Week 13👍🤙👍🌱 And it's Chop time. I made some bubble hash from the wet trim. First time and did not expect anything yet is was a success. Got a few drops. Will do one more bubble hash cycle with the dry trip. Overall the contest was nice. Still waiting on all the details. Jon Dabs Check them out here: https://jondabs.com @jondabs Instagram The Sponsors Check them out here: Dutch Passion https://dutch-passion.com/en/ Hydroponic.co.za https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponic/harvesting-and-growing-accessories/ Bud Juice https://www.gohydro.co.za The Best Grow https://thebestgrow.co.za Dynomyco https://www.dynomyco.com Nuclear Roots https://www.nuclearroots.co.za Photronic https://shop.photronic.net Special Thanks to Hydroponic.co.za. I buy all my products from them. Best service. Daily updates coming...

So, my dumb ass decided to switch from 50% light to 100% over night and she didn't like that at all. Like, zero. Next morning she looked saggy and droopy, like the granny section over at phub. Dialed the light back to 50%, and cranked the RH a bit up to help her recover. She did. And because somehow I don't like her to be looking healthy for too long I once again tied her down. I think she spreads out 40cm n every direction at the moment, we'll see how long this can go on. I labeled last week as "Flower" because she had some pistils on the top sites but the number of pistils did not increase significantly, but I think it's fair to say she is in flower. Bumped up the EC to 1750, pH still at 6.0 Edit1: I switched the lights up to 100% gradually, I'm at 210W in total in the tent. Because I'm on vacation in three weeks I decided to try out if the plant can handle the full container with an airstone and -pump. Well, she does. In fact she loves it. The things grows like literal weed. Really fun and a joy too look in the tent.EC at 1900, pH 5.8-5.9 Edit2: The switch from Kratky to DWC worked really well. She has absolutely no isssues despite standing in water even higher than I started her (about 0.8cm, 1l equals 1,6cm in height difference in this container and I poured in 6.5l instead of 6l). I think I will try this method again with the next plant (put a seed in an eazyplug yesterday), start with Kratky and as soon as she is flowering or used up the water she will get the hose. Airhose that is.

Pulled one already. Waiting for this one to finish. Another 2 weeks max I reckon.

the girl doesn't seem like she likes the suitcase :D blurry picture, it looks more and more beautiful to my eyes every day :).

the girl doesn't seem like she likes the suitcase :D blurry picture, it looks more and more beautiful to my eyes every day :).

The girls are doing well, the smell is becoming stronger and sweeter

The VPD range for this week is set to 1.0 to 1.2 kPa Day 22 / 22.04. Here we are at the start of week 4 of veg. The plants are all doing great, just the Super Lemon Haze is showing some signs of Ph fluctuation, which I cannot explain. Now everything is smooth sailing as nearly all of the work has been taken off my hands by my mycodo system and the autopots. The autopot reservoir has about 10l of 1.1 mS/cm EC solution left in it, for the next batch I will bump up the EC to about 1.7 mS/cm. Day 23 / 23.04. Well, turns out the Super Lemon Haze tried to tell me something important. Today I noticed, that my cheapo pH pen was off by about 1.5 pH, which means my reservoir was way too basic for the plants. I hope, that I have corrected the pH and that this little mishap didn't affect the plants too much, because right now, growth is really popping off. Day 25 / 25.04. I started to do some LST to the plants and I also removed the huge top leaves of the Fullgas because I was worried about airflow. Day 27 / 27.04. Today I had quite a big mishap. I was in a hurry and tried to adjust the LST of the plants and accidentally broke off one of the top branches of the FullGas. Shit happens I guess

During 1st week I might put the pot a bit to hight to the lamp. Clay pot got heated and caused some burns to the leafs. Now that it started to smell a bit I turned on the exhost with carbon filter and lowered the pot down. Passive wind intake through the lower level and exhost throw the top level makes a nice draft inside. I am using a small pot to try to keep the plant small and inside the bucket. I do have a tric ready to extend bucket hight by a 20 cm, but still previous plant in a bigger pot overgrew it and now finishing flowering at the balcony. This is my first mimosa and second grow in this bucket. Not going to apply hst, at least not at start, maybe at the later if I will see it's going to grow to high.

