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Strain: Fast Buds – Mendo Frost Auto (5 Plants) Grow Type: Indoor Pot Size: 3–5 Gallon Pots Medium: Peat Moss & Perlite Nutrient Line: Athena Week 10 Update These Mendo Frost girls have absolutely blown me away 🤩🔥. They have exceeded my expectations in so many ways, and I'm genuinely impressed with how they're finishing up. I was able to get some amazing photos of two of the plants before disaster struck... my son decided my camera belonged on the floor 😅📸. After that I had to switch over to my phone to finish taking the rest of the photos, but at least I managed to capture the stars of the show beforehand! Those same two plants are just about ready and will be getting the chop very soon, while the remaining three still need about another two weeks to finish ripening. I'm absolutely in love with Mendo Frost. The terpene profile is incredible, the buds have an amazing structure, and everything about this strain just screams champion. It's one of those strains that keeps impressing you more every week. I also have to give credit where it's due Athena PK has done an outstanding job. This was my first proper run using it, and the difference in how these buds have bulked up has definitely made me a believer. It'll absolutely become part of my feeding program going forward. I'm really excited to see how the last few plants finish over the next couple of weeks. If they're anything like the first two, this is going to be one unforgettable harvest 🌿🏆🔥 Feeding Volume: 1750ml per plant Athena Bloom: 45ml/gal Athena Core: 25ml/gal Athena PK: Low dosage pH: 6.2 PPM: ~900–1000 ppm Frequency: As needed Indoor Climate Conditions (Late Flower) 🌡️ Temperature: 20–25°C 💧 Humidity: 45–50% 📈 VPD: 1.3–1.5 kPa And don’t forget to use my discount code ISLANDT for 15% off your next order at Fast Buds 🌿🔥
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last week vega, cut the lower steams into clones, do defloration and go to bloom)
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Nirvana is interpreted as awakening from the illusion of separation and the limitations of time and space, effectively "seeing" the underlying code of existence. In Buddhism, Nirvana is described as the "unconditioned" (asankhata), a reality beyond dependent origination (cause and effect). This aligns with the concept of a fundamental, timeless "code" that exists before material manifestation. Some interpretations equate the stillness of Nirvana with the quantum vacuum, a state of "zero energy" which, however, holds unlimited potential for manifestation. In quantum mechanics, a quantum system remains a "wave" of possibilities until observed. The "on-demand" aspect is often linked to the ability of a highly developed, enlightened consciousness (a "pure observer") to collapse this wave into a desired state, interacting directly with the underlying quantum reality. This view implies that by breaking free from the ego and mental conditioning, one gains mastery over the energetic, or vibrational, foundation of reality. The feeling of oneness in nirvana is explained through [quantum entanglement], suggesting all things are connected, and therefore, an enlightened mind can interact with any point in the universe. Traditionalists might argue that Nirvana is not about gaining control or having the power to "manifest on demand" (which can be a function of ego), but rather the total cessation of craving and the surrender of the ego, bringing an end to the desire to control reality. The spiritual path is an evolution from being controlled by the "code" (samsara/suffering) to understanding the code and, eventually, becoming the author of one's own. With the awareness of how "code" functions, one takes full responsibility for their life, making conscious choices rather than reacting impulsively. Thoughts, words, and actions are purposefully aligned with higher values (truth, love, purpose), effectively rewriting one's destiny. Humidity of the air dictates the moisture in the medium, which dictates the rate of pull from the terracotta stakes, 16 in total. Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC): An ecological concept referring to the pathway of water moving from the soil, through the plant, and into the atmosphere. Terracotta (unglazed, low-fired clay) is highly porous, acting as a breathable, permeable membrane that transports water based on the moisture gradient between the potting medium (soil) and the surrounding air. White terracotta and brown terracotta often have different pore sizes and overall porosity, primarily driven by differences in clay composition, impurities, and firing temperatures. While both are considered porous, brown terracotta often has higher iron content and impurities that behave as fluxes, affecting how the pores form during firing, while white terracotta is generally derived from more refined clays, with smaller pores making it more suited to pure water. This mechanism is driven by capillary action and evaporation. When the surrounding soil is dry, the terracotta acts as a wick, pulling water out of the pot and into the soil. If the soil is very saturated, the terracotta absorbs water from the soil and allows it to evaporate from its outer surface, increasing the drying rate of the soil. Terracotta tends to keep the potting mix at an optimal saturation point, wicking up more water when the outside surface evaporates water into the air. The greater the difference in moisture between the soil and the outside air, the faster the water transfers through the ceramic. In low humidity and hot weather, the evaporation rate from the terracotta surface is high, creating a rapid drying effect. Newer terracotta pots often have a denser, lighter-toned structure that is less porous than traditional, red-orange terracotta, slowing down the moisture transfer rate. Over time, dissolved salts from fertilizer or tap water build up and block the pores, reducing the permeability of the clay. Water is all that is used or needed, thanks to the biochar and the massive storage bank of nutrients. Just waiting until something creeps up. Clay pot irrigation (Ollas), an ancient farming practice, utilizes this property by burying unglazed jars in the soil, allowing water to slowly seep into the surrounding soil only when the soil dries out.
