Left tent is a week ahead. Fair amount of stretching this week. This time I’m paying close attention to keep flower sites high up. My experiment with bottom lighting did not went so great. I had a record yield but the quality was really bad in about 30-35% of flowers. Weak density. I’m definitely going to try again from the beginning but not this time. I have to pay attention to not let any plant get to big of a dryback in veg. It really influences the later stretching and make the plant too compact in sensitive cultivars.

Day 49 - I used the Fox Farms trio of nutes last week and the results are fantastic. The plants look healthy for the first time. Day 52 - Another watering with the Fox Farms trio. Buds are fattening nicely.

The the buds were small so it made trimming a nightmare! But it’s done and the end product is worth all the time. I have loads of trim and small popcorn buds that will be dry Ice sifted and pressed into a hash brick. Will update the diary when I have some bcp hash Weighed up the trim at 588 grams, used my trim bins with dry ice to sift the trim and pressed it into blocks using a rosin pre press, I’ll now jar this and put it to one side. My first time doing this, definitely worth the effort!

Big textwall incoming homies: Here Im doin some shit i knew from owning low to middle branded smd grow panels* how is that usually they come with both uv , ir, far red even newer quantum boards supplements itself with diverse chips extending their photosynthetic spectrum or making specific accesory bars / modules yet my purporse is rather focus on UV as this 15w bar (advertised as nominal 9 x 3w powered led) with UV-A 390-400nm spectrum – something that trigger some reaction to the plants with some other color son the flowering phase and trying to establish functional a ratio , as a bit of blue green and yellow have specific purposes instead of providing absurd quantities of red light , as there is some lateral cold bulbs in smaller but necessary ratios (as blue spectrum is still required on flowering , yet the original purpose was to complement mid to low branch development) in this shitty set up bonding with the upper bulbs and their colour temperature schema, every light has it's own schedule as how i suppose is a morning to night as something that cause plant resistance response (kinda noticed something i need to stimulate as i see a bit of fox-tailing but now with the uv-a i propose to build resistance and activate defense mechanisms like resin and of course, plant morphology according to its stage making bulkier , tankier , according to outdoor’s atmosphere i want to replicate as optimal weather as well – i hope this hardship make them more resilient and increase their health points as here i’s a HOT GIRL SUMMER- even indoors it rises my base temperature makes smell notorious, but as is not the usual weed smell make it and advantage in terms of discretion Killer Kush presents slight sweet tones not very prominent, the only herbal smell can be associated to pine undermining the refined coffee-like smell that is the dominant note (this selection of kush lack of lemon notes up to this point i can say it’s earthy with a bit of sour & sweetness) . Alas, as their late flowering phase and feeding schema should make chunky girls ,but the hot girl summer can become really a issue here, days and heat is something to be deal and prevent more light and food that they can chew , and this timing make me not over-do this niggas with excess of light, heat, disbalanced spectrum or extractions. So automatizing it with some timers ( a very good hint to repurpose old shit in your house!) im doing a Schedule that turn off some lights through the course of the day switching the intensity and the spectrum itself , making a sweet morning to afternoon look alike , , making that timer looks really like a basement like a nice dream to my plants, not exposing them to very disfavourable conditions and yet controlling my electric bill peaking , by the same reason , ventilation is also measured as im relying just on ventilators to distribute and disperse heat and also doing the role of intraction / extractors, there are 9 usb fans in various levels of this weed maze <3 . It's noticeable the quick evolution of these plants as there is no other factors to be aware except heat management as plants seem with not negative traces except some burnt leaf from previous weeks so i expect that they should be ready at the end of the month by my a personal mania of ripping shit all at once in order all to have that space at disposition for new projets , i will report stability eventually as they seemed quite rare enough when before putting to flower all, there was one already flowering AND THAT WAS FUCK THIS SHIT AND BECAUSE ITS NO CHEAP BULK TO EXPECT THIS SHIT!** ), and that shit become tears in the rain as that put me in some shit i can’t control or overcome, and just deal with in this strange lst bondage metal succubus nightmare that will be a nightmare to unmount too. Yet, i want the best conditions for her as all plants except her are ok so now the lateral bulbs also switched to give her more light (there is one on the left, right and on the back side, but i think better results with a neutral colour and using t5 led tubes with a water resistant case in each corner of the tent if i try to re do lateral lights ! ) *I still own the panels, in a next future, but not in this run i can use them as i think how i can supplement them and make them a team player as beyonding spectrum shaman shit i know now , and thankful to the chinese kids that made these fucking cheap as hell blessed bulbs,as they made me allow quickly adapt the spectrum on the main setup is 3000-4000k at the same ratio, with the addition of a cold light of 6500k on the idea of middle branching development too , and a small pint of unholy uv doing early 2000s cyberpunk shit with old trash janitor with compulsive hoarding stuff with some big gas leaks attitude niggas . **I do second runs of plants in order reach a better result through practice - but is noticeable the lack of stability on these bastards as i was very happy with previous strains i can say this strain is a big no! , unlike their famous ones, like black Jack or sweet cheese , the former ones fast version are way more stable and they didn’t presented me autoflowering phenos in the batch … i don’t hate autos, but i hate to mix them with feminized on the same run, its like having a hermaphrodite indoors for me. 😫😫😫