I post dry weight next

🌱 Week 3, Day 7 Update: Buds Are Blooming! 🌿 Hey Grow Fam, We're cruising through Week 3, and my girl is really coming on—buds are starting to form, and it's a sight to behold! The girl is growing so fast now, drinking 4.5L a day. She could even do with in-between waterings, in my opinion. She's aiming for the stars and shooting for the moon, getting bigger every day and stinking out my room. I had to tie my light higher up with some rope as it wouldn't go any higher, and shoots were getting way too close! I did SCROG when flipping, and I should've been a bit more strict on it (did it longer), but now I realize why SCROG is used. Imagine if I never used it—she would be way too tall. Overall, I'm so happy with how she is growing and can't wait to see the final product. :) But, as with any journey, we've hit a little bump in the road. Despite keeping our feeding consistent at 850ppm, the runoff readings have been creeping up. Last check-in showed a runoff of 1400ppm. It's got me thinking we might be dealing with a salt buildup in the root zone. To address this, I'm sticking with our feeding routine at 800-850ppm. If the runoff ppm keeps climbing or if our plants start showing signs of nutrient burn, I will adjust accordingly, but as of right now, I'm sticking to the same feed as she looks great! ( If I do begin to notice signs of nutrient burn (excess), I will try to water with a lower EC/PPM, like 700ppms, to bring it down. But if I don't get the results I'm hoping for, I will just flush the plant with 3x the media size of water (just plain pH water) to wash out any old salts and reset the medium. You don't really want to do this with coco depending on what stage your at in flower, veg on the other hand flush.? Sure!, if you really need to reset that medium go for it, (i do see tiny signs of burn but thats fine if it gets worse then i have a problem) Let's stay focused and keep our eyes on the prize—beautiful healthy buds. We've got this! #GrowUpdate #Week3 #BudsBlooming #KeepGrowing 🌱🌿

🌱 Week 3, Day 7 Update: Buds Are Blooming! 🌿 Hey Grow Fam, We're cruising through Week 3, and my girl is really coming on—buds are starting to form, and it's a sight to behold! The girl is growing so fast now, drinking 4.5L a day. She could even do with in-between waterings, in my opinion. She's aiming for the stars and shooting for the moon, getting bigger every day and stinking out my room. I had to tie my light higher up with some rope as it wouldn't go any higher, and shoots were getting way too close! I did SCROG when flipping, and I should've been a bit more strict on it (did it longer), but now I realize why SCROG is used. Imagine if I never used it—she would be way too tall. Overall, I'm so happy with how she is growing and can't wait to see the final product. :) But, as with any journey, we've hit a little bump in the road. Despite keeping our feeding consistent at 850ppm, the runoff readings have been creeping up. Last check-in showed a runoff of 1400ppm. It's got me thinking we might be dealing with a salt buildup in the root zone. To address this, I'm sticking with our feeding routine at 800-850ppm. If the runoff ppm keeps climbing or if our plants start showing signs of nutrient burn, I will adjust accordingly, but as of right now, I'm sticking to the same feed as she looks great! ( If I do begin to notice signs of nutrient burn (excess), I will try to water with a lower EC/PPM, like 700ppms, to bring it down. But if I don't get the results I'm hoping for, I will just flush the plant with 3x the media size of water (just plain pH water) to wash out any old salts and reset the medium. You don't really want to do this with coco depending on what stage your at in flower, veg on the other hand flush.? Sure!, if you really need to reset that medium go for it, (i do see tiny signs of burn but thats fine if it gets worse then i have a problem) Let's stay focused and keep our eyes on the prize—beautiful healthy buds. We've got this! #GrowUpdate #Week3 #BudsBlooming #KeepGrowing 🌱🌿

It's time to taste it. Sweet scent with a distinctive identity. You guys have to try to touch her once, I hope so. :)💚🥦

It's time to taste it. Sweet scent with a distinctive identity. You guys have to try to touch her once, I hope so. :)💚🥦