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One of the shorter phenos but I got a feeling she's going to be a bush!
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All 4 seeds popped, 2 were wicked, but straightened out within the first week. Had them in coco pucks and a dome, with saturated concrete perlite
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@Matrix458
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Watered 3 times with Flawless Finish with 20% run off. After that, flushed everything out with plain water and then watered plain water a few more times with no run off (not all at once😀).. Just waiting on the pot to dry out completely 👌🙌
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@MaxMo8
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Hello my friends . The last week before harvest, I gave her chlorinated water. And sorry for not leaving weekly notes due to lack of time, thank you all for my support. I wish you happy days😘🙏👌🙋‍♂️
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Ultima semana de nuestras northern light xL y aunque no destaquen de las demás por su olor, sacaron un gran tamaño nuestras flores. Bastante productoras, ya veremos en peso que nos dan . Son algo más complicadas de cultivar que las otras 2 del mismo proyecto. Pero no es una dificultad extrema, solo que hay que aguantarlas un poco más y tener cuidado con las carencias ya que chupa bastante comida. No pinta mal esta cepa veremos los resultados las siguientes semanas. Buen cultivo nada de plagas y no tuvimos que tutores todas, solo algunas 😂 Nos vemos la próxima familia.
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Aquí dejo imágenes de la segunda semana! He estado un poco liado y se me ha pasado! Mañana actualizaré también la 3ª semana que ya mañana arrancamos la 4ª y no van nada mal!! La bolsa de CO2 THE EXHALE está cumpliendo y en si todos los parámetros del cultivo hasta el momento se están cumpliendo, ya os iré contando!!
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@valiotoro
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Hello everyone 😎 Week 7 of flower for the Amnesia HazZzzze🤯 All the tops buds are ready✂️ 3 different pheno🤩 Purple : the smell is citrusy & earthy very strong!🍋 Green : tropical 🤤 it reminds me the Pablo Escobar ! Max 2 more weeks & finito ✔️
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@420keef
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All help is welcome first time grower :)
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@Papablob
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11/04 De retour sur le green. Elle a eu un peu soif. Mais elle murie bien 😊👍🤤 12/04 J'ai mesurer quelques sucettes. La plus longue fait dans les 32cm les autres tournent entre 20 et 25cm. 😊😋 J'en avais rêvé d'une comme ca..😍🤩 16/04 Elle termine sa semaine en beauté.👍😁
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@Bigbuds1
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Starting my second run with a frost banger auto from fastbuds420
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10/16: A lot of stretching happening this week. I had to move the light up 3 times and even then the main cola of #1 grew into the light and got a little heat burn on the leaves. They are starting to build flowers. This will be a fun week as i should start seeing some purple in the flowers and leaves if I have one of the phenos that has the really deep purple. I did successfully clone all 4 plants, but ended ip with a powdery mildew issue in the propagator and so i may just throw the clones out as all of their rock wool cubes have some on it and i am not sure how to clear it up before putting them in soil. Will probably post a question about that. These ladies had a defoliation a week ago and clearly already need another. I over vegged for sure. I am not sure i am going to defoliate this week, and will probably just let them grow unbothered. Im hoping yo only have to defol one more time and so hoping to wait until they have finished their transition.
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📆 Semana 6 La fase de engorde alcanza su máximo ritmo. Los cogollos continúan aumentando de tamaño y densidad, los cálices terminan de compactarse y la producción de resina cubre gran parte de las flores y las hojas cercanas. Los primeros pistilos comienzan a oscurecerse, mientras el aroma gana intensidad y complejidad. Bloom Booster continúa trabajando a pleno rendimiento para impulsar el desarrollo floral. La planta mantiene un elevado consumo de agua y nutrientes, aunque conviene vigilar la respuesta al abonado para evitar excesos y conservar un follaje sano hasta el final de la floración. ⚡ EC: 1.8 – 1.9 💧 pH: 6.2 – 6.5 🌡️ Agua: 21°C 🌫️ Humedad: 50–55% 💡 Intensidad: 1000–1100 PPFD 🔥 Nota de cultivo: Semana clave para maximizar el volumen y la densidad de los cogollos. Un clima estable, buena ventilación y una nutrición equilibrada favorecerán una cosecha de máxima calidad. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪
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Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.