01/15 day 8 of flower start of week 2 did a little super dropping to some tops on 2 and 3 raised light to ceiling and moved fan. Will do defoliation once bottom probe number drops to 60 or lower 01/17 major defoliation today also supplemental watering with all the goodies and dialed back light a bit and dialed in environment also did light flower top dress

0.6g/L

Woche 5 - Vorletzte Woche der Vegetation und beeindruckende Entwicklung Die fünfte Woche markierte die vorletzte Vegetationswoche, und die Pflanzen zeigten weiterhin bemerkenswertes Wachstum und Gesundheit. Die Nährstoffe und das Gießschema blieben unverändert, wobei der EC- und pH-Wert sowohl im Drain als auch in der Nährlösung stabil auf optimalem Niveau waren. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit wurde leicht auf 60 % gesenkt, während die Temperatur weiterhin im Bereich von etwa 22 bis 26 Grad blieb. Die Pflanzen setzten ihr Wachstum in beeindruckendem Tempo fort und entwickelten enorme Seitentriebe. SPOILER !!!: Ohne jegliches zusätzliches Training bildeten sich am Ende der Woche 16 bis 18 Hauptnebenbuds sowie jeweils ein zentraler, kräftiger Headbud. Die Genetik dieser Pflanzen erwies sich als absolut außergewöhnlich. ENGLISH Week 5 - Final Week of Vegetation and Remarkable Development The fifth week marked the penultimate week of vegetation, and the plants continued to show remarkable growth and health. The nutrient and watering schedules remained unchanged, with EC and pH levels stable at optimal values, both in the nutrient solution and the drain. Humidity was slightly reduced to 60%, while temperatures stayed in the range of 22 to 26 degrees Celsius. The plants kept growing at an impressive rate and developed enormous side branches. Without any additional training, by the end of the week, they formed 16 to 18 main side buds along with a strong central head bud. The genetics of these plants proved to be absolutely outstanding.

Day 37 06/08/24 Tuesday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 today with calmag only. Pre flower stretch initiated, pre flower female sex pistils forming 😍 All happy and healthy! Structure of Melonade Runtz and Critical orange is Beautiful. Pic and vid update Day 39 08/08/24 Thursday Feed today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with Plagron PK13-14. Showing her pre stretch 😍 Day 41 10/08/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 today again with calmag. 400ml with run off now. Day 42 11/08/24 Sunday End of week De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 today again with calmag. 400ml with little run off this time Pistils on pistils now 😁 Starting to see the beginning of bud formations 💚

Esquejes fuets del propagador. De momento 15/15 enraizados . Esperamos ver evolución!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

🗓️ Week 12 – Flower Week 8 (MAC n Cheese only) Stage: Late Flower MAC n Cheese is now fully into late bloom and continues to impress: 🌿 Development: • Buds are dense, frosty, and maturing evenly across the canopy • No significant leaf discoloration • Aroma profile is becoming increasingly intense – leaning towards creamy and earthy notes 💧 Feeding & EC: • Input EC: 1.65–2.0 • pH: 6.3 • Current runoff EC: 2.3 → Still well-balanced, no visible signs of overfeeding despite the elevated drain values Flush status: No flushing yet – plants are still feeding actively → Final flush with Flawless Finish planned in ~1 week ✅ Summary: MAC n Cheese remains healthy and consistent. Structure is solid, frost levels are high, and everything looks on track for the final push. Late-stage nutrient uptake is still strong without stress indicators – ideal conditions heading into the home stretch.

Week 6 update: What up Grow family. These testers are growing fast and strong. Where in week 6 now and the swelling and ripening of flowers are going amazing. Still feeding 500ml/16oz daily as I've found that's the sweet spot for 3gal fabric pots for these. I'd say these probably have about 2 weeks left until they'll be finished. All in all Happy Growing.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme.

