semana del 14 al 21 de Marzo 2026, lamentablemente tuvo un estres por contaminación lumínica debido al deshumidificador dentro del tent y se hizo hermafrodita sacando bastante semilla. Sad

We are at day 21 on this Cali snow and she is doing well. Takes training great and she hit a nice growth spurt at the beginning of the week. The girls are getting crowded but the setup is running like a well oiled machine. I will have to get them spread further apart somehow and they will be going under the QB lights soon. If I can keep the momentum going as smooth as it has been we might just get some late summer snow! Happy growing everyone.

Hello everyone 😎 Day 30 she grew fast with a great structure and with a beautiful green colour on the leaves. She is responding superbly to topping and Ist aswell growing like nothing has been done to her! Have a great day 👨‍🌾🏻

She's looking very healthy and strong so far, although she had to handle a little fungus gnats infestation which has been completely errdadicated thanks to the treatment with nematodes this lady is starting to get into the shape I want for her. Let's see what we can do!

I received the clones from An out of province breeder. It reached me after three days of driving on the road with no light. Their future was not certain. I didn’t think I would need that many fans for the clones because they are so tiny, I figured they didn’t need that much maintenance. I was 100% wrong when I’m working with this many plants. I ended up getting mild mildew on top of the soil on the first week because there was barely any air circulation. At this point I didn’t have any Ventilation put up yet. And one fan on the floor. I ended up installing three fans in one room. No issues

Hope you are well. Thanks for taking the time. Little defoliation to focus growth.

Die Umstellung auf 12/12 ist passiert, jetzt beginnt der Stretch und dann die Blüte. Die nächsten zwei Wochen wird nichts geschnitten, nur die höchsten Tops werden auf eine höhe gebracht. Ich bin sehr zufrieden mit dem aktuellen Stand! :)

With the last heat wave, I had an answer to one of my questions, clearly my chiller is not doing the trick. I have water temperatures that went up to 27°, which is way too much, the plants deprived of oxygen, started to declare several deficiencies due to an assimilation slowed by the lack of oxygen. It is then that a nasty fungus came to say bijour, it is me MR pythium! It was necessary to act, at the risk of having to restart the culture. So I applied hydrogen peroxide and ROOT ROT X, and both products are doing harm to this nasty pythium, things are now back to normal. On the other hand, the plants had a decreased growth for 10 to 15 days, so I'm going to extend my growth for 10 to 20 days, that is to say 1 or 2 soups, I'll choose according to the root development of the plants. Before going to flowering, I have to catch up this delay in order to make a nice crop.

Tag 63 Blüte: Die Trichome sind immer noch zu viele Klar und brauchen noch einige Tage. Geruch wird immer intensiver. In 4-5 Tagen fallen die Temperaturen auf 16-18 das wäre perfekt wenn ich da ernten könnte und die Trocknung so verlägert wird. Momentan sind wir bei 28 also viel zu warm ohne Klimaanlage. Der nächste Report wird dann der Tag der Erte wann auch immer. Ich habe nach den vielen Kommentaren euch eine volle Runde Budporn Fotografiert. Ich hoffe es gefällt euch.

First I want to thank everyone who participated in last week's call for help especially GrowingGrannie and gottagrowsometime. I made some changes starting with the distance of the LED, I did a defoliation reduced the Bio-Grow kept the Top Max and the Bio-Bloom added Calmag, Pandora powder mycoterra. BAC Frooting Power and ashes. The downside I have is the humidity which stays at 70% even with the dehumidifier. 0,2 Bio-Grow 0,4 Top Max 0,4 Bio-Bloom 1,4 Calmag 1.5 gr Pandora Powder MYCOTERRA 3 gr de BAC Frooting Power 5 Tablespoons of ash See you next week

Day 71. Girls went through two plain waterings, planing to give tomorrow first feed without BioGrow. Will try to ramp everything and achieve 800 ppm. No space, girls are showing signs of few top bleach and foxtailing starting ... All Northern Lights are like two weeks behind ... One Green Crack is rocking my soul with sizes of buds - FATASS buds ;))) Diesels are looking fantastically too !!! Amazing house ! Day 74. Chopped FB LSD 25, so got a bit more space, but those side plants missed space a lot !!! Some big branches on Northern Lights died off without proper light and space , so now they should be happier ... Day 75. Girls loved more space and I think two first Alaskan Diesel will fall in 10-14 days. Cut food for them now ! All others are pushing and looking very promising ! Happy Growing !!!

We have a very full tent! Taz’s jungle 😂🤣. Check out the purple purple photos from day 20!!! Everyone looks absolutely beautiful I’m hoping that the white critical will be ready in 4-5 weeks. She’s going to have some fat colas!

really big buds. love it. my fav

Buds keep poping up every where. Plants still streaching a bit. Very healthy tangies, no over or under feeding signals. High temperatures theses days, increased ventilation and i have the closet open 24/7. Day 43: 700ml water + 2ml/l atazyme + 2ml/l top candy Day 45: 800ml water + 3ml/l biogrow + 2ml/l biobloom TM2 is in 11 liters pot, TM3 in 7 liters pot, so TM3 always get less watering than coment (600ml for day 52) Day 47: 800ml + 1 ml/l calmag Day 49: 800 ml + 2ml/l atazyme + 2ml/l topcandy Minor defoliation to open the canopy

Unusual late year warm weather has put a hurting on my grow. I intentionally did RDWC in winter to utilize cool temps for my res and not need a chiller, after having random 78 degree days, I’ve ordered a chiller. The temps are a death sentence in hydro, I was adding ice to the res to battle it, won’t happen again after this chiller is put in. Definitely hurt the Apex plant, which has been a pain the entire grow.. it all started when Apex was a seedling, with its tap root growing up instead of down. She looks sad, If she dies or falls too far behind, I’ll train the other three around to fill in the space. No visible signs of root rot but I’m suspicious after those temps, have treated with Orca, SLF-100, and Hydroguard. Worst case scenario, I’ll dump the system and sanitize as best I can.

Que hay familia, vamos con la cuarta semana de floración de estas Apple Fritter de Zamnesia. La temperatura está entre los 21/24 grados, la humedad está entorno al 55%, y el ph lo mantengo ahora al principio en 6.2, el foco por supuesto está enchufado 12 horas , tener tienen que crecer fuertes. Y aparte añadimos nutrientes de Agrobeta, que no puede faltar semejante gama. Todo correcto hasta ahora, ya cara a la floración veremos cómo avanzan las próximas semanas. Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Decima settimana di veg sul balcone..inizia a riprendersi anche le foglie inizia ad uscire bene,(normali)...💪👍

✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. ✂️ Defoliation Time’s. 🌷Started flower stage.