Another week down. As some of you will see, from the three purple kush autos one defiantly has the characteristics of a “purple kush plant” it is very small with odd shaped buds and almost purpley/black. The other two are monsters with no purple traits. I did loose a plant at the start that was also stunted, which likely would have produced another “purple budded” plant. Anyway it has been hotter than hell here, and they pretty much survived a hurricane and tornado, so I think these girls will finish out the summer just nice. I gave them a feed of some cal mag and some fox farms tiger bloom. Other than that they be chillin. Enjoy the weather! Cheers.

The ladies are looking nice very healthy the one that broke came back and sprouted like crazy took 3 cuts off since I didn't want those to reach first time who knows what will happen free 3 cuts

Really loved this plant and how it grew other then the fox tails, Unfortunately I had to move this weekend and just couldn’t continue growing her and moving at the same time. She still had a good 1-2 weeks left but what is there looks really good will update when she finishes drying.

Day 12, more and more flowers appearing everyday. Still looking healthy, but might have made her too big for her container. She’s drinking 3 gallons or more a day at this point.

flush!!!

Growing this purple was easy Going most of the way, Only drawback was she grew so big it was hard anchoring her down in the basket from the tilts, but once she was down she put on a show. Her heavy Buds were thick, hard oozing resin was potent and sticky I quickly scooped up some falling Trichomes from beneath my tray Loaded my chamber 220c and 8hrs later I finished my day.Probably could have taken half that time had i not loaded that first bowl then the next....... 😎 Just a tad over 12 Oz on my quest to hit 1 pound per plant. Some exciting Donated Seeds Coming My way. Stay Tuned Find out who they are and What I'm growing next, Going to be some exciting shit. Thanks for following😍

Que pasa familia, vamos con la tercera semana de vida de estas Tropicana Cookies Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Vamos al lío , las 3 plantas se colocaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 21/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 60%. Ir van creciendo y no llevan ni mal ritmo ni mal como, veremos como avanzan las próximas semanas. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Topping appears to be working well. Began some LST via tie down to encourage growth to other branches.

Day 9 I had no choice but to defoliate, the canopy was getting way to dense and humidity was hard to control even with my 30 pin dehumidifier. Hopefully will not affect to much. Probably I will do another defoliation on day 21. TDS stays at 550PPM this week and CO2 at 1200PPM.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

This Spring I was asking @James from RQS, wich recommendations he can give for Good Outdoor Performer in my Country. ( Northern Europe) Because most of the Year i have to Harvest earlier due bad Weatherconditions. Because in 3rd .of September, weather changes, and big Rain begins He recommended me Honey Cream and Speedy Chile So I started Grows with this Strains And its a Superstrain!! for my Conditions, That means they get ready in Time, before everything gets worse Great growing Strain, very big and stable Branches, .........When they started Flowering they go in Overdrive The Result is a wonderful strong Plant, filled on and on with Buds Today we harvested The Lady in the 75l Growpot On Sunday the Lady into the ground, gets Harvested We made some Photoshooting and Videos to show her Beauty, but its nearly impossible To catch her in Pictures but we tried Luckyly ii nvented in a wet trimming machine, and the Lady was cut down in short Time, and gave us a good Number ( i have no cluehow much,,,Iam guessing for 300 g) Sunday October 4th Second Honey Cream was Harvested, She had agood shot Of Purple due Cold nights. She was so fresh , when I took of the Bif Leaves, they made asmacking Sound Plant Number 2 was sitting in The Ground, I started fertilising her late( 2 weeks before Harvest), but not tooo Late She nearly catched up , in Budbuiding her Sister. So Thank you for those Gentics... its for me a "must to grow again Plant" Iam going to write more on Sunday, about buds smell and resinousness

Sie werden immer schöner Rainbow sherbert ist leider von uns gegangen

3/26/24 3 gal pots amended with 8 Tablespoons of Gaias 444. The last time I was growing was about 3 years ago and I had always wanted to try Gaia green but it wasn’t available in the US. So I’m excited about getting to try something, previously unobtainable. 3/31/24 end of march and end of week and one veg. They haven’t grown too much. I switched them to their final grow space in my garage, from the warm bathroom in my house so I think they are getting used to the environment finally. Finally getting the environment dialed in for them. The garage on its own is a stable 50-60*F and RH 50-60%. I thought that would be easy to control with minimal swings. The light didn’t bring the temp up as high as I thought. Things are dialed in now and they should start taking off.

So the only thing I wish couldve been different about this grow is that I wish she didnt stutter/stall with the flowering in the begining. She shot out pistils but stalled for like 2 weeks or so. So if she wouldve been flowering for the full time, I thibk I couldve gotten better product(I'm still impressed) but I feel like I couldve done something better with her. 7/26 Day 2 of drying. Everything's still wet. The room is 75 °F with 50%humidity 7/27 day 3 of drying. Everything felt crispy and dense. Humidity was 40% and temp was 75F 7/29 weighed and put into jars with stems the weight was 51.2 grams and without stems 45.5 grams.

Day 79: 7th week of flowering. Things remain the same 600W lamp, 12/12, humidity like 50 percent, fertilization with Biobizz family on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, Bat Guano on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday. Water intake 400 ml per plant per day I start flushing the Zkittlez she is almost ready. Rest of them need more weeks to be done. Day 81: I removed unwanted fan leaves. I will not water them for 2 days on Saturday and Sunday to shock them a bit. Day 84: So today (Saturday) and tomorrow (Sunday) No water for 24K Gold, Blue Sherbet S1, and Fruit Tree. Zkittlez in flush so she will be harvested soon I won't give her water the last 3 days.

Tag 79: Ab heute gebe ich nur noch ungedüngtes Wasser mit eingestellten Ph wert.

A selection of a few plants but you can tell the f1 hybrids are just amazing for growth got loads of bud site hopeing for fat buds now still a few weeks to