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D57. All good in the tent. Both plants going well. There's a video for the banana blaze for you this week!
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Week 8 of flower is in the books and this show is quickly coming to an end. I said last week we had about 7-10 days and I was spot on at the 10 day mark. I was only wrong about the order. The cheese is ready to chop before the rest and the gorilla cookies, cherry Bomb and lemon haze will follow in due course. The cheese is a beast and it’ll take a little time to get it all run through the bowl trimmer. At least the big one goes first. Her tallest colas have foxtailed like mar, despite the late supercrop. You can tell where the sweet spot for the light is at about 10” distance from the canopy. Any closer than that and the tails begin to show prominently. It’s a good example of just how close you can get to these fixtures with a little bit of prior experience. It’s been noted for the next run😎👍😎. The res. is on an h2o2 only flush for the remainder until the rest are ready to come down. Not a moment too soon either - the pollen chucking project has stalled out waiting for these girls to finish and now that we’ll have a little extra room, we can start running our cuts in the aerocloner🤟. Not long at all now folks. Thanks for tagging along through all this. Learned a bunch about this system and we’re back to hardware mode to make some serious improvements for the next run🤙😎. I love hardware mode😉. Background/Repetitive Nonsense The strain line up on this grow is look’n quite saucy 😈. We’ve got 2 FB strains this time around - Gorilla Cookies (seems we always have some GSC cross in the works). Mainly because the colours look stellar and remind me of a sugar breathe we did last year that was 🔥. The other FB is their original Cheese strain... because we already smoked all our cheese... and we really like our cheese...😉. Emerald triangle was kind enough to include a freebie of Lemon Haze. Wasn’t really big on the list but we haven’t done a haze strain to write home about yet so worth a go👍. The last is a Cherry auto from Bomb seeds that we’ve been trying to get to for months. Let’s just hope that she’s not a dud like the last bean. The new digs for this run are courtesy MarsHydro👊. Their 2x4 single grow tent, paired with a shiny new 240w QB courtesy ViparSpectra. These folks were kind enough to discuss a collaboration and as a result, here we are to test out the gear with an inaugural run of autos. Each week, we’ll try to expand on some of the benefits of each, as well as any limiting factors or considerations that need attention when pondering purchase. Already I can say that both are high quality products in terms of overall craftsmanship. MarsHydro 2x4 Grow Tent: Excellent construction in terms of durability. Reinforced stitching on the zippers and corners ensures zero tearing. Conveniently placed screen vents and intake/exhaust ports. The ceiling exhaust port only exists on the right side. Perfect for me but not great if you’re running exhaust from the top on the left side (left side wall port makes up for this however). The aluminum frame is rigid enough to support the weight of the lights and accessories. Once you have some weight in the tent, she’s go’n nowhere and you can assemble and break it down in record time if moving or stashing the grow op. Only limiting factors I’ve noticed is that temp. Control will be an issue for a tent. It just doesn’t have the same insulating ability as a wood cabinet or other permanent enclosed space. No worries, this is offset by a small desktop heater and keeps the environment exactly where desired. The other issue was a production problem - the ceiling vent was accidentally stitched into the corner seams on the assembly line. Again, no real issue - just pulled it out with no damage or fraying to the tent or port👍. Website link here: https://www.mars-hydro.com/grow-tent/buy-mars-hydro-grow-tent-24x48x70-2-x-4-cabinet-closet-grow-box-upgraded-diamond-1680d-mylar-for-sale ViparSpectra 240w Quantum Board: This thing is sleek and slick in terms of design. Closest comparable to it that I’ve seen would be spiderfarmers line of qbs. They feature the same top-o-the-line components and roughly similar spectrums. Where VS takes the advantage is in the convenience of the dimmer nob which is easily accessible and works great at 50% with no strobing👍. The heat sink is also larger which contributes to lower temps. That’s not a good thing in my case but beneficial for most folks. I can already say that this will be a great fixture through all stages of growth. Where I know this light will excel will be in the veg. Stage for sure. Dimming function gives seedlings a much better chance of success with the ability to use lower lighting levels early on and the coverage area on a 240w is