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. The script to come. Removal of 660nm wavelength is the signal that triggers the plant to accelerate terpenes/flavinoids production in flowers, this is the mechanism the higher plant uses to attract potential pollination from further afield, survival of the species is no joke for the plant, it senses the sky around it has removed all the 660nm, the plant starts to focus on terpenes and flavinoids production if she has not been fertilized by this point she must attract pollination from a further afield. 3-day treatment, ZERO 660nm initiates accumulation, RH kept below 20% (harder than you think)(Dropping temps helps a lot). The plant can sense the humidity drought, the plant will close its stomata to prevent the release of moisture given the conditions. Two highly specialized cells, the guard cells that surround the stomatal pore, can integrate environmental and endogenous signals to control the stomatal aperture and thereby the gas exchange. The uptake of CO2 is associated with a loss of water by leaves. Control of the size of the stomatal aperture optimizes the efficiency of water use through dynamic changes in the turgor of the guard cells. The opening and closing of the stomata are regulated by the integration of environmental signals and endogenous hormonal stimuli. The various factors to which the guard cells respond translate into the complexity of the network of signaling pathways that control stomatal movements. The perception of abiotic stress (RH less than 20%) triggers the activation of signal transduction cascades that interact with or are activated by phytohormones. Among these, abscisic acid (ABA), is the best-known stress hormone released that forces closed the stomata. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Then the Formative Mind ([at-oned] with Reason), he who surrounds the spheres and spins them with his whorl, set turning his formations, and let them turn from a beginning boundless unto an endless end. For that, the circulation of these [spheres] begins where it doth end, as Mind doth will. But to the Mind-less ones, the wicked and depraved, the envious and covetous, and those who mured do and love impiety, I am far off, yielding my place to the Avenging Daimon, who sharpening the fire, tormenteth him and addeth fire to fire upon him, and rusheth upon him through his senses, thus rendering him readier for transgressions of the law, so that he meets with greater torment; nor doth he ever cease to have desire for appetites inordinate, insatiately striving in the dark. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence. Upon orgasm, man releases dopamine, "dope", self-explanatory. A woman releases oxytocin, an extremely strong bonding agent. But there is a catch, the more people you use it on, the less bonding will occur. Promiscuity was sold with "Feminism". For the first time in history, there are more women above the age of 30 with no children than there are below. I was randomly reading around and had a little chuckle to myself when i read this, “In women it is usually accompanied by muscle contractions in the uterus, vagina and rectum, and sometimes in other parts of the body. In addition, the little known female ejaculation may occur to a greater or lesser degree, which is nothing more than a transparent liquid composed of different substances such as prostate antigens, enzymes, glucose and fructose secreted by Skene’s glands." My first thought was "Wonder what the NPK ratio is on that" Maybe I'll start my own specialized fertilizer company. Just bottle up some squirt and call it "Fannies Fluid", PACKED FULL OF ENZYMES! HIGH IN CARBOHYDRATES! BOOST YOUR PLANTS WITH ANTIGENS! Maybe just set up a lemonade stand.

Harvested week 7 day 46 of flower. My 3rd time growing this strain & this was the best grow, even though she was only a foot tall, she was around 2 square feet in width & had big stacked dense colas all over her.

Stinky omg so fruity and delicious 😋 i cant wait for this beautiful sob to be done!! Ended up stressinf medusa #2 a little bit and got 2 more weeks of veg time!! Dont always believe what you read or hear kids!!!😂 shes finally bouncing back and buds are fattening up nicely

Harvested after 65 days of flowering.

Hi everyone Today day 23 and yesterday I snap branches and thigh is with tape but today I seen branches bend down but it hill I'm going to start use bloom on her I feed her this week with 1ml silica .5 calmag 4ml grow 2ml heaven 2ml activera .5 bloom .5 topmax Next week will go down grow and go up with bloom hope she grow big and bushy but will see Day 24 I flush each with 3L water due run off ppm was 1300 if you not check run off ppm autoflower will be late flowering and we don't want that I make this mistake on last grow orange sherbat yeah I didn't flush her and she preflowering for 4 weeks lol So after that I decided to give plain water once a week it safe some money too but I'm always greedy to give more nutrients

Harvest done, plant is drying. 116 days from seed: 51 days veg + 65 days flora

Last days. Harvest after 65 days of flowering.