The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Nothing new to report, plants are growing well. I'm giving the plants filtered water at ph 6.0. I don't know the PH of my soil or my run off etc. This is my first grow so I'm not too far into the weeds (pun intended) on the PPM and those particular factors.
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@Piorkeed
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Nineth week of flowering started. I've changed the water into the pots. I will continue with the same nutrients ratio (more bloom and micro, less grow). The fan is turned three hours on, one off. Inkbird parameters are unchanged (20° -3° H +2°C). Plants are healthy, bushy and tall. Light power @ 100%. Extractor @ 100%. D56: changed the water into the pots. Added 15 ml grow, 30ml micro and 40ml bloom. pH@6 EC 1.2
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@Ninjabuds
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The pound cake is trucking along I could not ask for anything better at this point. This 1st week of them being alive has been decent. They have been healthy and reaching for the light the whole time. I moved them under my spider farmer 100w light so they can start getting used to that light. The smaller 55w light inhave has a significant more blue light in its spectrum I like it alot for seedlings it's just when the plants get to thisbsize that other light doesn't have enough light bounce ming around the tent to get any side lighting. I'm thinking this being an auto I need it to brach out earlier than I normally make my plants branch out. Also I plant to transplant them sometime soon . I have not decided if I want to use my regular 2gal plastic pots or use some of my 4 gal fabric pots. I like fabric pots it's just they are alot harder to take the plants to the bathroom and run water theu the soil at different times thru flower. I don't think I will need to flush my plants nearly as often now that I have switched away from fox farm soil this grow. My grows before I was useing foxfarm happy frog and then mixing happy from with coco loco. That stuff worked decent just the happy frog has so much humlic acid my plants would always go into lockout soon as they started to flower.
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Welcome to the Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆. Today is day 48 since the time change to 12/12. Hi everything 🤗. I can't describe how good it smells this week . You have to try them yourself 👌. There is nothing wrong with this genetic 😎. The growth, the color, the smell and the buds, everything is perfect. I can't wait to try it for the first time 😃. This week she will be flushed, so that after the flush she still has 10 - 13 days to utilize the remaining energy. Until then, I wish you a lot of fun with the new update, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱🍀 You can buy this Strain and Nutrients at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0
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@Comfrey
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30.7. - 06.08. Die Blüten werden fetter und riechen sehr lecker. Bis auf Wasser gießen und ein bisschen Ackerschachtelhalm Tee füttern musste ich nicht viel machen.
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Welcome to my Dutch Passion Diaries Competition 2025 entry! For this competition, I’ve chosen the Indoor Feminized strain: Ice Cream Haze Media from Week 16 or Flower week 6-7 After Moving into the New Tent for the flower weeks. Stage. Here’s what I’m working with for the Final Tent after Moving for the Flower time : • 🌱 Tent: 220x150x150 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Dutch Passion • 💧 Humidity Range: 40 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 8W-10W • Strain Info: 20-25%THC, Sativa • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 0.5l • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 720W x 2 Dimmed to 400w Each at the Moment. Because of Heatwave ⭐ A huge thank you to Dutch Passion for allowing me to be a part of this amazing competition and for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! Curious to try these strains for yourself? You can check them out and support me at the same time through my personal link: https://dutch-passion.com/?a_aid=GGD I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!
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Girl is looking healthy and i transfered moss pellet when i saw root coming at bottom in 11L pot with Biobizz All-mix and about 5-10% coco with clay pebble drainage at bottom. Used mychorizza too in transplant hole to help roots growing at start. Pretty sunny days with little bit rain almost every day but little bit too cold this week. 13-15C at days and few night dropped 4C otherwise 8-10C. Day 1: Started counting veg at 24.5. Day 4: Transfered moss pellet in 11L pot.
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@RakonGrow
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Note : jegliches Zubehör wird in der GermniationsWoche aufgelistet . Day 29: + PPFD 550 * 20h = DLI 39.6 + Flaschenwasser mit Canna-Boost 1.5Liter Die war komplett Trocken ... kaum zu glauben lol Day 30: Sie alles recht normal aus . Es entfaltet sich noch . Day 31: + Flaschenwasse 2L EC 0.26 PH 7.3 + + mit Dünger EC 0.7 PH 5.7 + Drain 0.25L mit EC 0.9 PH 6.8 Fazit : ich übe noch mit dem Dünger und dem "zuviel" an Urgesteinsmehl :)) Day 32: Das Wetter ist eine Katastrophe . Draussen ist es 21°C mit 90%rH . Hier drinnen sind es im Zelt 26°C und 67%. Im GrowRoom ,also praktisch meine 1 Zimmer Wohnung mit 2x2m Niesche hat so 25.5°C und 60%rH. Luftentfeuchter läuft , sonst geht hier gar nichts, aber der produziert Abwärme . Will ich nun kalte Luft von draussen wirds hier mit 77%rH geantwortet aber die Temperaturen gehen runter :)) Lass ich es bleiben und entfeuchte , ich habe eine undichte Hütte was die Luftfeuchtigkeit betrifft , dann steigt die Wärme wieder . ES IST EIN TEUFELSKREIS :)) Aber wie gut das ich weiss das auch die ganzen CSC's und auch die Profis ihre liebe mühe haben die Temp und Luftfeuchtigkeit zu regeln . Und nein , ich werde mir keine Klimanalage einauen die beides regeln kann. Ich wollte nicht ewig viel Geld für das Gras ausgeben :)) Also liebe Brüder und Schwester des gepflegten Ganja komsumes und Produzenten , wir sitzen alle im selben Boot . Und jeder versucht der beste Kaptain zu werden :)) P.S. ich weiss, ein neues Bott wäre gut :) Aber dadurch ändert sich nicht das Meer :)) Day 33 : Das Spiderfarmer Zelt 70x70x140x200cm ist fertig und Einsatzbereit . Meine kleinen Zwerge ziehen um . Im