great. The average grower will find this panel suitable and fitting to their needs in a 2x4 grow space although I’d suggest 2 units if going any larger than that. The total output in this space equates to about 30w/sq.ft. Which is a decent amount of coverage based on power vs. Growprint. Ideal for veg. Certainly but, in flower - I tend to run closer to 50-60w/sq.ft to achieve higher yields. Again, similar fixtures have performed admirably in the past and while this wouldn’t be considered an “entry-level” fixture, I’d recommend that any grower new to the game not skimp on lighting and start with one of these. The price points are a great value for quality LED tech. These days, so there’s little reason to even consider a lesser fixture👍. I have no detail on limiting factors for this light as yet but have heard that stock branded fixtures don’t necessarily incorporate enough red diodes. I’ve seen no issue myself but confess - I’m no lighting guru. Website link: https://www.viparspectra.com/collections/xs-series/products/xs-series-xs2000 ***8% discount when using code: “ItBudWhisper”*** Happy to have you along for the ride if you made it this far through my opening rant!!😎🤟😎🤟😎
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@Randyb4
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Day 42 first day of the week I turned the Growers Choice ROI-720 up to 30% its using 216w at 240v. Day 44 pictures were after some simple hand bending lst. This week we've seen alot of growth in all the plants. They need water about ever 4 days and between all 4 they take a gallon and a half untill the get a little run off out of the bottom. Roots are starting to come out of the bottom of the pots. Day 44 I noticed some spots on plant bs leaf I think it was from a nat or something I saw in the tent. And same day plant d has very slight yellowing on the tips of the newest growth. Think it's a deficiency of some sort, I'll look into it. Day 45 Transplanted into 5 gallon fabric pots with fox farms ocean forest soil. Didn't water today because the root balls where still pretty moist. Raised light to maintain 24" about the canopy. Day 46 Watered all 4 plants took about 4.25g of water. PH 6.3 @ 73° F. Day 47 Think I shouldn't have watered yesterday plants A, B, and D are drooping. Plant B has some light brown/yellow spots on the middle growth and very slight yellowing on the tips of the newer growth. Plant D has different spots dark red/brown almost burnt orange on middle growth and yellowing on the tips of the leaves. Weird how plant C just doesn't care what I do to it it just keeps getting bushier and wider leaves, never yellowing or drooping. Day 48 None of the plants were dropping the evening, and the spots and yellowing havnt gotten any worse. They grew alot since I measured yesterday.
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11 day dry mix of jar cure / Grove bag cure
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Moin, Die 5. Blütewoche ist fast vorbei und die Hitze ist kaum noch zu kompensieren. Trotzdem zeigt die White Sweet Candy OG wie stabil sie ist, die Blütenbildung geht in beirrt weiter. War der Geruch letzte Woche noch wenig süß und größtenteils etwas piney eher nach eingelegten Gurken riechen, was mich stark an eine White Widow erinnerte, die ich Anfang letzten Jahres gegrowt habe, ist er mittlerweile von einer merklichen süßen Note begleitet. Insgesamt würde ich es als Mischung aus einer süß-würzigen Fementation. Wir befinden uns aber auch erst Mitte der Blüte und da wird noch deutlich mehr an Komplexität dazu kommen, da bin ich mich sicher. Das einzige was diese Woche an wirklich Arbeit angefallen ist, war der Tausch der Tropfer da einer von den 4 verstopft war für Ersatz war schon gesorgt und solange wurde die White Sweet Candy OG 1x täglich zusätzlich per Hand gegossen sodass genug Drain in die Wanne unter dem Drainmaster läuft. Dieser Strain hat wirklich das Potenzial einer meiner liebsten Sorten zu werden. Hey, The fifth week of flowering is almost over, and the heat is becoming almost unbearable. Still, the White Sweet Candy OG is proving just how stable it is and flowering continues unabated. While last week the scent was still only slightly sweet and mostly a bit piney, smelling more like pickled cucumbers which strongly reminded me of a White Widow I grew early last year. It’s now accompanied by a noticeable sweet note. Overall, I’d describe it as a blend of sweet and spicy notes. But we’re only halfway through flowering, and I’m sure there will be significantly more complexity to come. The only real work I had to do this week was replacing the drippers, since one of the four was clogged. I already had a replacement on hand, and in the meantime, I watered the White Sweet Candy OG by hand once a day to ensure enough water drained into the tray beneath the Drainmaster. I love this strain so far!