90x60x140 (Mars Hydro) FC-E4800 (Mars Hydro) Easy2go Aquavalve5 (Autopot) Living Soil (Demetearth) Bruce Banner (PEV Seed) Gorilla GG4 (Ganja Farmer) Cream Caramel (Sweet Seed) Gorilla Gelato (Ganja Farmer) Blueberry (00 Seed) Kalini Asia (Zamnezia) Banana Frosting (Sensi Seed) Biscotti Mintz (Barney's Farm) Blackberry Cake (Sensi Seed) Amsterdam Amnesia (Dutch Passion) Gelato Cookie (Ganja Farmer) Purple OG Punch (Ganja Farmer) Sweet ZZ (RQS) Rainbow Road (Paradise Seed) Substrat ~50L: 30L Super Light Mix Biotechnologie 18L coco 2L perlite 1,7kg lombricompost 350g guano de chauve-souris 350g Zéolithe 350g Basalte 170g guano vers de farine 170g biochar 0,7g Endomychorise glomus intraradices 0,7g Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens Paillage de luzerne alfalfa Arrosage avec 2ml/L de mélasse de canne 1x par semaine

Hey now, hope everyone is having a great weekend and staying safe. Another great week for the ladies, as they are now almost halfway through flowering which is 4 weeks into flower, and the stretch has just finished. I am still feeding them silica, cal mag, and flower nutrients maxi bloom by GHE. I did start to add a PK booster last week pushing the EC up to 1.4. I also switched the Medic Grow light from V1 to the F1 Spectrum at the beginning of last week, and will be integrating the UV/IR bar into the light cycle later this week. I will run the UV/IR bar for approximately 30 minutes prior to lights off to get started. The tallest plants are the Sundae Driver and the Durban Nights at 44" and the Red Hot Cookies is the shortest plant at 40" however they all look happy and healthy and capable of easily giving up a half pound each. The 5X5 tent is starting to really fill up and they are just now starting to smell. I was out of town all weekend so I was unable to make a time lapse video but I will update next week. I did defoliate twice this week and I may do one or two more rounds before just letting them do their thing. Not much to do from here on out except make sure the reservoir is full and the PH is in the proper range. I hope everyone has a great weekend, Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

This week I transplanted the Pound Cake Auto's into their final pots in their final tents. Then placed Root Organics Formula 707 Soil (1.5gal) 50% and Root Organics Original Formula Soil 50% (1 gal) into the pot up to just about the codlydone leaves. Then I fertilized with Real Growers Soil Recharge at a rate of 0.5tsp per gal. Next I fertilized with General Hydroponics MaxiGrow at a rate of .5 tsp per gal. Then I used Dr. Earth's Bone Meal, Blood Meal, Earthworm Castings, HomeGrown 4-6-3, and All Purpose 2-2-2. Lastly I fertilized with GrowersHouse The Stash Blend at a rate of .5 tsp per gal. Then I placed coffee grounds and egg shells as a top dressing around the root zone and then watered them with h20 that was 68°, and a pH of 7.0 due to soil being the medium. The daily fertilized solution that I watered with was 68°, 6.2ph, ppm of 720, and EC of 1440. Overall their doing great and their heavy humidity desiring plants!

So far so good they are starting to fill out the 1/2 and 1 gallon velcro transplant bags with roots very nicely. I still havent fed them any grow nutrients just some mammoth mycos,hardy gro ultra-bio and a liquid soil inoculant i got from ebay. I will them some NPK raw grow and cal/mag next week.

21.11 Middle of the last week i start to saw that plants are giving sings on soon harvest(pistons darker color, curled in bud, trichomes (big transparent-cloudy, middle cloudy-amber , small also transparent-cloudy) From yestrday they are in rest and dark mode Didnt do water flushing becuse i am using bio nutrients, last watering 18.11 Environment in tent is solid now without light,lower temperature( 0-5°) and more humidity(50-55%) ,so thats good I will wake them up soon, but need to wake up myself in morning also😴 Gn 🥦🍀💚💆‍♂️ 23.11 After 71 day of which two days in darknes , looking for 40-45% humidity and solid temp 20-25 i did cutting part and take them in more darknes, for drying 😁🤤 24.11 Situation in tent is how i want, becuse of the smell in room is colder then it should be so humiditiy is bit lower ( now 47-51%) but temp is also low ,i hope that will do solid exchange with not drying to fast becuse of lower temp, they look more frosty after few days in dark, smell is better and more aromatic, but i guess when you grow in tent, it could not be intense smell like outside, on constant fresh air,condtitions in real time, but its good, checking every day situation with buds, 24/7 good good air flow in all directions , ifan and carbon filter also doing solid good job with killing smell thats going down the pipe outside. Whole run was very good and i didnt have much problems or questionable situation, setup from mars hydro did well and equipment didnt make any problems in work, nice amount of watts for 3 plants, good size of tent to work normaly, from 1 place reach everything you want, and yea biobizz soil and nutriens also show up quality and results, with good dosing of nutrients and accurate ph level, resault was there. I also see flaws and thing that i could do better, but in total i am proud on me for doing my first grow, think that this change perspective about lighting buds and enjoying them. Wish then good and slow drying in best condtion possible🙏🏻🙏🏻💚🥦🍀 https://youtu.be/ghGiv7YLC7Q?si=gn-fFhvyURz24xdw ❄️🌤️ 🍋🌲🍓

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2307 Well growmies we are at 28 days in and everything is going great 👌 except for the fact I burnt the sit out of her 😅 I've since fixed the issue 😅 👉 Started to do some light low stress training and its looking good👌Let the stretch begin 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