großen Zelt läßt sich die Luftfeuchtigkeit und Temperatur besser regeln. Klingt komisch , ist es auch :)) Aber Ihr müsst auch nicht in denkbar schlechtester Bausubstanz leben und gärtnern :)) Day 34 : + Flaschenwasse 2L EC 0.26 PH 7.3 + + mit Dünger (Terra Vega 3.8ml/l , Rhizotonic 2.0ml/l , Boost 2.0ml/l , CannaZym 2.5ml/l ) = EC 0.7 PH 6.5 + + Final PH 6.1 Nach einigen Problemen mit der Abluft und der Umluft und die Luftfeuchtigkeit , versuchen die Zwerge sich jetzt im neuem Zelt zu aklimatisieren . Ich drück die Daumen . Day 35: Die Düngung war genau richtig . Meine Luftfeuchtigkeit geht auch . Temperaturen sind etwas hoch . Aber Sie entfaltet sich . Videos gibts heute Nacht. P.S. Da ich mal wieder zu schusselig bin eine Zeitschaltuhr und das Sanlight DIM System richtig zu nutzen , haben wir ein paar Lichtaussetzer gehabt , somit sind nicht an allen Tagen 20h Licht . In der nächsten Woche kommen 18h * PPFD 750 + 1h sonnenaufgang und + sonnenuntergang wird zu DLI 46.29 was etwas über das Limit von 45.00 geht . Schauen wir was passieren wird :))
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So finally topping time has arrived she’s been topped and so far doesn’t show signs of care just keep growing ,big difference from last week getting bigger day by day now
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I had a fun experience growing this strain. She started out strong and finished pretty strong! The buds are covered in THC and smells sweet. The only thing I would really do better next time is trying not to nutrient burn her as much as I did towards the end. I also experimented with harvest time and came to the conclusion that the it's best to harvest a few weeks after their recommended time if you want denser buds (in my opinion). I do wish the buds were a bit more dense but I'm not a pro grower and that could be the reason for that. It's all a learning experience. It could be the strain because I'm going a Gorilla Cookies (FastBuds) and those buds are huge and don't have as many leaves. Overall I'm blessed with the outcome and I'm going to enjoy the perfectly dried buds soon :D I hope you all enjoy the little videos and music! haha I've only grown one plant before this which resulted in less than an eighth of bud so I'm beyond happy to say the least lol Let me know if you have any questions regarding growing and for some possible tips! Happy growing Growmies!
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. 🌱 : 💧 : 3l day 36, 3l day 39 💡 : Dli: 40 mol/m²/d 🤔 :
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Week 5 19.01.2020 Day 36 plant is doing great and in a few days it’s going into the bloom box !! I did cut her down a bit and iam still training her with bending her down but she is still comming up very day !! She is literally exploding with new branches and I did some clearing in the middle to let some light in !! Nothing mayor tho
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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@Dunk_Junk
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She is marching toward harvest! Buds getting very sticky! I left the tape measure visible in the video for scale. Good? Helpful?
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PURPLE KUSH / KANNABIA SEEDS WEEK #8 OVERALL WEEK #7 VEG This week this lady is doing good she's fully recovered from transplant and growing strong she's been topped and has the bud clips for LST here's another great week of growing!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! Thank you KANNABIA!!! BUDTRAINER.COM / BUD CLIPS PURPLE KUSH / KANNABIA SEEDS
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Everything is looking great! No complaints.
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Day 63 Today marks day 63 of flowering and the plants are really showing their final form. The buds have packed on a lot of weight over the past week, and the colas are looking dense, swollen and sticky to the touch. The pistils have mostly changed color now, with a good portion curling in and turning orange and amber, which gives the flowers that mature, finished look. When I check the trichomes under the loupe I can see that the majority are cloudy, with just a few still clear and the first signs of amber starting to show. This is a good sign that the harvest window is opening soon, though I’ll probably let them go a few more days to really finish and develop that extra potency and flavor. The smell is very intense at this point. Every time I open the tent I’m hit with a strong wave of aroma that’s a mix of sweet, earthy and slightly fruity notes, depending on which plant I’m leaning into. It’s sticky enough now that just brushing against a bud leaves resin on my fingers. The leaves are starting to fade naturally as the plant finishes up, showing yellows and some purples, which also makes the buds stand out even more. I’ve stopped feeding nutrients and have been giving only plain, pH-balanced water to let the medium flush out. Runoff is looking clean and the plants seem to be using up the last of their stored energy. Temperatures and humidity are steady, and the airflow in the tent is keeping everything fresh with no signs of mold or rot, which is always something I watch carefully this late in flower. Overall the garden looks amazing and I feel like I’m right on track for harvest. The next week will be about patience and daily trichome checks until I see the balance of cloudy and amber that I’m aiming for. It feels like the long wait is finally paying off, and the excitement is building to finally chop, dry, and cure these beautiful buds
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@Hawkbo
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Everything is movin along some will be coming down this week a few need a little longer. I'll get some pics up a little later today These are in the middle of the flush. I started it early but they're close enough. They smell great one smells like sweet tarts.  
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@Oimjr
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Still going...sigh... 3/18 ; did a water change and man is ut getting awkward getting her out of the tent to do water changes. I might drill and put a valve on the very bottom of the bucket next grow to make water changes a little easier in the future. 4 gallons of well water with 4 tsp of maxi grow and 1 tsp of Kool bloom. I added 1 tbl of calmag for the hell of it. The older leaves are looking a little stressed. The buds seem to be swelling to me, but strange enough, seems like the smell is decreasing. But what there is, is very fruity.ph to 6.1