel & gelato🍪⛽️🍦 Purple pheno : flower,sweet & honey🌸🍯 After 7 days on the dry rack she was ready for the jar to start the curing process.😋

Continua a crescere e di piegarla non se ne parla,visto che non ho più spazio ...pessima scelta fare due ceppi in un box 60x60cm. Comunque cresce super forte e bene ! Ci sono parecchie piccole gemme alla stessa altezza mentre le 2 apicali primeggiano sulla chioma. Alla prossima settimana speriamo esploda con dei super fiori !

Let’s Go!! This week went real great ! We are at day 34 of flower an these ladies are all stacking up super nicely an looking super frosty , really loving the control ! We still got a ways to go for these amazing girls so let’s keep stacking an I hope you all enjoy an have an amazing productive weekend! Cheers to y’all keep them eyes peeled for next week update y’all 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨🤙🏻

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Top dressed for the last time. Fed some compost tea and now smooth sailing ⛵️

Starting to really fill out smell is 6/10 so far very sweet some pine as well

Día 36. Estamos en 6ta semana. Los esquejes se atrasaron debido a que han sido días muy fríos y no he logrado enraizarlos. Decidí poner el extractor de aire junto con la bomba de aire, así solamente se prende 15 minutos cada hora. Así estoy logrando temperaturas mayores a 24°C en el indoor y así voy a lograr el enraizado. La planta ya tiene un tamaño que ocupa casi todo el indoor. Pero lo importante es que la voy guiando y ya estoy proyectando como va a ir cada rama. El tamaño va a exceder lo que esperaba, pero aún así creo que si logro lo que tengo en mente, voy a sacar muy buenos resultados. Igual no me voy a arriesgar demasiado, así que si contando 10 días desde ahora, no logro que los esquejes enraicen, voy a pasar la madre a floración sola. Cómo pueden ver, las ramas están bastante gruesas, y el la ramificaciones van ganando su lugar cada una. Las raíces son demasiado grandes, aunque sé que voy a poder poner la planta en el sistema de arriba igual, aunque me voy a tener que ayudar de algo para meterlas. Es importante no utilizar las manos, ya que se pueden transmitir muchos hongos. Voy a seguir actualizando e ir viendo que pasa. Pero ya estamos en los últimos días de crecimiento, haya o no esquejes. Incluso puede que ya pase la planta al indoor de arriba para darle mayor libertad de crecimiento. Esto me va a servir para tlmar en cuenta en la próxima camada que se vendrá. La idea de esto es hacer las cosas rápido, y no en gran tamaño. Pero siendo que ya estoy en el baile, no me queda otra que bailar. Día 40 Los esquejes no estaban enraizando, así que decidí cambiarlos de lugar y los puse arriba de la luz, donde les da calor y luz tenue. Espero que ahora si agarren. Y hoy fue el gran día, pasé la planta madre al módulo de arriba. Pero lo voy a dejar una semana más creciendo. De esa forma veo si los esquejes llegan a agarrar a tiempo. Y además tuve un problema en el trasplante. Primero que la planta se hizo más grande que lo esperado, y la raíz también. Cuando la pasé, hubo contacto de la raiz con prácticamente todo lo que había cerca. Sumado a que se enredó en el oxigenador, así que quedó una pidra difusora en la raíz. Dado el alto riesgo de haberla contaminado con algún hongo, le puse una solución de agua con agua oxigenada, recirculando continuamente, para lavar las raices y de paso bajar el stress de teansplante. Mañana veremos cómo arranca el día. En el aprendizaje me llevo que en la madre, es mejor hacer un corte en el primer nudo, o dejar las ramas del segundo y quitar las del primero. Y así que queden sólo dos ramas, para luego dejar a los esquejes en el medio. Eso planeo hacer con la próxima variedad. Entre tanto ahora sólo me preocupa que la raíz no se haya contaminado en el traspaso. Ya en 8 días estaré pasando a floración si no hay esquejes. Si llegan a agarrar, habrá que dar unos días de crecimiento hasta que alcancen a la madre en altura. Pero ya está todo en definición. Ahora sólo queda esperar y seguir guiando a la planta. Ya tengo ganas de poner la próxima, pero falta bastante para eso. Tengo 10 semanas de flora, así que recién en 5 semanas voy a poner la nueva madre.

Cropped Thursday evening, 3/4 days before necessary for complete maturation. Better to lose 2 ounces of weed now than having the plant destroyed by the storm later on. Yeld is below the expectations. Wet weight after 1 day fro crop (buds cleared of leaves) 2.91 lbs (1320 grams). This is caused partially by my pheno (pheno #1 sativa-like, low yield and high THC) and by some mistakes I've done: 1- position in the garden (too close to the sisters) 2- I haven't considered the change in the sun's trajectory and inclination from August onwards. 3- too much LTS (but I was obliged to keep plants short and bushy) 4- underwater (this is my fault, I always tend to keep plants on the verge of thirst. I dug up the roots and the plant actually needed a lot more water). Now she's gone I'm more relaxed and concerned on Special Kush #1, the next week crop and Pineapple Kush the October harvest. Without Royal Gorilla the smell around the home is reduced by 70%. Dry trimming. All buds have been washed before drying and will be dryed very very slowly in a strictly controlled environment. Stay tuned for the next week or 10 days , a generous crop is comin'.... with Special Kush #1. See you in a couple of weeks for harvest results and smoke report. Happy growing folks

After Week 1 in the eazyplug, i've transplanted the Permanent Marker into a bigger Pot

Again— my fault on this one— coo po ups and wold have been better if I would have ran individual dwc per auto— screwed them up in the veg/flower transition- regardless the terps are insane

Esta semana, nuestras plantas empiezan a mostrar las primeras flores. Ya tenemos la sala con las cuatro luminarias funcionando al 75% de su potencia y las he separado un poco más, ya que veo que con led, el espacio internodal es muy reducido. Añadimos a la mezcla de fertilizantes CALMAG de BioBizz, que aportará un extra de calcio y magnesio. Regamos cada tres días aproximadamente, una vez con fertilizantes y otra vez con agua. Comenzamos a reducir la humedad relativa en la sala y desconectamos la calefacción en fase nocturna, para que empiecen a pasar un poco de frío.

En la 4ta semana aumentamos la dosis del fertilizante para crecimiento, regulamos su p.h en 6.0 e hicimos una poda apical en el 4to nodo de cada una de las plantas.